Hey all. I'm looking for advice on the best way to share 2 x-over outputs between the 4 line inputs of my 4x100W board.
My speaker system is arranged as TMWW. The woofers are 4Ohms each, but rather driving them @ 8Ohms in series with 2 amp channels, I want to use all four channels (1per 4Ohm woofer).
I need to split outputs 1/2 from my DCX2496. Is it as simple as Y-splitting the signal in parallel, or does this present impedance issues? Is there a way of splitting the signal in series when the ground on the sure's input is shared?
Thanks for your help
My speaker system is arranged as TMWW. The woofers are 4Ohms each, but rather driving them @ 8Ohms in series with 2 amp channels, I want to use all four channels (1per 4Ohm woofer).
I need to split outputs 1/2 from my DCX2496. Is it as simple as Y-splitting the signal in parallel, or does this present impedance issues? Is there a way of splitting the signal in series when the ground on the sure's input is shared?
Thanks for your help
Hi guys,
Anyone familiar with this mod? I heard about changing the resistors on the input side to allow for more input from low-level input sources (like iPod's and such), is that correct? I think that's what is described above. Would it be sufficient to bridge the original resistors (i measured 50k ohm?) with 1k ones?
Thanks for your help
Anyone familiar with this mod? I heard about changing the resistors on the input side to allow for more input from low-level input sources (like iPod's and such), is that correct? I think that's what is described above. Would it be sufficient to bridge the original resistors (i measured 50k ohm?) with 1k ones?
Thanks for your help
Hello. You say that the referenced ground for the outputs is not the same.
However, the referenced ground for the inputs should be the same, right? I also wish to drive 2 or even 4 inputs from the same preamplifier, instead of buying 3 external Y-Splitters, wouldn't it also be possible to connect a single RCA cable, and use copper wire to tie all the CH# inputs to the same level, and all the grounds to the same level? Like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It seems to me that this would be doing the exact same thing that an external RCA Y-splitter would be doing, or am I overlooking something?
EDIT: To clarify, the above image would be for tying all 4 inputs together, tying 2 together would look like this
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do not bridge the amp.
Some people claim they have found a way to bridge the amp, but no proof shown yet.
Dont try unless you really know what you are doing
For 4 ohm load you can take one channel, and leave one unused. Put some load (20 ohm resistor) on the output though. tp2050 chips dont like being run without load.
Some people claim they have found a way to bridge the amp, but no proof shown yet.
Dont try unless you really know what you are doing
For 4 ohm load you can take one channel, and leave one unused. Put some load (20 ohm resistor) on the output though. tp2050 chips dont like being run without load.
Yes, all you need to do is divide the signal into inputs 1+2 (Y-spliting should be fine as long as the source can handle the load) then send ch1 to voice-coil 1 and ch2 to voice-coil 2... This is pretty much the same thing that I've done with 2 woofers, rather than one DVC woofer
I analized my board (4*100w), received 3 weeks ago : Sure put 22k resistor instead 100k resistor in the dc adjust circuit
Heatsink?
Any improvement to the way the heatsink is attached in order to keep it flat against the chips so they wont burn up?
Has anyone tried arctic silver alumina or any of the other thermal adhesives on the market used for computer components?
I used to use this stuff back when I watercooled my video cards. After ripping off the stock cooler, the vrm's and ram chips on the video card were exposed to air and would get really hot. We used thermal adhesive to keep the heatsinks stuck where there were no mounting points.
I haven't read this thread in its entirety so there may be some other issues going on. One, the bottom of the heatsink may not be entirely flat in which case, lapping it might help. Two, the board itself may be flexing due to the heat this is putting out. This was the case with the xbox 360 and why so many of them died early on. If that's the case, it might be better to use a larger, taller heatsink possibly with active cooling.
Just a few ideas. It seems like a neat board.
Edit: One other idea is to take a look for screws with spring mounts... generally used for cpu mounting kits. Then you can tighten the heatsink clamps until there's even force.
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Bendy boards still an issue
What sendler said ... I'm poised with my finger above the order button for 2 of these boards, but if they are going to toast because of the daughter board still being bent during production it might be worth looking at 3 of the 2x100W boards.
What sendler said ... I'm poised with my finger above the order button for 2 of these boards, but if they are going to toast because of the daughter board still being bent during production it might be worth looking at 3 of the 2x100W boards.
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New to class D
Hello all
I am currently in the process of designing a 10 channel amplifier to bi-amp my recently finished home theater speakers. I have some Pioneer ICE amplifier boards gathering dust and I'm currently waiting on some gainclone PCBs that I ordered last week. I was looking for something at Parts Express, when I came across the Sure boards. I've read through this whole thread, but I've still a few questions.
By the sound of it there seems to be less failures than there was a few months ago, and I'm sure Parts Express wouldn't carry them if they were still failing as often. Has anyone had a catastrophic failure with some recently released boards?
There was talk on this thread about bi-amping. If anyone can share their results or advice, that would be greatly appreciated! And since I will be bi-amping, could I get away with using 1 power supply with 2 boards (due to the limited bandwidth)?
I will have 2 channels left unused. Should I short the unused inputs to ground and place a resistor on the outputs?
Like I said I'm new to class D amplifiers and I'm sure I'll have more questions down the road.
Thanks!
Hello all
I am currently in the process of designing a 10 channel amplifier to bi-amp my recently finished home theater speakers. I have some Pioneer ICE amplifier boards gathering dust and I'm currently waiting on some gainclone PCBs that I ordered last week. I was looking for something at Parts Express, when I came across the Sure boards. I've read through this whole thread, but I've still a few questions.
By the sound of it there seems to be less failures than there was a few months ago, and I'm sure Parts Express wouldn't carry them if they were still failing as often. Has anyone had a catastrophic failure with some recently released boards?
There was talk on this thread about bi-amping. If anyone can share their results or advice, that would be greatly appreciated! And since I will be bi-amping, could I get away with using 1 power supply with 2 boards (due to the limited bandwidth)?
I will have 2 channels left unused. Should I short the unused inputs to ground and place a resistor on the outputs?
Like I said I'm new to class D amplifiers and I'm sure I'll have more questions down the road.
Thanks!
I think I will use all 4 channel boards, just to keep all variations to a minimum.
Has anyone had a board fry recently? It sounds like the quality has been improving...
To those that have had their boards fry, have they ever damaged the speakers they were connected to?
I will be bi-amping with these, and normally I would place a capacitor in series with the tweeter to eliminate any possible DC. Is that still a good idea?
Has anyone had a board fry recently? It sounds like the quality has been improving...
To those that have had their boards fry, have they ever damaged the speakers they were connected to?
I will be bi-amping with these, and normally I would place a capacitor in series with the tweeter to eliminate any possible DC. Is that still a good idea?
Tweeter
Your tweeter will already have a series cap if you are using a speaker with it's passive crossover. Adding another one will throw the crossover off. I have purchased some protection modules to eliminate the turn on pop but haven't tried them yet.
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/conn...udio-amplifier-accessories-2.html#post2131892
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Your tweeter will already have a series cap if you are using a speaker with it's passive crossover. Adding another one will throw the crossover off. I have purchased some protection modules to eliminate the turn on pop but haven't tried them yet.
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/conn...udio-amplifier-accessories-2.html#post2131892
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I don't know exactly how it was attached before (in earlier versions), but I think there's no improvement : black heatsink with 4 screws in the 4 corners, 4 brass spacers and different number of washers in each corner to adjust the variation of distance (chips not really at the same height...). I put a 12cm pc fan on it, feeded with 5VDC....no noise, heatsink always cool.
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