Reflektor-D builds

JOIMONF, can you also try to use the 4-pol just like a normal cap.
In+ shorted to Out+ and In- to Out-.
I also tried different ways and for me this was best.
Would like to hear your opinion.
It's just two bridges you have to solder in.

Hi jptz, very interesting, I placed a copper switch for quick test while music is on play, maybe frist test was dificult to hear, but then as much as I changed the toggle position, the differences become more and more audible, sure the system is warming up, but not only, also the brain need to settle. By now I am astounded how well it performs, that's great difference here bridged in and out. And for BEST! better timbre, coherent image projection, solid and detailed bass notes, punch battery, and so on. Is no way return. So exhilarating I can't prevent upload new pic, forgive me!
 

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Hi jptz, very interesting, I placed a copper switch for quick test while music is on play, maybe frist test was dificult to hear, but then as much as I changed the toggle position, the differences become more and more audible, sure the system is warming up, but not only, also the brain need to settle. By now I am astounded how well it performs, that's great difference here bridged in and out. And for BEST! better timbre, coherent image projection, solid and detailed bass notes, punch battery, and so on. Is no way return. So exhilarating I can't prevent upload new pic, forgive me!

In such case why not just use regular 2 pin Mundorf 1000uf/100V which is smaller and cheaper ...

You still have one combination to compare however: Out (-) to ground. In (+) to transistors. LEDs between In(-) and Out (+).
 
better timbre, coherent image projection, solid and detailed bass notes, punch battery, and so on

So we agree! :)

In such case why not just use regular 2 pin Mundorf 1000uf/100V which is smaller and cheaper ...

Got the same idea and tried. To my surprise the 4-pole is better even if you connect it like a 2-pole.

Think the schematic on the right helps to find the best way how to connect C2.
 

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In such case why not just use regular 2 pin Mundorf 1000uf/100V which is smaller and cheaper ...

You still have one combination to compare however: Out (-) to ground. In (+) to transistors. LEDs between In(-) and Out (+).

I don't expect regular 2 pin performs the same, because of the internal constuction of 4 pin, anyway that comparison is worth a try, of course.

Concerning the combination, I remember having heard phase problems when wiring leds from one extreme of capacitor film to another.
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Tomorrow I expect receive an Mlytic order from www.audiohobby.eu, I can't wait to wire them accordingly to jptz.
My next project is a 5v. supply, Ref-D of course, to power an SSD drive (where install O.S. win 10) , and a PNY 256GB flash drive where music files are stored.
That's inside the computer case, please, how much long can I reach with kelvin 4 wire connection?
Do I better place Ref-D and transformer inside the computer? (LIAN-LI thick and big aluminium case) Thanks advanced.
 
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That's a highly emitting digital environment (inside a PC). I would prefer the Ref-D very near the load in two wire mode so to expose no sense routes or use four wire mode with shielded coax cables only and see. The shorter the better regarding chance of interference. Ref-D Mini would be more ideal in that situation. Or Ref-D on DC-IN mode (external rectifier stage).
 
I don't expect regular 2 pin performs the same, because of the internal constuction of 4 pin, anyway that comparison is worth a try, of course.

Concerning the combination, I remember having heard phase problems when wiring leds from one extreme of capacitor film to another.
-------
Tomorrow I expect receive an Mlytic order from www.audiohobby.eu, I can't wait to wire them accordingly to jptz.
My next project is a 5v. supply, Ref-D of course, to power an SSD drive (where install O.S. win 10) , and a PNY 256GB flash drive where music files are stored.
That's inside the computer case, please, how much long can I reach with kelvin 4 wire connection?
Do I better place Ref-D and transformer inside the computer? (LIAN-LI thick and big aluminium case) Thanks advanced.

Can you elaborate on the phase problem you met with 4 pin MLytic? What was exactly the problem?

I tried Ref D already to power SSD and USB card inside the computer (the way the Salas described, two shielded wires, no klevin). However the best ssd is no ssd at all. Even best regulator will not beat system fully booted into RAM with no SSD at all.

As for transformer you can try: SUPREME AUDIO GRADE V2 from toroidy.pl. They are encapsulated into metal case.
 
That's a highly emitting digital environment (inside a PC). I would prefer the Ref-D very near the load in two wire mode so to expose no sense routes or use four wire mode with shielded coax cables only and see. The shorter the better regarding chance of interference. Ref-D Mini would be more ideal in that situation. Or Ref-D on DC-IN mode (external rectifier stage).

I got, thanks Salas, both Ref-D Mini or Ref-D on DC-IN mode prevent enter ac current into computer case.
If I can fix at least one leg, Mlytic 4 pin, to Ref-D Mini board, I am done!
Then remaining transformer and rectifier stage, right over the computer, around 70cm. distance.
But in the case I were lazy, may I skip that external, and pick 9v. DC from another 5v. Ref-D module in use?? (1 meter far away).
 
Can you elaborate on the phase problem you met with 4 pin MLytic? What was exactly the problem?

I already posted -15th Feb ''... wiring leds from +IN to -OUT was.. how to tell... like reverse the phase on mains power supply. It's a loss on focusing, bass extension and overall coherence.''

And further elaborate -19th Feb ''...crossing leds this way from the begining to the end of capacitor film, seems great loss to me much more than IN to IN against OUT to OUT...''

But leds wiring, no concern anymore, now jptz great find at bridging IN to OUT, makes unsense to which pin were leds attached.

I tried Ref D already to power SSD and USB card inside the computer (the way the Salas described, two shielded wires, no klevin). However the best ssd is no ssd at all. Even best regulator will not beat system fully booted into RAM with no SSD at all.

' system fully booted into RAM' , by now I find some youtube tutorials around 'ramdisk' matter. I will further look at next weekend. Thanks good idea, may improve the sound a lot, skipping some computer low quality clocks.
 
I already posted -15th Feb ''... wiring leds from +IN to -OUT was.. how to tell... like reverse the phase on mains power supply. It's a loss on focusing, bass extension and overall coherence.''

And further elaborate -19th Feb ''...crossing leds this way from the begining to the end of capacitor film, seems great loss to me much more than IN to IN against OUT to OUT...''

But leds wiring, no concern anymore, now jptz great find at bridging IN to OUT, makes unsense to which pin were leds attached.



' system fully booted into RAM' , by now I find some youtube tutorials around 'ramdisk' matter. I will further look at next weekend. Thanks good idea, may improve the sound a lot, skipping some computer low quality clocks.

Audio PC is another story. One of the biggest gains you can get here are running system from RAM and have linear PSU to power PC. Clocks and system optimization are also important, but of second importance if you meet first two requirements. I use OCXO for mobo, dedicated USB card and optimized windows server. Ref D is very good for powering the dedicated USB card on PC side.

For quick gain try Volumio for PC x86/x64. It is dedicated software for audio reproduction that runs from RAM. You just install it on flashdrive and boot your pc (SATA can be turned off in BIOS). Voila!
If you run windows, then optimized it first and try MQN Player.
Then I would go for linear PSU for PC as a second step.
 
That's great interest, TioF by powering LPS, you mean fanless computer PS, or some other external PS?
I would like, in my dreams, new Salas high power Shunt supply for computer audio, and matching thread, jajaa!
As a dedicated software, I use Fidelizer Pro together with Process lasso, and player is Foobar. Then to pick Usb data, I have had a dedicated audio Pci Usb with big precision clock, but outperformed now by straight connection to USB pins in the base of motherboard (Avoiding MB clock, that's straight from Soudhbridge chip. From there is also stored my music files, on an big USB flash memory.
Last year 2016 was a revolution on compiter audio, at least, almost free jitter/latency digital audio.
 
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That's great interest, TioF by powering LPS, you mean fanless computer PS, or some other external PS?
I would like, in my dreams, new Salas high power Shunt supply for computer audio, and matching thread, jajaa!

By LPS I meant Some good quality Linear Power Supply.
I doubt high power Shunt supply would be possible since PC load is not constant and vary much. Shunted current would have to be huge, which means lots of waste and heat!

Other simple idea to compare your PC to other streaming source is connecting your DAC to your phone with Android 5.x.x or above if you have one. It can stream data through USB. You can also try USB Audio Player PRO on your phone.
 
Output Voltage stability over time?

Hi,
I've used Ref-D since October last year.
In October I set 3.35V output with one gereen LED and JFET (2Sk117GR=6.2 mA IDSS) placed in R6 position. I use R1=5 ohm. My target is (3.3V/CCS=33mA).

However I observe slowly growth of output voltage. Currently I have 3.47V output and I am afraid that Vout will grow further over time threatening overvoltage and destroy sensitive digital circuit.
What could cause this? (eg. change IDSS of JFET, change in other transistors or LED parameters). How to prevent against further growth of Vout?
Regards,
bern