xrk,
No, unfortunately, they're not mine(hope they were, though...)
I picked up the pics at the Karlsonator thread (post #831 by freddi - none other...
)
I like the color scheme, and am thinking about applying it on future Karlson projects.
I think this is the build thread if you're interested -
(I wonder why Russians call it Carlson with a C? - maybe because of their alphabet?)
?????????? ????? - ???????? ???? - ???????????? ??????? ? ?????????? KTL
No, unfortunately, they're not mine(hope they were, though...)
I picked up the pics at the Karlsonator thread (post #831 by freddi - none other...
)I like the color scheme, and am thinking about applying it on future Karlson projects.
I think this is the build thread if you're interested -
(I wonder why Russians call it Carlson with a C? - maybe because of their alphabet?)
?????????? ????? - ???????? ???? - ???????????? ??????? ? ?????????? KTL
Thinking about a pair of Dayton RSS265HO 10's in the KaZba? It's got qts of .45 and 90.5 sensitivity. Another speaker that looks promising is the Beyma 12br70 with a qts of .5 and 93db, it's a paper cone and I was kinda wanting aluminum but it would be cool to try a Beyma. Another reason I like these is because they both have low Le. Both below 1. Heard that low Le makes for a faster speaker. I'm an enthusiastic novice at this and I figured these speakers would work well in sealed enclosures if I don't fall in love with the KaZba. Thanks for you help.
KazSony
Well the perfect opportunity afforded itself to dip my toes into some Kazba goodness. The trailer needed a new ramp. That's about a half sheet of 3/4 plywood. What to do? Got some old Sony's laying around. All I know about them is that they are 3.5ohm and would dispense alot of low even 20hz sludge in the pushpull sub they were intended for. And that was about all they were good for! So I went to work and quickly nailed and bolted this together running the front baffle wild cuz you never know maybe the Faital Pro will go good in there. Well, let me tell you, sounds alot better than the cube it resided in. Plays loud too and responds to the knobs on the amp. Ran some hip hop, jazz, William Blakes, "limit to your love." I turned it around and and it definitely sounds better with the Faital Pro closer to the bass, so I need to invert the front baffle. Many thanks to all your contributions that help guys like me put stuff together. Now, how do I convince my wife that four Dayton Reference 12's are needed to make this thing really fly? Isn't there a rule somewhere like the 1-2 months salary for the engagement ring that says 1-2 days pay isn't too much to spend on the bass support for your system?
Well the perfect opportunity afforded itself to dip my toes into some Kazba goodness. The trailer needed a new ramp. That's about a half sheet of 3/4 plywood. What to do? Got some old Sony's laying around. All I know about them is that they are 3.5ohm and would dispense alot of low even 20hz sludge in the pushpull sub they were intended for. And that was about all they were good for! So I went to work and quickly nailed and bolted this together running the front baffle wild cuz you never know maybe the Faital Pro will go good in there. Well, let me tell you, sounds alot better than the cube it resided in. Plays loud too and responds to the knobs on the amp. Ran some hip hop, jazz, William Blakes, "limit to your love." I turned it around and and it definitely sounds better with the Faital Pro closer to the bass, so I need to invert the front baffle. Many thanks to all your contributions that help guys like me put stuff together. Now, how do I convince my wife that four Dayton Reference 12's are needed to make this thing really fly? Isn't there a rule somewhere like the 1-2 months salary for the engagement ring that says 1-2 days pay isn't too much to spend on the bass support for your system?
Attachments
Dave 111:
Wow! Nice design with the gradient elliptical K aperture. Great idea and it looks really nice - better WAF than the curved traditional aperture. In a way, it gives more band pass loading yet still has the aperiodic nature of the K. I am glad it sounds good. Are you doing a z baffle dipole because I can't tell without internal photo or read photo.
Regarding salary fraction and cost of drivers. Put your nose to the grindstone and do good work around the house. Fix the leaky tub or whatever and when she sees you are such a hard worker $200 in new drivers doesn't seem so bad. 2 days salary is probably too much though
Wow! Nice design with the gradient elliptical K aperture. Great idea and it looks really nice - better WAF than the curved traditional aperture. In a way, it gives more band pass loading yet still has the aperiodic nature of the K. I am glad it sounds good. Are you doing a z baffle dipole because I can't tell without internal photo or read photo.
Regarding salary fraction and cost of drivers. Put your nose to the grindstone and do good work around the house. Fix the leaky tub or whatever and when she sees you are such a hard worker $200 in new drivers doesn't seem so bad. 2 days salary is probably too much though
Any photos of inside Z baffle before K aperture was installed? What size Sony woofers are those and are you using 2 per speaker? Still using stock Sony subwoofer amp with its tone controls?
Real curious what Qts and Vas and fs your drivers are - might be a recipe for other to try similar driver. I had good luck with woofers designed for "ported" boxes rather than OB boxes. So Qts of about 0.35 to 0.40 seems to work. Moderate Vas and low fs are good.
Real curious what Qts and Vas and fs your drivers are - might be a recipe for other to try similar driver. I had good luck with woofers designed for "ported" boxes rather than OB boxes. So Qts of about 0.35 to 0.40 seems to work. Moderate Vas and low fs are good.
patent 2816619 1951 John E. Karlson "Acoustic Transducers" http://www.google.com/patents/US2816619
".....The discussions on said tapered aperture have been largely based on an essentially open or unrestricted hole in the coupling chamber. However, it is also the intent of my invention to include a tapered aperture which consists of a series of holes or perforations. A tapered aperture so constructed also presents possibilities for further control of the characteristics of said coupling chamber by a variation in the size and the multiplicity of said holes. These holes can be made both resistive and reactive in nature with the result that a great variety of effects may be introduced by this means."
".....The discussions on said tapered aperture have been largely based on an essentially open or unrestricted hole in the coupling chamber. However, it is also the intent of my invention to include a tapered aperture which consists of a series of holes or perforations. A tapered aperture so constructed also presents possibilities for further control of the characteristics of said coupling chamber by a variation in the size and the multiplicity of said holes. These holes can be made both resistive and reactive in nature with the result that a great variety of effects may be introduced by this means."
There are two in inside and they are 10". Unfortunately I was in a hurry thought I had taken a pic of the inside but didn't. I'm using a Dayton 250 watt plate amp the original Sony bit the dust a long time ago and they've been sitting. Hard to find specs on them. I was able to find that they are 3.5 ohm and that was about it. Makes sense because there were two wired inside a push pull arrangement. I'm looking forward to the days of mini DSP but right now this is working out. There may be some resonance at higher volumes even with the 3/4. I felt the thin area on the hole and it feels like it is resonating. I'd like to get a hold of a piece of Corian or something real solid, assuming that is non-resonant and see if it makes a difference. All in all though I think this dipole is the way forward for me and the look is cool and that matters to me too. I looked into all the possible enclosure types and I think I've picked a "team". I'd still like to build a horn for the 55-2421's that are sitting around collecting dust like the Sony's were.
Wow. Very cool looking Kazbaesque K-baffle.
You get extra style points for the multiple elliptical apertures. That's not a bad idea for a subwoofer application. It may have an effect similar to a horn throat. I've done a couple TL exits with multiple holes to approximate a K aperture, but never anything front loaded like that.
Got two Dayton 10's to test out and they have not disappointed in the KaZba or in a sealed box. Would like to have gotten the reference tens, but I could need eight drivers if I go with two Kazbas per side above and below the 4 Faital Pro's in some kind of line array (open, Hilding Horn, or sealed) and that was going get costly fast. In any event I'm going to need two more at minimum so when I get them I will be able to compare the sound directly against the Kazba. So far so good.
Attachments
They're DA270-8. Nice driver and half the price of the reference. I've noticed the Kazba bass seems quite deep even compared to the same driver sealed. Funny thing I wasn't to worried about getting the deepest notes because I'd planned to build a sealed 12" or finally finishing a tapped horn for my sub. How deep do you suppose it is going before it seriously rolls off? How do the transients & group delay (whatever that is) compare to a sealed cabinet?
Leaving the back karlson panal off
This thread may be done with, but I would like to float an idea for anyone out there who may be still tracking this. In the slot loaded open baffle article by Nelson Pass (http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_slob.pdf), he found that by slot loading the front, but not the back, yielded some positive effects. The benefit is that the air is better coupled with the desirable front wave, but less so with the less desirable back wave - attenuating the backwave output relative to the front wave output.
Has anyone tried this?
Retsel
This thread may be done with, but I would like to float an idea for anyone out there who may be still tracking this. In the slot loaded open baffle article by Nelson Pass (http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_slob.pdf), he found that by slot loading the front, but not the back, yielded some positive effects. The benefit is that the air is better coupled with the desirable front wave, but less so with the less desirable back wave - attenuating the backwave output relative to the front wave output.
Has anyone tried this?
Retsel
I have actually tried this and it sounds pretty good. Note that it will make the front and rear patter asymmetric so it will be less of a dipole and more like maybe a cardiod pattern - or something like that. Also, you will not have the benefit of the cone loading on the back side so the driver will move more on the back stroke and less on the front stroke. The second harmonic distortion cancellation will not be as good. But all that doesn't matter if you think it sounds better.
The size is not so important - just make it fit with enough clearance and adjust depth of box to get an overall volume about 1/2 to 1x the Vas of both drivers added together if you want deep bass extension.