I noticed in the documentation one of the suggested uses for the amp was for active subs. As long as the power output is adequate I don't see why not.
Does anyone have an answer for this??
Hi All,
I posted this on the original TK2050 thread but this seems more appropriate.
I've bought a 4x TK2050 for an outdoor portable/battery powered speaker project for street parties and festivals. It basically just needs to be loud enough to instigate a spontaneous outdoor dance party, efficient/good battery life and as bassy as possible with very little concern for hi-fi quality in this case. I have a 12" speaker from a 60w fender bass amp (don't think it's particularly efficient) and a bunch of other random assorted speakers I plan on using. I currently have a 12v 80ah battery which I'd like to use if possible, but I'll consider investing in something else if need be.
I'll admit I'm a bit of an amateur, but I'm scratching my head about a few things... and I'm unsure as to what the best parts to buy would be from here on...
Firstly, since this is the 4 channel version, would it effect power consumption if I left 2 channels unused?? what sort of idle power consumption could I expect from unused channels on this amp?
Also..
- what sort of power output could I expect running this on 12v? Is the difference between 12 and 24 really that dramatic with this amp?
- If I did need 24v, is it essential to pair my existing battery with an identical one? or could I get away with using another random 12v battery with similar specs?
- If identical batteries are recommended... what sort of battery life could be achieved with 2x of those cheap 12v 7.5AH batteries running in parallel to produce 24v? Are these adequate in terms of amperage or should I look for something better?
- would it be possible to extend battery life by connecting 2x 12v solar panels... if so, what would the ideal output of the solar panels be?
- will this amp handle assorted speakers of different impedence on different channels?
- Could I use the amp while charging the batteries from AC using a regulated battery charger? would this substitute as an AC power supply or is this damaging to the batteries?
Thanks
Does anyone have an answer for this??
Hey savenger1,
For loud use outdoor, you'll want use very efficient 4R speakers & all 4 channels. Basically use the most efficient pro drivers you can find (>95db woofers & horn loaded mids/tweets)... Ch's 1+2 can power (2) 4Ohm pro woofers / Ch's 3+4 can power your highs. Divide the frequencies with a cheap car audio crossover
You won't get enough power with 12v. Go for 24v
Sorry I have no clue about you battery & charging questions
For loud use outdoor, you'll want use very efficient 4R speakers & all 4 channels. Basically use the most efficient pro drivers you can find (>95db woofers & horn loaded mids/tweets)... Ch's 1+2 can power (2) 4Ohm pro woofers / Ch's 3+4 can power your highs. Divide the frequencies with a cheap car audio crossover
You won't get enough power with 12v. Go for 24v
Sorry I have no clue about you battery & charging questions
Most bass instrument drivers are peaky.
Like guitar speakers "most" have wicked resonances that sound quite unnatural. Find some cheap plastic PA speakers, Peavey/Berhinger etc. for a lightweight quick solution. (Some would say cheap PA boxes sound unnatural but they are hard to beat for the DB's per dollar.)
Hi All,
I posted this on the original TK2050 thread but this seems more appropriate.
I've bought a 4x TK2050 for an outdoor portable/battery powered speaker project for street parties and festivals. It basically just needs to be loud enough to instigate a spontaneous outdoor dance party, efficient/good battery life and as bassy as possible with very little concern for hi-fi quality in this case. I have a 12" speaker from a 60w fender bass amp (don't think it's particularly efficient) and a bunch of other random assorted speakers I plan on using. I currently have a 12v 80ah battery which I'd like to use if possible, but I'll consider investing in something else if need be.
I'll admit I'm a bit of an amateur, but I'm scratching my head about a few things... and I'm unsure as to what the best parts to buy would be from here on...
Firstly, since this is the 4 channel version, would it effect power consumption if I left 2 channels unused?? what sort of idle power consumption could I expect from unused channels on this amp?
Also..
- what sort of power output could I expect running this on 12v? Is the difference between 12 and 24 really that dramatic with this amp?
- If I did need 24v, is it essential to pair my existing battery with an identical one? or could I get away with using another random 12v battery with similar specs?
- If identical batteries are recommended... what sort of battery life could be achieved with 2x of those cheap 12v 7.5AH batteries running in parallel to produce 24v? Are these adequate in terms of amperage or should I look for something better?
- would it be possible to extend battery life by connecting 2x 12v solar panels... if so, what would the ideal output of the solar panels be?
- will this amp handle assorted speakers of different impedence on different channels?
- Could I use the amp while charging the batteries from AC using a regulated battery charger? would this substitute as an AC power supply or is this damaging to the batteries?
Thanks
Like guitar speakers "most" have wicked resonances that sound quite unnatural. Find some cheap plastic PA speakers, Peavey/Berhinger etc. for a lightweight quick solution. (Some would say cheap PA boxes sound unnatural but they are hard to beat for the DB's per dollar.)
hmm, interesting thought.
living in Australia it's difficult to find affordable high sensitivity speakers... shipping from europe or USA is usually more than the actual cost of the speakers, especially with bulky cabinets.
I'll look into premade PA cabinets, but the cheapest I've found are still more expensive than standalone drivers with homemade cabinets made from junk (which is the aesthetic I'm looking for anyway). I was thinking along the lines of these drivers to mount in a wheelie bin or backpack system, as they're the only affordable, acceptable quality drivers I seem to be able to find here: etone PROFESSIONAL SOUND
some unnatural frequency spikes are tolerable, unless they're so bad they make me want to tear my ears off I think it'll just add to the character of the rig.
Does anyone know how long a 4xtk2050 will run on 2x 7ah batteries in parallel at 24v in practice?
living in Australia it's difficult to find affordable high sensitivity speakers... shipping from europe or USA is usually more than the actual cost of the speakers, especially with bulky cabinets.
I'll look into premade PA cabinets, but the cheapest I've found are still more expensive than standalone drivers with homemade cabinets made from junk (which is the aesthetic I'm looking for anyway). I was thinking along the lines of these drivers to mount in a wheelie bin or backpack system, as they're the only affordable, acceptable quality drivers I seem to be able to find here: etone PROFESSIONAL SOUND
some unnatural frequency spikes are tolerable, unless they're so bad they make me want to tear my ears off I think it'll just add to the character of the rig.
Does anyone know how long a 4xtk2050 will run on 2x 7ah batteries in parallel at 24v in practice?
The 10" look good.
A pair of the 10" tuned to 60hz or higher in a suitable (large) box should sound good outdoors.
I got over three hours on a 2X3ah 12v in series = (24v) 3ah. Even a tiny lightweight li-ion 12v was loud enough for hours of party level listening
with efficient speakers.
Here is my light-loud and cheap kit
A pair of the 10" tuned to 60hz or higher in a suitable (large) box should sound good outdoors.
I got over three hours on a 2X3ah 12v in series = (24v) 3ah. Even a tiny lightweight li-ion 12v was loud enough for hours of party level listening
with efficient speakers.
Here is my light-loud and cheap kit
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
that thing is freakin' awesome doom. I saw your post on the speakerplans forums. Are those PVC tubes behind the 10" drivers? is it open ended or is there a port?
call me a noob, but how would I go about tuning a cabinet to a particular frequency? Assuming I was using something like a wheelie bin or a piece of PVC tube, how much control would I really have?
Thanks a million for the battery advice. It's good to know that 2x 7ah batteries will go for a reasonable time... How do you charge your batteries? is it worth getting another 24v mains power supply which I can switch over to while I charge the batteries in series, or is there a relatively simple way to charge the batteries in parallel at 24v while listening without affecting sound quality?
call me a noob, but how would I go about tuning a cabinet to a particular frequency? Assuming I was using something like a wheelie bin or a piece of PVC tube, how much control would I really have?
Thanks a million for the battery advice. It's good to know that 2x 7ah batteries will go for a reasonable time... How do you charge your batteries? is it worth getting another 24v mains power supply which I can switch over to while I charge the batteries in series, or is there a relatively simple way to charge the batteries in parallel at 24v while listening without affecting sound quality?
Sonotube = thick cardboard.
Nothing out there is lighter and stiffer than sonotube for DIY mobile boxes. It is designed to hold 100's of lbs/kg of concrete and is quite popular for large DIY home theater subs that would weigh too much to move if constructed from wood. It is not very resistant to side impacts though so you can't sit on it latterly which is why you never see it in Pro-sound boxes.
I am using Peavey PR10 neo 10" drivers that cost around $40 each and weigh nothing. The cabinet is ported and tuned to 75hz. I use unibox and winisd to calculate box dimensions and port size but other free software and calculators are out there also.
The speakers only weigh 14lbs each with tweeters but would probably not survive a good crash so if you ride fast and out of control a more streamlined kit will last longer.
I am planing a trailer system with a 15" subwoofer but will need much more power to keep up with the 10"s.
Nothing out there is lighter and stiffer than sonotube for DIY mobile boxes. It is designed to hold 100's of lbs/kg of concrete and is quite popular for large DIY home theater subs that would weigh too much to move if constructed from wood. It is not very resistant to side impacts though so you can't sit on it latterly which is why you never see it in Pro-sound boxes.
I am using Peavey PR10 neo 10" drivers that cost around $40 each and weigh nothing. The cabinet is ported and tuned to 75hz. I use unibox and winisd to calculate box dimensions and port size but other free software and calculators are out there also.
The speakers only weigh 14lbs each with tweeters but would probably not survive a good crash so if you ride fast and out of control a more streamlined kit will last longer.
I am planing a trailer system with a 15" subwoofer but will need much more power to keep up with the 10"s.
My SLA and li-ion batteries came with chargers and I have not tried the amp while plugged in.
If you are not pushing the amp to the limit it works fine on the cheap and light CCTV li-ion packs you can get from e-bay. SLA is really a block of lead
So, what is the general opinion of what would be the better option. Two of the 2x100 boards or just one 4x100 board? I have read all the posts in this thread and it looks like a given to change out the resistors to be able to get the DC offset adjusted to a minimum. On the other hand, word has it that there may be some noise from using a single Meanwell SMPS to power two of the 2x100 boards. I'm looking for something to push me one way or the other.
Two for one
You will have a whining noise if you use two 2X100 boards with one power supply whether it is SMPS, batteries, or whatever. One good reason to use two power supplies, 1 foot speaker cables sound much better than 8 foot.
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