incredible...
While I have gravitated towards the tiny full rangers for my own personal pleasure, I do have to admit a certain guilty pleasure with the occational (safe) loud listening session. I don't listen long, and I don't make myself uncomfortable, but darnit, if 105-110db for a few songs isn't just darned fun sometimes!
I am imagining this is the realm within which punker will impress his friends.
I feel that this will be the realm within which these speakers will first start to strech their legs and really start to fly. they are the kind of speakers which will beg you to push them. think of it like an early 1990s dodge viper. No amenities. very heavy. lots of power. they just aint comfortable unless it is pushed. you will tap the gas pedal (volume) and they will scream.
however, I have a feeling that well tuned, they will be capable of very delicate dynamics indeed, kinda like the super 12 is reputed.
incredible? impressive is a better word perhaps.
buy the birch at 43 bucks a sheet. save up for the tweet. build a good "foundation" and the rest of the building will be more rewarding to construct, last longer, sound better, etc. its easy to cut a hole later on. they will probably sort of go high enough for you at first anyways. think of AM radio. that is about where your treble will cut off. there is enough treble to make most every instrument intelligible. just not the sparkle to give it realism...
corse, that is on axis. big full rangers have weird dispersion patterns and usually poor off axis response when used alone.
thinking more about the crossover, the corner placement (and resulting constant off axis listening position) I think would necessitate a lower crossover point for the tweeter to bring about relatively even dispersion... you won't know till you try though. buy a bunch of electrolytics in the various values and keep trying (clip leads help) till you find the right treble amount.
phase alignment....hmmmmm.... it is important with super tweeters after all. in my 206es-r horns, among other things I have super tweeted, I notice imcrimentally small changes in position of the tweeter (front to back) as far as phase goes. forward tends to brighten things, back tends to suppress things.
a slot horn with a driver position that is further back with relation to the baffle (than the ft17h) might be the solution. approximately just forward of the dust cap perhaps? just make sure that it sounds good though. I was listening to this small system in a friend's cabin for a while a few weeks ago. it is similar to this large system, except that is was an 8 inch, sealed cab. to my ear, the horn was coming in at 5k. It sounded great!
many a great PA/stereo is ruined by bad tweeters. in the PA system in the picture, I use the T-90A, paper-oil .5mfd cap. the 206 e has pretty good treble alone though.
for my own mobile PA work, I would not hesitate to use these big BIBs though, at least at this stage in my life. for alot of places, they would be simply perfect (small to medium room, with a decent ceiling, like most bars and small clubs and large living rooms in homes). remember, I go to college... I have the muscle and enough friends with muscle to make moving relatively simple. there is always a friend around with a truck. I also used to move furniture (with a company) and work in a warehouse lifting heavy objects all day. strategic casters and nice handles would make it a breeze (relatively). Bigger is better, after all....
While I have gravitated towards the tiny full rangers for my own personal pleasure, I do have to admit a certain guilty pleasure with the occational (safe) loud listening session. I don't listen long, and I don't make myself uncomfortable, but darnit, if 105-110db for a few songs isn't just darned fun sometimes!
I am imagining this is the realm within which punker will impress his friends.
I feel that this will be the realm within which these speakers will first start to strech their legs and really start to fly. they are the kind of speakers which will beg you to push them. think of it like an early 1990s dodge viper. No amenities. very heavy. lots of power. they just aint comfortable unless it is pushed. you will tap the gas pedal (volume) and they will scream.
however, I have a feeling that well tuned, they will be capable of very delicate dynamics indeed, kinda like the super 12 is reputed.
incredible? impressive is a better word perhaps.
buy the birch at 43 bucks a sheet. save up for the tweet. build a good "foundation" and the rest of the building will be more rewarding to construct, last longer, sound better, etc. its easy to cut a hole later on. they will probably sort of go high enough for you at first anyways. think of AM radio. that is about where your treble will cut off. there is enough treble to make most every instrument intelligible. just not the sparkle to give it realism...
corse, that is on axis. big full rangers have weird dispersion patterns and usually poor off axis response when used alone.
thinking more about the crossover, the corner placement (and resulting constant off axis listening position) I think would necessitate a lower crossover point for the tweeter to bring about relatively even dispersion... you won't know till you try though. buy a bunch of electrolytics in the various values and keep trying (clip leads help) till you find the right treble amount.
phase alignment....hmmmmm.... it is important with super tweeters after all. in my 206es-r horns, among other things I have super tweeted, I notice imcrimentally small changes in position of the tweeter (front to back) as far as phase goes. forward tends to brighten things, back tends to suppress things.
a slot horn with a driver position that is further back with relation to the baffle (than the ft17h) might be the solution. approximately just forward of the dust cap perhaps? just make sure that it sounds good though. I was listening to this small system in a friend's cabin for a while a few weeks ago. it is similar to this large system, except that is was an 8 inch, sealed cab. to my ear, the horn was coming in at 5k. It sounded great!
many a great PA/stereo is ruined by bad tweeters. in the PA system in the picture, I use the T-90A, paper-oil .5mfd cap. the 206 e has pretty good treble alone though.
for my own mobile PA work, I would not hesitate to use these big BIBs though, at least at this stage in my life. for alot of places, they would be simply perfect (small to medium room, with a decent ceiling, like most bars and small clubs and large living rooms in homes). remember, I go to college... I have the muscle and enough friends with muscle to make moving relatively simple. there is always a friend around with a truck. I also used to move furniture (with a company) and work in a warehouse lifting heavy objects all day. strategic casters and nice handles would make it a breeze (relatively). Bigger is better, after all....
Attachments
small system picture.
if he does not build these things, then mine will be done in a few months. I still feel that this is one of the coolest ideas to come across this forum in a long time.
with this system, an honest 120db will be reached without a sweat on a 150 watt per channel amp. single drivers pose a relatively easy load for amps when they are called to give it all they got. that is very important here, as mr. punk is trying to preserve his cash from all aspects of this project. I dran a beautiful 115db with less amplification on the PA system I have (which is of a similar style (being full range run)). averaged over 1 minute, fatboy slim everyone needs a 303, 9 feet away. so why make the same SPL of noise for the sake of noise? just to have a othodox-style-speaker-chump-impressing-lots-of-big-looking-drivers-matter-more-than-music-stereo-system? I know I will sound naive here, but who is truely, emotionally, cosmically impressed by noise? especially of the ear splitting type. hearing loss increases at higher SPLs, and it seems with more unpleasant sounds, from certain studies. I could post references or you could google it. that bad SQ hurts the ears more temporarily and PERMANENTLY than relatively undistorted sound.
we must assume a higher level of appreciation here, and an interest in self preservation. to do any different would be insulting mr. punk, his musical sensitivities, his friends, and that just does not rest well on my soul.
Clark
if he does not build these things, then mine will be done in a few months. I still feel that this is one of the coolest ideas to come across this forum in a long time.
with this system, an honest 120db will be reached without a sweat on a 150 watt per channel amp. single drivers pose a relatively easy load for amps when they are called to give it all they got. that is very important here, as mr. punk is trying to preserve his cash from all aspects of this project. I dran a beautiful 115db with less amplification on the PA system I have (which is of a similar style (being full range run)). averaged over 1 minute, fatboy slim everyone needs a 303, 9 feet away. so why make the same SPL of noise for the sake of noise? just to have a othodox-style-speaker-chump-impressing-lots-of-big-looking-drivers-matter-more-than-music-stereo-system? I know I will sound naive here, but who is truely, emotionally, cosmically impressed by noise? especially of the ear splitting type. hearing loss increases at higher SPLs, and it seems with more unpleasant sounds, from certain studies. I could post references or you could google it. that bad SQ hurts the ears more temporarily and PERMANENTLY than relatively undistorted sound.
we must assume a higher level of appreciation here, and an interest in self preservation. to do any different would be insulting mr. punk, his musical sensitivities, his friends, and that just does not rest well on my soul.
Clark
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I am curious about a few "variations"...if even valid:
1) Is there any advantage to 'smoothing' the bottom turn of the horn...easy as shown by "A" or fancier with formed curve "B"
2) Any advantage (disaster?) to adding curved 'mouth' at top of horn "C"
3) Pending 2 above....what IF someone could/wanted to build this into a wall....say, a basement media room where the back wall adjoins a store room....allowing the front baffle to essentially be flush with the wall....the top curve would project back into room (????)....the front baffle could also be made removable to change out drivers, play with stuffing, etc
...just noodling here...
1) Is there any advantage to 'smoothing' the bottom turn of the horn...easy as shown by "A" or fancier with formed curve "B"
2) Any advantage (disaster?) to adding curved 'mouth' at top of horn "C"
3) Pending 2 above....what IF someone could/wanted to build this into a wall....say, a basement media room where the back wall adjoins a store room....allowing the front baffle to essentially be flush with the wall....the top curve would project back into room (????)....the front baffle could also be made removable to change out drivers, play with stuffing, etc
...just noodling here...
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Moderator Note:
I moved various of my and Tech knockout's recent posts to the "How should I wire my 1500 watt speakers" thread.
I feel that I was getting off topic with Mr. Knockout. This thread is only about the BBBIB speaker design and construction. any posts from about construction and design of the speaker go here. Discussions of the best speakers for Punkrockr go there...
In the other thread it has been proven that the topic of "which speakers should Punkrockr make" can go on for hundreds of pages. I want to keep this thread as clean as possible so people like blumenco an panomaniac will also be tempted to build the BBBIB. Sorry I got off topic..
Variac
I moved various of my and Tech knockout's recent posts to the "How should I wire my 1500 watt speakers" thread.
I feel that I was getting off topic with Mr. Knockout. This thread is only about the BBBIB speaker design and construction. any posts from about construction and design of the speaker go here. Discussions of the best speakers for Punkrockr go there...
In the other thread it has been proven that the topic of "which speakers should Punkrockr make" can go on for hundreds of pages. I want to keep this thread as clean as possible so people like blumenco an panomaniac will also be tempted to build the BBBIB. Sorry I got off topic..
Variac
EdC said:
Interesting thoughts, we will have to see what Scottmoose says, he's the current BIB Guru.
From what I've read it seems the smooth corners at the bottom are not wanted, because they will help the highs find their way out of the horn mouth, and you don't want that. The rough curve and stuffing at the bottom kill the stuff you don't want, while the lower frequencies don't care, they just slide on by.
The same might be said for your top curve. You don't want any mids or highs from the horn coming at you. And the curve might prevent the horn mouth from coupling to the room properly.
It seems that the BIB works well because the lows from the horn couple to the walls and ceiling, but the mids and highs get lost. So you get them straight from the cone, while the horn augments only the bass.
Of course I may be all wrong! We need to hear what Scott has to say.
Hey Blumenco,
Those are some cool looking scoops! What are the drivers?
Thanks for your thoughts on this box. As Variac says, it's hard to design a crossover thru the mail, even a simple one like this.
I'm trying to design the x-over in the FRD "Passive Crossover Designer" spreadsheet. I have never built a crossover form scratch using this worksheet, but when I plug the x-overs I have, and also any changes I make into the worksheet the results seem to tally well with what I hear. So I trust it.
The problem I see is with driver alignment. If the 12" and the tweeter are out of physical alignment, a sharp dip appears in the HF, depending on the offset. If the offset is really big, then it gets very nasty. Problem is, I don't know what the true offset is, plus what the phase of the drivers is thru the x-over range. The phase plot is supplied for the tweeter, but I don't know (yet) how to implement it in the crossover designer.
I could upload the files here, if any one else wants to have a stab at it. Sure would love to have some help!
Those are some cool looking scoops! What are the drivers?
Thanks for your thoughts on this box. As Variac says, it's hard to design a crossover thru the mail, even a simple one like this.
I'm trying to design the x-over in the FRD "Passive Crossover Designer" spreadsheet. I have never built a crossover form scratch using this worksheet, but when I plug the x-overs I have, and also any changes I make into the worksheet the results seem to tally well with what I hear. So I trust it.
The problem I see is with driver alignment. If the 12" and the tweeter are out of physical alignment, a sharp dip appears in the HF, depending on the offset. If the offset is really big, then it gets very nasty. Problem is, I don't know what the true offset is, plus what the phase of the drivers is thru the x-over range. The phase plot is supplied for the tweeter, but I don't know (yet) how to implement it in the crossover designer.
I could upload the files here, if any one else wants to have a stab at it. Sure would love to have some help!
Below you will see a graph that shows the BBBIB on-axis response with a passive crossover.
This is my 1st stab at a crossover for this beast. All simulated, to be sure.
1st order low pass (1mH) and Zobel on the 12".
2nd order high pass and series resistor on the slot tweeter.
Tweeter polarity is normal, assuming that the woofer voice coil is 4cm deeper than the tweeter.
On the chart the area below 100Hz is grayed out, because the BIB tube will dominate there. The thin grey line above the response shows the 12 without notch filter, the black line is with notch. I don't know if there is enough difference to justify the 3 extra parts for the notch filter.
Comments?
This is my 1st stab at a crossover for this beast. All simulated, to be sure.
1st order low pass (1mH) and Zobel on the 12".
2nd order high pass and series resistor on the slot tweeter.
Tweeter polarity is normal, assuming that the woofer voice coil is 4cm deeper than the tweeter.
On the chart the area below 100Hz is grayed out, because the BIB tube will dominate there. The thin grey line above the response shows the 12 without notch filter, the black line is with notch. I don't know if there is enough difference to justify the 3 extra parts for the notch filter.
Comments?
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Well, astonshingly flat considering what you started with, so it is certainly one option.
My biggest concern would be the slot tweeter. I'm no expert, but I've always been told to cross them over pretty high to get the best sound- more like 5k... Also crossing them over as you do (3k?) is going to hurt the power handling also. I think that this 3k crossover would work very well with the 205 1" Selenium horn driver and a horn, but a supertweeter like a slot tweeter might be really problematic at high volume... I'm not advocating the 205, I'd still prefer a way to get the slot tweeter to work.
So, as an alternative you could try the "audiophile full range with supertweeter" approach with some variations due to the size of the driver. Maybe ignore the dip at 4k and (you knew this was coming! ) let it roll off naturally. up around 5,500hz
Also, does the box augment the sound at all over 100hz? If it did, maybe you wouldn't have to flatten the 12" upper response as much. The rising response give us more dB and if the box has any effect up to around 200-300hz that would boost the lower mid a bit more so you would end up with say 98 db at 200 and a wide 3 db dip out to 500 where the rising response would take over. I still think the rising response needs some correction , just maybe not as much.
Then the tweeter could be high passed to cross over around the 5500hz area to work with the woofer. MAybe second order still for power handling and better integration...Also maybe its OK if the tweeter rolls off a little more, that peak out around 15k seems pretty huge.
I don't know how possible some of these ideas are so I hope I'm not annoying you
These are just ideas and of course listening would sort out the dog ideas from the golden one pretty fast, but.....
These ideas would make the response more lumpy, but sometime other gains make up for lumpiness! ie more cohererent sound, no crossover where the majority of the sound is, more volume, less smoking tweeters...
My biggest concern would be the slot tweeter. I'm no expert, but I've always been told to cross them over pretty high to get the best sound- more like 5k... Also crossing them over as you do (3k?) is going to hurt the power handling also. I think that this 3k crossover would work very well with the 205 1" Selenium horn driver and a horn, but a supertweeter like a slot tweeter might be really problematic at high volume... I'm not advocating the 205, I'd still prefer a way to get the slot tweeter to work.
So, as an alternative you could try the "audiophile full range with supertweeter" approach with some variations due to the size of the driver. Maybe ignore the dip at 4k and (you knew this was coming!
) let it roll off naturally. up around 5,500hzAlso, does the box augment the sound at all over 100hz? If it did, maybe you wouldn't have to flatten the 12" upper response as much. The rising response give us more dB and if the box has any effect up to around 200-300hz that would boost the lower mid a bit more so you would end up with say 98 db at 200 and a wide 3 db dip out to 500 where the rising response would take over. I still think the rising response needs some correction , just maybe not as much.
Then the tweeter could be high passed to cross over around the 5500hz area to work with the woofer. MAybe second order still for power handling and better integration...Also maybe its OK if the tweeter rolls off a little more, that peak out around 15k seems pretty huge.
I don't know how possible some of these ideas are so I hope I'm not annoying you
These are just ideas and of course listening would sort out the dog ideas from the golden one pretty fast, but.....
These ideas would make the response more lumpy, but sometime other gains make up for lumpiness! ie more cohererent sound, no crossover where the majority of the sound is, more volume, less smoking tweeters...
The tweeter crossover is higher than it looks, in fact it's set at about 6K.
The drivers do end up summing at about 3.2K because the 12 rises while the tweeter droops. That is just how these drivers are made. They tilt in opposite directions.
The "trick" is to use a high crossover point for the tweeter that pulls the tweeter low end down to match the droopy top. I'll post a curve to show that later. There is actually a lot of attenuation at the low end of the tweeter curve. Enough, I hope, to make power handling no problem.
Letting the Beta-12 run bareback and filling in up high with the super tweeter is certainly an option, and may be the best sounding one. But it seems that most of the Beta 12 LTA versions (Hammer et. al) use some roll off at the top to tame the big cone. I will run the stock Hammer Dynamic x-over on this pair to see what it does. Not the same cone, but close. Tweeter very different.
You're right that we need to know how much the BIB horn is going to add to the mids. If it adds a lot, then we don't need to roll off so much. The crossover now has one a 1mH coil, so no big worries. The Zobel just helps keep the top down. The notch filter can go away, it may hurt more than it helps.
So we at least have a start!
The drivers do end up summing at about 3.2K because the 12 rises while the tweeter droops. That is just how these drivers are made. They tilt in opposite directions.
The "trick" is to use a high crossover point for the tweeter that pulls the tweeter low end down to match the droopy top. I'll post a curve to show that later. There is actually a lot of attenuation at the low end of the tweeter curve. Enough, I hope, to make power handling no problem.
Letting the Beta-12 run bareback and filling in up high with the super tweeter is certainly an option, and may be the best sounding one. But it seems that most of the Beta 12 LTA versions (Hammer et. al) use some roll off at the top to tame the big cone. I will run the stock Hammer Dynamic x-over on this pair to see what it does. Not the same cone, but close. Tweeter very different.
You're right that we need to know how much the BIB horn is going to add to the mids. If it adds a lot, then we don't need to roll off so much. The crossover now has one a 1mH coil, so no big worries. The Zobel just helps keep the top down. The notch filter can go away, it may hurt more than it helps.
So we at least have a start!
Absolutely we have a start! An excellent start!
My thought was to design two and only two crossovers. Well OK , with and without the notch option, that's four! Go after the problem with two different philosophies. Then have some of the three people planning to make these try both..especially if you are one of them!!
I see we agree that the big driver needs to be rolled off some, but not just because its big, but because wide range drivers tend to have a rising response. You clearly understand my premise (hope? ) that if the lower mid is augmented just a little bit by the horn then the response doesn't need as much rolling off maybe. A bit of recessed midrange might not be fatal.
It would also be interesting to overlay the horn curve over the curve you posted- I guess it will be about 3dB greater than the rest of the curve. I think Punkr might like that, but we might get into trouble with the upper bass being tubby. From the Martin King sheets its hard to tell where the horn effect stops. Can you or anyone determine this?
Anyway, I see what you mean by the tweeter not being crossed as low as thought, in fact, I had questions about that- I saw that the two cutoffs were different. There is still the issue of whether a tweeter like that should be crossed low at all.....either way, that 12" doesn't go as high as some smaller wider rangers so its going to stress the tweeter more. I guess another reason that people use a first order crossover on "helper tweeters" to add more dispersion lower, with larger drivers. In order to use first order high pass, the high pass needs to be no lower than about 10k it seems from the schemes I've seen..
Anyway I want to emphasize again that to get such a good looking crossover so soon is
My thought was to design two and only two crossovers. Well OK , with and without the notch option, that's four! Go after the problem with two different philosophies. Then have some of the three people planning to make these try both..especially if you are one of them!!
I see we agree that the big driver needs to be rolled off some, but not just because its big, but because wide range drivers tend to have a rising response. You clearly understand my premise (hope? ) that if the lower mid is augmented just a little bit by the horn then the response doesn't need as much rolling off maybe. A bit of recessed midrange might not be fatal.
It would also be interesting to overlay the horn curve over the curve you posted- I guess it will be about 3dB greater than the rest of the curve. I think Punkr might like that, but we might get into trouble with the upper bass being tubby. From the Martin King sheets its hard to tell where the horn effect stops. Can you or anyone determine this?
Anyway, I see what you mean by the tweeter not being crossed as low as thought, in fact, I had questions about that- I saw that the two cutoffs were different. There is still the issue of whether a tweeter like that should be crossed low at all.....either way, that 12" doesn't go as high as some smaller wider rangers so its going to stress the tweeter more. I guess another reason that people use a first order crossover on "helper tweeters" to add more dispersion lower, with larger drivers. In order to use first order high pass, the high pass needs to be no lower than about 10k it seems from the schemes I've seen..
Anyway I want to emphasize again that to get such a good looking crossover so soon is
Hi!
Build it and try a simple 6db X-over for choosen tweeter. I think there's no way to simulate the horn added mids coming from mouth. As I have said before, no expert just some experience building and listening to a BIB. Ping Scottmoose and ask of his opinion, maybe he can help more.
Hope it's coming together, love to hear it also.....
Could be good with 110 db of Beastie Boy's on it!
Build it and try a simple 6db X-over for choosen tweeter. I think there's no way to simulate the horn added mids coming from mouth. As I have said before, no expert just some experience building and listening to a BIB. Ping Scottmoose and ask of his opinion, maybe he can help more.
Hope it's coming together, love to hear it also.....
Could be good with 110 db of Beastie Boy's on it!
Variac said:
Yes, absolutely. Just don't know what the BIB is going to do thru the midband.
The crossover I posted is the "correct" one. At least it give a fairly good plot. Not too complicated, either, can be as simple as 5 or 6 components. But it may not be what sounds the best.
Below is a graph of the Selenium tweeter with, and without, filter. As you will see, the natural FR tilts down a good bit. The high pass filter tries to correct this so that it will sum flat with the Beta 12LTA.
In the next post is the filter curve.
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I was just saying that if it helped, the correction on tweeter doesn't have to be quite as extreme IF it helped you in further tweeking. I understand that there are only a limited number of slopes to use.
The crossover you showed does seem to work well, and is probably what Punkr should use.
Other options such as the first order single cap tweeter approach can be tried and compared to this by any other builders. One problem with crossing a tweeter lower than 10khz with a first order filter is that the excursion of the tweeter can end up as excessive as the filter doesn't roll it off fast enough, but maybe around 10k is enough..
The efficiency of the horn vs. the midrange efficiency of the 12" driver should give Punkr a pretty decent bass boost.
Mainly though, I'm no speaker expert so I hope others will comment.
The crossover you showed does seem to work well, and is probably what Punkr should use.
Other options such as the first order single cap tweeter approach can be tried and compared to this by any other builders. One problem with crossing a tweeter lower than 10khz with a first order filter is that the excursion of the tweeter can end up as excessive as the filter doesn't roll it off fast enough, but maybe around 10k is enough..
The efficiency of the horn vs. the midrange efficiency of the 12" driver should give Punkr a pretty decent bass boost.
Mainly though, I'm no speaker expert so I hope others will comment.
Hey everyone, my internets been of for a few days so I haven't been able to see what was goin on and it was interesting to see what has happened here.
I know these bbbib speakers I would never of even considered a month and a half ago. But seems as alot of people don't like my way or don't think my way of building speakers is that great so I decided that I'd build something that an Audiophile would build but put my own twist on it thus forth the BBBIB was born. lol
And my budget, I can afford the Birch and all but I'm trying to put money away slopwly but surely for the 18/12s which are slowly changing onto 21/12s
I know these bbbib speakers I would never of even considered a month and a half ago. But seems as alot of people don't like my way or don't think my way of building speakers is that great so I decided that I'd build something that an Audiophile would build but put my own twist on it thus forth the BBBIB was born. lol
And my budget, I can afford the Birch and all but I'm trying to put money away slopwly but surely for the 18/12s which are slowly changing onto 21/12s
Hey Punkr,
Here's a good solution for the wood I think. Yesterday I bought a piece of 7/16" OSB board at Home Depot. This is also called Flakeboard by some. It is made up of lots of thin random shavings of wood compressed so there are no voids. One side is a lot smoother than the other, so that should be towards the outside. Checking my receipt, it seems to cost $5.77 per sheet. It is used structurally a lot in houses, so it is quite strong.. Since it is basically a half inch thick, you would need to make the horn then add a second layer glued and screwed on all of the exterior, - That would take 10 sheets total , at the price I think I paid, it would still only be $60.
OK thats a lot of work.... So maybe find OSB in a thicker size The plans are for 3/4" and I'll bet you could find it that thick for around $10 a sheet - if it exists . That would be $50 for 2 speakers!!
Here's a good solution for the wood I think. Yesterday I bought a piece of 7/16" OSB board at Home Depot. This is also called Flakeboard by some. It is made up of lots of thin random shavings of wood compressed so there are no voids. One side is a lot smoother than the other, so that should be towards the outside. Checking my receipt, it seems to cost $5.77 per sheet. It is used structurally a lot in houses, so it is quite strong.. Since it is basically a half inch thick, you would need to make the horn then add a second layer glued and screwed on all of the exterior, - That would take 10 sheets total , at the price I think I paid, it would still only be $60.
OK thats a lot of work.... So maybe find OSB in a thicker size The plans are for 3/4" and I'll bet you could find it that thick for around $10 a sheet - if it exists
. That would be $50 for 2 speakers!!
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