Decided against the 4x100W
I'd ordered two of these boards at the beginning of this week, I then had an overnight change of heart and contacted Sure to amend my order to 4 of the 2x100W boards. Maybe more expensive this way, but reading what I have in this thread I think that I may have made the better decision - I'm seeing more potential with the 2x100W for mods.
IIRC there was a post in the 2x100W thread (somewhere around the post 60 mark, I don't know) which mentioned that Sure had tried a 4x100W before with a different chip, and that maybe this board (with its strange daughterboard growth) was an attempt at getting rid of the old PCB?
Anyhoo, back to reading the 2x100W ... I've gotten to page 96 now and there are still tonnes to go
I'd ordered two of these boards at the beginning of this week, I then had an overnight change of heart and contacted Sure to amend my order to 4 of the 2x100W boards. Maybe more expensive this way, but reading what I have in this thread I think that I may have made the better decision - I'm seeing more potential with the 2x100W for mods.
IIRC there was a post in the 2x100W thread (somewhere around the post 60 mark, I don't know) which mentioned that Sure had tried a 4x100W before with a different chip, and that maybe this board (with its strange daughterboard growth) was an attempt at getting rid of the old PCB?
Anyhoo, back to reading the 2x100W ... I've gotten to page 96 now and there are still tonnes to go
I'd ordered two of these boards at the beginning of this week, I then had an overnight change of heart and contacted Sure to amend my order to 4 of the 2x100W boards. Maybe more expensive this way, but reading what I have in this thread I think that I may have made the better decision - I'm seeing more potential with the 2x100W for mods.
IIRC there was a post in the 2x100W thread (somewhere around the post 60 mark, I don't know) which mentioned that Sure had tried a 4x100W before with a different chip, and that maybe this board (with its strange daughterboard growth) was an attempt at getting rid of the old PCB?
Anyhoo, back to reading the 2x100W ... I've gotten to page 96 now and there are still tonnes to go
Yes, Sure had tried a 4X100W before with a different chip (I don't know which one), with no good results...and yes, they recycled the big board.
IMHO, as it comes, the 4X100w sounds better than the 2X100W...then...mods can change so much the sound!
cheers
Already bridged
The output chips are already bridged. They can't be bridged again. Speaker minus is not ground.
The output chips are already bridged. They can't be bridged again. Speaker minus is not ground.
MeanWell
The MeanWell SMPS sounds fantastic and would be a steal at twice the price.
The MeanWell SMPS sounds fantastic and would be a steal at twice the price.
I have both boards. The only full-range speakers that I was able to power with both boards are some Spirit studio monitors and I must confess that I've never really A/B'd them... I used the 4x100 with these speakers until the 2x100 board arrived... Both boards sound great and have more than enough power and control to make the 8Ohm monitors come alive. @ first I thought the amps were a bit harsh in the upper midrange (around 4k) but I believe my monitors may be a bit bright and the NAD amp that I was previously powering them with had a more laid back quality so it balanced them out. The 1st thing that I did notice was a definite improvement in imaging and clarity. The NAD sounded a bit warmer but I like the overall sound of the Sure boards better.
There's been a lot of question about reliability of the 4*100W board... I've been using mine with a DCX-2496 xover, powering the mids and tweets in my main active 3way system since I purchased it almost a year ago and it's been problem free... I'm powering it with a 27v Sure board.
There's been a lot of question about reliability of the 4*100W board... I've been using mine with a DCX-2496 xover, powering the mids and tweets in my main active 3way system since I purchased it almost a year ago and it's been problem free... I'm powering it with a 27v Sure board.
Ok thanks! I ordered the 4x100 board. Hopefully there are some decent mods to do to it even with the constrained space caused by the daughter board. Who knows maybe I won't feel a need to mod it?
I also ordered the Meanwell SMPS. I'm looking at ordering a couple Modu enclosures one for my dual mono DAC and one for the Sure.
Can you run 2 of the 4x100 amp boards off a single 350watt PSU? Or is 14.6amps not enough for 2?
I also ordered the Meanwell SMPS. I'm looking at ordering a couple Modu enclosures one for my dual mono DAC and one for the Sure.
Can you run 2 of the 4x100 amp boards off a single 350watt PSU? Or is 14.6amps not enough for 2?
4 x 100W is a total output of 400W. You cannot get that from a 350W PSU.
Now change the load from resistance to reactive speakers and the amplifiers will demand too much current from the PSU.
Even if you consider the 4x100W as more like a real 4x40W group of amplifiers, that is still a total loading of 160W from a 350W PSU. Where will the transient peak currents that the reactive speakers will demand come from. Not from the current limited PSU.
As for running 8x40W from a 350W PSU!!
Hi,
go back and read again.
Reactive speaker loading is very different from resistive loading.
An 8ohm speaker can demand a peak transient current that regularly exceeds double what an 8r0 resistor would demand and sometimes it can exceed three times the resistive current.
Your 14.6A shared between 4 amplifiers is just 3.65A per amplifier. This is the maximum current that you can expect to supply per amplifier, if they all demand current at the same time.
Let's send 40W to 8r0 resistor load. That's 25.3Vpk and 3.16Apk for one 40W amplifier. If you replace the resistor with a reactive 8ohm speaker and the test signal becomes real music, you can expect the amplifier to try to meet a current demand of 6Apk regularly and 9Apk very occasionally.
Now multiply that loading up for 4 parallel/bridged amplifiers. Has the 350W PSU any transient overload capability?
That was my question:
go back and read again.
Reactive speaker loading is very different from resistive loading.
An 8ohm speaker can demand a peak transient current that regularly exceeds double what an 8r0 resistor would demand and sometimes it can exceed three times the resistive current.
Your 14.6A shared between 4 amplifiers is just 3.65A per amplifier. This is the maximum current that you can expect to supply per amplifier, if they all demand current at the same time.
Let's send 40W to 8r0 resistor load. That's 25.3Vpk and 3.16Apk for one 40W amplifier. If you replace the resistor with a reactive 8ohm speaker and the test signal becomes real music, you can expect the amplifier to try to meet a current demand of 6Apk regularly and 9Apk very occasionally.
Now multiply that loading up for 4 parallel/bridged amplifiers. Has the 350W PSU any transient overload capability?
That was my question:
Last edited:
Noise
There is also an unexplained noise issue that often begins when using two different Tripath boards with the same supply. It has been observed by different people whether using batteries, SMPS, or linear supplies. A low level whistle or squeal that is just louder than the amp hiss. Difference tone from the almost identical switching frequencies modulating each other's ground?
Each board needs it's own supply. Luckily. the S-350 MeanWells are ridiculously cheap and sound great.
There is also an unexplained noise issue that often begins when using two different Tripath boards with the same supply. It has been observed by different people whether using batteries, SMPS, or linear supplies. A low level whistle or squeal that is just louder than the amp hiss. Difference tone from the almost identical switching frequencies modulating each other's ground?
Each board needs it's own supply. Luckily. the S-350 MeanWells are ridiculously cheap and sound great.
Thinking about getting this Amp
My question is, will this Sure 4x100 amp play my two pairs of front speakers at the same time with my ONE pair of high quality RCA cables going out of my CD player? Or do I need to split the RCA cables with an adapter cable/cables to go into both sets of RCA inputs on this board to play all 4 speakers at the same time? The problem I see with that is loss of sound/signal quality due to the splitting, extra connections. Playing TWO pairs of main speakers at the same time is the best I've heard. I do that now with my Sansui 8900ZDB, this Sansui model sounds amazing! I have several other Tripath amps, but I would love to play my two sets of speakers with a Tripath Amp at the same time.
Thanks in advance!
My question is, will this Sure 4x100 amp play my two pairs of front speakers at the same time with my ONE pair of high quality RCA cables going out of my CD player? Or do I need to split the RCA cables with an adapter cable/cables to go into both sets of RCA inputs on this board to play all 4 speakers at the same time? The problem I see with that is loss of sound/signal quality due to the splitting, extra connections. Playing TWO pairs of main speakers at the same time is the best I've heard. I do that now with my Sansui 8900ZDB, this Sansui model sounds amazing! I have several other Tripath amps, but I would love to play my two sets of speakers with a Tripath Amp at the same time.
Thanks in advance!
Hi, Thank you! Great I was hoping there was a way. The clear choice for me would be to try to Bridge the inputs on the board! I have no idea how to do that though. On my Trends Amp you can switch it from an integrated amp with the volume control, to a power amp then using a pre-amp with it just by removing some jumpers. Is it something like that, or more involved?
Thanks again for the help!
On my Trends Amp you can switch it from an integrated amp with the volume control, to a power amp then using a pre-amp with it just by removing some jumpers. Is it something like that, or more involved?Thanks again for the help!
Hi, Thank you! Great I was hoping there was a way. The clear choice for me would be to try to Bridge the inputs on the board! I have no idea how to do that though.
Thanks again for the help!
Just Y-split the wire that would usually go to input 1 so that it now goes to 1+3. Do the same with inputs 2+4
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.