Hi patonga,
I noticed it on Bjohannesen website: http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_MICRO_for_W2_803_SM.pdf
I noticed it on Bjohannesen website: http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_MICRO_for_W2_803_SM.pdf
I just assembled my first TABAQ with a TG9FD. I was underwhelmed at first--it sounded like it had a tilted up top end and no warmth.
To be clear, this was only one speaker playing in my 50 degree garage. I also hadn't stuffed the upper half of the enclosure and I hadn't connected the BSC circuit. Stuffing the enclosure made a huge improvement. The BSC didn't have a large effect--until I realized it wired it in parallel with the driver. I wired it up in series with the driver and things improved a lot. After a few hours I double checked my driver polarity and sure enough I had the BSC connected to the - terminal of the driver. Another improvement in sound quality.
My point is this, don't discount the driver until you cover all your bases. I'm electronically klutzier than most but surely not singular in my failure to dot all the "i's" and cross 100% of the "t's." [emoji6]
To be sure, there's not much below 100hz but what it has is taut and tuneful. The addition of the second speaker will further reinforce the positives. I'm also planning a little sub to augment from 40 to 100hz.
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Also on his website: http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_MICRO_2_inch.pdf
I thought i saw on on this thread somewhere that someone made a folded version. If not, I would like to try a pair
I thought i saw on on this thread somewhere that someone made a folded version. If not, I would like to try a pair
Can you please answer these questions ?
1.How much inside length for the enclosure your recommend for more SPL ?
2. You said 3.8" (96.57mm) aperture for the port. But there are no PVC, Mild Steel bends readily available in that dimension.
But, for the dia of 3.8", surface area is: 7327 mm2.
So, if we use a rectangular port of the same area, would it be suffice ?
If so, a 100x73.3 mm hole (7327mm2 area) cut at the bottom should work, right ?
3. Is the length of the port important ?
if it is, what should be length of the port ?
4. Also, should the port face the front (so the port tube in an "L" shape) or is it ok to be down firing ?
If down firing is ok, then how much clearance we need at the bottom ?
Sorry to ask so many questions
I'm Mechanical Engineer and I'm used to having full data available before committing to anything, became a habit .
Thanks for the heads up...I just didn't saw the port dimensions until you mentioned it here.
BTW, please don't make a TABAQ based on this drawing as its still a work in progress.
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2 inch TABAQ
The 2" plays down to 80 Hz. With some EQ you can push it a little more down it you are playing at low level.
I use the baffle step circuit.
Of course this is not a party speaker but perfect for listening at moderate level like PC speakers.
It it fun that such small driver can play that good.
Bjørn
The 2" plays down to 80 Hz. With some EQ you can push it a little more down it you are playing at low level.
I use the baffle step circuit.
Of course this is not a party speaker but perfect for listening at moderate level like PC speakers.
It it fun that such small driver can play that good.
Bjørn
Yes, I know but Mr. Bjorn, in the updated drawing mentioned the port aperture=3.8" (96.52mm). So,the surface area of a 3.8" port is 7320mm2.
Then, as the width of the speaker cabinet is 100mm, the height of the port should be 7320/100= ~73mm.
So, the port dimensions: 100x73mm or 10x7.3 cm or is it
Thanks for the reply !
So, the port dimension should be 1.6cm X 10cm !!
I'll correct the drawing and finish it and start planning the build.
By the way, I got the drivers today and did a listening test by placing it in a cardboard box. It sounds decent but the lower part of the treble and bass were missing. I can understand the bass but misssing treble...may be I will should add a dome tweeter ?
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Marc, I think your plan to fill-in the lower end with a sub is a great approach. At the moment I am listening to my TABAQ's, loaded with the TC9FD and supported with a single 8"sub, RSS210, (25-80hz)... I thoroughly enjoy it! Listening to sweep tones, the TC9FD in the TABAQ reaches down to a solid 50 hz but I still prefer the support of a sub.
Pete
Pete
Would these work in the mini TABAQ? The Qt is a lot closer to the 3" driver that the Tabaq was designed for.
Peerless by Tymphany TC6FD02-04 2" Full-Range Line Array Driver 4 Ohm
Peerless by Tymphany TC6FD02-04 2" Full-Range Line Array Driver 4 Ohm
It's early days yet. The driver cone and spider must be stiff. Besides, a leaky and lossy cardboard box is hardly the proper enclosure to assess driver performance!
Try putting the drivers in separate boxes of smaller size. You don’t need to cut any vent.
You have to break-in the drivers first. Start at low volume and increase it as you put in more hours. By the time your Tabaqs are built, these drivers will have broken-in somewhat. You can decide whether you need to add tweeters after you've listened to them in the Tabaq enclosures.
And yes. As you’re planning to use 15 mm thick material, don’t forget to chamfer the back of the driver holes to allow the drivers to breathe.
It's early days yet. The driver cone and spider must be stiff. Besides, a leaky and lossy cardboard box is hardly the proper enclosure to assess driver performance!
Try putting the drivers in separate boxes of smaller size. You don’t need to cut any vent.
You have to break-in the drivers first. Start at low volume and increase it as you put in more hours. By the time your Tabaqs are built, these drivers will have broken-in somewhat. You can decide whether you need to add tweeters after you've listened to them in the Tabaq enclosures.
And yes. As you’re planning to use 15 mm thick material, don’t forget to chamfer the back of the driver holes to allow the drivers to breathe.
Copy that !
I put them in two cardboard boxes and I must say the mids and treble is
very bright and lovin' it No need for tweeters
But the bass is non-existent though which I can understand.
When I compare it with existing floorstanding speakers, these little guys are very clear (male voices are superb) and have that "sparkle" at the top end.
If I had a sub, I would have left them in the cardboard boxes and called it a day
Now on to the build,
1. Shall I mount the drivers with rubber gaskets to isolate any vibrations?
2. Making the enclosure: Wood glue and wood screws are only needed right ?
Or I should use silicon sealant too ?
3.Regarding the chamfer: Is there any wave-guide profile needed around the driver ?
Copy that !
I put them in two cardboard boxes and I must say the mids and treble is
No need for tweeters
But the bass is non-existent though which I can understand.
When I compare it with existing floorstanding speakers, these little guys are very clear (male voices are superb) and have that "sparkle" at the top end.
If I had a sub, I would have left them in the cardboard boxes and called it a day [emoji14]
Now on to the build,
1. Shall I mount the drivers with rubber gaskets to isolate any vibrations?
2. Making the enclosure: Wood glue and wood screws are only needed right ?
Or I should use silicon sealant too ?
3.Regarding the chamfer: Is there any wave-guide profile needed around the driver ?
1- the foam rubber gasketing tape was sufficient for my build
2- the box should be as sealed as possible, aside from the port. Using silicone or flexible ALEX to seal up inside seams is never a bad idea. I used flexible construction adhesive and pneumatic brads with great results. The adhesive is thicker than wood glue so it takes up for any small irregularities in joining edges and it doesn't become brittle.
3- the plans call for the driver to be surface mounted on the front face so no waveguide needed there. The chamfer is suggested due to the thicker mdf you are using to allow the woofer to breathe. A chamfer can just be a 45° bevel cut on the backside of the baffle, using a router, around the cutout for the driver.
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Is chamfer really that important? In my case I planned to use 19mm mdf. With the TB W4-1052SD there will only be 3.5mm material left on each side of the baffle after routing the hole. The recess will have to go into the side panels.
I planned to route the recess and driver hole after mounting sides and front baffle together. That will make it difficult to chamfer it from the back. On the sides there won't be space for 45 deg cut.
Would it be better to use 12mm for the front baffle when I don't have space to chamfer?
I planned to route the recess and driver hole after mounting sides and front baffle together. That will make it difficult to chamfer it from the back. On the sides there won't be space for 45 deg cut.
Would it be better to use 12mm for the front baffle when I don't have space to chamfer?
Thanks for the clarifications 👍
By the way, as my driver is a 3" TB W3, should I use a smaller port, smaller than 10cm x 1.6cm ?
@yngvejos
May be a shallow taper would do !
I, too, used a 4" driver and experienced the lack of material to the sides on the baffle.
If your driver recess is substantial enough, the chamfer wouldn't be necessary anyway as you would be approaching 12mm at the point on the baffle where the driver is mounted.
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