UnaHM,
Wow, great progress! Can we get a photo of what you have so far? If you are running without rear chambers, there will not be much bass as it will cancel out a bit. When you say a peak in the mids are you talking about output from the Fullrange or from the woofer? You will need a mic and measurement to do fine tuning. So you have a mic?
Wow, great progress! Can we get a photo of what you have so far? If you are running without rear chambers, there will not be much bass as it will cancel out a bit. When you say a peak in the mids are you talking about output from the Fullrange or from the woofer? You will need a mic and measurement to do fine tuning. So you have a mic?
I had to refrain from taking a picture last night because the area they are in is such a mess 
I'll tidy up tonight, and take a photo.
I do have a mic, yes - namely the measurement mic that comes with the Yamaha receiver. The mid 'peak' I hear may just be increased sensitivity, and I would guess it might be in the 800-1kHz range, where I have the woofers set to cross over to the FaitalPRO at the moment (just an old setting from my experiments earlier on in the year).
It doesn't sound bad, I just noticed it Even though the speakers aren't enclosed, I did notice some punch from the woofers even then, so it'll be interesting to get the rear chambers done!
I'll tidy up tonight, and take a photo.I do have a mic, yes - namely the measurement mic that comes with the Yamaha receiver. The mid 'peak' I hear may just be increased sensitivity, and I would guess it might be in the 800-1kHz range, where I have the woofers set to cross over to the FaitalPRO at the moment (just an old setting from my experiments earlier on in the year).
It doesn't sound bad, I just noticed it
Even though the speakers aren't enclosed, I did notice some punch from the woofers even then, so it'll be interesting to get the rear chambers done!Ok, so here we are:
The one on the left is assembled from the 'front' panels I had left over from my Cornu spiral experiment, hence the holes that need to be filled (although the OSB behind it gives me a good base to glue to). Both have longer top and bottom panels than needed because I haven't cut them down yet.
That's about it!
The one on the left is assembled from the 'front' panels I had left over from my Cornu spiral experiment, hence the holes that need to be filled (although the OSB behind it gives me a good base to glue to). Both have longer top and bottom panels than needed because I haven't cut them down yet.
That's about it!
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Unfortunately I only had enough left of my original sheet for the first one, which was white, so I had to go and buy another, which is supposed to be clear (with a fancy texture of course!).
Yes, bracing definitely needs to be done...they look a little like JBL 'butt-cheeks' at the moment...but it is a combination of that and the barrel distortion from the lens (it's a panoramic picture, so it's even worse).
Yes, bracing definitely needs to be done...they look a little like JBL 'butt-cheeks' at the moment...but it is a combination of that and the barrel distortion from the lens (it's a panoramic picture, so it's even worse).
Sorry for the lack of updates. The cold over here in Colorado has been quite brutal and so I've had to put my mind to other things.
Still, I did have a chance this afternoon to glue on the second OSB panel, though I have no idea how long it'll take to cure in this weather. PL Premium says that it's OK at 40 degrees Fahrenheit and above, and seeing as the high today was 34 (now currently 14), it might take a while to solidify
Once the clamps are off, I'll get on with making the rear chambers. At least I'll be able to play with an incomplete (but functioning) stereo pair soon!
Yes I did see on news that it was very bad wether there, strange that weather here is just very mild, more then 10 degrees but dark sunless already for days, very depressed weather.
I see people here has going on with the horn, do it work also nice, can de bass unit go to 80 hz as minimum to get over to tapped horn.
regards
kees
Yes, with EQ boost I am able to get 80Hz out of the woofers in this configuration. Adding bass reflex re-injection ports will really help and that can be done if an external shell or enclosure was used over the whole back side to increase the Vb. Then four 2in dia x 8in ports can be used to get down to 70Hz without added EQ or excursion.
Rock,
Neat idea to use the monitor to trace. It sounds like you made it 17in wide? That will still work but your low end of the full range driver may not go low enough to cross with the woofer port injection. As a mid/high horn it will work fine though. It looks like you scored he convex side, it is the concave side that is scored for bending and this leaves a smooth curved front. Thanks for sharing and keep us posted.
X
Hey so I have some thin mdf to play with and a couple of 6.5 inch sealedback midranges, could I do basically what you did with 4 drivers except center them on the flank? Are there any detailed drawings of the size and angles of things and how would I go about making that flare (any and all suggestions welcome).
The midranges go to 200 Hz, so I'd have to think of something clever to cover 200 to ~90.
The midranges go to 200 Hz, so I'd have to think of something clever to cover 200 to ~90.
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Yes, a 3-way is the traditional Synergy approach. Are you planning on using a CD for the highs or a full range driver like I have suggested here? To do it right will require some modeling though. Use Bwaslo's spreadsheet and HR for each driver at a different injection point. Otherwise, use Akabak to all of the drivers at once in an integrated manner. It depends on the woofer, take for example the B&C 10CL51 which Weltersys uses - plenty of punch. But the budget $5 woofers I used will require at least 4. The 3FE22 is a great mid actually and use that injecting into small holes near the CD throat.
Lot's of great tips on making your own synergy here by the resident synergy master Bwaslo:
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=19.0
http://libinst.com/SynergyCalc/Synergy%20Calc%20V5.pdf
I am some quiet last time, busy with other thing but today i am start again to simulate this horn, with the visaton 8 inch w200s and the fr8m in it.
FRS 8 M - 8 Ohm
W 200 S - 8 Ohm
do quite well but less efficienty but for livingroom use it stil will go loud enough.
Use the script from here, some question do I have, how can I change the horn part the best way can I copy past things from volvotreters tractrix sheet. So I can do some tryouts, pity that hornresp can not do this versions.
How you get around with throat going from round into square? this do make things worse I did read in these horns who are normally round.
thanks
kees
FRS 8 M - 8 Ohm
W 200 S - 8 Ohm
do quite well but less efficienty but for livingroom use it stil will go loud enough.
Use the script from here, some question do I have, how can I change the horn part the best way can I copy past things from volvotreters tractrix sheet. So I can do some tryouts, pity that hornresp can not do this versions.
How you get around with throat going from round into square? this do make things worse I did read in these horns who are normally round.
thanks
kees
Attachments
Nice sim! You can apply a scaling factor to all dimensions of the horn in akabak and that works quite well. If you want a different profile, you will have to manually pull out values in Volvotrter's spreadsheet and enter by hand. I made the square throat to have corners fit at same equivalent diameter as Sd. So the square throat will be slightly smaller than round Sd. Doesn't seem to hurt bandwidth.
Thanks for comment, I have change the ports chamber and such to get here, also amplifier part is changed because speaker has different efficienty as always the case, You have made that nice piece of akabak work so I can play with it, thanks.
But first I need to let remove a strong 6.8 wifi mast from the roof of the nabure, this do radiate in the measurement equipment big time, I have soon a judge will look at it. als not healthy sleeping in strong field, it is some meters from my bed and I worry.
Do you can explane how to put in the vlvotreters data? just take over make some bigger jumps say 5 or 10 cm? otherwise list get very long..
I go try a other aproach to make a strong horn, I discover it can be very easy also, let now when ready.
thanks
That is because it is critical part in start? You have also put this that way in akabak? You did use a separate chamber for the bass units, is it not possible to use one chamber for both and two ports bassreflex so I can do
I get a error when I open the volvotreter exel sheet but works.
regards