F6 Illustrated Build Guide

Official Court Jester
Joined 2003
Paid Member
something is wrong and you must find what is it

have 6V8 across zeners?

mosfets isolated from heatsink? ( small metal bur can ruin your day) - check that measuring resistance between heatsink metal and mid pin of mosfet

-recheck all resistors once more, including trimpots

-if measuring resistor in circuit is giving suspicious reading, unsolder one end from pcb
 
My F6 is alive! Output transistor was fried.

Now all is ok, and it plays its first track)

Bias is 1.1A.

Please, have a look at my twins) left to right: F4 with BA3 front end (waiting for JFETS), F6, F5. It is the coolest arithmetic i've ever learned))

Many thanks to all of you, to 6l6 for the build guide, to ZM for advices, and to Mr. Pass for his genius!

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Try increasing the bias to 1.6 Amps or as much as 1.8 Amps. As long as the heat sinks can be touched for 10 seconds, you’re Ok.

I have seen ( using QA401 ) that over 1.5 A , distortion is rising as much as the temperature , and for me the "sound " doesn't benefit , it may depends of the setup of each one

I personally stop and stay at 1.4 A , it seems to be the best sound/distortion ratio ;)

It also seems that some like it more "colored" , so why not ;)


.
 
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My F6 is alive! Output transistor was fried.

Now all is ok, and it plays its first track)

Bias is 1.1A.

Please, have a look at my twins) left to right: F4 with BA3 front end (waiting for JFETS), F6, F5. It is the coolest arithmetic i've ever learned))

Many thanks to all of you, to 6l6 for the build guide, to ZM for advices, and to Mr. Pass for his genius!

View attachment 948941 View attachment 948942 View attachment 948943 View attachment 948944 View attachment 948945

Congrats. Those are makulu heatsinks! Enough for lots of heat.
 
I feel so sorry because of my stupidness.
I had silly mistake for wiring PSU rail +/- opposite
when changing reflector diode only few seconds.
There was no smoke but no sound come out.
3 Leds instead of zenner diode still lights on
But when I turn off, Z1 stay on for few seconds but Z2
Turn off quickly.
What is possibly damaged?
 

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I feel so sorry because of my stupidness.
I had silly mistake for wiring PSU rail +/- opposite
when changing reflector diode only few seconds.
There was no smoke but no sound come out.
3 Leds instead of zenner diode still lights on
But when I turn off, Z1 stay on for few seconds but Z2
Turn off quickly.
What is possibly damaged?

Have a look at R1 and R2 , I made the same mistake years ago and those resistor were well burn and almost dead ;)

what you did is kinda short , so high current occur in the all power supply circuit , have a look at the all power supply

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AudGuy,

For the hot line fuse and for the neutral fuse I believe 2.5A or 3A (Slow Blow) each will be fine for your F6, especially if you have implemented the CL-60 thermistor/softstart with the DIYAUDIO power supply board.

If you look on the 1st page of this thread, you'll see the power supply schematic and it has detailed the value of the fuse. Although it shows only a 2.5A slow blow in the hot line, having a 2.5A fuse in the neutral line is an additional safety measure and since your fuse holder accommodates it then why not.

Best,
Anand.
 
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If both the hot and neutral wires are fused, for safety, the neutral fuse should be higher current capacity so that in the event of a fault, the hot fuse will blow. If the neutral blows instead, the hot line is still live and there is still electricity in the chassis.

Ben,

Excellent point. So would you recommend a 3A in the neutral and 2.5A in the hot line?

Thanks,
Anand.
 
Member
Joined 2012
Paid Member
For the neutral fuse, I would choose one that is many amperes higher than the hot fuse. For the hot fuse, I usually take the transformer VA and divide it by the Line AC voltage to get the fuse size. For the neutral fuse, I would perhaps at least double the hot fuse capacity. Then it is of utmost importance to properly identify the hot fuse and neutral fuse locations and install the fuses in the right locations.

All my amplifiers have only a hot fuse so I have not had to deal with this situation.