Thank you for your detailed reply. Is it crazy, has anyone tried it? It occurred to me because Danny Richie (GRResearch) talks in detail about his hi-fi system, which is independent of the mains because it is entirely battery powered.
And the general consensus on Ian Canada's products is that supercapacitors provide the best power, better than battery.
And the general consensus on Ian Canada's products is that supercapacitors provide the best power, better than battery.
Of course any well regarded PSU design can be mated and tested with the DCG3. Objectively and subjectively. But I don't remember posts reporting about an actual supercap PSU & DCG3 combination in this thread. We also like shunt regulators here. The UltraBiB 1.3 has been combined numerous times. That's an about 2nVrtHz output noise measuring shunt reg. The DCG3 is not that peculiar though as it had been measured producing very low noise floor with either the DCSTB or UBiB.
Hi, there is the DC servo chip for that. But for DC protection against hard breakdown scenarios like one rail supply gone etc. you may use an additional DC detect and disengage module like those they sell on ebay for power amplifiers.
By the way, use 150mA output stage bias for those 25Ω Denon headphones.
By the way, use 150mA output stage bias for those 25Ω Denon headphones.
Just a short test. DCG3 worked on the first power-up. I set the DC offset below 1 mV.
The current through resistor R3 is 4.4 mA and through resistor R10 is 171 mA
I'm just waiting for the DCSTB boards to fit it to the modushop box. And lest I forget, that huge heatsink is absolutely cold...
I recently completed the GainWire MK3 preamplifier and headphone (all in one) from @dadod , and in conjunction with the Denon AH-D7200 headphones, I was impressed with the sound. I haven't heard anything better so far, I'm very curious how DCG3 will be, if it will be even better...
The current through resistor R3 is 4.4 mA and through resistor R10 is 171 mA
I'm just waiting for the DCSTB boards to fit it to the modushop box. And lest I forget, that huge heatsink is absolutely cold...
I recently completed the GainWire MK3 preamplifier and headphone (all in one) from @dadod , and in conjunction with the Denon AH-D7200 headphones, I was impressed with the sound. I haven't heard anything better so far, I'm very curious how DCG3 will be, if it will be even better...
Those two are very different circuits and ought to sound different. One is complex CFA all BJT symmetrical shooting for top THD spec, the other one is much simpler single ended VFA mostly FET shooting for satisfactory THD spec vs minimum silicon junctions. Hopefully you will enjoy both for different subjective reasons.
Normalize SPL between different gains when comparing and don't listen too loud for too long. Avoid to jeopardize the ears. Headphones listening because solo can carry us away. Also try the DCG3 as a line level preamp sometime.
Normalize SPL between different gains when comparing and don't listen too loud for too long. Avoid to jeopardize the ears. Headphones listening because solo can carry us away. Also try the DCG3 as a line level preamp sometime.
See to use tallest sinks fitting on the DCSTB boards and have adequate box ventilation. Because that 171mA plus smaller stages mA pass through each section of the PSU too. Creating dissipation on its sinks by TmA*(Vin-Vout) i.e. total rail current times (rectified DC RMS minus stabilized DC out). Of course Vin-Vout widens and pushes dissipation further if the transformers have highish secondaries for the purpose.The current through resistor R3 is 4.4 mA and through resistor R10 is 171 mA
I'm just waiting for the DCSTB boards to fit it to the modushop box.
Everyone says America has the best of everything, ...but the postal service is probably the slowest in the world
Last month I sent a package to America, it took 7 calendar days
SVK vs USA post
I'm playing a bit with storing DCG3 in the modushop box, ...but it's going to be a bit cramped in there. Only room left for DCSTB. The heatsinks on the power supplies will be 38 mm high + 20 mm spacer and will be nicely flush with the large heatsink. If the power supplies were too hot, I would buy a fully vented aluminium cover. Still design the front and back panels and send them to production, ...
Last month I sent a package to America, it took 7 calendar days
SVK vs USA post
I'm playing a bit with storing DCG3 in the modushop box, ...but it's going to be a bit cramped in there. Only room left for DCSTB. The heatsinks on the power supplies will be 38 mm high + 20 mm spacer and will be nicely flush with the large heatsink. If the power supplies were too hot, I would buy a fully vented aluminium cover. Still design the front and back panels and send them to production, ...
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Hi Salas,
I have a question on the subject of transformers. I have 2 surplus transformers which are doing nothing. I am thinking of connecting them to generate the 17V output for the DCSTB. I want to connect the 50V secondary of transformer #1 to the primary of transformer #2 which has a rated 40V output. I have done the connection and the end result is about 18V unload. Is this acceptable practice? Thanks.
I have a question on the subject of transformers. I have 2 surplus transformers which are doing nothing. I am thinking of connecting them to generate the 17V output for the DCSTB. I want to connect the 50V secondary of transformer #1 to the primary of transformer #2 which has a rated 40V output. I have done the connection and the end result is about 18V unload. Is this acceptable practice? Thanks.
Attachments
PSU is ready, ...measured values in both sources identical (17,28V and 17,32 V).
DCG3 I have to put aside for now, I'm ahead of finishing GainWire MK3, waiting for the panels to come out of production (milling, engraving).
I'd like to get back to DCG3 in August and finish it, hopefully I'll be able to create a masterpiece Front and rear panels will be milled and engraved, ...the rear input will a deluxe Furutech FT 903 (G) and the front NEUTRIK NJ3FP6C-B
DCG3 I have to put aside for now, I'm ahead of finishing GainWire MK3, waiting for the panels to come out of production (milling, engraving).
I'd like to get back to DCG3 in August and finish it, hopefully I'll be able to create a masterpiece
Front and rear panels will be milled and engraved, ...the rear input will a deluxe Furutech FT 903 (G) and the front NEUTRIK NJ3FP6C-BAttachments
Attachments
This is a aluminium-angle 60x60x 8 mm…
This this is so massive that I didn‘t bond it to the base-plate to avoid the chassis getting warm (which makes me feel a bit uncomfortable even though I know it’s perfectly fine)… thus I made sure airflow is increased through these not very regularly placed holes 😬
This this is so massive that I didn‘t bond it to the base-plate to avoid the chassis getting warm (which makes me feel a bit uncomfortable even though I know it’s perfectly fine)… thus I made sure airflow is increased through these not very regularly placed holes 😬
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It's been a while that I am enjoying DCG3 a lot. I have just one issue to fix. When I turn DCG3 off, there is a pop on one channel only, probably the one feeding with power the VU meter board and the remote control board. I see one VU meter hitting peak at powere off. Any ideas of possible solutions here?
Regarding heat dissipation, I took some measurements with the air condition turned off and DCG3 preamp positioned in the furniture shelf (about 10cm clean space on top). Room temperature 31C, heatsink on top 56C, heatsink inside 62 (there is a hole on the top of the heatsink that allows the probe to dive inside it). I measure a couple degrees lower when running in real life conditions (ambient temperature about 27C). Should I worry and opt for a larger heatsink?
Regarding heat dissipation, I took some measurements with the air condition turned off and DCG3 preamp positioned in the furniture shelf (about 10cm clean space on top). Room temperature 31C, heatsink on top 56C, heatsink inside 62 (there is a hole on the top of the heatsink that allows the probe to dive inside it). I measure a couple degrees lower when running in real life conditions (ambient temperature about 27C). Should I worry and opt for a larger heatsink?
First inspect those extra boards with the scope when powering off to try locate where the pop occurs. Also rearrange their wiring to see if influential.
Fix the sink to the chassis floor so to spread the heat. Directly or put an aluminum block in-between floor and sink not to drill it again for the Mosfets.
Fix the sink to the chassis floor so to spread the heat. Directly or put an aluminum block in-between floor and sink not to drill it again for the Mosfets.