HaLo6 said:MrMajestic can we see a rear shot of the panel, I am planning on sending my front & rear panel from hifi2000.net to them as well!
Sure, here you go. Its not complete though.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
mavallarino said:Let me understand; you purchased the container and sent the front and rear panels to have them cut? What was transport for this? It must have cost a lot!
BTW, it is very beautiful, my compliments.
I guess I will have to wait for the 32S only version (without IVY).
Nope, its made from scratch at Front Panel Express to my specifications. So its just shipping one way from them to me. You can send your own panels to them, but I haven't done that yet. If you want nice looking 10mm panels, then I would send the original Hifi2000 panels to hem from cutting.
Thanks for the compliment
MrMajestic,
Where have you purchased the power button?
I have used Shaeffer AG once. They are limited to 4mm.
Modus has nice 10mm panels, is Front Panel Express able to cut these? Modus does make cuts but only the very simple ones. It is unfortunate because it would be nice to have a single supplier (and a local one for me, even better).
Where have you purchased the power button?
I have used Shaeffer AG once. They are limited to 4mm.
Modus has nice 10mm panels, is Front Panel Express able to cut these? Modus does make cuts but only the very simple ones. It is unfortunate because it would be nice to have a single supplier (and a local one for me, even better).
mavallarino said:MrMajestic,
Where have you purchased the power button?
I have used Shaeffer AG once. They are limited to 4mm.
Modus has nice 10mm panels, is Front Panel Express able to cut these? Modus does make cuts but only the very simple ones. It is unfortunate because it would be nice to have a single supplier (and a local one for me, even better).
No, they can do up to 10mm, but the software is limited to 4mm. You can send the 10mm ones from Hifi2000 to them, but you will have to get a quote from them on the price an they will also check your files I think. But, Modushop will also do cutting and engraving on their own panels, but you would have to use CAD software for that.
I can verify that the sister company here in the U.S., Front Panel Express can cut through 10 mm thicknesses and is actually affordable. It is more expensive than cutting through 4 mm, as their drill press has to go through multiple 'passes' to get through 10 mm.
For most one offs, they are an excellent company. However, if you are in production or an OEM, then they can get expensive.
Great for DIY'ers like myself!
Anand.
For most one offs, they are an excellent company. However, if you are in production or an OEM, then they can get expensive.
Great for DIY'ers like myself!
Anand.
I agree they have a very reasonable value, but when you pay 10x as much for sending back in transport costs it becomes very, very expensive. You are paying transport costs 4x.
I am unable to find a CNC worker in my town (city). This would be much better for a one off hole.
I am unable to find a CNC worker in my town (city). This would be much better for a one off hole.
CounterPoint Construction
I began construction on my just received Counterpoint boards. There are LOTS of resistors, and you have to be careful. I got through the diodes just fine and then began to work on the resistors. Starting with resistor R1, I pawed through the bundles of parts. I picked up resistor RS1. That's when I noticed resistors come in Rx, RSx, and RGx designations. Ok, good thing I noticed. Well, I was doing fine, but after a while, as the resistor installation became routine, I caught a mistake I made. I put RS3 in where R23 goes. So be careful, check your work as you go, don't get in a hurry.
RossG
I began construction on my just received Counterpoint boards. There are LOTS of resistors, and you have to be careful. I got through the diodes just fine and then began to work on the resistors. Starting with resistor R1, I pawed through the bundles of parts. I picked up resistor RS1. That's when I noticed resistors come in Rx, RSx, and RGx designations. Ok, good thing I noticed. Well, I was doing fine, but after a while, as the resistor installation became routine, I caught a mistake I made. I put RS3 in where R23 goes. So be careful, check your work as you go, don't get in a hurry.
RossG
What's the advantage of 10mm over 4mm? Does it need to be able to withstand bomb blasts?
Even 4mm panels seem expensive to me, considering they presumably just stick the thing in a computer-controlled machine. I think I'll just buy a drill bit and use all Neutrik connectors.
Anyway, can't wait for the new, idiot-proof Buffalo 32 as I'm an idiot (when it comes to DIY electronics anyway).
Hopefully it won't be too much longer now.
Even 4mm panels seem expensive to me, considering they presumably just stick the thing in a computer-controlled machine. I think I'll just buy a drill bit and use all Neutrik connectors.
Anyway, can't wait for the new, idiot-proof Buffalo 32 as I'm an idiot (when it comes to DIY electronics anyway).
Hopefully it won't be too much longer now.
noob question - sorry
I'd like to buy and obviously play some of these recordings at 96khz/24bit.
http://www.linnrecords.com/linn-help-downloads-studio-master-quality-album-downloads.aspx#sampler
Buffalo will convert these files but what's the best way to get these digital files to the Buffalo?
Sorry Russ/Brian but another question if I may: I have a MUX going into Buffalo via I2S. What's the best configuration for the dip switches in the MUX, if all I'm doing is inputting CD via SPDIF?
cheers
Aidan
I'd like to buy and obviously play some of these recordings at 96khz/24bit.
http://www.linnrecords.com/linn-help-downloads-studio-master-quality-album-downloads.aspx#sampler
Buffalo will convert these files but what's the best way to get these digital files to the Buffalo?
Sorry Russ/Brian but another question if I may: I have a MUX going into Buffalo via I2S. What's the best configuration for the dip switches in the MUX, if all I'm doing is inputting CD via SPDIF?
cheers
Aidan
Re: noob question - sorry
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=451
The Mac Mini's work fine at higher bit rates into other DACs and other Macs work fine at 96/24 into the Buffalo. Here's hoping the new Buffalo32s will work with Mac Minis! (I've not tried the brand new mac Minis.) I do have a MUX, I just haven't tried it yet.
Good luck
I use a Mac and Optical out to TOSLINK direct to Buffalo - seems to work fine although both my Mac Mini's can only connect to the Buffalo at 48/24. They fail at 96/24 - crackles and pops. There is a quite a long thread on the TP site about this.chalkandtalk said:I'd like to buy and obviously play some of these recordings at 96khz/24bit.
... Buffalo will convert these files but what's the best way to get these digital files to the Buffalo?
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=451
The Mac Mini's work fine at higher bit rates into other DACs and other Macs work fine at 96/24 into the Buffalo. Here's hoping the new Buffalo32s will work with Mac Minis! (I've not tried the brand new mac Minis.) I do have a MUX, I just haven't tried it yet.
If you only have one input, why not route direct to the Buffalo? See manual on how to connect based on whether your input is at TTL level or not.chalkandtalk said:Sorry Russ/Brian but another question if I may: I have a MUX going into Buffalo via I2S. What's the best configuration for the dip switches in the MUX, if all I'm doing is inputting CD via SPDIF?
[/B]
Good luck
Re: CounterPoint Construction
Many RossG for the resistor heads up - this is just the sort of thing I would have missed ;-) I've been laying out the kit this morning - looks nice - although I'm not going to get a chance to build it until tomorrow. Let us know how you get on and your thoughts in comparison with the IVY.
You might also be interested in this thread on the TP site:
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=597
krgaunt said:I began construction on my just received Counterpoint boards. There are LOTS of resistors, and you have to be careful. I got through the diodes just fine and then began to work on the resistors. Starting with resistor R1, I pawed through the bundles of parts. I picked up resistor RS1. That's when I noticed resistors come in Rx, RSx, and RGx designations. Ok, good thing I noticed. Well, I was doing fine, but after a while, as the resistor installation became routine, I caught a mistake I made. I put RS3 in where R23 goes. So be careful, check your work as you go, don't get in a hurry.
RossG
Many RossG for the resistor heads up - this is just the sort of thing I would have missed ;-) I've been laying out the kit this morning - looks nice - although I'm not going to get a chance to build it until tomorrow. Let us know how you get on and your thoughts in comparison with the IVY.
You might also be interested in this thread on the TP site:
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=597
Would some of you fellas that are building the counterpoint post the pics as you go?
Also - the AVCC on the counterpoint - I just connect that to the 3.3V Vref output from the little circuit we added to provide 3.3V reference to the buffalo, right? - that way both counterpoint and buffalo both work off the one reference?
I mean this one:
post 1038
Fran
Also - the AVCC on the counterpoint - I just connect that to the 3.3V Vref output from the little circuit we added to provide 3.3V reference to the buffalo, right? - that way both counterpoint and buffalo both work off the one reference?
I mean this one:
post 1038
Fran
woodturner-fran said:Also - the AVCC on the counterpoint - I just connect that to the 3.3V Vref output from the little circuit we added to provide 3.3V reference to the buffalo, right? - that way both counterpoint and buffalo both work off the one reference?
I mean this one:
post 1038
Fran
That reference has a high output impedance, and that is fine since it is feeding an opamp. But for the AVCC input on the counterpoint you need a low impedance otherwise the voltage divider that gets you AVCC/2 will not work correctly.
The best place to get AVCC off the Buffalo is to solder a wire on the AVCC side of C11 and C12. That is how I do it.
Cheers!
Russ
woodturner-fran said:Haven't opened up my buffalo case but looking at the pic and schematic, that would be on the side of C11/C12 away from the ESS chip? ie at the T of "twisted pear" and the "Y" of DIY use only?
Fran
No!!, near the chip is +3.3V, far is 0V.
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