The Sainsmart version comes with the headers already installed and a programming cable and breadboard jumpers for half the money. It uses the FTDI232 chip as well. My cheapo Chinese one programmed perfectly for me first try. I use this computer for programming just about everything so I may have gotten lucky and had a good driver on it already. I gave Jason one of these too. I'm curious to see if he has any issues.
There are no real issues with the "pirated" one ... really. I'm sure it would of worked
well - it does ....
But here are the differences.
Mouser arduino -
- better decoupling/power supply (this is also different).
2 more caps/separate RX/TX buffer.
-much faster RX/TX.
- driver = from the arduino software package (old FTDI driver) , new FTDI driver ..... and get this - WIN7 detects it with no 3rd party driver , driver is native to windows itself - even sets up a virtual com.
I read that window update itself can "brick" a fake 232.
Cool , huh.
For my wheelchair / oxygen - life sustaining systems , I think I would want the
mouser one.
I'm not complaining about the first one - no way , but it seems to be inferior.
The indicator LED hooked to it even flashes stronger.
OS
well - it does ....
But here are the differences.
Mouser arduino -
- better decoupling/power supply (this is also different).
2 more caps/separate RX/TX buffer.
-much faster RX/TX.
- driver = from the arduino software package (old FTDI driver) , new FTDI driver ..... and get this - WIN7 detects it with no 3rd party driver , driver is native to windows itself - even sets up a virtual com.
I read that window update itself can "brick" a fake 232.
Cool , huh.
For my wheelchair / oxygen - life sustaining systems , I think I would want the
mouser one.
I'm not complaining about the first one - no way , but it seems to be inferior.
The indicator LED hooked to it even flashes stronger.
OS
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The China one is definitely crap. That's why it's $3 with shipping. Once it's programmed it's running on the same 328 chip. As long as the oscillator circuit doesn't crap out it should be the same. My next version of the board will eliminate all these issues. It'll be running on a pdip Atmega328 chip. No relying on ready built modules. Programming will be done by plugging it into a UNO.
I did not mention that a "Normal" (paying) M$ customer will most likely
have no issues. I think a presently updated W7 has both CH340/ftdi232 drivers
present. The only issue would be a arduino owner who has a fake 232 , the updated
windows would disable it.
My windows will not update (you know why) ... that was my unique issue.
ps - but I now know the reg key to "unbrick" - so I have it "aced" !
OS
have no issues. I think a presently updated W7 has both CH340/ftdi232 drivers
present. The only issue would be a arduino owner who has a fake 232 , the updated
windows would disable it.
My windows will not update (you know why
) ... that was my unique issue.ps - but I now know the reg key to "unbrick" - so I have it "aced" !
OS
Real board test ....
OK ,
Did the recommended updates as Jwilhelm suggests -- bridge trafo secondary and
chassis mount the 7812 regulator. Trafo barely gets perceivedly warm and the
7812 just makes 1/2 the aluminum plate slightly warm with all 4 relays on.
Triggered the thermo , overload , rail sense , and AC - all works.
Start- up of INRUSH - main AC - Speakers - OK.
Adjusted ms timings to 5000/
5000 , a shortened inrush to AC delay and a longer AC to speaker delay.
I have this PS wired to be able to turn off the inrush delay after the "AC" initiates.
I'm not quite sure where/what to insert a line of code into the script to do this.
It would also be good to "overlap" the timings of the 2 relays (just in case
there was a highly biased load present.
How would you do this , Val ????
PS - I can "verbosely:" see my relay states with the neon and green led at the front
of the photo. I have a temporary 8200u/100v X 2 cap bank to test @ +/-76V.
The 1 kv trafo will trip the house breaker without the inrush - one massive block
of copper / ferrite - thanks.
Excellent design ... Val , it works better than I anticipated !
OS
OK ,
Did the recommended updates as Jwilhelm suggests -- bridge trafo secondary and
chassis mount the 7812 regulator. Trafo barely gets perceivedly warm and the
7812 just makes 1/2 the aluminum plate slightly warm with all 4 relays on.
Triggered the thermo , overload , rail sense , and AC - all works.
Start- up of INRUSH - main AC - Speakers - OK.
Adjusted ms timings to 5000/
5000 , a shortened inrush to AC delay and a longer AC to speaker delay.
I have this PS wired to be able to turn off the inrush delay after the "AC" initiates.
I'm not quite sure where/what to insert a line of code into the script to do this.
It would also be good to "overlap" the timings of the 2 relays (just in case
there was a highly biased load present.
How would you do this , Val ????
PS - I can "verbosely:" see my relay states with the neon and green led at the front
of the photo.
I have a temporary 8200u/100v X 2 cap bank to test @ +/-76V.The 1 kv trafo will trip the house breaker without the inrush - one massive block
of copper / ferrite - thanks.
Excellent design ... Val , it works better than I anticipated !
OS
Attachments
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OK ,
Did the recommended updates as Jwilhelm suggests -- bridge trafo secondary and
chassis mount the 7812 regulator. Trafo barely gets perceivedly warm and the
7812 just makes 1/2 the aluminum plate slightly warm with all 4 relays on.
Triggered the thermo , overload , rail sense , and AC - all works.
Start- up of INRUSH - main AC - Speakers - OK.
Adjusted ms timings to 5000/
5000 , a shortened inrush to AC delay and a longer AC to speaker delay.
I have this PS wired to be able to turn off the inrush delay after the "AC" initiates.
I'm not quite sure where/what to insert a line of code into the script to do this.
It would also be good to "overlap" the timings of the 2 relays (just in case
there was a highly biased load present.
How would you do this , Val ????
PS - I can "verbosely:" see my relay states with the neon and green led at the front
of the photo.
The 1 kv trafo will trip the house breaker without the inrush - one massive block
of copper / ferrite - thanks.
Excellent design ... Val , it works better than I anticipated !
OS
Hi OS, thanks for the feedback
I initially designed it for my own use, so, you know, I tried to do it well... just joking
Pls. drop your email in my PM - I'll send you an updated firmware with inrush switch-off and overlap management.
Cheers,
Valery
Nope , I thought of that .. too. Even that would not make BOTH relays turn off
8.5 seconds into the loop. If either stayed on , there would be no "ac failure" , correct?
OS
AC failure doesn't make sense physically. It senses AC off the 12 volt transformer on the protection board.
This is what happens every time I try to adjust code myself.
AC failure doesn't make sense physically. It senses AC off the 12 volt transformer on the protection board.
This is what happens every time I try to adjust code myself.
Yes , control board is always powered.
But that is what the PDF flash code specifies (1 flash /2 sec = AC)
.It might mean "AC relay" off ??
OS
AC failure doesn't make sense physically. It senses AC off the 12 volt transformer on the protection board.
This is what happens every time I try to adjust code myself.
It may be the case, is something shortens the mains, so that the small protection transformer suffers as well
Yes , control board is always powered.
But that is what the PDF flash code specifies (1 flash /2 sec = AC)
It might mean "AC relay" off ??
OS
Maybe lengthen the inrush delay. I wonder if you're browning out. Or use a separate power source for your transformer.
If you're sure that it's really PowerOn relay that goes off, while Inrush stays on, you can change the ID in the code (digitalWrite(PowerOn, LOW)), so that the new part of code will look like:
if (overlapValue > 0) {
if (currentMillis - previousMillis > overlapDelay) {
digitalWrite(PowerOn, LOW); // Inrush relay goes off
overlapValue = 0; // Stop checking overlap
}
}
if (overlapValue > 0) {
if (currentMillis - previousMillis > overlapDelay) {
digitalWrite(PowerOn, LOW); // Inrush relay goes off
overlapValue = 0; // Stop checking overlap
}
}
It may be the case, is something shortens the mains, so that the small protection transformer suffers as well
ROCK steady 121V - all through the cycle.
Ahh - fixed it. It was script related.
Commenting the last 2 makes it work as it should (with the mS overlap).
Perfect 5000mS inrush , 250ms overlap and , 4500ms till speaker (timed it).
ALL fault triggers work.
Edit - V5 had these commented , V6 uncommented.
OS
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I think both relays are shutting off on him, not just one. He's getting AC failure shutdown.