Just one trigger to the "power " get's all this started. And ... just the "rail sense"
is required to bench test ?
I'll fire it up again in few minutes . Recheck voltages / semi's - I measured every
passive / semi before I stuffed , I can't imagine an error - but ..it's possible.
I'm putting the VAS semi's in my amps now..
Ohh - I was frustrated last night.
OS
is required to bench test ?
I'll fire it up again in few minutes . Recheck voltages / semi's - I measured every
passive / semi before I stuffed , I can't imagine an error - but ..it's possible.
I'm putting the VAS semi's in my amps now..
Ohh - I was frustrated last night.
OS
Even just jumpering power without rails should get it lit. It would show DC offset after the relay cycles. It might be nice hook up relays or LEDs so you can see relay output operation. Bias doesn't need to be connected. I don't think I ever tried mine without the temp sensing transistors but if they are needed it should still run the whole power up cycle, then flash an error.
You mean "start input -power" needs to be hard jumpered ? Not just a momentary
connection ?
OS
Tauro, many thanks for the info - I also didn't know about CH340 "specialty" and had connectivity problem on one of my PCs.
Now I understand why
Cheers,
Valery
Both up / or both down - same direction. Across the 7" dimension.
Nope , tubes =1 , I will do tubes=0.....to speed things up.
Im tacking led's+ resistors on the relay outputs now (power/ inrush). With just the 2 small relay's on the 7812 gets warm. No big ones yet (need the plate - HS).
OS
Yep, you can also adjust the delays up to your taste, making them shorter if your amp settles quicker. FYI - according to the algorithm, it starts checking DC offset right after "speakersDelay" is over, before connecting the speakers. If DC is still there at that point, it will shut down the amp, not even trying to connect the speakers. We like our speakers
Cycled through "inrush" - "power" - and then the speaker relays in 15sec.
Sketch took <1 sec to upload.
Touching the empty cap pads at the analog DC detect tripped it - so that works, too.
Any clone that uses a 14xx usb/serial IC is the CH340 driver. Any clone that uses
a pirated FTDI-232 (28pin) - only use the <2013 or older driver. New FTDI driver
will "brick" it in the registry.
OS
Sketch took <1 sec to upload.
Touching the empty cap pads at the analog DC detect tripped it - so that works, too.
Any clone that uses a 14xx usb/serial IC is the CH340 driver. Any clone that uses
a pirated FTDI-232 (28pin) - only use the <2013 or older driver. New FTDI driver
will "brick" it in the registry.
OS
My next version of the board just uses the microcontroler from a Uno so no relying on flaky Chinese knock offs. You just need one good Uno to use as a programmer.
I thought it was truly amazing that the driver programmers could program a
check sequence into the software to actually confirm the timing of the hardware
(USB IC). The 232 is EVERYWHERE (mp3 players - most mobile devices)
big $$$ !!
But it is not a physical hardware "bricking". If you did this , you could just find
the reg key and reset it. Put the old drivers back on. Power to the pirate ??
PS _ they better not "hack" my amp ... ha ha.
OS
I don't think you can really call it pirating if they make it open source and release schematics for it. The whole concept was to make it non profit and easily available to everyone so they could learn to program.I doubt anyone is getting rich selling them for $3 including shipping. Personally I think it's pretty low bricking some poor kids new toy.
All those troubles for NOTHING!
Received A REAL Arduino. If it were not for china "shortcuts" - cheap ....
I would of not spent a night cursing the arduino.
Mouser sells the real McCoy. Blue power LED (yellow/red/orange -boot/RX/TX).
Load a script /sketch to this baby in under 1/4 sec.
The chinese one was flaky , needed to switch com ports each time you hooked it up.
Most likely a driver issue. Same upload was >1 sec on the chinese CH340 usb.
The Mouser genuine Arduini.cc 3.1 has the FTDI232 usb conv.. Instant detect
, faster upload - load as many scripts as you like .... NO issues.
With this genuine part - this would of been a hassle-free JOY to build.
PS -I even figured out how "swap" power/ inrush for the relay wiring update.
OS
Received A REAL Arduino. If it were not for china "shortcuts" - cheap ....
I would of not spent a night cursing the arduino.
Mouser sells the real McCoy. Blue power LED (yellow/red/orange -boot/RX/TX).
Load a script /sketch to this baby in under 1/4 sec.
The chinese one was flaky , needed to switch com ports each time you hooked it up.
Most likely a driver issue. Same upload was >1 sec on the chinese CH340 usb.
The Mouser genuine Arduini.cc 3.1 has the FTDI232 usb conv.. Instant detect
, faster upload - load as many scripts as you like .... NO issues.
With this genuine part - this would of been a hassle-free JOY to build.
PS -I even figured out how "swap" power/ inrush for the relay wiring update
.OS