Which F6 pcb are you using? That changes the answer to half your questions... This thread is for the diyAudio boards, which will use mosfet output transistors and Jensen transformer.
To specifically answer your questions, choose an Antek transformer of 300 or 400 va, 18 or 20 volt secondaries, and preferably shielded (AS series)
CineMag cmoq-4hpc
SemiSouth R100 power jfet
1 Blue LED for bias
To specifically answer your questions, choose an Antek transformer of 300 or 400 va, 18 or 20 volt secondaries, and preferably shielded (AS series)
CineMag cmoq-4hpc
SemiSouth R100 power jfet
1 Blue LED for bias
Video update!
http://youtu.be/5gUv57xrID0
(Please excuse the mess on my bench - I can never keep tools organized while working)
This is a +/-20V test at about 1.1A total current. (It's as high as my baby bench PSU will go...) Things look and sound great. I needed a bit more bias voltage, hence why the LED has been put in series with the zeners. For the record, the Vgs of the IRF240 is 4.65V
The other PCB will be tested soon, perhaps even today. Once both are found to be happy, I'll attach a real amp PSU.
http://youtu.be/5gUv57xrID0
(Please excuse the mess on my bench - I can never keep tools organized while working)
This is a +/-20V test at about 1.1A total current. (It's as high as my baby bench PSU will go...) Things look and sound great. I needed a bit more bias voltage, hence why the LED has been put in series with the zeners. For the record, the Vgs of the IRF240 is 4.65V
The other PCB will be tested soon, perhaps even today. Once both are found to be happy, I'll attach a real amp PSU.
With that PSU? Nope. It's too small. I'm just making sure the PCB layout is operative.
This amp has 2 separate PCB, in order to keep the signal transformers all the way to the back and keep the output devices low on the heatsink. I'm checking both PCB at this time. That video is of the first board.
Once the other is assembled and tested, then I'll make a real amp PSU, assemble the stereo amplifier and get some measurements. With 24V rails and some real current capability it should easily make 25WPC 8ohm.
This amp has 2 separate PCB, in order to keep the signal transformers all the way to the back and keep the output devices low on the heatsink. I'm checking both PCB at this time. That video is of the first board.
Once the other is assembled and tested, then I'll make a real amp PSU, assemble the stereo amplifier and get some measurements. With 24V rails and some real current capability it should easily make 25WPC 8ohm.