I've ordered 2 types of locking banana plugs, we'll see how they work out...
Both look to be cheap copies of older style WBT plugs. They do not disappoint in my first impression as far as mechanical construction and fit and finish is concerned.
The straight Nakamichi (similar style as the Bluejeans Audio plugs) is a bit large for the receiving wire, but I knew that from a thread on Audiosciencereview.
Both look to be cheap copies of older style WBT plugs. They do not disappoint in my first impression as far as mechanical construction and fit and finish is concerned.
The straight Nakamichi (similar style as the Bluejeans Audio plugs) is a bit large for the receiving wire, but I knew that from a thread on Audiosciencereview.
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I've heard about that before, but personally I'm not so sure about it. I've read it on this side of the forum (full range) but you should see the connectors on the back of my amp. If it does any harm I guess I actually like that kind of harm
. It did not stand in the way of my listening pleasure. The thing I worry about is ensure a good electrical connection. So I'll just have to remember how a former fellow worker used to wire things up in our industrial applications. (using crimped cable end sleeves, locked with one of the screws, cable kept in place by the second screw. Exactly as described in the WBT manuals)
I did find a test that showed a simple style terminal block actually had the best (lowest) resistance values.
(as long as it was re-tightened at least once)
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i dunno 'bout the blob of metal not good for signal transfer thing but i'm onside with good quality low resistance contacts as someone who's done PA work for years, a good quality locking connector is worth it's weight in gold (hence big blobs of metal, the heavier the more costly)
but at the end of the day, for long term i like screw terminals...
but at the end of the day, for long term i like screw terminals...
I closed up the second array today and finished the impedance control measurements.
I could not figure out why the measurements of this array differed so much from the first array:
So I set both arrays upright again and ran the impedance tests one after the other:
(there's actually 4 measurements in there, 2 of the left and two of the right array. So they are close enough to call them the same.
I guess the temperature plays a large role here. It's chilly today but I wanted to finish this up)
The up close picture shows why I want to refinish the outside. The fiberglass mat structure and some seams show through the outside paint layer.
I will sand them ever so slightly and give them a fresh coat of epoxy (+ glass balloons) and paint.
I also measured the toe-in angles and corrected them to match the sim predictions and setup drawing:
I could not figure out why the measurements of this array differed so much from the first array:
So I set both arrays upright again and ran the impedance tests one after the other:
(there's actually 4 measurements in there, 2 of the left and two of the right array. So they are close enough to call them the same.
I guess the temperature plays a large role here. It's chilly today but I wanted to finish this up)
The up close picture shows why I want to refinish the outside. The fiberglass mat structure and some seams show through the outside paint layer.
I will sand them ever so slightly and give them a fresh coat of epoxy (+ glass balloons) and paint.
I also measured the toe-in angles and corrected them to match the sim predictions and setup drawing:
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To see if my impedance plots made sense, especially due to temperature differences, I looked on the net to see if someone tested this.
This post seems to confirm my suspicion...
A very similar move of the impedance peak. The difference in my two early tests was 17 degree and about 10 degree ambient temperature. Quite a shift. Not unexpected but still good to acknowledge.
This post seems to confirm my suspicion...
A very similar move of the impedance peak. The difference in my two early tests was 17 degree and about 10 degree ambient temperature. Quite a shift. Not unexpected but still good to acknowledge.
Cutting new seals for the front baffle to replace the front seal that came with the TC9 FD18-08.
Temperatures were low outside, so some in-between work to keep the idea of making progress. I have to say, seeing parts on the table again brings back good memories...
Even though this time it's just a filter tweak, the anticipation of what is to come feels familiar somehow. Parts keep rolling in to finish the speaker cables.
I've ordered some copper gold plated cable end sleeves and a crimp tool. Comparable to the WBT tool, just not gold plated and platinum priced.
The tool is still on it's way, even as some other bits and pieces.
Temperatures were low outside, so some in-between work to keep the idea of making progress. I have to say, seeing parts on the table again brings back good memories...
Even though this time it's just a filter tweak, the anticipation of what is to come feels familiar somehow
. Parts keep rolling in to finish the speaker cables.I've ordered some copper gold plated cable end sleeves and a crimp tool. Comparable to the WBT tool, just not gold plated and platinum priced
.The tool is still on it's way, even as some other bits and pieces.
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Funny how a simple remark could make me think of the obvious. As said, I'm wanting to avoid corrosion in speaker wires. I was running the brown see trough wire I had on hand (got it for free when I bought an amplifier for my car) and have experienced those type of wires going green with corrosion over time, even under the mantle.
Which made me go for the tin plated wires to begin with. However a test fit of those wires locked bare into my binding posts did not impress me. A bit of a messy connection to be honest. It's easy to bend/break individual strands etc.
This made me look for a better connection, hence the hunt for banana plugs and all that speak of gold plating etc.
But then it dawned upon me, using 2 differing materials with a different potential... usually not a very good idea. Just as I found when using aluminium and RVS, not a good match at all. The least noble material will start to corrode.
So I searched for tin plated in combination with gold plating...
See: Gold or Tin versus Gold and Tin?
(not even an audio site, just a connector manufacturer)
That site pretty much confirmed my suspicion it isn't smart to combine tin plated and gold plated parts in such a connection. So either I replace the tin plated cable or I don't terminate the tin plated cable with all of that fancy gold stuff. I think I might do both. That way I can (if I want to) test both to see if there are differences.
Pretty much a Duh... moment for me. As I still like the idea of copper, and have all the termination hardware to do it right, I might simply order a couple of meters of Canare 4s11. That won't break the bank, I can always solder the Nakamichi locking connectors to the tin plated wire for a comparison.
Which made me go for the tin plated wires to begin with. However a test fit of those wires locked bare into my binding posts did not impress me. A bit of a messy connection to be honest. It's easy to bend/break individual strands etc.
This made me look for a better connection, hence the hunt for banana plugs and all that speak of gold plating etc.
But then it dawned upon me, using 2 differing materials with a different potential... usually not a very good idea. Just as I found when using aluminium and RVS, not a good match at all. The least noble material will start to corrode.
So I searched for tin plated in combination with gold plating...
See: Gold or Tin versus Gold and Tin?
(not even an audio site, just a connector manufacturer)
That site pretty much confirmed my suspicion it isn't smart to combine tin plated and gold plated parts in such a connection. So either I replace the tin plated cable or I don't terminate the tin plated cable with all of that fancy gold stuff. I think I might do both. That way I can (if I want to) test both to see if there are differences.
Pretty much a Duh... moment for me. As I still like the idea of copper, and have all the termination hardware to do it right, I might simply order a couple of meters of Canare 4s11. That won't break the bank, I can always solder the Nakamichi locking connectors to the tin plated wire for a comparison.
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Back in the day - in my 2nd job out of engineering school, working for a military contractor - we used to talk about gas tight connections. I think that implied sufficient metal to metal interference between connector halves that guaranteed that, long term, oxidation would not decrease connectivity. Intuitively, that comes down to tight fitting plugs and sockets, ideally gold plated.
Right, I think the instructions from a firm like WBT make perfect sense. That made me remember how it was done on machinery I used to work on quite a while ago.
But I'll refrain from using tin plated wire like that and ordered a few metres of Canare 4S11. The only reason to go tin plated was corrosion protection, but I didn't think it trough, it being a bad idea to combine gold plating and tin plating as a connection.
It may still work when using a cable end sleeve, though the pure copper wire should also work well in that application.
From what I've read, Canare tends to be popular in Pro Audio.
But I'll refrain from using tin plated wire like that and ordered a few metres of Canare 4S11. The only reason to go tin plated was corrosion protection, but I didn't think it trough, it being a bad idea to combine gold plating and tin plating as a connection.
It may still work when using a cable end sleeve, though the pure copper wire should also work well in that application.
From what I've read, Canare tends to be popular in Pro Audio.
Preparing for a fresh coat of epoxy + paint...
It does look somewhat familiar. Don't mind the mess... I haven't taken the time to clean up yet. That will have to wait until the arrays are finished.
Sanding not quite done yet, but close. Maybe a first coat on Monday, then finishing up the refresh next weekend. Hopefully it will be quite a while until
I dream up the next update.
It does look somewhat familiar. Don't mind the mess... I haven't taken the time to clean up yet. That will have to wait until the arrays are finished.
Sanding not quite done yet, but close. Maybe a first coat on Monday, then finishing up the refresh next weekend. Hopefully it will be quite a while until
I dream up the next update.
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More sanding done today... I can't help but feel a bit proud, having build these .
It was done in a crazy period in my life, but I did get to build these to be proud of...
I think I'll manage an even better finish this time (practice makes perfect) and with the new addition of the added filters make them (sound) the best they have ever been.
I simply have no regrets (at all) of all the hours I've spend on these monsters. I've enjoyed this journey and have learned a lot from it in the process. Looking forward to put them back in action, I'll take my time to do every step once again, because I've learned it is worth it. In my humble opinion, the concept is solid and well worth the effort.
It truly has become a labor of love.
.It was done in a crazy period in my life, but I did get to build these to be proud of...
I think I'll manage an even better finish this time (practice makes perfect) and with the new addition of the added filters make them (sound) the best they have ever been.
I simply have no regrets (at all) of all the hours I've spend on these monsters. I've enjoyed this journey and have learned a lot from it in the process. Looking forward to put them back in action, I'll take my time to do every step once again, because I've learned it is worth it. In my humble opinion, the concept is solid and well worth the effort.
It truly has become a labor of love
.
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