Back again
You're right - quick interrupt, or some sort of quick bounce of ac will shut the amp down, indicating AS Failure. Longer interrupt will lead to Arduino restart, initiating the soft-start sequence again.
With regards to unbricking.
First of all - see the driver version you've got now.
Device manager, right-click on your controller port, "Properties" -> Driver tab.
If it shows 2.12.0.0 - that's the latest "killing" one.
On the Details tab select "Hardware Ids" - if it shows PID_0000 in the end - it's already "killed". The driver really re-writes PID in the chip's EPROM. Correct PID is 6001.
I have 2.08 driver /PID 6001 , still does not work.
But , I have the CH340 one. Might be better to get a couple ch340- 3$ asian
"knockoffs". Heck with FTDI and their "fascist" driver mess
.PS -I'll still try to see if it is bricked with your software - why shelve it ??
Edit - 2.8.24 driver - exactly. But I have had other drivers and uninstalled (including
the 2.12 "fascist" driver).
OS
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Now it's time to re-write the EPROM.
Start MProg utility.
In its menu, "Tools", "Read and Parse"
With the "bricked" chip, it will show Product ID = 0000.
Change it to 6001.
Then "File", "Save As" and save under some name.
Then "Device", "Program" - this will re-write the EPROM with correct PID and show the serial number.
Just to check everything is ok - "Tools", "Read". You will see the dump in the window and correct PID (6001) in Product ID field.
It's unbricked now
Start MProg utility.
In its menu, "Tools", "Read and Parse"
With the "bricked" chip, it will show Product ID = 0000.
Change it to 6001.
Then "File", "Save As" and save under some name.
Then "Device", "Program" - this will re-write the EPROM with correct PID and show the serial number.
Just to check everything is ok - "Tools", "Read". You will see the dump in the window and correct PID (6001) in Product ID field.
It's unbricked now
Hey , val ! Could you not convert the unused preheating relay output into a
cooling fan output triggered by the thermal alarm.
Combine that with " Stop_on_Overheat(); after X milliseconds to allow the fan to try
to cool things down. This would be a good feature to attract the 'powermonger"
crowd (class H junkies) .
OS
cooling fan output triggered by the thermal alarm.
Combine that with " Stop_on_Overheat(); after X milliseconds to allow the fan to try
to cool things down. This would be a good feature to attract the 'powermonger"
crowd (class H junkies)
.OS
Now it's time to re-write the EPROM.
Start MProg utility.
In its menu, "Tools", "Read and Parse"
With the "bricked" chip, it will show Product ID = 0000.
Change it to 6001.
Then "File", "Save As" and save under some name.
Then "Device", "Program" - this will re-write the EPROM with correct PID and show the serial number.
Just to check everything is ok - "Tools", "Read". You will see the dump in the window and correct PID (6001) in Product ID field.
It's unbricked now
With the "Mprog" software ... I could at least see if communication can
be established with the FTDI 232.
OS
Hey , val ! Could you not convert the unused preheating relay output into a
cooling fan output triggered by the thermal alarm.
Combine that with " Stop_on_Overheat(); after X milliseconds to allow the fan to try
to cool things down. This would be a good feature to attract the 'powermonger"
crowd (class H junkies)
OS
I'm thinking of liquid cooling a few channels for my theater system. There's still a few unused pins on the Arduino that could run the Glycol pumps and fans. Maybe I should connect those pins to the spare UL2001 inputs on the next version for future expansion possibilities.
Just run all the unused arduino outputs to a buffered IC output or 2n5551-ksa1845.
Then any of the monitored functions can be scripted to these. Multiple or dual color
led. (Actually the preheating output could be second color in a bi-color setup) ,
your pumps / fans - anything can be scripted to react in any order /timing to
the analog inputs.
PS - I'm on "high ground" now ... I actually do have the preheat reassigned ,
(and it works). VERY easy scripting - my "redneck" thought -train
"reckoned" it in no time.
OS
Then any of the monitored functions can be scripted to these. Multiple or dual color
led. (Actually the preheating output could be second color in a bi-color setup) ,
your pumps / fans - anything can be scripted to react in any order /timing to
the analog inputs.
PS - I'm on "high ground" now ... I actually do have the preheat reassigned ,
(and it works). VERY easy scripting - my "redneck" thought -train
"reckoned" it in no time.
OS
No actual trace mods (besides the parallel trafo secondary) , just value changes -
(470k-220K = R8/9) and .22u =C1 (stops false triggering).
I'm using 5K ms inrush , 1K ms overlap , and 4.5K ms - to speaker ...relay timings.
This is with 32Kuf capacitance .. the 5 K inrush should be good enough for
81K uf (my final PS).Left it on overnight - abused things nicely (a nice spark)
All is VERY finalized.
PS - final overcurrent and thermal values might be "tweaked" - but no trace
changes.
On to the AMPS - to finalize the "merger" of the 2 .OS
Just a idea ... leave a couple arduino outputs unbuffered (raw) with a pullup resistor.
This will allow for PWM control of external "modules" (higher current buffered
PWM fan controllers) - or similar contraptions.
(below) for a BIG fan ....
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Its probably just as easy to design a standalone board for for fan controls. Temp sensors connected to the analogue inputs would likely be more desirable. This board is pretty compacted. There's no way to get any more outputs to a connector without a major overhaul. I've managed to add two buffered outputs but I think that's about all I can squeeze and at that it will be sharing one 12V output for all the relays.
Thats what I meant ... just output the "raw" arduino PWM. A few big delta
120mm fans can draw 2A+ (and cut yer fingers) - they would need an
external supply ... regardless.
Also , someone who just wanted a fancy 3 color alarm led could use that
same output with a simple script change.
PS - pins 17-20 (references and 2 analog inputs) would be a good trade for a couple
outputs. There is your analog monitoring.
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But I'll be listening by Xmas - I'll jury rig my 2 pair 8200uF's to power the slew's
(for now). Time to tap them heatsinks. I have fried NOTHING yet !
PS - you did the big orphan one ? - only val's 35 X 50mm caps can fit.
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But I'll be listening by Xmas - I'll jury rig my 2 pair 8200uF's to power the slew's
(for now). Time to tap them heatsinks. I have fried NOTHING yet !
PS - you did the big orphan one ? - only val's 35 X 50mm caps can fit.
OS
Big one is coming too.
Wow some nice protect boards, I will have to spend some time and update my one.
This is one I've been using for the last couple of years. It only has ac detect, dc detect, softstart, and output control to eliminate on off 'plop' on output.
Some things I want to add, is short circuit protect and an option for temperature/fan control. Even if I'm not using fans in my amp at the moment.
Following thread, great stuff.
This is one I've been using for the last couple of years. It only has ac detect, dc detect, softstart, and output control to eliminate on off 'plop' on output.
Some things I want to add, is short circuit protect and an option for temperature/fan control. Even if I'm not using fans in my amp at the moment.
Following thread, great stuff.
