I actually double checked that earlier today before cutting and I have no idea where I got that from, I guess I counted xrks measurements as external instead of internal, sorry for the confusion.
I've cut everything (with the correct measurements) except the aperture now and I'll glue it together soon, if the sound will be close to as nice as my current speakers I'll he happy but I hope they will beat them.
I don't really know what to expect of these since it's my first speaker build.
The drawing i made on the foamboard does not have the same measurements as they had on the paint drawing , i'll post the measurements i ended up with when i come home, i also resized the baffle to 20 cm to be able to fit the dual 3fe25, the following part ended up at close to 19 cm instead of 168mm as in my drawing, we will se how it ends up.
I like the mini-Karlsonators so much, I'm building a pair of .53x-ers w/the recommended Dayton P130-8 drivers.
Got to looking for a D-class amp project that would be an upgrade in power and SQ from the HifimeDIY TK2050V2 I'm running the mini's with (really sweet combo).
Well, guess who I found in that section of the forum?
None other than xrk971.
A question for you then, sir.
If you were going to build a Class D amp for a pair of speakers as described in the 1rst sentence, any thoughts on what you would try that would be a step up for me and may just happen to pair well w/the
.53x-ers?
EDIT: Not really stuck on D-class, I'd go for anything of the DIY type projects that build up from components; get an amp board, PS, enclosure and hook it all up level of DIY.
Got to looking for a D-class amp project that would be an upgrade in power and SQ from the HifimeDIY TK2050V2 I'm running the mini's with (really sweet combo).
Well, guess who I found in that section of the forum?
None other than xrk971.
A question for you then, sir.
If you were going to build a Class D amp for a pair of speakers as described in the 1rst sentence, any thoughts on what you would try that would be a step up for me and may just happen to pair well w/the
.53x-ers?
EDIT: Not really stuck on D-class, I'd go for anything of the DIY type projects that build up from components; get an amp board, PS, enclosure and hook it all up level of DIY.
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Hi Mazeppa,
I would recommend a TDA8932 PBTL monoblock from Sanwu with 19v or 24v smps for Class D.
Better yet, any of the LM3886 amps would work too, or IRF2092 based amp and dual rail supply.
Or do an easy discrete class A amp like the Pass ACA. Almost as easy would be a discrete Class AB amp like Apex FH9 xrk mod.
I would recommend a TDA8932 PBTL monoblock from Sanwu with 19v or 24v smps for Class D.
Better yet, any of the LM3886 amps would work too, or IRF2092 based amp and dual rail supply.
Or do an easy discrete class A amp like the Pass ACA. Almost as easy would be a discrete Class AB amp like Apex FH9 xrk mod.
I have a nice 24vdc power supply.
Class A is an intriguing notion.
IRF2092 on my radar from the amp thread I saw you on.
Class AB always a good choice.
Thank you for the recommendations.
I have a new 20W Class A amp called the ALPHA that is superb. One of the best I have heard. It’s easy to build and has zero adjustments to mess with.
Aksa Lender P-mos Hybrid Aleph (ALPHA) Amplifier
Requires a +/-24v supply though and two 24v smps in series can be used - I did it.
Aksa Lender P-mos Hybrid Aleph (ALPHA) Amplifier
Requires a +/-24v supply though and two 24v smps in series can be used - I did it.
20W, now we're talking.
Throw in "It’s easy to build and has zero adjustments to mess with." and you really have my attention.
I sub'd that thread and will read it closely.
I think I found where the confusion with the different sizes came from...
Don't you remember this from 5 years ago X?
Guys, I've been listening to my 0.4 for some months now, and has been enjoying it more with the addition of some acoustic treatment on the glass window behind it. More bass, which is nice. I am now looking into supplementing the higher and lower register of this speaker, making it a 3-way with widebander. First I will start easy with adding a pair of simple tweeter, crossing it first order at around 8000 or maybe 10000Hz. Or should I cross higher? One 2.2uF and some resistor if needed to pad should do it, no?
I am looking at options for bass. Most likely passive crossover too. Where should I look? Design that can be adjusted to the drivers being used, as where I live, choice is limited. Room is small, 7.5*9.5 feet.
Next question would be: what amp, or how many watts is needed? If I can do it all passive with one stereo amp, that would be nice, unless you guys can convince me elsewhere haha.
I hope this is not threadjacking, as my system now revolves around the 0.4K. Thanks!!
I am looking at options for bass. Most likely passive crossover too. Where should I look? Design that can be adjusted to the drivers being used, as where I live, choice is limited. Room is small, 7.5*9.5 feet.
Next question would be: what amp, or how many watts is needed? If I can do it all passive with one stereo amp, that would be nice, unless you guys can convince me elsewhere haha.
I hope this is not threadjacking, as my system now revolves around the 0.4K. Thanks!!
This is not a problem to discuss. You may want to consider an all K setup here.
May I suggest an XKi for bass, something like an 8in Dayton classic woofer or RS225. Use an inductor for first order low pass, circa 10mH. For super tweeter, try a 1in fabric or aluminum dome tweeter in a PVC K tube and maybe 1uF high pass. It will probably need padding to level match the woofer and mid.
The best way to do this is to pick your drivers, build the boxes and K tube, measure each and import FRD and ZMA into Xsim and design a crossover.
That's the complex passive XO way.
Easy way is to get a miniDSP and some low cost Class D amps (or three pairs of Class AB or Class A amps if you have spares lying around), and do itall actively.
Hey X,
Started cutting material for the 0.53x with the dual 3FE25's last night, and I'm using 1/2" black foamcore from hobby lobby (the rest is all black 3/16") for the front wings/aperture. Based on these plans posted a while back, is this what you would recommend for the starting dimensions for the slot on the front wings?
Started cutting material for the 0.53x with the dual 3FE25's last night, and I'm using 1/2" black foamcore from hobby lobby (the rest is all black 3/16") for the front wings/aperture. Based on these plans posted a while back, is this what you would recommend for the starting dimensions for the slot on the front wings?
Check out this new 0.53x dual 3FE25 from Skylar88. Should be good for 97dB at 2.83v!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...11-aca-speaker-short-list-karlsonator-053-pdf
0.53x Karlsonator score-and-fold plans
Ok, 0.53x score and fold plans are done. I basically took my 0.4x plan and scaled it up to 0.53x, so this is a true 0.53 scaling. For the aperture I tried to include both a dimensioned drawing and a scaled section that could be traced. The scaled image barely fit on the page, but the curve is all there. Now this plan is untested, so please let me know if there are any mistakes.
I forgot how long it takes to make these plans. I hope they're useful!
Ok, 0.53x score and fold plans are done. I basically took my 0.4x plan and scaled it up to 0.53x, so this is a true 0.53 scaling. For the aperture I tried to include both a dimensioned drawing and a scaled section that could be traced. The scaled image barely fit on the page, but the curve is all there. Now this plan is untested, so please let me know if there are any mistakes.
I forgot how long it takes to make these plans. I hope they're useful!
Thanks! But seriously, please try them out and let me know how they work. Experience tells me there's at least one mistake in there.