Hi Bjørn,
I just wanted to thank you especially and all the other contributors to this thread.
I have recently built my own Tabaqs using the Visaton FR8's. This is my first ever build and I
have enjoyed it immensely and learned a few things along the way (mainly that my woodworking skills are limited!)
The sound they produce is excellent. Nobody has failed to be impressed upon listening to them. They all comment on the bass that can be produced from such small speakers!
So thanks again!
Regards
Chris
I just wanted to thank you especially and all the other contributors to this thread.
I have recently built my own Tabaqs using the Visaton FR8's. This is my first ever build and I
have enjoyed it immensely and learned a few things along the way (mainly that my woodworking skills are limited!)
The sound they produce is excellent. Nobody has failed to be impressed upon listening to them. They all comment on the bass that can be produced from such small speakers!
So thanks again!
Regards
Chris
Help with modified for W3 2141 TABAQ details
Hi All,
I have two TB W3 2141 on their way to me and am trying to make sure that I am building the best cabinet for them. In the latest info I could find on the cabinet modified specifically for this particular driver, Bjorn specified, "Increase initial length 3 inches. Mount driver 9 inches from closed end. Stuff upper 2/3 with 80 G. Port length 5 inches."
I have two questions.
1. Does the port cross section area remain at 16 sq. CM?
2. Is the specified port length definitely 5 inches from the exit to the entrance using the revised, centrally located, port entrance? Since the original port length was 3.8 inches increasing it to 5 inches to change the tuning from 55HZ to 48HZ seems like a lot.
I am eager to start cabinet construction and input from folks who have successfully built this variant for the TB W3 2141 would be greatly appreciated.
Best,
Jay
Hi All,
I have two TB W3 2141 on their way to me and am trying to make sure that I am building the best cabinet for them. In the latest info I could find on the cabinet modified specifically for this particular driver, Bjorn specified, "Increase initial length 3 inches. Mount driver 9 inches from closed end. Stuff upper 2/3 with 80 G. Port length 5 inches."
I have two questions.
1. Does the port cross section area remain at 16 sq. CM?
2. Is the specified port length definitely 5 inches from the exit to the entrance using the revised, centrally located, port entrance? Since the original port length was 3.8 inches increasing it to 5 inches to change the tuning from 55HZ to 48HZ seems like a lot.
I am eager to start cabinet construction and input from folks who have successfully built this variant for the TB W3 2141 would be greatly appreciated.
Best,
Jay
I have not built, but found published specs for this driver different from what I've measured. I don't know if Bjorn designed based on measurements or published specs. If of some use here it goes:
Measurements (Drivers been playing in garage for 4-5 months... Call them A and B samples )
TB2143 (A) | TB2143 (B)
Re: 6.907 | 6.685
Fs : 107.7 | 109
Qts: 0.5283 | 0.4944
Qes: 0.6549 | 0.6038
Qms: 2.734 | 2.728
Le : 0.1782 | 0.1739
Mms: 2.179 | 2.204
Vas*: 2.086 (L) | 1.925 (L)
*added mass method (dime 2.268 g)
Measurements (Drivers been playing in garage for 4-5 months... Call them A and B samples )
TB2143 (A) | TB2143 (B)
Re: 6.907 | 6.685
Fs : 107.7 | 109
Qts: 0.5283 | 0.4944
Qes: 0.6549 | 0.6038
Qms: 2.734 | 2.728
Le : 0.1782 | 0.1739
Mms: 2.179 | 2.204
Vas*: 2.086 (L) | 1.925 (L)
*added mass method (dime 2.268 g)
Thanks Bjorn, I would much rather wait till you get home to check, than cut the cabinet to the wrong size! Also, if it is not too much trouble, could you check to see if the design changes significantly using the TB 2141 parameters as measured by Relevator in the post previous to yours? That averaged measured Fs of 108.5 HZ seems quite different than the factory specified 75HZ.
Thanks again!
Jay
Thanks again!
Jay
Last edited:
Sorry, I missed this for a few days....
Running the LATL software is the easy bit.
Changing the X-section of the enclosure has predictable effects on the size of ply/wood/MDF required.
I changed the height of the port. Thus screwing up any existing wood-cut dimensions (vertically). i.e. The side panels grow a bit as does the back.
If it's thought that the port needs to be longer, that could change the height again.... Or could push the port entrance slightly to the back of the enclosure.
It needs to be modelled in Sketchup or similar. That the modelled internal dimensions can be understood and made into a cutting list for construction.
J.
Last edited:
Many thanks for the simulations Bjorn, they are very helpful to me and all other folks wanting to build a TABAQ utilizing the TB 2141. One question though, why do you say that your choice would be the version with the smaller cross sectional area? I was leaning towards building the version that gives what looks like 5 db deeper bass extension, but wonder what advantages, besides a slightly smaller footprint, the version you prefer offers.
Best,
Jay
Best,
Jay
You're welcome!
Know the problem well!
I used this: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...-tabaq-tl-tang-band-tabaq-large-w51611saf.pdf
In theory, no, though without doing any research or having auditioned either one per se [have only built Pensil concept way back when using larger drivers], the audible results may be quite close depending on the amount of damping in each.
GM
Bjorn,
I am planning another build from my 3". Either going 4" or 5".
I know the 4" can be dropped into the original design with revised port. I don't mind experimenting a bit, but being close to what works with the TABAQ design will help knowing what driver works best as a starting point. Without asking to many questions about various drivers I find.Is there a minimum Qts that one should be aware of for choosing a driver in say a 4" driver? I'm looking at the TB W4-1337SDF. I cannot find in a search a sim or someone that has used this driver.
I am planning another build from my 3". Either going 4" or 5".
I know the 4" can be dropped into the original design with revised port. I don't mind experimenting a bit, but being close to what works with the TABAQ design will help knowing what driver works best as a starting point. Without asking to many questions about various drivers I find.Is there a minimum Qts that one should be aware of for choosing a driver in say a 4" driver? I'm looking at the TB W4-1337SDF. I cannot find in a search a sim or someone that has used this driver.
Bjorn,
Thanks for your advice. I am putting together the hd dac/amp and enclosure right now, which will take a bit of time, so I will wait patiently for you to sim. I'm interested in what comes of it. This driver intrigued me, good that you think it will work just fine, with some tweaking.
Thanks for your advice. I am putting together the hd dac/amp and enclosure right now, which will take a bit of time, so I will wait patiently for you to sim. I'm interested in what comes of it. This driver intrigued me, good that you think it will work just fine, with some tweaking.
You want them to move as little as possible; virtually no movement. A pad might allow more movement compared to having them directly on the floor, so I'd stay away from a pad if possible. Mounting spikes are a great way to go if you can. In a perfect world, the speaker cabinet could be mounted directly to the floor, allowing no movement. However, I really don't know how audible a little movement is.
A stand is good if it is solid and brings the driver to ear level, which is desirable.
Mike
A stand is good if it is solid and brings the driver to ear level, which is desirable.
Mike
I tried this to add stability
I had them on them sitting on the floor, but with cats in the house they could easily tip over. I added these feet a bit wider then the speaker width, this helped with tipping over sideways. I couldn't really tell a whole lot of difference with them on in the bass. With the pads on the legs it changed nothing also to my ears.
I had them on them sitting on the floor, but with cats in the house they could easily tip over. I added these feet a bit wider then the speaker width, this helped with tipping over sideways. I couldn't really tell a whole lot of difference with them on in the bass. With the pads on the legs it changed nothing also to my ears.
Attachments
