I'm not a cable nut, but flat ribbon cables *do* sound very different. Anyone who has owned something like Nordost Flatline Gold after using stranded cables will tell you about the crystalline highs and the lovely open unfettered sound of the Nordost, albeit at a loss of some lower bass notes. Its something electrostatic speakers show immediately (the transparency) when ribbon cables are used vs. the stranded stuff.
I wouldn't subject myself to blind testing with many things in hi-fi as it is all quite subjective, but I would pick with almost 100% accuracy the difference between Nordost Flatline Gold vs. zip cord.
Regards,
Steve M.
I wouldn't subject myself to blind testing with many things in hi-fi as it is all quite subjective, but I would pick with almost 100% accuracy the difference between Nordost Flatline Gold vs. zip cord.
Regards,
Steve M.
Blind test, especially of the speaker cable or interconnect cable is quite simple.
Either you hear the difference or you don’t.
Clamming 100% accuracy while looking at the component is a bit childish. What’s the point of the test?
The claim here is that cord A sounds better then cord B. In the test, this would be the only component changed. What so difficult about it?
I have done double blind testing of interconnects and speaker cables. I’ve also compared bi-wire to a single wiring option.
You guys spend your money on whatever you want. It’s your rite and privilege.
I’d rather spend $ on better drivers.
Either you hear the difference or you don’t.
Clamming 100% accuracy while looking at the component is a bit childish. What’s the point of the test?
The claim here is that cord A sounds better then cord B. In the test, this would be the only component changed. What so difficult about it?
I have done double blind testing of interconnects and speaker cables. I’ve also compared bi-wire to a single wiring option.
You guys spend your money on whatever you want. It’s your rite and privilege.
I’d rather spend $ on better drivers.
Blind testing certainly doesn't matter in my books. If I think it sounds better and increaes my enjoyment then so be it, money well spent.
I'm not a believer in expensive cables, but well constructed DIY cables using good materials does make a good difference. Im using cheapy stranded ixos copper speaker cable and feel like a change, firstly just to build something as its been a while, and secondly my new amp is here this weekend so I can finally setup my system then fine tune it with a variety of cables.
I'm not a believer in expensive cables, but well constructed DIY cables using good materials does make a good difference. Im using cheapy stranded ixos copper speaker cable and feel like a change, firstly just to build something as its been a while, and secondly my new amp is here this weekend so I can finally setup my system then fine tune it with a variety of cables.
Member
Joined 2004
adfinni said:
OK more questions from me
1. Are you from Jantzen Audio, or are you a dealer?
2. By monometer, what do you mean. As in 1.93 euro for a metre of copper foil [without insulation]?
3. I have looked at the UK prices and they are over 600 pounds for a 660g inductor in silver which waaaaay outta my league. But there are soo many other different choices with various mH values which i don't even know what they are, let alone what would be suitable for me.
Im still interested in making x4 2m lengths to be used as speaker cable.
1. I am a dealer for Jantzen Audio coils and cables.
2. One meter = 1 piece off flat copper, with the black insulation as in the picture above.
3. It's copper foil, i do not have silver foil cable.
Regards
Roland
Member
Joined 2004
R-Carpenter said:
You guys spend your money on whatever you want. It’s your rite and privilege.
I’d rather spend $ on better drivers.
For me it seems logical to sell this foil cable. Some customers use copperfoil inductors and would like to use the same wire for internal wiring...
I do not have the idea these customers use cheaper drivers in their speakers to save up for this foil cable
Kind regards
Roland
The Mundorf silver foil is expensive enough... and I've not tried it. I made an interconnect with their copper foil and it's wonderful. I might try it for speaker cables at some point, but I worry about the durability.
For insulation I used tape, but I've also done some wire with PCB lacquer, which comes as a spray. This wire is in my pre-amp, singing away...
Simon
For insulation I used tape, but I've also done some wire with PCB lacquer, which comes as a spray. This wire is in my pre-amp, singing away...
Simon
I just built one pair of copper foil speaker cables and the result is impressive. Both the separated runs and laminated are tried in my system. The separated runs has a beautiful treble but the bass is somewhat soft and has less punch. The laminated positive/negative rails has a good control on the bass with a little cost of the treble.
The capacitance of the laminated cable (2m) is 4nF that is maybe somewhat high. I am trying to rebuild the cables for reducing the capacitance.
The capacitance of the laminated cable (2m) is 4nF that is maybe somewhat high. I am trying to rebuild the cables for reducing the capacitance.
In my opinion, the material of the tape is another critical factor of the foil cables. Allen Wright recommended Teflon tape in his cookbook and Teflon is expensive of course.
In addition, the material of the foil is of course also another critical factor. Someone reported the aluminum foil from the kitchen is not bad and Allen recommended the silver foil...
In addition, the material of the foil is of course also another critical factor. Someone reported the aluminum foil from the kitchen is not bad and Allen recommended the silver foil...
I'd dearly love to try silver foils. I'm very happy with a home-made copper-foil interconnect in my system. It slaughters, for example, Kimber Crystal-Cu, sounding purer and more neutral and natural. I can only imagine the stratospheric heights you'd reach (in cable terms lol) with pure silver foils...
I constructed copper foil ribbon speaker cables so I could hide them behind the floor molding and a door frame going between two rooms.
I purchased teflon plumber's pipe thread tape for the insulation around the copper foil, and polyester plastic packing tape as the exterior material. I first unrolled the plastic tape sticky-side-up on the foor and and stuck the teflon to this tape with the correct spacing. I stuck the top and bottom tapes together as I inserted the copper foil between the two teflon inlays. If you stick down the bottom tape to the right on the floor, and leave the top tape loose to the left on the floor, you can focus on the adhesion plus copper alignment as you pull the top tape onto the bottom tape. The polyester tape has not yellowed after 5 years, but the glue has begun to dry out at any edge that has been physically flexed many times.
I cannot hear any difference between these ribbon cables and 12 AWG multi-strand copper speaker interconnects. I currently only use modest cost ($10/30 feet) 12 AWG multi-strand copper speaker cables. I have one pair of speakers with "hot sizzle" DIY ribbon tweeters and I have found that MIT Music Hose speaker cable filters out most of the sizzle, so I believe some cables can help the sound on some speakers if you do not want to modify the crossover.
I purchased teflon plumber's pipe thread tape for the insulation around the copper foil, and polyester plastic packing tape as the exterior material. I first unrolled the plastic tape sticky-side-up on the foor and and stuck the teflon to this tape with the correct spacing. I stuck the top and bottom tapes together as I inserted the copper foil between the two teflon inlays. If you stick down the bottom tape to the right on the floor, and leave the top tape loose to the left on the floor, you can focus on the adhesion plus copper alignment as you pull the top tape onto the bottom tape. The polyester tape has not yellowed after 5 years, but the glue has begun to dry out at any edge that has been physically flexed many times.
I cannot hear any difference between these ribbon cables and 12 AWG multi-strand copper speaker interconnects. I currently only use modest cost ($10/30 feet) 12 AWG multi-strand copper speaker cables. I have one pair of speakers with "hot sizzle" DIY ribbon tweeters and I have found that MIT Music Hose speaker cable filters out most of the sizzle, so I believe some cables can help the sound on some speakers if you do not want to modify the crossover.
Marlowe,
I cannot really visualise what you meant by the above.
Your 2m foam tape =
1) 2 meter foam tape in terms of lenght, Or
2) 2 meter in terms of width Or
3) 2millimeter Or
4) are you actually referring to the brand 3M tape?
Assuming 2m = 2 meter:
1) Do you mean that you are stacking the rails (positive and negative) on top of each other by 2meters via the 2meter thick foam tape?
Or2) Are you separating the rails side by side (edge to edge) via a 2meter foam tape?
It will be best, if you can show me some pictures of it? Will you?
Hi fff0,
Your assumption is right. "2m" means the length of foam tape is two meters.
It is case 1, I have no pictures of the cables.
However, currently I made the two rails separated again and prefer them loosely paralleled. I am still looking for the better combination of the distance and the material between the two rails.
Your assumption is right. "2m" means the length of foam tape is two meters.
1) Do you mean that you are stacking the rails (positive and negative) on top of each other by 2meters via the 2meter thick foam tape?
2) Are you separating the rails side by side (edge to edge) via a 2meter foam tape?
It will be best, if you can show me some pictures of it? Will you?
It is case 1, I have no pictures of the cables.
However, currently I made the two rails separated again and prefer them loosely paralleled. I am still looking for the better combination of the distance and the material between the two rails.