Thanks Steve again. I'll defiantly get a proper multi meter in case I'll have to go deeper to it. For now I'll just look what type of crossover is used and how route bass, mids and highs. If I'm lucky I might just route mids to lower driver as all of them act as bass drivers and top one as mid-bass and hopefully don't change impedance in the process..
I don't think you need a meter here, since some folks seem to have done most of the work, but we are short of a schematic for the floorsatnder SP-FS52. That is your task!
I found a good mod thread for the two-way SP-BS22-LR.
Dennis Murphy Pioneer SP-BS22-LR DIY Modifications | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
I had a brief look at that one in Boxsim, and it does look as though the bass coil is too small for an 8 ohm 5" driver, tending to overly bright mids and top end.
Pioneer SP-BS22-LR loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com
I spent more time on the Pioneer SP-C22 centre. The Dennis Murphy plan seems to be add a 3.9uF and 2.2R. It fills a serious crossover hole by going third order and tames the top end. Whether you substitute the Vifa BC25TG15-04 is up to you:
Peerless by Tymphany BC25TG15-04 1" Silk Dome Tweeter
Ignore any differences caused by using different drivers. It's the overall picture that interests. 🙂
I found a good mod thread for the two-way SP-BS22-LR.
Dennis Murphy Pioneer SP-BS22-LR DIY Modifications | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
I had a brief look at that one in Boxsim, and it does look as though the bass coil is too small for an 8 ohm 5" driver, tending to overly bright mids and top end.
Pioneer SP-BS22-LR loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com
I spent more time on the Pioneer SP-C22 centre. The Dennis Murphy plan seems to be add a 3.9uF and 2.2R. It fills a serious crossover hole by going third order and tames the top end. Whether you substitute the Vifa BC25TG15-04 is up to you:
Peerless by Tymphany BC25TG15-04 1" Silk Dome Tweeter
Ignore any differences caused by using different drivers. It's the overall picture that interests. 🙂
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So even with the stock tweeter there should be improvement?
If I replace the tweeter on the center, I should probably do the fronts as well (BS22 bookshelf as front) to timbre match?
I think the BS22 only calls for a 3.9uF, would a MKP cap do the job?
Seen some cheap chinese ones , 4pcs for <$10
What kind of resistor do I use? Wattage?
The center mod that is previously described is with the stock tweeter. It would be preferred to do the tweeter replacement mod (the Vifa tweeter is far superior, the original tweeter is disposable), but I believe DM does not have that crossover schematic anymore. Email him and see if you can get it out of him, but I believe he said he lost it!
The BS22s, the crossover mod that goes along with the Vifa tweeter replacement is well documented on AK and AC and I would strongly suggest going that route. The results are extraordinary. He really hit it out of the park on that one. I have also done the BR-1 mods he designed which are much more pricey (about $400) and I believe the Pioneer to be superior. It just has that magic we are looking for. And for the outlay, quite a bargain!
The BS22s, the crossover mod that goes along with the Vifa tweeter replacement is well documented on AK and AC and I would strongly suggest going that route. The results are extraordinary. He really hit it out of the park on that one. I have also done the BR-1 mods he designed which are much more pricey (about $400) and I believe the Pioneer to be superior. It just has that magic we are looking for. And for the outlay, quite a bargain!
2 pack SP-FS52 for $68. + $5 shipping
2 pack SP-FS52 for $68. + $5 shipping @ this price just the cabinets to use as a base to make your own speaker just add structural support and sound deadening as a jumpstart for your own project or to the modifications good garage set of speakers or gift.
But it has with the small brother to these big speakers definitely need some EQ or modifications otherwise the highs will make your eardrums bleed. the sloppy booming bass sounds like a 1986 Honda with cheap subwoofers bloated and Bhoomi sloppy.
Question has anybody tried a modification of the internal cabinet structure to seal off the woofers with no porting to try to tighten up the bass does this sound logical or any benefit ?
2 pack SP-FS52 for $68. + $5 shipping @ this price just the cabinets to use as a base to make your own speaker just add structural support and sound deadening as a jumpstart for your own project or to the modifications good garage set of speakers or gift.
But it has with the small brother to these big speakers definitely need some EQ or modifications otherwise the highs will make your eardrums bleed. the sloppy booming bass sounds like a 1986 Honda with cheap subwoofers bloated and Bhoomi sloppy.
Question has anybody tried a modification of the internal cabinet structure to seal off the woofers with no porting to try to tighten up the bass does this sound logical or any benefit ?
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I have a C22 on the way along with the Vifa tweeter and am hoping to contribute to reconstructing the crossover mod. I am wondering whether the documented mod for the BS22’s compensated for the parallel woofers and higher cabinet volume is a reasonable start, considering that the drivers are the same.
My question: if playing with this in Boxsim, where do I get the driver characteristics? Is there a basis for choosing the W130S and SC10 for which data comes with Boxsim?
My question: if playing with this in Boxsim, where do I get the driver characteristics? Is there a basis for choosing the W130S and SC10 for which data comes with Boxsim?
I had a pair of the floor standing model for a while. For the price I guess they are ok, but I wasn’t impressed.
I think they really suffered from cabinet diffraction. To me, cabinet diffraction sounds like a smacking sound coming off the front of the cabinet. You close your eyes and the soundstage wants to blend across the front and center, but the cabinets keep making a smacking noise telling you where they are.
May have been insufficient bracing and panel thickness as well.
I think they really suffered from cabinet diffraction. To me, cabinet diffraction sounds like a smacking sound coming off the front of the cabinet. You close your eyes and the soundstage wants to blend across the front and center, but the cabinets keep making a smacking noise telling you where they are.
May have been insufficient bracing and panel thickness as well.
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2 mm. or 2.5 mm I bought a milimetric set of allen key set and used in the speakers screws.
Pioneer FS52 crossover - Modification
C1 - 1.8uf
C2 - 15 uf
C2 - 150uf
L1 - 0.39mh ( air core)
L2 - iron core (didn't measure)
R1 1.8Ohms
R2 2.2 Ohms
R3 3.9 Ohms
I am trying to replace the capacitors and resistors with Audio grade components
C1 - 1.8uf
C2 - 15 uf
C2 - 150uf
L1 - 0.39mh ( air core)
L2 - iron core (didn't measure)
R1 1.8Ohms
R2 2.2 Ohms
R3 3.9 Ohms
I am trying to replace the capacitors and resistors with Audio grade components
The above components are used in the current crossover for fs52. My friend is helping me to replace it with a good parts. The nuts used for crossover are very low quality ,it just broke while try to open, it's rusted and easily snipped . The binding plates are plastic not made of metal.
Hi, hoping for some help/clarification. I'm trying too get better dialogue out of the sp-c22. I was going to upgrade the crossover parts but then I found this thread. I'm interested in replacing the tweeter with the peerless. But I'm not sure how to design a new crossover for it. Does anyone have a schematic? Thank you.
I know it's been a couple years, but it looks like you're still active as of 2022 on this forum...any progress? Pics of the modded crossover?
The cabinet is weak and has low dampping, if u can use noress inside,it would be good.this center channel has a limit,so always set these speakers as small and crossover at 120 above
I'm still salty that they banned me
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Didn't wanted to spend more money on tweeter and crossover parts, the crossover in the center channel caps is so cheap when I try to remove it just deteriorated . So in spent less amount on Dayton caps and resistors.