Forced cooling a class A amp

The second experiment used the same fans with the airflow down into the chassis

Nice result. Smart design for the cooling circulation flow so the internal components get max cooling.

If you want some further experiment suggestions read on but otherwise ignore 🙂

1. Use some smoke (eg from an incense stick) to trace the air flow and see if hot air out of the fins is being sucked back into the fan intake. If it is a baffle on top for rear air intake might be an option that also shields the fan noise. A cardboard box taped on top would be a quick and easy mod.

2. It would also be easy and informative to cover one fan and measure the temperature increase. If the cooling limit is the volume air flow restriction out the bottom plate one fan might be enough.
 
What would be your best pick out of all these? I'm thinking of refilling some server heatsinks if they don't perform well enough with my new class b germanium amps as I wanna try the coolest setup possible
https://www.findthisbest.com/best-refrigerants
Unfortunately i always felt uneasy with picking up low noise fans...I don't know any that I can't hear in between two songs and lower speed fans efficiency needs some refrigerant help in my opinion although the good old natural convection through a 4 meter pipe looks bizarre enough for an all out audiophile approach.
 
I recently completed a repackaging of a SIT3X https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-sit-3x-amplifier.353999/ in a diyAudio Store 300mm 4U chassis.

With convection cooling of the heatsinks then amplifier runs too hot, having a temperature rise of about 37C at the desired rail voltage (-70V) and bias current 1.4A which dissipated 98W into each heatsink. The inside is like an oven. The heatsink temperature rise is .38C/W

I did some fan cooling experiments today:

The first experiment used a pair of Noctua NF-S12A FLX fans running at full speed. The top panel of the chassis was removed and a the fans were mounted to a thin fiberboard panel as shown with upward airflow as shown in the first image below. The result was a heatsink temperature rise is .29C/W.

The second experiment used the same fans with the airflow down into the chassis and a simple "duct work" to direct the air outward and up through the heatsink fins as shown in the drawing and the remaining images. The result was
a heatsink temperature rise is .20C/W.
I’ve used cpu cooler/Noctua fan combo’s on a few of my class A amp builds with a single or pair of output devices with excellent results. But, in my opinion, I could not get a satisfying cosmetic look with this setup. But your experiment here looks great! This setup could be made aesthetically pleasing and have the capability dissipate some serious watts. Thanks for sharing

:cheers:
 
Natural convection with these might be just as good as forced cooling...
 

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lhquam,

Nice work - the second approach you have taken by forcing the air up through the fins from beneath is an interesting one. As Vunce has mentioned, typical fan mounts don't always look the best, and it might be possible to achieve a more acceptable aesthetic by doing it this way.

Is there any audible fan noise and/or duct/port noise?
 
For my warmer amps, I use a couple fans blowing directly into the big sinks. Not exactly pretty, but very effective.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JLV4BWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are quiet and have rubber grommets on the corners.

I know they don’t need the extra cooling when there’s open air around the sinks, but I figure cooler temps equates to less stress on any components.

However, now that I think of it, my F5 was biased when everything was cooked in and stable after an hour or so with the sinks at ~ 50C… I guess I should forego the fans with the F5.
 

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Nice result. Smart design for the cooling circulation flow so the internal components get max cooling.

If you want some further experiment suggestions read on but otherwise ignore 🙂

1. Use some smoke (eg from an incense stick) to trace the air flow and see if hot air out of the fins is being sucked back into the fan intake. If it is a baffle on top for rear air intake might be an option that also shields the fan noise. A cardboard box taped on top would be a quick and easy mod.

2. It would also be easy and informative to cover one fan and measure the temperature increase. If the cooling limit is the volume air flow restriction out the bottom plate one fan might be enough.
1. I did a test directing the exhaust sideways and could not measure any difference in temperature.
2. I have not tested with one fan, but I have tested with the fan speeds reduced, which resulted in a temperature increase, due to the reduced volume of air per hour.
 

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Using the DYNACO Stereo 400 heatsinks with the fins facing down and the NOCTUA fans blowing into the tunnel makes for a SINGING BUSH which at best gets warm at the top (bottom in my case) of the fins.

Some real heat can be felt right next to the devices but not enough to not allow a finger to linger for as long as you are willing to hold it there Only right behind the devices is it HOT but I would think that is to be expected.

Using four amps I have to say four NOCTUAs are not silent even when slowed down but once the music plays they are inaudible. I sit about eight feet away from them,

I wonder if I will have to turn the fans up a bit for the Georgia summer? Might be a good time to build that fan controller ...
 
Nice result. Smart design for the cooling circulation flow so the internal components get max cooling.
...
1. Use some smoke (eg from an incense stick) to trace the air flow and see if hot air out of the fins is being sucked back into the fan intake. If it is a baffle on top for rear air intake might be an option that also shields the fan noise. A cardboard box taped on top would be a quick and easy mod.
...
I did some additional, more careful temperature measurements comparing upward exhaust vs. sideways exhaust and found that there was between 1 degree C and 2 degree C reduction in heatsink temperature with sideways exhaust. Not a lot or difference, but it does confirm a degree of mixing of the exhaust with the intake.
 
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I followed ihquam and did a similar experiment using my Pass M2 clone amp as the test platform. The chassis is a common size, Modushop 4U 300mm, this amp already has a PWM fan controller installed to power a small Noctua fan mounted on the Micro Audio SMPS.
I cut a piece of 3/16” plywood for the top cover, then cut a hole to mount a single Noctua NF-A20pwm fan. The fan is mounted to pull in air from the top. Baffles were made from cardboard to direct the air up through the heatsinks. The fan controller is adjusted to deliver 40% fan speed when max demand is called for.(Temperature sensor is mounted to SMPS transformer)
In stock form, the M2 heatsinks run 50°-52°C depending on ambient temperature.
After 2 hours this setup is running 40.5°C. Significant reduction in temperature!
A baking rack for a fan grill will keep my curious Labrador from getting her nose clipped :rofl:
 

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I've been using Fractal Design dynamic X2 GP-14 fans for many years. They fit nicely inside my amp, don't make any noise and blow air across the transformer. With the lid on, the temperature equilibrium is achieved after 20 min or so. This keeps the inside temperature under control during hot summer days. I turn them off during winter. The fans run on an external little linear 12V power supply.

.... the sole reason being 4A of quiescent current.

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