Hi guys,
I've been looking for a schematic like this and am glad I run into this.
I plan on using it as the I/V stage for my Monica2 DAC (tda1545A).
Before I start building it (I read the whole thread of course) I would like to ask if thee is any more to tell (experiences/modifications) that was not yet written in this thread?
I got the advice (from an expert) to use a 10R resistor between the collector of Q1 and the emitor of Q2 to prevent oscillation. The same guy also advised to change D2 to a red LED as well.
Does it make any difference if one uses a small or bigger red LED ?
Rbroer, do you still sell circuit boards for this I/V convertor?![Big grin :D :D](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
Regards,
Ronald
I've been looking for a schematic like this and am glad I run into this.
I plan on using it as the I/V stage for my Monica2 DAC (tda1545A).
Before I start building it (I read the whole thread of course) I would like to ask if thee is any more to tell (experiences/modifications) that was not yet written in this thread?
I got the advice (from an expert) to use a 10R resistor between the collector of Q1 and the emitor of Q2 to prevent oscillation. The same guy also advised to change D2 to a red LED as well.
Does it make any difference if one uses a small or bigger red LED ?
Rbroer, do you still sell circuit boards for this I/V convertor?
Regards,
Ronald
It won't hurt, so try it with and without and let us know your results.tingtong5 said:I got the advice (from an expert) to use a 10R resistor between the collector of Q1 and the emitor of Q2 to prevent oscillation.
Afraid for saturation of Q3 ? Your same worrie should apply then to D3.
The same guy also advised to change D2 to a red LED as well.
You will end up with less output voltage margin, unless you increase your supply voltage. In this case I would suggest something like >= 18Vdc
Does it make any difference if one uses a small or bigger red LED ? Dunno about your LED's. My stock of RED ones do 1.5V @ 1mA, and my GREEN ones do about 1.7V @ 1mA
Rbroer, do you still sell circuit boards for this I/V convertor?
Never sold any, I build this on VERO boards as you should have seen earlier in this thread.
I actually might have this built circuit lying around somewhere. I built it into a cd player for my brother. Player's laser died and I got the player back and I think I salvaged some parts, including the I/V.
Drop me a PM if interested, then I'll try to locate it.
Groeten,
Ok I willrbroer said:It won't hurt, so try it with and without and let us know your results.
I was planning on using 18 Volts.rbroer said:Afraid for saturation of Q3 ? Your same worrie should apply then to D3.
You will end up with less output voltage margin, unless you increase your supply voltage. In this case I would suggest something like >= 18Vdc
Yes worried about saturation..
Since I would like to have 2Vrms output I plan on raising the I/V resistor to 5K6. I wonder if 18V will still be sufficient in that case.
Ok...rbroer said:Does it make any difference if one uses a small or bigger red LED ? Dunno about your LED's. My stock of RED ones do 1.5V @ 1mA, and my GREEN ones do about 1.7V @ 1mA
Sorry, I misunderstood.rbroer said:Never sold any, I build this on VERO boards as you should have seen earlier in this thread.
Thanks a lotrbroer said:I actually might have this built circuit lying around somewhere. I built it into a cd player for my brother. Player's laser died and I got the player back and I think I salvaged some parts, including the I/V.
Drop me a PM if interested, then I'll try to locate it.
I build the circuit and first impression is:
- colouration of passive 2K2 I/V conversion on TDA1545 is gone
- better bass (more dynamic?)
So thats good and I am very happy with these results
Also I do have decent output now (I used 5K6 for I/V resistor).
On the other hand is seems to sound a little on the "cold" side. I used normal carbon resistors, will it make a difference to change those for say DALE resistors?
Rudolf if you read this, do you happen to know where to get/order DALE resistors in holland?
I also wondered why you choose for diodes instead of LED's for D2 and D3 ?
Regards,
Ronald
- colouration of passive 2K2 I/V conversion on TDA1545 is gone
- better bass (more dynamic?)
So thats good and I am very happy with these results
On the other hand is seems to sound a little on the "cold" side. I used normal carbon resistors, will it make a difference to change those for say DALE resistors?
Rudolf if you read this, do you happen to know where to get/order DALE resistors in holland?
I also wondered why you choose for diodes instead of LED's for D2 and D3 ?
Regards,
Ronald
This issue may have been covered before ... how can one utilize TDA1545's (or TDA1543's) Vref? It, according to Philips datasheet, is supposed to be connected to the positive (+) input of the I/V opamp. However, Rbroer's Single rail, active I/V does not have "differential" inputs.
Thx for any info anyone can provide!
Thx for any info anyone can provide!
Have a look here, ive done one for the PCM 1738, it's working and producing gorgeous sound.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130568&page=19
Many thanks to Rudolf
![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130568&page=19
Many thanks to Rudolf
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I have two units that use the PCM1738: Musical Fidelity DAC, and a Pioneer DVD-A/SACD. So your project is interesting.Have a look here, ive done one for the PCM 1738, it's working and producing gorgeous sound.http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130568&page=19
Please note that to avoid confusion, let's keep all PCM1738 comments on your thread (not unless one specifically correlates to TDA1545 or 1543): this thread is for TDA1545 and TD1543 only. I think there is a dedicated Rudolf I/V thread for the TDA1541, also.
.. let's keep all PCM1738 comments on your thread ....
Absolutely hollowman i'll follow this one here and the PCM1738 there.
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