Official M2 schematic

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Hi Russelc,

I'm in the same boat as you. I built the AlephJ before the F6, but didn't have the heart to pull the boards because it sounded so nice, so I built a new chassis and PSU for my F6. The F6 became my favorite. Now I have the M6 boards stuffed and complete so I'm thinking about pulling the Aleph boards, a nice cheap way to hear the M2.

Paul

How do you compare F-6 and Aleph J? M-2 is well worth hearing!

Russellc
 
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I managed to get everything hooked up with 44V across +/- and the offset zeroed by changing R7 to 49.9k. But it won't play any magical sounds out of either side.:confused:

These are Buzz's old M2 PCB's.

What points should I measure to see where the problem is?
 

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I managed to get everything hooked up with 44V across +/- and the offset zeroed by changing R7 to 49.9k. But it won't play any magical sounds out of either side.:confused:

These are Buzz's old M2 PCB's.

What points should I measure to see where the problem is?

Check polarity (-) (+ ) of 10 uF little electrochemicals all is ok ?
Best regards :)
 
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just re-read my post with exact resistors nomenclature :



so - R13,R14 to 0R33

R11 to zero ; ignore previous post where I typed 100R , referencing R11 original value - that was brainfart or typo , whatever

Hey Zen Mod, I'm using Toshiba 2SK1530/2SJ201 as well. Is this bias tweak to get the Toshiba's to a more optimal operating point and to coax a bit more current drive, since these are lower transconductance parts than Fairchild and IRF parts?

Thinking about putting 1R3 parallel with 0R47 and 10R parallel with 221R so as to compare the two Iq's.....hmm

Cinco
 
Member
Joined 2003
Paid Member
I managed to get everything hooked up with 44V across +/- and the offset zeroed by changing R7 to 49.9k. But it won't play any magical sounds out of either side.:confused:

These are Buzz's old M2 PCB's.

What points should I measure to see where the problem is?

I would PM buzz....I suppose your heatsinks are warming up and you are getting proper measurement across source resistors? Or no?

Russellc
 
I managed to get everything hooked up with 44V across +/- and the offset zeroed by changing R7 to 49.9k. But it won't play any magical sounds out of either side.:confused:

These are Buzz's old M2 PCB's.

What points should I measure to see where the problem is?

When Justin put his boards up for sale he mentioned an error which requires wrapping the source resistor around the soldered leg of the MOSFET. Did you do that?

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/282086-pass-m2-clone.html#post4507731
 
Source resistors are warmed up and sitting at 0.63vdc
C2 measures 333. mvdc
Both C2 capacitors are connected so + is to transformer, same as in schematic.
22V + and - testing to board ground.
C3 is 10V

Grinberg,
Yes I did fangdangle the one board to match the schematic. basically swap the grid and source on the one IRFP FET
 
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Official Court Jester
Joined 2003
Paid Member
Hey Zen Mod, I'm using Toshiba 2SK1530/2SJ201 as well. Is this bias tweak to get the Toshiba's to a more optimal operating point and to coax a bit more current drive, since these are lower transconductance parts than Fairchild and IRF parts?

Thinking about putting 1R3 parallel with 0R47 and 10R parallel with 221R so as to compare the two Iq's.....hmm

Cinco

yup ,that was an idea to let Toshibas breathe easier
 
Looks like both transformers are broken:(
pin1 to ground = no connection. It should be 230r or so.

Thanks for everyones help. :)

The transformer's wiring on Buzzforb's PCBs does not match the published schematic. He swapped pins 1 and 3, 7 and 5.
If you are wondering how do I know that, the answer is: I have an unused pair of his boards.

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Hi Russell,

The alephj is very nice, I preferred it over the F5, but I also preferred the F6 over the Aleph J on my system. The bass is very good on the F6. I'm using a tube pre (Aikido) with it, a very nice combo. I tried several SS Preamps but the Aikido is hard to beat.

Paul