The above was posted last week, but this is a higher res snag up to about 2kHz only. This really shows the bass "going through the roof" as I have mentioned before. It is playing music from an iPhone through my guitar horns only, no guitar playing involved at all. The 3" drivers don't change much above 1 kHz, and they did not need to, it was all mids and highs without horns. Close the horns and wow, bass increase is incredible, and you sure can hear it.
As I have noted earlier, I believe an acoustic guitar can sound just a little too thin due to the high steel strings. The lower steel bronze wrapped strings do not have this problem. This added bass from horns really smooths out the entire sound, adds warmth, but still lets the high strings break through, not over bearing anymore. I was not sure if I could claim better tone on this guitar, but I am now very confident this is happening, along with 4X the power!
Obviously greater low end can be achieved with larger drivers, which I can not fit inside my guitar. I have read that digit processing can add greater lows, which I am not using, do not fully understand, and am skeptical about the results. I understand that "small" music systems use this, that is enough evidence for me, they don't sound so great.
The other way to get great lows from smaller speakers in spaces that can not be large is horns/waveguides of course. My experimentation is absolute proof that this works. I can hear it, and I have the data. I have discussed the 1/4 wavelength rule here before, and have never had a response. Research suggests this is critical, and now I believe it. 80Hz from a guitar has a wavelength of approx. 16 feet. 1/4 of that is four feet. I have two horns/waveguides that are each five feet long, does the trick.
I would love to hear comments about this, let me have it!
I ordered a new Fishman magnetic pickup and piezo pickup, they will go in the new guitar, and will leave the old ones in the existing guitar. After fitting the magnetic pickup, which is adjustable to different diameters, I have plenty of room to drum sand the sound hole opening, and get rid of the jigsaw mistake, good to stay wood safe. Progress!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2bbwgb45qdp8p94/Mono Pink Noise.wav?dl=0
A pink noise file. Download that, play it through your horns with the amp EQ flat, do the same frequency analysis in REW using 1/48th octave analysis.
Still may be possible, such that the driver is turned facing the back of the guitar. Its magnet may need a sealed cutout in the separating board to stick through. The front and back of the driver are separated by a plate, which would also hold the driver some distance above the back of the guitar.
The chamber at the back of the driver feeds into one horn, while the chamber at the front of the driver feeds into the second horn. You could even have a conical structure protruding off the back of the guitar up into the cone (front) of the speaker. This fills the cavity that would otherwise exist and perhaps make an unwanted resonance and turns the assembly into a "compression" driver.
Of course, that little bit of imagination would be a lot harder to make, as the height of the conical space-filler would have to correspond to the driver cone's throw from where's its mounted on that separating plate. The X-Y alignment with the speaker cone would have to be machine tight. I dont know what speaker you could use, but I'm sure there's something bigger, with more power handling; probably in car audio component realm. A thin one, for doors, but FR - needs a dustcap. Unsure if they have anything without tweeter-on-a-post.
A pink noise file. Download that, play it through your horns with the amp EQ flat, do the same frequency analysis in REW using 1/48th octave analysis.
Still may be possible, such that the driver is turned facing the back of the guitar. Its magnet may need a sealed cutout in the separating board to stick through. The front and back of the driver are separated by a plate, which would also hold the driver some distance above the back of the guitar.
The chamber at the back of the driver feeds into one horn, while the chamber at the front of the driver feeds into the second horn. You could even have a conical structure protruding off the back of the guitar up into the cone (front) of the speaker. This fills the cavity that would otherwise exist and perhaps make an unwanted resonance and turns the assembly into a "compression" driver.
Of course, that little bit of imagination would be a lot harder to make, as the height of the conical space-filler would have to correspond to the driver cone's throw from where's its mounted on that separating plate. The X-Y alignment with the speaker cone would have to be machine tight. I dont know what speaker you could use, but I'm sure there's something bigger, with more power handling; probably in car audio component realm. A thin one, for doors, but FR - needs a dustcap. Unsure if they have anything without tweeter-on-a-post.
JJ - what about this part: The other way to get great lows from smaller speakers in spaces that can not be large is horns/waveguides of course. My experimentation is absolute proof that this works. I can hear it, and I have the data. I have discussed the 1/4 wavelength rule here before, and have never had a response. Research suggests this is critical, and now I believe it. 80Hz from a guitar has a wavelength of approx. 16 feet. 1/4 of that is four feet. I have two horns/waveguides that are each five feet long, does the trick.
You are being a wild man again! I am happy with my sound and the data results, I need to keep my focus on the build!
You are being a wild man again! I am happy with my sound and the data results, I need to keep my focus on the build!
Guitar is assembled and strings are on, good news and bad news:
The bad news is my lower quality neck is warped a little. I knew this when it came off the CNC machine. I decided to use it and make mistakes on this neck. I was hoping the string force would pull it up, did not happen, sounds like *** due to fret buzz.
When I pushed this neck forward (as you can do with any guitar) the low E sting rings out, did the same with my Taylor, does not sound very different at all, good!
The good news is I have another neck, it is straight as an arrow, will not have this problem. I squared the wood up first, then CNC, based on the problems with the first neck, live and learn!
Also the soundboard is rock solid, no way in hell the force of the strings will affect the screws or soundboard, good news!
Two steps forward and one step back again, but very encouraged by the soundboard and I have a good neck (will machine two more of these).
I also found a more powerful Class D amp about the same size, will be here this week. Will rip this apart and test. Need more battery powered watts, must have head room. I want to play this guitar on 6, not 9! Let's Rock!
The bad news is my lower quality neck is warped a little. I knew this when it came off the CNC machine. I decided to use it and make mistakes on this neck. I was hoping the string force would pull it up, did not happen, sounds like *** due to fret buzz.
When I pushed this neck forward (as you can do with any guitar) the low E sting rings out, did the same with my Taylor, does not sound very different at all, good!
The good news is I have another neck, it is straight as an arrow, will not have this problem. I squared the wood up first, then CNC, based on the problems with the first neck, live and learn!
Also the soundboard is rock solid, no way in hell the force of the strings will affect the screws or soundboard, good news!
Two steps forward and one step back again, but very encouraged by the soundboard and I have a good neck (will machine two more of these).
I also found a more powerful Class D amp about the same size, will be here this week. Will rip this apart and test. Need more battery powered watts, must have head room. I want to play this guitar on 6, not 9! Let's Rock!
After applying a nice finish, you'll need to hire a hot model, then photoshop in flames coming out the horn exits. Put that in a full page advert in Guitar Player magazine.
I've seen Chat GPT really slather it on, when you ask it to write a glowing ad copy. (So much so, I was embarrassed to use it for my ebay listing of an old, used guitar). It'd be perfect for this! Congratulations on what appears to be a playable build. Wish I could see it in person.
I've seen Chat GPT really slather it on, when you ask it to write a glowing ad copy. (So much so, I was embarrassed to use it for my ebay listing of an old, used guitar). It'd be perfect for this! Congratulations on what appears to be a playable build. Wish I could see it in person.
Love it JJ! 
Thinking of going with a light stain of the same color everywhere, since all the wood is Rock Maple. I am thinking about advert is Acoustic Guitar Magazine, which I have subscribed to for years. $5,000 for a full page ad, will only do that when the time is right, pretty salty. Too bad you live so far from me, maybe we will meet one of these days at a music show or something! I have not tried Chat GPT yet, good idea, may need to check that out for the background, and the flames!
I am going to join Google Business Profile, which gives others my business email address, (and can cause a flood of unwanted emails), but more importantly gives me access to emails of individuals in corporations, anybody ever use this? Not sure if Gibson, Fender...are using this. Can then send links to YouTube (when done) and other info, patent, pictures, oh yeah and my website, whenever I start that!
I am working on my better neck now, looks great, will fix the string buzz problem for sure. I did say before my neck was straight as an arrow, and it is, this second neck. I used my first neck to experiment, and I am glad I did, because the sides got a little small at the top. Plus I just sawed some 5"x5"x24" Rock Maple pieces to bring to the shop Monday, CNC two more necks, now that I know what works. Have three bodies, need three necks, plus the body to neck fit is custom, so I can't use an "off the shelf" neck blank. When I did that first neck, I didn't know what I didn't know. I am good at getting things right the second time!
Jammed last night. When I play a regular acoustic guitar, then hit the switch and the horns go on, I almost break out laughing at the difference, especially when I have not heard it in a week, let's rock!
Thinking of going with a light stain of the same color everywhere, since all the wood is Rock Maple. I am thinking about advert is Acoustic Guitar Magazine, which I have subscribed to for years. $5,000 for a full page ad, will only do that when the time is right, pretty salty. Too bad you live so far from me, maybe we will meet one of these days at a music show or something! I have not tried Chat GPT yet, good idea, may need to check that out for the background, and the flames!I am going to join Google Business Profile, which gives others my business email address, (and can cause a flood of unwanted emails), but more importantly gives me access to emails of individuals in corporations, anybody ever use this? Not sure if Gibson, Fender...are using this. Can then send links to YouTube (when done) and other info, patent, pictures, oh yeah and my website, whenever I start that!
I am working on my better neck now, looks great, will fix the string buzz problem for sure. I did say before my neck was straight as an arrow, and it is, this second neck. I used my first neck to experiment, and I am glad I did, because the sides got a little small at the top. Plus I just sawed some 5"x5"x24" Rock Maple pieces to bring to the shop Monday, CNC two more necks, now that I know what works. Have three bodies, need three necks, plus the body to neck fit is custom, so I can't use an "off the shelf" neck blank. When I did that first neck, I didn't know what I didn't know. I am good at getting things right the second time!
Jammed last night. When I play a regular acoustic guitar, then hit the switch and the horns go on, I almost break out laughing at the difference, especially when I have not heard it in a week, let's rock!
Thinking a nice chrome Lipstick pickup between the soundhole and the end of the fretboard, might be a good way to get it electrified quick and easy. Plenty of room on the top for a volume control, with a tail-pin strap-hook combo output jack. You gotta hold it in your hands whilst those horns are making the guitar's sound. Plus, a volume right there would be great for "now watch this" type demos.
The amp part can sit outside for the time being. Regarding that, you may want to make a version where the player decides his/her own amplifier, as we know how picayune guitar players can be about it. A very close similarity to why "powered" speakers never really caught on in HiFi, or at least took decades to do so; "but I want to use my own amp" ruiners for everyone else who just might think it's probably good enough. Thinking Phillips RH544 and Pink Floyd.
I ordered one of those built-in amps for acoustic guitar, that drive a transducer placed somewhere on the backside of the instrument. Similar to Yamaha's CG-TA "TransAcoustic" setup...I assume. Hopefully it gives the body of whatever guitar I put it in a nice "ring to it", which is all it's supposed to do; driving the "echo" and "reverb" effect into the guitar body - versus the whole sound of it like your system does.
The amp part can sit outside for the time being. Regarding that, you may want to make a version where the player decides his/her own amplifier, as we know how picayune guitar players can be about it. A very close similarity to why "powered" speakers never really caught on in HiFi, or at least took decades to do so; "but I want to use my own amp" ruiners for everyone else who just might think it's probably good enough. Thinking Phillips RH544 and Pink Floyd.
I ordered one of those built-in amps for acoustic guitar, that drive a transducer placed somewhere on the backside of the instrument. Similar to Yamaha's CG-TA "TransAcoustic" setup...I assume. Hopefully it gives the body of whatever guitar I put it in a nice "ring to it", which is all it's supposed to do; driving the "echo" and "reverb" effect into the guitar body - versus the whole sound of it like your system does.
JJ - chrome eh? Like it! I just love your comment: "hold it in your hands whilst those horns are making the guitar's sound". That is the essence of this instrument for sure.
Of course the amp is outside the guitar now, and yes I would like to put it in the guitar, and yes I do think it is feasible, but I admit I like your idea of having it outside the guitar also. Ian from "Chicago School of Guitar Making" said the same thing. I have been on the fence about this for a long time. I think having the option of inside or outside might work.
See below for a new 80 watt amp - 80 watts! The little secret about battery powered amps is plugged in is full wattage, with battery not as much, sometimes half as much! If I used this 80 watt amp, worse case with battery would be 40 watts, 20 watts per channel, and each of my speakers is rated for 20 watts, 4 ohms, all set!
I am considering writing a third patent that includes the amp options. Thankfully FITF (first inventor to file) covers all patents, I could do this, and not care about when it is granted. I am beyond the legal (but happy I am doing it for protection), just keep building and get her done, let the legal docs cover me whenever the USPTO gets it done. I know they are swamped with patent reviews, everybody wants a U.S. patent, a very good thing!
Oh yeah, also a good point about powered speakers, always wondered about that.
So the built in amp, you mean the Tonewood? Seems pretty cool, but I don't think it adds any power, correct? Let me know how yours sounds please.
Maybe we can meet some day at a music show. I may not make a penny on this, but if I hit it big, I will not forget you, will give you a cut!
Art, where are you my friend? The same goes with you! I thought of you the other day when I was listening to Heartsfield again, never, ever gets old.
I took about .100" of an inch off the maple neck (head only) with a rasp file tonight, makes you sweat! I like CNC very much, but I also like to leave stock to finish by hand.
I know some people think you can cut everything 100% with CNC, and it will be perfect, then just assemble it.
This is NOT true. I have seen it from building my own guitar, and I have seen it professionally in the automotive industry. The world is not perfect, and neither is CNC.
Cutters wear out, temperature affects everything, materials are not always consistent, human error in setup, programming errors, **** happens, welcome to the real world. High quality guitars can very much use CNC, but they still must have a Luthier to fit, assemble, finish by hand IF you want a high quality instrument, that can last, I mean really for 100 years! Let's rock!
Of course the amp is outside the guitar now, and yes I would like to put it in the guitar, and yes I do think it is feasible, but I admit I like your idea of having it outside the guitar also. Ian from "Chicago School of Guitar Making" said the same thing. I have been on the fence about this for a long time. I think having the option of inside or outside might work.
See below for a new 80 watt amp - 80 watts! The little secret about battery powered amps is plugged in is full wattage, with battery not as much, sometimes half as much! If I used this 80 watt amp, worse case with battery would be 40 watts, 20 watts per channel, and each of my speakers is rated for 20 watts, 4 ohms, all set!
I am considering writing a third patent that includes the amp options. Thankfully FITF (first inventor to file) covers all patents, I could do this, and not care about when it is granted. I am beyond the legal (but happy I am doing it for protection), just keep building and get her done, let the legal docs cover me whenever the USPTO gets it done. I know they are swamped with patent reviews, everybody wants a U.S. patent, a very good thing!
Oh yeah, also a good point about powered speakers, always wondered about that.
So the built in amp, you mean the Tonewood? Seems pretty cool, but I don't think it adds any power, correct? Let me know how yours sounds please.
Maybe we can meet some day at a music show. I may not make a penny on this, but if I hit it big, I will not forget you, will give you a cut!
Art, where are you my friend? The same goes with you! I thought of you the other day when I was listening to Heartsfield again, never, ever gets old.
I took about .100" of an inch off the maple neck (head only) with a rasp file tonight, makes you sweat! I like CNC very much, but I also like to leave stock to finish by hand.
I know some people think you can cut everything 100% with CNC, and it will be perfect, then just assemble it.
This is NOT true. I have seen it from building my own guitar, and I have seen it professionally in the automotive industry. The world is not perfect, and neither is CNC.
Cutters wear out, temperature affects everything, materials are not always consistent, human error in setup, programming errors, **** happens, welcome to the real world. High quality guitars can very much use CNC, but they still must have a Luthier to fit, assemble, finish by hand IF you want a high quality instrument, that can last, I mean really for 100 years! Let's rock!
Happy to see I now have 24,000 hits, about 1,000 hits a month consistently, thank you all and keep visiting!
I now have a YouTube account, wait for final product, have Website options, will likely go with Google Business Profile for B2B connections.
When build is complete soon, ready for marketing, let's make the acoustic guitar rock!
I now have a YouTube account, wait for final product, have Website options, will likely go with Google Business Profile for B2B connections.
When build is complete soon, ready for marketing, let's make the acoustic guitar rock!
Just a few observations from a great book about guitars attached, oh the power just not there, until now!
My wife is out of town, so I setup my music station in the dining room, big room. I thought maybe the room acoustics would render my guitar to a weaker output, it did not!
I usually play with some sense of hold back, so as not to wake her, but this time I could go with a sense of complete guitar playing abandon, was fantastic! This guitar rocks! In fact I am going back for more after this.
My new neck is great (straight as an arrow neck) fret buzz will be gone, so much better. All I can think about now is when this is finally assembled, please do not feedback, please! Oh the wonder, the joy, the fear!
Shop music for tonight was The Guess Who, The Allman Brothers, King Crimson and Joe Pass - The Bald Eagle! Man can that guy play, stunning!
My wife is out of town, so I setup my music station in the dining room, big room. I thought maybe the room acoustics would render my guitar to a weaker output, it did not!
I usually play with some sense of hold back, so as not to wake her, but this time I could go with a sense of complete guitar playing abandon, was fantastic! This guitar rocks! In fact I am going back for more after this.
My new neck is great (straight as an arrow neck) fret buzz will be gone, so much better. All I can think about now is when this is finally assembled, please do not feedback, please! Oh the wonder, the joy, the fear!
Shop music for tonight was The Guess Who, The Allman Brothers, King Crimson and Joe Pass - The Bald Eagle! Man can that guy play, stunning!
Neck arranged mag pickup would be a good place to start - more solid mounting foundation up there (off and away from the vibrating top) and away from the drivers underneath.
Hope you're ready for a video; I imagine people would want to see / hear how the sound changes when the horns are pointed directly at the camera / microphone, vs to the side when the guitar is facing the camera. Performers maybe use that as an effect, maybe not. Maybe drives a dual output (neck side, tail side) horn mouth arrangement, or dual neck side output as an option.
You could just throw all the amp / battery stuff into a backpack for that, with two 1/4" jacks on the guitar for pickup and speaker connection. Save a lot of time working the amp bits physically into the guitar, while getting a product illustration out there sooner.
Yeah JJ, if the amp is integrated, it can come later. I like the backpack idea! Pickup location is a consideration, but I really like the piezo and mag combo right now, sounds great. I have tested both, and do not expect feedback based on those results, but you never know, stay tuned and thanks!
Had a look at the docs posted to your "amp" thread. Do you really have the back of the speakers open at the back side of the guitar? As I mentioned elsewhere, I think it should be a fully closed chamber behind them, for power handling, efficiency.
Playing around with my wood back driven by exciter acoustic guitar, I notice I can "swell" the sound in volume by pressing my belly against the back to lower the volume, pulling the guitar away from having its back touch anything to bring the volume back up. It's like having reverb on a volume pedal!
Perhaps a performer can do something similar with the back opening to the horn drivers, which should change both volume and tone; each going higher when the cavity is closed...via the most appropriate body part that can do so. A removable cover, screwed down like your top, would give the player a choice to play with that effect or just leave it static.
I also notice the word "Stereo" was mentioned and it's really not as, so far, each speaker is driven by the same mono source. But there's variations easily done (so he says...). One horn could be the "dry" signal, the other "effects". One horn could be tuned for the EAD strings, the other the GBE - if you have a split pickup like a Fender P Bass. That would beg for separate horn lengths and driver chambers, as the frequency range of each string set is different. If you routed it such that one horn exited at the tail, one at the neck, then it'd be more "Stereo" with the split pickups driving separate amplification channels. I'm pretty sure you could imagineer the wood fabrication part of that, for further patent protections!
Playing around with my wood back driven by exciter acoustic guitar, I notice I can "swell" the sound in volume by pressing my belly against the back to lower the volume, pulling the guitar away from having its back touch anything to bring the volume back up. It's like having reverb on a volume pedal!
Perhaps a performer can do something similar with the back opening to the horn drivers, which should change both volume and tone; each going higher when the cavity is closed...via the most appropriate body part that can do so. A removable cover, screwed down like your top, would give the player a choice to play with that effect or just leave it static.
I also notice the word "Stereo" was mentioned and it's really not as, so far, each speaker is driven by the same mono source. But there's variations easily done (so he says...). One horn could be the "dry" signal, the other "effects". One horn could be tuned for the EAD strings, the other the GBE - if you have a split pickup like a Fender P Bass. That would beg for separate horn lengths and driver chambers, as the frequency range of each string set is different. If you routed it such that one horn exited at the tail, one at the neck, then it'd be more "Stereo" with the split pickups driving separate amplification channels. I'm pretty sure you could imagineer the wood fabrication part of that, for further patent protections!
Hello JJ - they are open for now, but will be closed. I test with the guitar on the floor, so they are closed then, but not 100% sealed of course. That means it will just get better! Plus I do like the idea of the guitar player covering this with their body for your reasons, also so the vibration will go into the players body, it will be strong with the speakers so close, the "become one with your instrument" concept, which I know happens from testing, and I believe this will be a very positive experience. Plus I can cover however I need to later, I know it is critical, but not worried about it just yet.
Yes the piezo is split into both speakers, and so is the magnetic pickup, so technically both are mono, but I do have two horns and speakers, so stereo in that sense. I don't want to change anything right now, because I am VERY happy with sound, and the data sure does support what I am hearing. Especially after jamming hard last weekend with my wife out of town, could not get anything to go wrong, was very encouraging!
I saw an interesting article about how a small 3" speakers can produce an 80Hz signal just as easy as a large 12" woofer, you just will not be able to hear it well with a small speaker, and it's relative excursion, so of course nobody expects a small speaker to produce bass, and it will not - unless you have a five foot long waveguide/horn attached to it, then everything changes. The bass does go through the roof, I have the data to prove it, and my ears confirm it, night and day difference with the horns. Without this happening, this guitar would be toast. You just can't fit two 12" drivers inside a guitar.
That is why all the guitars over the years with a simple hole and driver added do not work. That is a pretty easy thing to do, and the results are not surprising. Cutting solid folded horns into a guitar body from a solid piece of maple 6" thick, is much more difficult, but the results show it is worth the effort, let's make the acoustic guitar rock!
Yes the piezo is split into both speakers, and so is the magnetic pickup, so technically both are mono, but I do have two horns and speakers, so stereo in that sense. I don't want to change anything right now, because I am VERY happy with sound, and the data sure does support what I am hearing. Especially after jamming hard last weekend with my wife out of town, could not get anything to go wrong, was very encouraging!
I saw an interesting article about how a small 3" speakers can produce an 80Hz signal just as easy as a large 12" woofer, you just will not be able to hear it well with a small speaker, and it's relative excursion, so of course nobody expects a small speaker to produce bass, and it will not - unless you have a five foot long waveguide/horn attached to it, then everything changes. The bass does go through the roof, I have the data to prove it, and my ears confirm it, night and day difference with the horns. Without this happening, this guitar would be toast. You just can't fit two 12" drivers inside a guitar.
That is why all the guitars over the years with a simple hole and driver added do not work. That is a pretty easy thing to do, and the results are not surprising. Cutting solid folded horns into a guitar body from a solid piece of maple 6" thick, is much more difficult, but the results show it is worth the effort, let's make the acoustic guitar rock!
Plus I know filtering can help get small speakers to provide more bass, but doesn't that just filter out highs and mids to get more bass?? How is that good? Maybe that is why small speakers alone in a small package sound like ****. I mean listen to music from your laptop, awful. How about small wireless speakers, not much better.
The best I have heard in a small package is the Bose Waveguide radio/CD player. I have heard CD's sound pretty good on this little guy, but the other day I had a CD in that was not producing much bass, maybe it was the original mix and the Bose could not add enough, just heard this recently, so my opinion on Bose is still good, but has some downs.
Maybe that is because the waveguides are made of .080" thick plastic, are not very wide, and I believe the length unfolded is about 20", plus there is only one waveguide, the second speaker does not have one. Def going in the right direction, but needs more. My waveguide is made from 1/4" thick Rock Maple, much wider and taller, tapers gradually at the end into a horn, is five feet long, and there are two of them. In audio and acoustic guitars, size matters! Have you ever heard a Ukulele rock?
The best I have heard in a small package is the Bose Waveguide radio/CD player. I have heard CD's sound pretty good on this little guy, but the other day I had a CD in that was not producing much bass, maybe it was the original mix and the Bose could not add enough, just heard this recently, so my opinion on Bose is still good, but has some downs.
Maybe that is because the waveguides are made of .080" thick plastic, are not very wide, and I believe the length unfolded is about 20", plus there is only one waveguide, the second speaker does not have one. Def going in the right direction, but needs more. My waveguide is made from 1/4" thick Rock Maple, much wider and taller, tapers gradually at the end into a horn, is five feet long, and there are two of them. In audio and acoustic guitars, size matters! Have you ever heard a Ukulele rock?
I can go even further into la-la land.
Somewhere in this site someone (I think XRK) talks about really small speakers that can handle very high power levels; you might want to look that up for alternate drivers that are - possibly - even smaller in diameter than what you're currently using. Just in case you'd ever like to thin-down the depth of the horn section, while leaving its routed horn length the same.
So, what's one of the most popular electrics? Telecaster comes to mind. What if you built a "horn section" that just gloms onto the back of a Telecaster, making it's depth about the same 4 - 4.5" as an acoustic guitar, versus the 1.75" plank that it is in stock form? People play guitars at acoustic body thicknesses all the time, so it'd still be playable. They make and sell "Telecoustic" versions.
Might take some clever engineering to get the "horn section" to wrap around the Tele body, stay in place while being played, not buzz or rattle, have no magnetic interference into the existing pickup placements, etc, etc. If the guitar's perimeter changes shape to accommodate the horn routing, so what? People play guitars that are physically bigger than a Tele - wider, thicker - all the time.
That idea would reduce your build problem-set significantly. You'd only have to think about the horn section, its routing, horn length design, the speakers' arrangement and its fit onto the existing guitar... If it ever caught on, you could take the idea well into the land of cheap; the whole thing made in China out of ABS plastic - like a Bose Wave radio.
A player could busk with that attached during the day, then play the same guitar normally in a band at night.
Somewhere in this site someone (I think XRK) talks about really small speakers that can handle very high power levels; you might want to look that up for alternate drivers that are - possibly - even smaller in diameter than what you're currently using. Just in case you'd ever like to thin-down the depth of the horn section, while leaving its routed horn length the same.
So, what's one of the most popular electrics? Telecaster comes to mind. What if you built a "horn section" that just gloms onto the back of a Telecaster, making it's depth about the same 4 - 4.5" as an acoustic guitar, versus the 1.75" plank that it is in stock form? People play guitars at acoustic body thicknesses all the time, so it'd still be playable. They make and sell "Telecoustic" versions.
Might take some clever engineering to get the "horn section" to wrap around the Tele body, stay in place while being played, not buzz or rattle, have no magnetic interference into the existing pickup placements, etc, etc. If the guitar's perimeter changes shape to accommodate the horn routing, so what? People play guitars that are physically bigger than a Tele - wider, thicker - all the time.
That idea would reduce your build problem-set significantly. You'd only have to think about the horn section, its routing, horn length design, the speakers' arrangement and its fit onto the existing guitar... If it ever caught on, you could take the idea well into the land of cheap; the whole thing made in China out of ABS plastic - like a Bose Wave radio.
A player could busk with that attached during the day, then play the same guitar normally in a band at night.
I have tested some very small speakers, they suck. That said, there may be some very good small speakers you mention that I am not aware of, any leads?
The horn idea in any guitar will test my patent strength, because many versions can be designed. My current patent and my patent that is being reviewed now will both need to be considered. I would be happy to license this to anybody interested. I also know the strength of my patent will only be proven in a court of law, if it ever goes there, and nobody really knows the outcome for sure.
I think you should design this JJ, and I will license it to you, because I think it is a good idea, and I do want to spread this technology, go for it!
The horn idea in any guitar will test my patent strength, because many versions can be designed. My current patent and my patent that is being reviewed now will both need to be considered. I would be happy to license this to anybody interested. I also know the strength of my patent will only be proven in a court of law, if it ever goes there, and nobody really knows the outcome for sure.
I think you should design this JJ, and I will license it to you, because I think it is a good idea, and I do want to spread this technology, go for it!
The great thing about making anything in assembly, like drilling holes through the neck and body together, is they are a perfect match, well known. CNC is great, but a perfect match is just as good, or better. Luthiers of course have been doing this for decades.
My first neck and body were drilled together, great, but the neck sucks, what to do?
Drill through a new (much better) neck, guess what, the match is not perfect.
Not a problem, because the dovetail fit was matched by hand. CNC to get the geometry perfect, but sand and fit by hand is critical! The drilled holes are just clearance, the screws work in one direction only of course, easy fix. When my new second neck (which is a beauty) showed gaps, no surprise, just open the holes a little and let the dovetail locate, the screws do their job in one direction only. Fretting the fingerboard is next, oh boy. so close!
RIP Gordon Lightfoot, he did not just play the guitar, he played songs! Beautiful guitar, great lyrics, great vocals, melody!
My first neck and body were drilled together, great, but the neck sucks, what to do?
Drill through a new (much better) neck, guess what, the match is not perfect.
Not a problem, because the dovetail fit was matched by hand. CNC to get the geometry perfect, but sand and fit by hand is critical! The drilled holes are just clearance, the screws work in one direction only of course, easy fix. When my new second neck (which is a beauty) showed gaps, no surprise, just open the holes a little and let the dovetail locate, the screws do their job in one direction only. Fretting the fingerboard is next, oh boy. so close!
RIP Gordon Lightfoot, he did not just play the guitar, he played songs! Beautiful guitar, great lyrics, great vocals, melody!