This thread is awesome. Thank you Bjorn for the design. This is the original design from the pdf. I used the BSC and 60 grams of stuffing. Knicked up the laminate a little around the one outlet but otherwise they came out great. The sound is crisp and not boxy or harsh at all.
Attachments
Better candidate?
Hi Perceval, Bjorn.
Would be TB W4-1879 better candidate for TABAQ? Would be a modification needed using this (hifi) driver? What result could be expected? I mean if compared to the W4-1320SJ.
I'd like to taste the TL during the Xmas time
Thank you. A lot.
Hi Perceval, Bjorn.
Would be TB W4-1879 better candidate for TABAQ? Would be a modification needed using this (hifi) driver? What result could be expected? I mean if compared to the W4-1320SJ.
I'd like to taste the TL during the Xmas time
Thank you. A lot.
Hi guys,
I almost finished my TABAQs with Monacor SPX-30M. They are currently with one of the walls held by wood clamps. I am surprised by the sound from these small speakers. The only thing I don't like is that I think there is a small peak in the middle frequencies which make the lower frequencies disappear a bit. Is the correction circuit's purpose to lower this exact peak? I am considering to add that LR filter (1.0 mH & 3.9 ohm) and to see if the change is worth it. Also how crucial is the good seal of the boxes. I am not sure if the box has a perfect seal and I don't have some insulation between the driver and the box. Maybe there are some micro gaps and I don't know if the sound will change a lot when I finally close the boxes and seal everything perfectly.
You can check the result here YouTube
I almost finished my TABAQs with Monacor SPX-30M. They are currently with one of the walls held by wood clamps. I am surprised by the sound from these small speakers. The only thing I don't like is that I think there is a small peak in the middle frequencies which make the lower frequencies disappear a bit. Is the correction circuit's purpose to lower this exact peak? I am considering to add that LR filter (1.0 mH & 3.9 ohm) and to see if the change is worth it. Also how crucial is the good seal of the boxes. I am not sure if the box has a perfect seal and I don't have some insulation between the driver and the box. Maybe there are some micro gaps and I don't know if the sound will change a lot when I finally close the boxes and seal everything perfectly.
You can check the result here YouTube
Hi
Have you stuffed the cabinet ? The upper 2/3 of the line.
The LR filter will attenaute the upper frequencies if you find this to be a problem. If you want to test with a filter you could use a resistor a few ohms higher than the 3.9 as this is a 8 ohm speaker.
This driver looks very suited for TABAQ and you should not miss bass. If you suspect there are leaks just tape the edges for now.
Hi
Bjørn
Have you stuffed the cabinet ? The upper 2/3 of the line.
The LR filter will attenaute the upper frequencies if you find this to be a problem. If you want to test with a filter you could use a resistor a few ohms higher than the 3.9 as this is a 8 ohm speaker.
This driver looks very suited for TABAQ and you should not miss bass. If you suspect there are leaks just tape the edges for now.
Hi
Bjørn
Yes it is stuffed 2/3 with 100 gr. polyester wool (I don't know if that's the right way to say it). The bass is not exactly missing, it is there but the mid/high frequencies are taking predominance and I hear the bass less. I tried lowering the mid and high frequencies a bit with EQ and to my ears the sound becomes a bit flatter. I'll try the filter soon with different resistors and will share the results with you. Also taping the edges is a good idea. Will try that as well.
You can get a feel for what happens at the baffle edges by downloading "The Edge" baffle diffraction simulator. In general, the job of the baffle step circuit is to re-balance (lower) the frequencies above the baffle step "zone". Also, within "the zone" of frequencies affected, a "hump" tends to form in the FR of the speaker. Addressing that requires placing the driver in offset location on the baffle and/or radiusing the baffle edges.
Home of the Edge
J.
Astoinov,
Having leaks in your build is a sure way to lose bass.
I know we are sometimes excited and we want to speed things along to see/hear the end result, but it usually means there will be problems and you'll need to take the boxes apart to fix them, or start new again.
Take your time, measure twice, seal all edges internally with caulk, use some kind of gasket under your driver, and you will be rewarded with the best sound possible.
Having leaks in your build is a sure way to lose bass.
I know we are sometimes excited and we want to speed things along to see/hear the end result, but it usually means there will be problems and you'll need to take the boxes apart to fix them, or start new again.
Take your time, measure twice, seal all edges internally with caulk, use some kind of gasket under your driver, and you will be rewarded with the best sound possible.
Hi,
does the Dayton Audio RS100-4 fit straight in the original TABAQ? or did we need to modify the box?
spec: http://loudspeakerfreaks.com/datasheets/dayton/rs100-4.pdf
many thanks for your time
Jason
does the Dayton Audio RS100-4 fit straight in the original TABAQ? or did we need to modify the box?
spec: http://loudspeakerfreaks.com/datasheets/dayton/rs100-4.pdf
many thanks for your time
Jason
Yes, as Bjorn already mentioned in this post:
TABAQ TL for Tang Band
A quick search would've brought it up for you....
Hi Bjørn.
Thank you very much for your time. And your knowldge you are sharing with us.
I am the patient patient
ATB
Jan