I went with ceiling speakers because they were going in my kitchen so I could stream music using AirPlay and an airport express. Overall, I'm happy with the results.
I'm not looking to make them thunder by any means. For my tastes, everything is just a little higher than I would like and would like a little more bass.
I can probably box them in if that's my best option. I'd rather avoid climbing in the rafters if there is an option in modding something with the amps.
I'm not looking to make them thunder by any means. For my tastes, everything is just a little higher than I would like and would like a little more bass.
I can probably box them in if that's my best option. I'd rather avoid climbing in the rafters if there is an option in modding something with the amps.
Aye there's your problem, ceiling speakers! they don't even pretend to have any bass, and they never can because they are designed to fire into a ceiling space, I mean even if you were to box them in, they're never going to thunder.
Why even ceiling speakers? you don't live in a supermarket?
I went with ceiling speakers because they were going in my kitchen so I could stream music using AirPlay and an airport express. Overall, I'm happy with the results.
I'm not looking to make them thunder by any means. For my tastes, everything is just a little higher than I would like and would like a little more bass.
I can probably box them in if that's my best option. I'd rather avoid climbing in the rafters if there is an option in modding something with the amps.
ok, well maybe you can improve things a bit by turning the tweeter attenuater to -3 or even -6dB.
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The speakers I choose are these 8in speakers which sounded great when i tested them with my home theater amp before cutting holes in the ceiling.
Have you tried another amp with these speakers?
I have in-ceiling speakers too (not the same as you), and they have no bass. I've mentioned this in other threads when the topic comes up, and no one has ever said in-ceiling speakers should have bass. So it comes with the territory. You'll almost certainly have to get a sub if you want real bass with in-ceiling speakers.
I asked if you've tried a different amp to see if it really is a problem with the amp itself, or if it's just a "feature" of in-ceiling speakers.
ok, well maybe you can improve things a bit by turning the tweeter attenuater to -3 or even -6dB.
Yup... digital EQ might be another avenue to explore.
Have anyone seen this amp!?, or even tried it!?.. It looks nice, and compact, if it sound decently its Perfect for a little proyect.
TPA3118 HIFI Digital High-power Subwoofer Amplifier Board 60W 30W * 2 Audio Amp Whit Separate 2.0 Output
TPA3118 HIFI Digital High power Subwoofer Amplifier Board 60W + 30W * 2 Audio Amp Whit Separate 2.0 Output-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
(from AliExpress Android)
TPA3118 HIFI Digital High-power Subwoofer Amplifier Board 60W 30W * 2 Audio Amp Whit Separate 2.0 Output
TPA3118 HIFI Digital High power Subwoofer Amplifier Board 60W + 30W * 2 Audio Amp Whit Separate 2.0 Output-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
(from AliExpress Android)
It doesn't seem widely available yet. I've only found it for sale on Ali.
There is a rating for it from some French guy from mid-October. No real review though.
I can think of a mod or two some might like to make. It looks like the boards are plastic welded to the frame though through plastic rivets.
I might want to check the heat sinking or provide a plug-in connection for the subwoofer cable rather then the daft screw terminals.
There is a rating for it from some French guy from mid-October. No real review though.
I can think of a mod or two some might like to make. It looks like the boards are plastic welded to the frame though through plastic rivets.
I might want to check the heat sinking or provide a plug-in connection for the subwoofer cable rather then the daft screw terminals.
so, I jumped on this, looks cool. $26 plus 14$ shipping.
Of course, once I did I immediately found it cheaper, $33 FREE US shipping.
HERE:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-1...id=88615c0c-0768-47d8-bace-382d66dbee21&tpp=1
Of course, once I did I immediately found it cheaper, $33 FREE US shipping.
HERE:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-1...id=88615c0c-0768-47d8-bace-382d66dbee21&tpp=1
I just tried searching for the model and manufacturer, no joy. Searching on the title texts of the two adverts seems the only way.
I keep finding old passive subwoofers in the trash and stuff. got 2-3 of them in basement.
this thing seems perfect for dropping in those and setting up a desktop nearfield 2.1 system.
we'll see when it arrives.
this thing seems perfect for dropping in those and setting up a desktop nearfield 2.1 system.
we'll see when it arrives.
I keep finding old passive subwoofers in the trash and stuff. got 2-3 of them in basement.
this thing seems perfect for dropping in those and setting up a desktop nearfield 2.1 system.
we'll see when it arrives.
So its seems you just ordered one!!!... LoL... Please report it when it arrives.... I was thinking in a 2.1 system for a friend for his birthday in April... so I will wait until you report about it if you dont mind!!!:.... but it looks quite good...
will do. of course, it will go in the pile of the sanwu monoblock 3118s, the LJM L15ds, and the unfinished boominator already on the project list!
gotta lot of stuff to work on this winter!
gotta lot of stuff to work on this winter!
I bought these no-name TPA3118 boards and need help on how to perform mods for:
1/ reducing the gain to 26 dB. Currently I think it's set for 36 dB and I get a fixed-loudness whining, high pitched noise on the tweeter, irrespective of volume level (volume control from Kuartlotron buffer).
2/ 330 pF + 10R mod. xrk had mentioned in an old post:
"330pF Np0 or C0G SMT cap and 10R SMT resistor. Connect to trace between bootstrap cap and inductor as close as possible to chip, or connect to solder pad on input end of inductor. Or use small 1/8w axial resistor and radial ceramic cap and dead bug solder to input end of inductor. It's tight but the bootstrap caps are exposed."
With respect to the close-up pic below, can someone who has the same board and had done this mod kindly let me know between which points/pins to connect the C + R? And which resistors to remove or change for a 26 dB gain? I'm hoping to tame the harshness in the sound.
Other pics:
The back is totally plain, sans any maker mark.
Wired up temporarily and powered by one laptop power brick (19.5V/4.7A) per board.
It's actually sounding very good, as is, except for the harshness. I'm planning to swap out the four electrolytic caps with something better and slightly larger value caps. These boards are BTL and power as per the seller is 60W (no mention of what load). It can certainly convincingly drive my 8 Ohm speakers to party-loud SPLs🙂
What other mods should one concentrate on to improve the sonics?
Thanks in advance
1/ reducing the gain to 26 dB. Currently I think it's set for 36 dB and I get a fixed-loudness whining, high pitched noise on the tweeter, irrespective of volume level (volume control from Kuartlotron buffer).
2/ 330 pF + 10R mod. xrk had mentioned in an old post:
"330pF Np0 or C0G SMT cap and 10R SMT resistor. Connect to trace between bootstrap cap and inductor as close as possible to chip, or connect to solder pad on input end of inductor. Or use small 1/8w axial resistor and radial ceramic cap and dead bug solder to input end of inductor. It's tight but the bootstrap caps are exposed."
With respect to the close-up pic below, can someone who has the same board and had done this mod kindly let me know between which points/pins to connect the C + R? And which resistors to remove or change for a 26 dB gain? I'm hoping to tame the harshness in the sound.

Other pics:
The back is totally plain, sans any maker mark.

Wired up temporarily and powered by one laptop power brick (19.5V/4.7A) per board.

It's actually sounding very good, as is, except for the harshness. I'm planning to swap out the four electrolytic caps with something better and slightly larger value caps. These boards are BTL and power as per the seller is 60W (no mention of what load). It can certainly convincingly drive my 8 Ohm speakers to party-loud SPLs🙂
What other mods should one concentrate on to improve the sonics?
Thanks in advance
Oh boy, nice looking "tpa3118", especially the dot looks real nice.
(I mean it doesn't look like a Texas Instruments TPA-3118 chip to me, you could ask TI on their support forum )
(I mean it doesn't look like a Texas Instruments TPA-3118 chip to me, you could ask TI on their support forum )
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Oh boy, nice looking "tpa3118", especially the dot looks real nice.
(I mean it doesn't look like a Texas Instruments TPA-3118 chip to me, you could ask TI on their support forum )
Thanks for the info, irribeo.
It does play music. For now I'm keen to try and improve its sonics. May be I'll buy a better board of it impresses me sufficiently after the mods.
For advice how to mod a fake Sanwu pcb with a fake TI tpa3118 best post in counterfeit semiconductor section 😀
Thanks for the info, irribeo.
It does play music. For now I'm keen to try and improve its sonics. May be I'll buy a better board of it impresses me sufficiently after the mods.
XRK's 1st post of the recent Sanwu board.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ding-them-everything-comes-5.html#post4585203
Suggest removing R27 to lower the gain to 20dB. Then try it again.
For advice how to mod a fake Sanwu pcb with a fake TI tpa3118 best post in counterfeit semiconductor section 😀
Compare the markings on my chip with xrk's board on post#241 here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ing-them-everything-comes-25.html#post4585203
They look very similar. I don't think my board is any more fake than xrk's. As I said, it sings rather well. I'm just not too enamoured by the slight harshness and would like to improve things.
XRK's 1st post of the recent Sanwu board.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ding-them-everything-comes-5.html#post4585203
Suggest removing R27 to lower the gain to 20dB. Then try it again.
Thanks, Jerms.
I would like to have a gain of 26 dB. 20 dB would be low for me as I use an unity buffer before the TPA3118 amp.
Dear jls001. The pin 1 of chip is marked with a dimple (no whiskey) better called recessed dot maybe, that disappears when you shave the chip to remove original markings. Your chip has a laser or ink dot, to make it look like an unshaved chip.
I bought these no-name TPA3118 boards
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Should they really fake them?
This is genuine TI:
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