Hey I'm having trouble understanding exactly how I can control volume from my TV remote. I really wish TV's still had a volume controlled RCA analog output but here we are. I only have an optical out and HDMI ARC port. Is it possible to use one of those HDMI arc to analog audio converters so I can use the RCA output to my amplifier and control the volume with the TV's remote?
I guess I'll try one from Amazon so I can return it fairly easily if it doesn't work. I really hate newer TVs they force us into buying a crap sound bar or having to get a receiver and deal with a 2nd remote.
I have a TV and receiver (both the same brand - Sony - and with a 5.2 speaker setup), connected via ARC.
I'm not a very sophisticated user of the receiver's features, I admit, but I very, very rarely need to do anything with the receiver remote to the point where I leave the batteries out of it lest they leak. All normal features including turning power on / off all happens via the TV remote + ARC.
I appreciate this doesn't help given your current equipment, just saying.
I'm not a very sophisticated user of the receiver's features, I admit, but I very, very rarely need to do anything with the receiver remote to the point where I leave the batteries out of it lest they leak. All normal features including turning power on / off all happens via the TV remote + ARC.
I appreciate this doesn't help given your current equipment, just saying.
I know but I have 2 amplifiers that I made myself that only have RCA inputs and want to use them. Not really a fan of receivers and having somewhere to put it with its massive size and all the wires that go with it. They also don't put out anywhere near the power it says it does.
Yeah I get the problem (and yes, I'm pretty sure my cheap receiver can't put out its claimed 90+ watts if you actually drive all seven channels!).
I'm not sure there is a good solution for this though, even with an HDMI audio extractor. My understanding is that while volume can be controlled over HDMI that is sending volume commands to the connected equipment using the CEC protocol (every manufacturer has a trade name for CEC - Sony call it BRAVIA Sync or something like that). The audio stream itself does not change level with the TV's volume setting.
I'm not sure there is a good solution for this though, even with an HDMI audio extractor. My understanding is that while volume can be controlled over HDMI that is sending volume commands to the connected equipment using the CEC protocol (every manufacturer has a trade name for CEC - Sony call it BRAVIA Sync or something like that). The audio stream itself does not change level with the TV's volume setting.
Actually, no, I take it back -- it appears there are some extractors that claim to support volume control of the analog outputs via CEC. So if you can find one of those (and it works!) that's probably the way to go.
I have a similar issue with my TV. For me, the most important aspect of controlling TV volume is the ability to MUTE. The volume LEVEL is generally set-n-forget for most program material.
I was able to introduce a muting function as follows: Using the optical output from the TV, I first send that to a remote-controlled optical selector switch, with the output of the switch feeding a Topping DAC, and then to my preamp (which lacks remote control). To mute the signal, I merely select an unused input on the selector switch, and the audio goes away. To resume playing, I re-select the input that has the TV connected.
I realize this isn’t an exact answer to your dilemma, but perhaps is something for you to consider. Of course you will still need a way to control volume LEVEL, so if your amps lack a volume control, this won’t work for you.
BTW, I had no luck using an HDMI switch. I discovered these switches (or at least the one I purchased) cannot select an HDMI input unless there is an ACTIVE device connected to it. This feature ruined any ideas of using an HDMI switch to provide a muting function.
I was able to introduce a muting function as follows: Using the optical output from the TV, I first send that to a remote-controlled optical selector switch, with the output of the switch feeding a Topping DAC, and then to my preamp (which lacks remote control). To mute the signal, I merely select an unused input on the selector switch, and the audio goes away. To resume playing, I re-select the input that has the TV connected.
I realize this isn’t an exact answer to your dilemma, but perhaps is something for you to consider. Of course you will still need a way to control volume LEVEL, so if your amps lack a volume control, this won’t work for you.
BTW, I had no luck using an HDMI switch. I discovered these switches (or at least the one I purchased) cannot select an HDMI input unless there is an ACTIVE device connected to it. This feature ruined any ideas of using an HDMI switch to provide a muting function.
Try a WiiM Ultra. You can always return it if it doesn't work... and let us know how it went.
I haven't tried it as an HDMI-eARC interface yet... but the docs claim - as I read them- it will give you volume control. Set it up fixed volume so the eARC will control the volume.
I haven't tried it as an HDMI-eARC interface yet... but the docs claim - as I read them- it will give you volume control. Set it up fixed volume so the eARC will control the volume.
I recently bought {but have yet to integrate} this U9 Audio Extractor for a different reason -- I wanted to
transcode dolby ATMOS to stereo 'in realtime' rather than baking files stored on a media server. It
DOES have a 'headphone/RCA stereo output' { I dunno why an RCA stereo output is labelled 'headphone' ...
perhaps because it isn't a 'line level' output?} and takes an e-ARC input ... so theoretically that should
produce a TV volume controlled stereo signal ... I think.
I currently use a Roku Streambar as an audio 'system' for my EPSON LS-500 UST projector ... for the same
{remote volume} reason. While its marketed as a 'center channel' soundbar, its really just a dual driver box with
a tiny amp, and a streaming interface with apps. The Roku remote is a clear aesthetic 'step up' when
compared to the cluttered coffins marketed with most TV's.
So its usable for the application you're interested in, and worked previously on my ancient Sony 50" LEDTV.
Decent sound for a "tiny" box. Better than the built-in's, and blended without {noticeable} latency, even
viewing OTA channels.
transcode dolby ATMOS to stereo 'in realtime' rather than baking files stored on a media server. It
DOES have a 'headphone/RCA stereo output' { I dunno why an RCA stereo output is labelled 'headphone' ...
perhaps because it isn't a 'line level' output?} and takes an e-ARC input ... so theoretically that should
produce a TV volume controlled stereo signal ... I think.
I currently use a Roku Streambar as an audio 'system' for my EPSON LS-500 UST projector ... for the same
{remote volume} reason. While its marketed as a 'center channel' soundbar, its really just a dual driver box with
a tiny amp, and a streaming interface with apps. The Roku remote is a clear aesthetic 'step up' when
compared to the cluttered coffins marketed with most TV's.
So its usable for the application you're interested in, and worked previously on my ancient Sony 50" LEDTV.
Decent sound for a "tiny" box. Better than the built-in's, and blended without {noticeable} latency, even
viewing OTA channels.
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That looks like a 4 input KVM switch ( note the EDAD ) with an audio extractor. I don't see eARC to control the audio volume.
EDAD is just a means to simulate the end device of the HDMI connection. So if you are plugging several computers into the KVM switch, the source computers will still think the display is hooked up to it when you switch to a different source computer. If not, what would happen is that every time you switch the monitor from computer to computer, the PCs keep losing or gaining a monitor... which is PITA as then you have to reconfigure the display set up...
My KVM also does audio extraction and USB switching... it uses a mini "headphone" jack for it, but I've never tried it because my PCs don't put audio into the HDMI output (strictly a DP to HDMI connection ).
EDAD is just a means to simulate the end device of the HDMI connection. So if you are plugging several computers into the KVM switch, the source computers will still think the display is hooked up to it when you switch to a different source computer. If not, what would happen is that every time you switch the monitor from computer to computer, the PCs keep losing or gaining a monitor... which is PITA as then you have to reconfigure the display set up...
My KVM also does audio extraction and USB switching... it uses a mini "headphone" jack for it, but I've never tried it because my PCs don't put audio into the HDMI output (strictly a DP to HDMI connection ).
Tony,
There is an ARC signal lamp on the front of the unit. So "I think" it does eARC. YMMV.
Then there is the ad label:
There is an ARC signal lamp on the front of the unit. So "I think" it does eARC. YMMV.
Then there is the ad label:
U9 ViewHD HDMI 4x2 with Audio Extractor Matrix/Pre-Amplifier | HDMI 2.0 4K@60Hz | HDCP 2.2 | 18Gbps | HDR + Dolby Vision | ARC | Toslink & RCA L/R Audio Output | Model: UMT4X2A ...
I was hoping this would be a more clear cut answer although as most things audio/video there is never a strait forward answer. 😡 I watch streaming services like Netflix and am afraid that my TV won't output anything to the HDMI port when watching it. The biggest problem is while watching TV the commercials/ads are always much louder than the program I'm watching and making it worse each streaming service is louder or quieter than each other.
If you're watching Netflix or other streaming services on a smart TV I would expect the HDMI output from the TV will work fine. This is how we routinely watch TV (with audio from the Netflix or Hulu or whatever app running on the TV out via HDMI to the receiver), I would think it's how most people with a modern TV + a receiver or soundbar do it.
The other problems (volume imbalances between different content and different services) you have my sympathy 🙂
The other problems (volume imbalances between different content and different services) you have my sympathy 🙂
Ok good that's a relief! I've never gotten into the digital world I prefer the simplicity and sound of analog still. I have had a few older Sony and Yamaha receivers and they're great for surround sound but I mainly use my amplifier and speakers for music and TV is secondary.
If your TV outputs PCM over a coax line you can pull out a 2 channel audio from it. Our streams whatever it's tuned to.... ( smart TV ).. even Netflix (natively tuned) and the Rokus (via HDMI).
If you want it, it will also output the OTA Tablos... that's something... Tablos->ethernet->Roku->HDMI->TV->PCM coax->processor.
But if I want to watch Fox NFL in surround, I got one of the Tablos that also outputs via HDMI to the surround processor. Dolby surround.
Yes, it is complicated.
If you want it, it will also output the OTA Tablos... that's something... Tablos->ethernet->Roku->HDMI->TV->PCM coax->processor.
But if I want to watch Fox NFL in surround, I got one of the Tablos that also outputs via HDMI to the surround processor. Dolby surround.
Yes, it is complicated.
This here ($24 hdmi-arc receiver on Amazon, comes with headphone jack to RCA adapter cable) should work.
We are getting our TV sound through a HDMI-arc connected soundbar (from a different manufacturer than the TV), and power, mute and volume control via the TV remote work just fine.
Occasionally one of the TV apps (Netflix or Amazon) acts up (about once/week; I think the TV runs out of memory), or the sound disappears (very rarely), and either killing (forcing stop) the TV app (usually) or power cycling the TV (very rarely) will solve the problem. We almost never have to touch the soundbar remote, and if we do, it usually turns out that that was not the problem. All this to mean that I'm pretty confident there is a TV-remote-only solution for you, as long as your TV has a HDMI-arc output.
We are getting our TV sound through a HDMI-arc connected soundbar (from a different manufacturer than the TV), and power, mute and volume control via the TV remote work just fine.
Occasionally one of the TV apps (Netflix or Amazon) acts up (about once/week; I think the TV runs out of memory), or the sound disappears (very rarely), and either killing (forcing stop) the TV app (usually) or power cycling the TV (very rarely) will solve the problem. We almost never have to touch the soundbar remote, and if we do, it usually turns out that that was not the problem. All this to mean that I'm pretty confident there is a TV-remote-only solution for you, as long as your TV has a HDMI-arc output.
I would hope having a port labeled arc, seals the deal. Just hdmi could provide sound. Asking for ark specifically, seems like..
Watch the cheap converters. When reviewed, some are not just poor performers, but may actually have response curves that miss the bass reinforcement near completely. With so many no-name's out there, reviews are hard to search for. Being Amazons best selling and most reviewed can help find them, but in no way says they are good.
I look forward to seeing what people find that works. I have the cheapest of cheap, and it's basically dysfunctional. Though amazon love it. It's not hdmi though, so you won't buy by mistake
Watch the cheap converters. When reviewed, some are not just poor performers, but may actually have response curves that miss the bass reinforcement near completely. With so many no-name's out there, reviews are hard to search for. Being Amazons best selling and most reviewed can help find them, but in no way says they are good.
I look forward to seeing what people find that works. I have the cheapest of cheap, and it's basically dysfunctional. Though amazon love it. It's not hdmi though, so you won't buy by mistake
Gosh, under a tenner in the UK, and the ARC function can be switched on/off.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008627190066.html
This thread has woke me up a bit. I actually thought the optical and coaxial outputs were volume controlled. I just bought a DAC for a TV, that doesn't have hdmi. Oops.
I should get the £9 box myself. It's going to be terrible though. I think pessimism at this price point is acceptable 🙂
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008627190066.html
This thread has woke me up a bit. I actually thought the optical and coaxial outputs were volume controlled. I just bought a DAC for a TV, that doesn't have hdmi. Oops.
I should get the £9 box myself. It's going to be terrible though. I think pessimism at this price point is acceptable 🙂
IMO the device is quite simple as audio in ARC already is SPDIF. IMO it does not have to be terrible as it may be a direct passthrough. I wonder if the volume control via CEC also operates the SPDIF stream, or controls some built-in volume control feature of the internal DAC only.