Thanks for questioning my suggestions.
My goal is to design a tv-bench with integrated speakers. The tv-bench is supposed to be placed in a 30m2 big living room, so I guess the speaker drivers need to be able to play a little loud. I would also like to reach as low as 25-30Hz with the woofer. I would like the system to be a three way to able to reproduce good quality sound over the whole spectrum from 30 Hz to 20 kHz.
Here you can see how I plan to build the tv-bench and how I plan to integrate the drivers. The tweeter and mid will be placed on an angled surface in order to reach ear height at 4 meters. The woofer will be down facing since I am going to have acoustic transparent cloth in the front, I am afraid that the woofer will push a lot of air and cause the cloth to vibrate if the woofer was front facing.
Here are some pictures from my concept:
- Imgur: The magic of the Internet
- Imgur: The magic of the Internet
I have done some further investegation on the driver selection an stumbled across this concept from mr troels gravesen
- SBAcoustics 10
I think maybe choosing those three speaker drivers would suit me my concept well. What do you guys think? Here's link to the drivers Troels are using:
- http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SBA-10/TW29RN.pdf
- http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SBA-10/MW16P-8.pdf
- http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SBA-10/SB29NRX75-6.pdf
No problem.
I guess it needs to be made clear that Satori is the extremely high end, state of the art driver line from SB Acoustics designed by Ulrik Schmidt and Frank Nielsen (Lars Goller and a few others had some input as well), the engineers responsible for the Scanspeak Revelator series. They're manufactured in Indonesia to keep the cost down but are designed by some of the most well respected names in the industry.
Tang Band and Dayton are simply budget DIY drivers. The Tang Band is priced high because it's a full range driver.
All drivers are a balance of trade offs, designed to specialize in a certain area, typically a particular frequency range. A full range driver is a "Jack of All Trades, Master of None". It can't compete with a high end, purpose designed midrange.
28 Hz is a relatively low Fs. If it wasn't a great driver, I wouldn't have recommended it.
Thanks for asking.
I have some experience building speakers, but my strength lie at the woodworking and mechanical design - I am not so skilled at making crossovers and picking the correct speaker drivers.
Here's some pictures of my two builds and some words about them:
Speaker D1
- Imgur: The magic of the Internet
- Imgur: The magic of the Internet
This speaker is built out of ash. The speaker drivers I am using are Dayton Audio RS150 and Dayton Audio AMT2. I am using this amplifier to driver the system (Looking for a TPA3116D2.1-BT amplifier module? - SoundImports).
Speaker D2
- Imgur: The magic of the Internet
This speaker system is inspired by Bang & Olufsen Beosound 2. The cylinder speaker has three drivers, these are
- Tweeter: Dayton Audio DC28F
- Mid-range: Dayton Audio RS100
- Upper bass: Dayton Audio DS135
The cylinder is made purely out of 3D-printed PLA and play suprisingly well I must say. I can share the SPL curve later.
To give the system more bass I made an extra subwoofer inspired by this video:
- Mini Earthquake - an 8" cube of BASS - Free Plans - YouTube
I used the driver Tang Band W5-1138SM along with two passive radiators.
To drive the D2 speaker system I am using this amplifier (Looking for a TPA3116D2.1-BT amplifier module? - SoundImports). The woofer is made out of 19mm thick MDF.
Everybody: please let me know your thoughts about my previous builds
Thank you very much for your feedback! I will absolutely consider the drivers you picked.
I stumbled across this speaker and it looks like it fit both my design and my budget very well. What do you think about these drivers? SBAcoustics 10
First of all, nice work!Thanks for asking.
I have some experience building speakers, but my strength lie at the woodworking and mechanical design - I am not so skilled at making crossovers and picking the correct speaker drivers.
...
Everybody: please let me know your thoughts about my previous builds
Think we could help you with the electroacoustic part, but you'll have to be able to execute reliable (acoustic) measurements that can be used in design software like VituixCAD, Xsim or Boxsim. Personally, with focus on an expensive 3-way system, I wouldn't fall back on tracing datasheets.
Like already mentioned the TangBand is not ideal for a 3-way, it's designed as a full-range.
Based on your choice for a 12" woofer, these look great:
12″ SB34NRXL75-8 / Norex
6″ SB17CRC35-8 / Carbon
6½″ SATORI MR16P-8 / Paper
6½″ SATORI MW16P-8
Viawave SRT-7 ribbon
BlieSMa T25B-6
BlieSMa T34B
Based on your choice for a 12" woofer, these look great:
12″ SB34NRXL75-8 / Norex
6″ SB17CRC35-8 / Carbon
6½″ SATORI MR16P-8 / Paper
6½″ SATORI MW16P-8
Viawave SRT-7 ribbon
BlieSMa T25B-6
BlieSMa T34B
Allright, I understand. I am familiar with VituixCAD and with measuring speakers and correcting the accordingly.
What I basically need help with is to pick three drivers which fits well together? As mentioned previously the setup from Troels Gravesens SB Acoustic 10 looks very tempting to go for. Any other suggestions that might be an better option?
Thank you! The 12-inch there looks promising. How do you think that one goes along with the MW16P-8?
Your TV stand will provide mono sound if I'm understanding the concept ? Sort of like a large TV speaker. Offset to the side like it is the voices would be disconnected from the picture on the screen. You would like either centering the sound or using at least stereo (speaker each side) much more.
Ear height at 4 meters would be over 13 feet in the air. I'll take that to mean 4 feet.
Your thinking is right that you could play much louder than the TV though.
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The dedicated midrange MR16P-8 is a better match in a 3-way with the 12″ SB34NRXL75-8.
The sensitivity of the midrange matches the 12" woofer with BSC (about 3db BSC).
Although this is less of a concern when going active with a Hypex FA123.
The Sd cone area of a 12" woofer and a 6.5" inch mid are OK, I wouldn't use a smaller mid than 6" with a large woofer.
All drivers are 8ohm, this will releave some stress on the amplifiers (= less amplifier distortion)
All seems good
My recommendation is not to use this project with the placement of the speakers in a common closet. You will have problems with the vibrations from the subwoofer and it is also not good for the midrange and tweeter to be so low, even inclined ... I had a bad experience with such a cabinet, where only the subwoofer was built and even 36mm walls failed to tame the used Peerless XLS sub. Worse - in my case the cabinet was mounted only on the wall without legs below and this further worsened the result and in your case you can make a strong and heavy box to prevent this, but even this is not good idea...
Thanks for your feedback!
No, I plan to have speakers in both enclosures, I was just not hiding the front plate in the one to the right. See here to see both speaker setup - this will result in a stereo setup. (Imgur: The magic of the Internet)
See here at this picture what I mean by ear height at 4 meters from the tv-bench. (Imgur: The magic of the Internet)
Do you still have concerns about this design?
The dedicated midrange MR16P-8 is a better match in a 3-way with the 12″ SB34NRXL75-8.
The sensitivity of the midrange matches the 12" woofer with BSC (about 3db BSC).
Although this is less of a concern when going active with a Hypex FA123.
The Sd cone area of a 12" woofer and a 6.5" inch mid are OK, I wouldn't use a smaller mid than 6" with a large woofer.
All drivers are 8ohm, this will releave some stress on the amplifiers (= less amplifier distortion)
All seems good
Ok, thanks for your feedback! Much appreciated
Why dont you think it's a good idea to make it like this? I am going to make the tv-bench all by myself, in my opinion it will just be a regular speaker, except that the woofer box is going to be on the side of the mid and tweeter instead of below. Or am I missing something here?
You also mention that have the mid and tweeter low is a proble, even inclined, why is this? I dont understand the problem with doing this. By having an incline I will reach ear height perfectly at 4 meters from the speaker. (Imgur: The magic of the Internet)
Looking forward hearing from you.
Look at the "Travelers" speaker and its drivers.
The Travelers Loudspeaker Kit - Meniscus Audio
High quality drivers that don't cost a fortune, and great sound. You could develop your own digital x-over.
The Travelers Loudspeaker Kit - Meniscus Audio
High quality drivers that don't cost a fortune, and great sound. You could develop your own digital x-over.