hey X - do you figure its worth a try to see/hear how Beta10cx does in my Karlsonator12 per GregB's drawing? - tuning is somewhat low and centered around 40. I could remove an access panel but don't know if that would raise tuning. A new build with taller vent might be appropriate for someone wanting to use B10cx.
The tuning is not very sensitive to the vent dimensions at the top as it is to the Karlson aperture cusp being open slotted or a converging point. The other major items are overall rear chamber volume (width and depth), and then overall TL length. So removing that bottom panel would really reduce the TL length probably too much. If you want to raise tuning, replace that panel with one half as tall and make the K aperture a slotted one.
But your question of is it worth it to try? I would try it because the sims says it is a perfect match with no alterations needed.
Here is predicted frequency response:
Here is impedance (seems that fb is 45Hz):
But your question of is it worth it to try? I would try it because the sims says it is a perfect match with no alterations needed.
Here is predicted frequency response:
Here is impedance (seems that fb is 45Hz):
Attachments
Last edited:
almost - this cabinet worked very well with Eminence's 12LTA and Nirvana's stamped frame Super 10.
- a K-tube tweeter would probably fit well for konventional 2-way use - it would take some planning to drill the hole in the panel above the baffle plus mounting holes for M6 bolts to reach the compression driver in the "stub"
Fb for a Karlsonator 12 per GregB's plan is about 40Hz with my 12LTA. Future builders might want
some general advice from XRK971 on how to tweak Fb a bit higher when building.
I might add Karlsonator8s to the family of K's - 5/8" Baltic birch with some bracing should be really nice -
"Arauco" dings easily and I think might come apart easier than BB if rough handled.
btw - those red caps are the dreaded Chinese "Audiophiler" - cheap, close tolerance, low ESR
- a K-tube tweeter would probably fit well for konventional 2-way use - it would take some planning to drill the hole in the panel above the baffle plus mounting holes for M6 bolts to reach the compression driver in the "stub"
Fb for a Karlsonator 12 per GregB's plan is about 40Hz with my 12LTA. Future builders might want
some general advice from XRK971 on how to tweak Fb a bit higher when building.
I might add Karlsonator8s to the family of K's - 5/8" Baltic birch with some bracing should be really nice -
"Arauco" dings easily and I think might come apart easier than BB if rough handled.
btw - those red caps are the dreaded Chinese "Audiophiler" - cheap, close tolerance, low ESR
Last edited:
40hz is good for hifi. 50 hz is good for pro drivers and punch. How's that for a gross over-generalization? 
It will be nice to 'hear' how this works. I strongly suspect the 10cx will be very good in this.
Radiata is just a soft pine. Maybe it will sound good, but don't expect it to be tough. I grew up in an "Arauco" forest. Despite it being used in the historical old buildings, the locals considered it not good for lumber, only firewood. Obviously the rest of the world disagrees.
It will be nice to 'hear' how this works. I strongly suspect the 10cx will be very good in this.
Radiata is just a soft pine. Maybe it will sound good, but don't expect it to be tough. I grew up in an "Arauco" forest. Despite it being used in the historical old buildings, the locals considered it not good for lumber, only firewood. Obviously the rest of the world disagrees.
as mentioned before, both Eminence's 12LTA and the old stamped frame Nirvana Super 10 did quite well in the Karlsonator12 - Super10 played very nicely in K15 but probably deeper in the somewhat smaller Karlsonator(12)
standard "Baltic birch" machines a lot nicer than Arauco and is pretty rigid at 5.8" thickness. I need to find the other ADS1001 in my pile to get the K10 below with Beta10cx setup like the Karlsonator. Arauco's plys look kinda funky.
0.62 scale K15 with Beta 10cx - it might be made a teensy bit smaller
and then delete the front shelf - there's about 1 cubic foot rear chamber in this "K10/8"
standard "Baltic birch" machines a lot nicer than Arauco and is pretty rigid at 5.8" thickness. I need to find the other ADS1001 in my pile to get the K10 below with Beta10cx setup like the Karlsonator. Arauco's plys look kinda funky.
0.62 scale K15 with Beta 10cx - it might be made a teensy bit smaller
and then delete the front shelf - there's about 1 cubic foot rear chamber in this "K10/8"
Last edited:
hello all
I like the excitement about this project so I bought some tc9fd speakers and slowly made a prototype. It was bright and plucky where something like a banjo was accented heavily. I just did an experiment and the results a
re nice! Ugly but nice! The result is much more even and bass heavy. Padding is the same, box is the same. Added a little more insulation to the dead end above the speakers. All the ones I have seen the speakers were vertical so I though I'd share.
I like the excitement about this project so I bought some tc9fd speakers and slowly made a prototype. It was bright and plucky where something like a banjo was accented heavily. I just did an experiment and the results a
Iowajosh,
Thanks for giving it a try. It sure looks different side by side. Is there a reason you chose to put it side by side? From a speaker sound quality standpoint - the design actually works better with it over under as that spreads the resonance peaks along te length of the TL a bit. You may be experiencing the more resonant nature of the side by side. Also - hard wood on the K aperture may do that more. Try lining the inside surface of the K aperture with felt or similar material and the internal front side walls with felt. It may improve the sound even some more.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad you like the sound now.
Thanks for giving it a try. It sure looks different side by side. Is there a reason you chose to put it side by side? From a speaker sound quality standpoint - the design actually works better with it over under as that spreads the resonance peaks along te length of the TL a bit. You may be experiencing the more resonant nature of the side by side. Also - hard wood on the K aperture may do that more. Try lining the inside surface of the K aperture with felt or similar material and the internal front side walls with felt. It may improve the sound even some more.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad you like the sound now.
Yeah it was really harsh and it when I covered up the upper speaker, the harshness went away. I put cardboard on the wings to cover up the top speaker and it sounded much better to me.
The top speaker is so high, it is mostly firing into the baffle that is right behind it, not into the big chamber and down the line. Doesn't that cause reflections and problems?
I see most of the protypes are foamcore. Mine is plywood. Maybe it acts different. I do know that my first attempt was not pleasant and had none of the nice bass that people in this thread are raving about. But I have it now. It is quite nice.
I lined the inside with some layered fabric because it was the best I had.
The top speaker is so high, it is mostly firing into the baffle that is right behind it, not into the big chamber and down the line. Doesn't that cause reflections and problems?
I see most of the protypes are foamcore. Mine is plywood. Maybe it acts different. I do know that my first attempt was not pleasant and had none of the nice bass that people in this thread are raving about. But I have it now. It is quite nice.
I lined the inside with some layered fabric because it was the best I had.
Out of curiosity I built up a pair of 0.4x and took the vifas from my 0.53x to test them. They are a clearer sounding than the 0.53x with more treble presence and some nice mid-bass. They'd do well as tv/radio speakers. But the 10-15hz extra bass reach on the 0.53x goes a long way--- I am spoiled.