If money was no object or you are going to cross to subwoofers and not EQ the low end then there could be better choices in theory but I don't know of anybody who has actually built one yet to prove that they are superior.
I had a look at lots of drivers but the price goes up fast when you need 50 of them. The CSD plot of a driver will tell you a lot about how clean it will be, an important factor, the TC9 is very good in these.
Awesome, keep us posted. How much volume are you using per driver?
It appears you have the chamber perfed into five segments with each segment braced at 3/5. Given the 3.5" spacing, I hope the dividers have clearance for the backsides of the drivers. It's pretty tight in there.
Also glad you CNC'd it. Hand drilling 50 3" holes would be suicide on the wrist, and even a drill press would take forever and a day to finish. Good luck...
It appears you have the chamber perfed into five segments with each segment braced at 3/5. Given the 3.5" spacing, I hope the dividers have clearance for the backsides of the drivers. It's pretty tight in there.
Also glad you CNC'd it. Hand drilling 50 3" holes would be suicide on the wrist, and even a drill press would take forever and a day to finish. Good luck...
Thanks
The effective size of the enclosure is about 2L when the stuffing is taken into consideration and the Q of the test impedance measurements shows that reality is very similar to the simulations I did.
If it was bare then the size would be closer to 1.75L when the driver volume is accounted for.
Yes I do, I have an exact 3D model of the enclosure of which there are a few pictures posted on the first page. There is more space than you might think the dividers are 9mm thick.
None of this is an accident and a lot of thought and effort went into getting the dimensions correct, don't worry everything fits as it should
Not as bad as it might seem I bought a 3" holesaw when I planned to do all the work myself. After 25 years of drumming my wrists are pretty strong
It would have been tedious and the accuracy would have not has been as high. There were and are still plenty of repetitive jobs to be done.
Building a line array is no easy task however you do it.
I have been working on some of those boring and tedious jobs in the last few days. Preparing wiring for 50 drivers is very ordinary work, reminds me of a summer job I had in an electronics assembly factory.
The parallel wiring for the spine is fixed in place and the series strips have been prepared.
You can see I used a different glue method for the bottom one because the top one turned out to be a mess. It makes no difference and will be inside the speaker but still...
The parallel wiring for the spine is fixed in place and the series strips have been prepared.
You can see I used a different glue method for the bottom one because the top one turned out to be a mess. It makes no difference and will be inside the speaker but still...
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I'm also considering making a damping panel poster to go behind the couch here are a few contenders for the image.
Wave Rock, Western Australia
Vintgar Gorge, Slovenia
Mount Newman, Western Australia
Ayers Rock in the Rain, Northern Territory (pretty rare sight)
Cinque Terra, Italy
Wave Rock, Western Australia
Vintgar Gorge, Slovenia
Mount Newman, Western Australia
Ayers Rock in the Rain, Northern Territory (pretty rare sight)
Cinque Terra, Italy
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Good to see you've got the pieces nicely sized up. You're getting there...
My vote also goes for the Wave Rock.
The ND90-8 is only 82dB efficient and doesn't even quite reach 20kHz. The PS95-8 definately looks better IMO, but what do I know. No time to read the reviews either. Another note, the squarish frames of a driver allow it to be placed closer to one another. In this regard, the ND90 is better that the PS95. Probably another reason the TC9 are favored...
fluid, how does one go about obtaining a CSD plot? Can you do it with REW?
I don't like the ND90, better for low frequency but worse everywhere else. The PS95 is a nice looking driver but it is twice the price of the TC9 and not better in performance. The CTC will be a bit bigger, the frequency response is not as good and the x-max isn't huge but enough. I wouldn't choose either but a rear mounted line of PS95 would be very pretty with the copper phase plugs
In REW choose the waterfall tab and hit generate, gives you the same sort of view. Unless you gate out reflections (limiting low frequency resolution) or take an anechoic or quasi anechoic measurement most of what you see will be the room though.You can use the time range and window controls to view the parts you are looking for. Wesayso is the man to ask about early waterfall plots
Good to see you've got the pieces nicely sized up. You're getting there...
My vote also goes for the Wave Rock.
Thanks guys seems like wave rock is popular. I also took that picture with my better camera so it should still look good enlarged to size.
Wave rock seems fitting .
It reminds me of the beautiful pictures I've seen of the red cave slot canyon in Utah.
How awesome nature can be!
.It reminds me of the beautiful pictures I've seen of the red cave slot canyon in Utah.
How awesome nature can be!
Wave rock seems fitting
It reminds me of the beautiful pictures I've seen of the red cave slot canyon in Utah.
How awesome nature can be!
Those caves look amazing, another place to add to the list of places I would like to go.
Pretty good progress made today
I put some Kapton tape over the lever terminals to make sure they don't get loose over time
I cut the fibreglass to a template this time to make it more even throughout the cabinet
I recut the felt too for the same reason
No going back now the baffle is glued on!
I used some silicone glue on the dividers to take up the gap where the driver hole chamfers meet to keep the compartments separate
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Each post is a constant amazement... very professional work Fluid !
I enjoy every entry you post.
Do you start production after you finish these prototypes? And does your company have a network of dealers fro your speakers?
Thanks, I appreciate the support!
I can understand why Roger Russell set the price of the IDS-25 at $18,000, there is a lot of work in building a pair of these.
Huh? The Peerless TC9FD18-08 the OP used is currently $10.66 at PE.
https://www.parts-express.com/peerl...-3-1-2-full-range-paper-cone-woofer--264-1062
I bought a pair for testing and they sound very nice in a sealed enclosure. I swapped out the cheap GRS 3FR-4 drivers from my "birdhouse" speakers earlier tonight. Overall much smoother tonality, crisper highs, punchier bass, and didn't need the "smiley face" EQ treatment to sound good unlike a lot of budget full rangers, though a 6+ dB bass boost helps. I put in wads of poly stuffing to remove the "boxy" sound and permanently glued the drivers in place with superglue. The birdhouses are a bit smaller than ideal sealed enclosure so the low end could be improved slightly by using a bigger box, but this also helps with the power handling by preventing over-excursion.
More progress
The bases are finished, they look very nice and the grain has come out quite well, couldn't resist a little bit of branding
Lucky I did some tests of gluing the leather look fabric otherwise I might have ended up with a brown paper finish
It takes quite an amount of heat to reactivate the PVA, too much heat and the plastic melts or the glue goes straight through and adheres to the heat shield.
The second test was done with baking paper on top of the fabric and an old cotton T shirt to create a heat break. Getting the right amount of heat is tricky.
You can see in this image that some parts have suffered from the heat and the leather grain pattern has flattened. Not an issue cosmetically as it will be covered by the fabric sock but still I would prefer it to be as good as I can make it.
The bases are finished, they look very nice and the grain has come out quite well, couldn't resist a little bit of branding
Lucky I did some tests of gluing the leather look fabric otherwise I might have ended up with a brown paper finish
It takes quite an amount of heat to reactivate the PVA, too much heat and the plastic melts or the glue goes straight through and adheres to the heat shield.
The second test was done with baking paper on top of the fabric and an old cotton T shirt to create a heat break. Getting the right amount of heat is tricky.
You can see in this image that some parts have suffered from the heat and the leather grain pattern has flattened. Not an issue cosmetically as it will be covered by the fabric sock but still I would prefer it to be as good as I can make it.
