I am overwhelmed by the number of designs, variants of said designs and how involved and complicated they can get. reading all I have, my imagination is spinning with all sorts of crazy ideas and dreams that I know aren't realistic, so I've decided to ask all the wise and experienced here for some direction to help an ignorant but willing neophyte.
my current gear is the Kanto YU6 and SUB8. are there beginner friendly full range bookshelf speakers that will outperform them? what options would be good to consider if I had $500, $750 or $1000 CAD to budget? for just the speakers, not including the sub.
my current gear is the Kanto YU6 and SUB8. are there beginner friendly full range bookshelf speakers that will outperform them? what options would be good to consider if I had $500, $750 or $1000 CAD to budget? for just the speakers, not including the sub.
This pair with flat pack goes for CAD$669. Dont think there's any below $500 or at $1k thats worth considering 😀
https://www.css-audio.com/online-store/CSS-Model-P215-Kit-Pair-p106569142
I've built a few pairs of speakers using the same midwoofer and have personally heard how impressive those are.
Also mentioned as one of the 5 most SIGNIFICANT speakers under $20k by hifi mag during Axpona 2018 show... very mighty credentials
https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/2018-axpona-show-report-loudspeakers-under-20k
https://www.css-audio.com/online-store/CSS-Model-P215-Kit-Pair-p106569142
I've built a few pairs of speakers using the same midwoofer and have personally heard how impressive those are.
Also mentioned as one of the 5 most SIGNIFICANT speakers under $20k by hifi mag during Axpona 2018 show... very mighty credentials
https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/2018-axpona-show-report-loudspeakers-under-20k
Spoke too soon, the other CSS kit has a better tweeter for abit more money
https://www.css-audio.com/online-store/CSS-Model-P215-X-Kit-Pair-p267104873
Also the recommendations are based on being very similar to your current speakers in size and design so you should hear all round improvements.
https://www.css-audio.com/online-store/CSS-Model-P215-X-Kit-Pair-p267104873
Also the recommendations are based on being very similar to your current speakers in size and design so you should hear all round improvements.
Your existing speakers are powered, is that right?
There are many 6 -7" two way DIY speakers which could suit you, depending on the answers you provide to Rayma above, but I don't think any are powered? Happy to be proved wrong.
I assume you want to buy a complete kit with knock-down cabinets, is that right?
Geoff
There are many 6 -7" two way DIY speakers which could suit you, depending on the answers you provide to Rayma above, but I don't think any are powered? Happy to be proved wrong.
I assume you want to buy a complete kit with knock-down cabinets, is that right?
Geoff
more info and details....I will give some, but please ask for specifics as I don't do well with open ended questions, LoL!
used at my desk in the living room while working at lower volumes generally. it's a wide desk full of LCD monitors, so placement will be 6 - 8ft apart. there will be near a wall behind them and the left channel speaker will be almost inside a corner wall.
a friend told me that I should consider the Klipsch RP-600M as they are very forgiving of placement while maintaining good soundstage / imaging. they just bought some Verity towers and testing some Lamm gear as the sound chain, so I trust his advice. while he got them at used at great prices, new, the parts add up to $250K USD!!!
I listen to orchestral, instrumental and ambient electronica...like movie OST's, Hooverphonic, Johnny Hollow, Massive Attack, etc.
I'm looking for a sound with warmth to it and speakers that will work well with tube pre-amps and amps. my DAC would be an iFi Zen (og, not v2). I don't have any amp / pre-amp currently and hope there are some good sounding diy options that are affordable and not overly complicated. most tube stuff doesn't look overly complicated, but are far from what my definition of affordable is right now.
I have most of Kanto's floor and desk speaker stands, but like I mentioned, unlikely to have space put them the actual desk. so actually, thinking about it, if there are some good floor standing speakers that are placement friendly, I'm open to hearing about them. would a frugal-horn or a transmission line design be worth considering? this should convey that size isn't as big a deal as it could be.
I only want to look at single full range passive speakers. I am fine to build from scratch as my son in law loves to wood work and I know someone with a CnC machine who said they'd be happy to help out with cutting any wood stuff needed.
I don't know how realistic my vision / dream is, but at the end of this journey I'm hoping to have a 2.2 stereo setup that is powered by amps I have assembled.
I will sketch the living room layout and put the diagram up tomorrow to give you an idea of the space.
edit - regarding placement I was trying to convey that I think, due to the side space between the speakers, nearfield and toe-in will be difficult, so speakers that can have little to no toe-in and still have soundstage and imaging are probably a good idea to consider? would a couple DML be a good idea to consider?
used at my desk in the living room while working at lower volumes generally. it's a wide desk full of LCD monitors, so placement will be 6 - 8ft apart. there will be near a wall behind them and the left channel speaker will be almost inside a corner wall.
a friend told me that I should consider the Klipsch RP-600M as they are very forgiving of placement while maintaining good soundstage / imaging. they just bought some Verity towers and testing some Lamm gear as the sound chain, so I trust his advice. while he got them at used at great prices, new, the parts add up to $250K USD!!!
I listen to orchestral, instrumental and ambient electronica...like movie OST's, Hooverphonic, Johnny Hollow, Massive Attack, etc.
I'm looking for a sound with warmth to it and speakers that will work well with tube pre-amps and amps. my DAC would be an iFi Zen (og, not v2). I don't have any amp / pre-amp currently and hope there are some good sounding diy options that are affordable and not overly complicated. most tube stuff doesn't look overly complicated, but are far from what my definition of affordable is right now.
I have most of Kanto's floor and desk speaker stands, but like I mentioned, unlikely to have space put them the actual desk. so actually, thinking about it, if there are some good floor standing speakers that are placement friendly, I'm open to hearing about them. would a frugal-horn or a transmission line design be worth considering? this should convey that size isn't as big a deal as it could be.
I only want to look at single full range passive speakers. I am fine to build from scratch as my son in law loves to wood work and I know someone with a CnC machine who said they'd be happy to help out with cutting any wood stuff needed.
I don't know how realistic my vision / dream is, but at the end of this journey I'm hoping to have a 2.2 stereo setup that is powered by amps I have assembled.
I will sketch the living room layout and put the diagram up tomorrow to give you an idea of the space.
edit - regarding placement I was trying to convey that I think, due to the side space between the speakers, nearfield and toe-in will be difficult, so speakers that can have little to no toe-in and still have soundstage and imaging are probably a good idea to consider? would a couple DML be a good idea to consider?
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The amp will be a major factor in which speakers you go for. A low power tube amp is totally different from a class D amp. Without that you can’t really narrow down the choices.
The amp will be a major factor in which speakers you go for. A low power tube amp is totally different from a class D amp. Without that you can’t really narrow down the choices.
at the both of you...what are some examples of low and high power tube amps and simple speaker designs they would work well with? 😀Who says a tube amp has to be low power?
jeff
I've been reading about how the voice coil's length compared to the voice coil gap length (an overhung, underhung, or equal hung voice coil) affects the behavior of the driver's qts and linearity when it's driven with music. I remember planet10 mentioned he designs his 'Fonken's to allow for this, to make the driver behavior more dynamically consistent, with the cabinet. At least that's how I understood it. Made me curious about them.
There's a subforum here..
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/forums/planet-10-hifi.113/
There's a subforum here..
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/forums/planet-10-hifi.113/
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No one. However, a low power tube amp needs a different set of speaker attributes than a high powered one does. A 5 watt amp with low damping factor is a different beast than a SS amp with high power and a high damping factor. Being as this is a first project, I doubt he’s going with a monster amp hence the full range speaker idea.Who says a tube amp has to be low power?
jeff
For a 100 sq. foot room...90dB sound level for continuous use, maybe 95 dB...how many watts?
Go from there.
Wall mount the speakers if you are short of room...or have small kids, or pets.
I bought a whole bunch of Philips speakers at the local flea market, now awaiting deployment if needed.
Amps, using PC as the source?
Many threads and opinions here.
Go from there.
Wall mount the speakers if you are short of room...or have small kids, or pets.
I bought a whole bunch of Philips speakers at the local flea market, now awaiting deployment if needed.
Amps, using PC as the source?
Many threads and opinions here.
I imagine the amp includes XO, DSP, so seriously doubt there's a DIY kit unless there's some really expensive ones I'm not aware of, ditto high end cab kits.There are many 6 -7" two way DIY speakers which could suit you, depending on the answers you provide to Rayma above, but I don't think any are powered?
No one. However, a low power tube amp needs a different set of speaker attributes than a high powered one does.
Depends. Tubes have a reputation, from old designs largely, for being" tubey” (whatever that means) but a good tube amp and a good SS amp can be hard to tell apart (my SIT-3 vrs my diy EL84 triode PP amp). Now it is true that an amplifier and a speaker has to be considered as a system. Given the broad reach of diy 9much wider than available commercially) this becomes more important.$70 in parts including the amp.
I tend to recommend one-way speakers for a first build, and given your placement a single driver speaker has significant advantages.
For now you can use your existing sub — one step at a time.
dave
what are some examples of low and high power tube amps and simple speaker designs they would work well with? 😀
I'm thinkin' a vented box for Mark Audio A10.3/11MS/CH-110. You can view the drivers and some of the box designs here: https://www.markaudio.com/online_shop/alpair/alpair-10-3/, and also on Dave's site. http://frugal-phile.com/boxes-markaudio.html
You'll probably want at least 12W/channel for any of these drivers in a small/medium space, and more power if you want to rock. Really boils down to the size of your room and listening habits/preferences.
jeff
I'm thinkin' a vented box for Mark Audio A10.3/11MS/CH-110. You can view the drivers and some of the box designs here: https://www.markaudio.com/online_shop/alpair/alpair-10-3/, and also on Dave's site. http://frugal-phile.com/boxes-markaudio.html
Hey, this looks good to me, thank you I hadn't seen it.
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/CGR-MarKen103p-plan-040414.pdf
should I interpret the bigger numbers as mm and the smaller as inches?Hey, this looks good to me, thank you I hadn't seen it.
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/CGR-MarKen103p-plan-040414.pdf
That's probably well within the +/- tolerance range for plywood. 😉The detail does get thrown out when you gtet your 15mm plywood and actual thickness is 14.9mm, or 15.2mm :^)
jeff
It is.
It is worse when you get a sheet with different thicknesses at each end.
You always want to calibrate the cut with the info you get from the calipers on the raw sheet.
dave
It is worse when you get a sheet with different thicknesses at each end.
You always want to calibrate the cut with the info you get from the calipers on the raw sheet.
dave
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