Hi Guys
I'm finally back.... Now got a 63
So far i've fitted power supply caps as per ray's page i'm missing the 3300 at 814 and only had 6 useable shottys they went in 801-04 + DN01/02
I fitted HA op amps with 220 BGs at 611-614 also removed CD04/07/15/16
I fitted 220 BGs at CD05/06/12/13 and bypassed HDAM
Compared to the results on the 67 this player is dull!! It sounds veiled, is that down to using 220s/
The 1st set of BGs have been burning for 4 days solid, the rest only 24hrs
As usual any replies welcome
Cheers all Ian
I'm finally back.... Now got a 63
So far i've fitted power supply caps as per ray's page i'm missing the 3300 at 814 and only had 6 useable shottys they went in 801-04 + DN01/02
I fitted HA op amps with 220 BGs at 611-614 also removed CD04/07/15/16
I fitted 220 BGs at CD05/06/12/13 and bypassed HDAM
Compared to the results on the 67 this player is dull!! It sounds veiled, is that down to using 220s/
The 1st set of BGs have been burning for 4 days solid, the rest only 24hrs
As usual any replies welcome
Cheers all Ian
Hi Ian,
I think that's because the CD63 isn't quite as good as the CD67 in stock form. The CD63 needs the servo reclocking before the huge detail is revealed. With this done the CD67 can't touch it.
That said, with what you've done it shouldn't be dull, maybe just a bit lacklustre and missing some information compared to a first rate player. Is there a problem elsewhere in the system?
Simon
I think that's because the CD63 isn't quite as good as the CD67 in stock form. The CD63 needs the servo reclocking before the huge detail is revealed. With this done the CD67 can't touch it.
That said, with what you've done it shouldn't be dull, maybe just a bit lacklustre and missing some information compared to a first rate player. Is there a problem elsewhere in the system?
Simon
Hi guys,
for the 6/7V DC at the DOS, what is the minimum value for the output cap? Does the last R to ground resistor value has any impact on music? I mean it's 470k in Ray's ready to order sheet associated to some 100µF BGN there.
These monster 10µF are huge and it seems that here as we have many frequencies the best is to do some sandwich of caps, like a 6.8µF K75-10 then a 1µF K40Y-9 then a... yes of course Ricardo, a 0.022µF FT-1 Teflon ( have it and don't want to buy .1 FT-3
).
Matthieu
for the 6/7V DC at the DOS, what is the minimum value for the output cap? Does the last R to ground resistor value has any impact on music? I mean it's 470k in Ray's ready to order sheet associated to some 100µF BGN there.
These monster 10µF are huge and it seems that here as we have many frequencies the best is to do some sandwich of caps, like a 6.8µF K75-10 then a 1µF K40Y-9 then a... yes of course Ricardo, a 0.022µF FT-1 Teflon ( have it and don't want to buy .1 FT-3
).Matthieu
bull041161 said:I dont understand all this its beyond me. Brent do think its the diodes then and not the DAC
It's probably not the diodes, but what Brent means is to replace them anyway, to be sure they are o.k. 22V is still plenty to make a stable 12V. But 10.7V output is not right. If the voltage drop across the 4R7 is too high, this indicates too much current. It is indeed caused by the opamps, as Simon indicates.
The DAC is connected to the opamps through a few 10k resistors, it is unlikely that some voltage from the DAC will cause such high current. Check the 1.4V voltages at pins 2 and 3. Maybe the opamps' output is shorted?
Ray
Malefoda said:
Hi Matthieu,
The value depends on the total load resistance. The 470k is only there to charge/decharge the cap if the output is disconnected, and can be ignored.
If your amp/preamp has an input impedance of 22k for example, you need a 1.5uF cap for a 5Hz cross-over point. If the impedance is lower, you need a bigger cap, like 3uF for 10k. If you want the 5Hz to be lower, you also need a bigger cap, like 6uF for 10k and 2.5Hz. I usually choose a bigger cap, to make sure the phase shift/group-delay in the low-end is flatter. Bigger doesn't hurt, but 100uF is veeeery big
. It also sounds veeeery good.Ray
Incorrect, I changed the op-amps, neither gets warm. The left channel only is pulling the current, the right is not dropping too much voltage.
I changed the metal-hat HAs for OP249s and it made no real difference at all - same lack of sound in left channel and distortion on the right channel. The only difference swapping them made was the 249s drop the voltages a tiny bit less and don't get warm (HAs get warm as standard).
Simon
I changed the metal-hat HAs for OP249s and it made no real difference at all - same lack of sound in left channel and distortion on the right channel. The only difference swapping them made was the 249s drop the voltages a tiny bit less and don't get warm (HAs get warm as standard).
Simon
Hm, strange indeed. So without opamps all voltages are o.k.?
The drop across 4R7 and sag of voltage before the reg cleary indicate excessive current draw. That current has to go somewhere, usually it is transformed into heat.
And I don't see how a broken DAC causes the opamp voltage to sag
How about the 1.4V voltages at pins 2 and 3, are they o.k.?
Ray
The drop across 4R7 and sag of voltage before the reg cleary indicate excessive current draw. That current has to go somewhere, usually it is transformed into heat.
And I don't see how a broken DAC causes the opamp voltage to sag
How about the 1.4V voltages at pins 2 and 3, are they o.k.?
Ray
Malefoda said:Hi Ray,
no mention of the amp load anywhere... and the CDP may feed any amp in fact
I'll go for the bigger I can within the caps I want.
Thx guys!
Don't worry, just go for 10k, that's a safe assumption. A 3.3uF cap will give you a 5Hz cross-over point. Anything bigger is better.
Ray
Well I don't know if it's that but I've check my integrated amplifier with my DMM... you can laugh at me, nothing clear about that can easily be found on the Net.
So my DMM shows 47K at the RCA selected. Any clue?
There should also be a link to the DC blocking caps value in the amplifier wich is only 0.47µF.
I need a higher lid! Once again a non-sleepy night case =)
So my DMM shows 47K at the RCA selected. Any clue?
There should also be a link to the DC blocking caps value in the amplifier wich is only 0.47µF.
Sorry, I can't!6h5c said:
I need a higher lid! Once again a non-sleepy night case =)
No laughing, 47k is a very healthy value, I think most amps have 47k input impedance. In theory, there could be some second impedance present that is blocked by the DC blocking cap, and a DMM won't measure that (it only measures DC resistance, not AC).
With 47k and 0.47uF you have a cross-over frequency of 7.2Hz. The formula is simple: 1 / (2 * pi * 47k * 0.47uF). If you assume the lowest audio-frequency is 20Hz, this is fine, but a bit bigger is even better, it will lower the frequency further. Or, if you are going to use a DC blocking cap in the CD output-stage anyway, you can jumper this one if you like and make the input DC coupled. There's no need for two caps doing the same thing.
Ray
With 47k and 0.47uF you have a cross-over frequency of 7.2Hz. The formula is simple: 1 / (2 * pi * 47k * 0.47uF). If you assume the lowest audio-frequency is 20Hz, this is fine, but a bit bigger is even better, it will lower the frequency further. Or, if you are going to use a DC blocking cap in the CD output-stage anyway, you can jumper this one if you like and make the input DC coupled. There's no need for two caps doing the same thing.
Ray
Ahh that's a problem (another, only problems or what?!), there are DC blocking caps at the phono stage output, then the main ones in the preamp and before the DOS ones... and many possibilities!
How the phono cartridge do DC?
How the phono stage do DC?
Do I have/will have sources with DC? Are the MKP at my tuner's output enough? Will I get other sources? It was sooo complicated to fit these russians caps in that integrated amp... I can remove them now!
If i don't need them anymore that's a fact they can be reused to bypass those green monsters...
Tomorrow or this weekend program because of Ray : check my sources DC... and the phono output DC... Oh my...
Oh man, Ray you trouble me even more!
Thanks for that
Matthieu
Here they are:
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/2320/aurafinal.jpg
How the phono cartridge do DC?
How the phono stage do DC?
Do I have/will have sources with DC? Are the MKP at my tuner's output enough? Will I get other sources? It was sooo complicated to fit these russians caps in that integrated amp... I can remove them now!
If i don't need them anymore that's a fact they can be reused to bypass those green monsters...
Tomorrow or this weekend program because of Ray
: check my sources DC... and the phono output DC... Oh my...Oh man, Ray you trouble me even more!
Thanks for that
Matthieu
Here they are:
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/2320/aurafinal.jpg