JLH 10 Watt class A amplifier

Thought I might as well post a picture of the power supply (I probably posted it earlier too). Not living-room friendly. Transformer primaries are in series, secondaries in parallel after rectification with a small amount of resistance to balance the load a bit.
Caps are 68000 uF each.
 

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Going from memory (the amp isn't hooked up at the moment) I am running it at about 1.5 amps bias per channel at around 25Vx2, so 75 watts per channel; 150 total. The thermal cutout is a standard device you can get from Digikey or wherever. My power supply was controlled by a relay that was disconnected when the thermal cutout, well, cuts out.
I got my PCBs from Olimex using a design from Geoff Moss (the Class-A amp site guy). I still have the Gerbers etc. if you want:
JLH-2005 – NOTES

If you're still following this thread Geoff thanks once again. Once I find some more space I'll be setting up the amp again. Maybe some repackaging along the lines that Andrew suggested, or fanless.

Paulb,

Thanks you for the info. Wow, the caps for your PSU are quite huge. I was planning to use 6 x 12000 uf per channel only, looks like I better get bigger cans.

Regards
 
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Hi, John,

The ESL panels look really sharp. Did you actually fabricate them or you assembled them from purchased parts? Was that a pair Magnepan behind the ESL panels? My current main speakers are a pair Eminent Tech planar magnetic panels too. Hey, the JLH amp fit right in with the rest of your gear!!;)

Regards
 
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Hey Lo (??),

Yes, the speakers in back are my Magnepan Tympani IVa. Ones in front are the ESLs - Martin Logan CLS Panels (I bought off a member here), with new home built Bias/stepup transformer...

I have to say the ESLs sound very nice with the High Power JLH from 250hz and up. Vocal, guitar, percussion clarity is amazing. I am using the Tympani Bass Panels with the ML CLS and they mesh perfectly...even the wife was amazed (and that never, ever happens).

Your ETs should sound nice. If, per chance, your not happy, try the JLH on your ET's from 250hz and up, and make up the low end with another speaker/amp, and you should be more happy...
 
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Initial impression- The sound is not as good as the BJT version. :(

Recently I built another JLH with lateral FETs. This time with single supply, capacitor coupled output and bootstrap current source. Thus ending up with a truly simpler circuit than before with excellent results.

1. Silent turn-on and turn-off.
2. Iq rises quickly to preset value and decreases about 100mA after warm-up(at 1.7A).
3. Mild hum at speaker with Iq less than 800mA, no hum with Iq more than 1A. (!?)
4. No noise or any audible artifacts.
5. Drives my 4ohm sub with ease, bass is superb.(with 100uF feedback cap)
6. Sounds open and clean, but different than my BJT JLH. Vocals and highs are clean and brighter even at high volume, unlike a BJT JLH. Sounds less "warm" than the original JLH and more "crispy", like a symmetrical amplifier, but in no way boring or tiring, no fatigue after 4-5 hours of listening. Also, response to volume knob turning seems more accurate.
7. Love its music, a new JLH with a new sonic signature!

P.S.: R8 seems unnecessary but adding it resulted in increased linearity as the output approaches positive rail and better positive clipping. I noticed considerable reduction in even harmonics after adding it to the circuit. Calculated distortion is 0.2% without R8 and 0.08% with R8 at 12VPP into 8.2ohm load. Of course R4 needs to be doubled when R8 is removed, in order to maintain the same Iq.

P.P.S: I'm discovering a new JLH almost every month! Let's see what's next.

P.P.P.S: Circuit is powered from a 160VA transformer with simple 35A bridge followed by 15000uF+1ohm+15000uF in pi config.
 

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With 1.5A Iq, THD is lowest when R3=R8/2. Especially the even order harmonics. This does NOT happen when I remove R8.
This even harmonic cancellation mechanism is unknown to me. I wonder If some kind soul will teach me. I played with the values of these resistors and observed the results, built the circuit, played some music and it sounded like an amp with dominant odd harmonics. To me it sounds very good but also very different from the '69 or '96 JLH.
 

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When R8 is a shunt regulator that enforces the rule of equal and
opposite output currents, R8 is always whatever it needs to be.
R3 is still essential to keep Q4 turned on somewhat at all times.

In class A configuration, the purpose of these resistors is not to
turn off Q2 and Q3. OK maybe with a MOSFET for Q3 it is... BJT
for Q3 would not care, so with BJT it is only for Q4's happiness.

Even with a shunt, sometimes you want real resistor R8 in parallel.
A shunt reg for R8 could turn off in extreme case of hard clipping.
And then, what is to turn off the top transistor??? So if you are
not using any sort of clip management, you probably need an R8
and Zener if MOSFET too... 40V+40V pullup hazard on that gate.
 
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