The amps are installed in a very compact case within a subwoofer enclosure. They’re located near the outer wall, away from any heat sources. The fans start spinning when idle and, of course, stop once the temperature is back in range. I’m not too concerned with how much noise they do while music is playing.
Right. There are both PWM and standard voltage versions of these fans, and the PWM versions can also be driven with a standard voltage output. I would prefer to get non-PWM-model. I doubt that these are PWM driven.
I have done fan replacement to Crown XLS1500 amp and it works fine.
Maybe more difficult part is the disassembly, has anyone done that? And does 25mm thick fan fit?
Last edited:
Yes the fan i have is non pwn, these fans dont like to be voltage driven also.
They use always 12v and the pwn controller set the speed for them.
A 25x90mm fan will fit the oem fan is also 25x90mm, i look for what i need before i order the 90mm fan.
Assembly is not hard you need to remove the amp section wat is above the fan with the screws on the backside.
Then you can easy replace the fan the mounting holes are the same with a 90mm fan.
Look with first use the fan will spin in the good direction thats all, the airflow must go inside the amp not to ouside.
NF-A9 FLX from Noctua is very powerfull and silent, has very high airflow for that size of fan.
I use the FA502 amp for a dual opposed subwoofer.
They use always 12v and the pwn controller set the speed for them.
A 25x90mm fan will fit the oem fan is also 25x90mm, i look for what i need before i order the 90mm fan.
Assembly is not hard you need to remove the amp section wat is above the fan with the screws on the backside.
Then you can easy replace the fan the mounting holes are the same with a 90mm fan.
Look with first use the fan will spin in the good direction thats all, the airflow must go inside the amp not to ouside.
NF-A9 FLX from Noctua is very powerfull and silent, has very high airflow for that size of fan.
I use the FA502 amp for a dual opposed subwoofer.
Last edited:
That's the strange part - at my module they never spin when idle, even with good volume music they don't start, only when temperatures go pretty high.
Not sure if I remember right - couldn't the temperature range be switched on/off/controlled?
Otherwise it should be no problem to change the fan but they will not be that much lower in noise when you need to keep the air throughput at the same level.
Yeah, noisy fans was a really disappointment. Amps were checked at Hypex for faults as they were not behaving correctly at first. They are normal, just didn't like analog RCA-connections and unearthed power, XLR's are fine. There are no user controls for fans as far I know. Just some gray box that indicates that there is a fan. Temperature reading would be awesome.
I think it should be no problem to use these amps without any fan with at my listening levels, but not going to risk that. Tried to use that Crown amp without fan and it didn't like it - orange light for high temp came on and stopped fun.
I think it should be no problem to use these amps without any fan with at my listening levels, but not going to risk that. Tried to use that Crown amp without fan and it didn't like it - orange light for high temp came on and stopped fun.
Last edited:
I did it. Yey. Seems to work fine, at least it spins when I switch the amp on and off.
I cut the original cable in half, soldered it together to a extension cable, and applied heat shrink tubing over it. This had to be done with the cable pulled through the conduit.
Original fan model is Jamicon JF0925B1H--R.
I cut the original cable in half, soldered it together to a extension cable, and applied heat shrink tubing over it. This had to be done with the cable pulled through the conduit.
Original fan model is Jamicon JF0925B1H--R.
Just finished another one, and it works great! At half a meter away, I can hear the fan noise at night, but it's completely inaudible from my listening position. The amp seems to be running perfectly with the new fan, as it is on at about the same rate as before. Happy with the results.
Hi,
unfortunatley yesterday one of my fusion amps 253 seems to have broken.
the red clipping LED lights up when playing music and the bass distorts very strong. when i mute the bass amplifierer in HFD everything is ok.
i tried installing latest firmeware, used the analog in instead of digital in. always the same...
bass amplifier is clipping and distorting.
since hypex does not offer to repair products older than 5 years (i bought them in 2018) i can throw it in the trash. im really disapointed...
that leads to the question: is this a common defect?
is a new fa253 fully compatible with the older ones? i have the V1.5 firmeware product range in my other speaker
unfortunatley yesterday one of my fusion amps 253 seems to have broken.
the red clipping LED lights up when playing music and the bass distorts very strong. when i mute the bass amplifierer in HFD everything is ok.
i tried installing latest firmeware, used the analog in instead of digital in. always the same...
bass amplifier is clipping and distorting.
since hypex does not offer to repair products older than 5 years (i bought them in 2018) i can throw it in the trash. im really disapointed...
that leads to the question: is this a common defect?
is a new fa253 fully compatible with the older ones? i have the V1.5 firmeware product range in my other speaker
"that leads to the question: is this a common defect?" I had one of mine do that and hypex repaired it for free (i had to pay shipping).
I guess warranty can't last forever. You could use/sell it as a 252 surely?
There is a new dsp listed for a 4way. It looks the same as the one in the plate amp.
https://www.hypex.nl/products/dsp-family/dsp3-224
@electrisizer maybe you can buy just the amp from a seller and pop it in?
I asked Hypex before I upgraded to FIR versions. This is what I got:
"NcoreX for our new series of FusionAmps is planned to be implemented around Q4 of 2025."
"NcoreX for our new series of FusionAmps is planned to be implemented around Q4 of 2025."
Can anyone clarify how the Hypex remote kits work?
I got two kits and plan to install one in both the master and the slave.
I understand only the master will receive/execute the remote commands, for both the master and the slave. So the IR receiver and controller will not work in the slave. Right?
But will the indicator LED work on both and display the status? And the status will be per speaker?
I got two kits and plan to install one in both the master and the slave.
I understand only the master will receive/execute the remote commands, for both the master and the slave. So the IR receiver and controller will not work in the slave. Right?
But will the indicator LED work on both and display the status? And the status will be per speaker?
Last edited:
Thanks! I assume the remote kit (not the display kit) will do the same?
What is still not clear is if the indication will be per speaker, e.g. if one speaker overheats, will it indicate just on that one, or both will indicate overheating?
What is still not clear is if the indication will be per speaker, e.g. if one speaker overheats, will it indicate just on that one, or both will indicate overheating?
Upgrading the power amps on the plate amps only makes really sense when they improve the D/A converters at least 10dB. As far as I know this will not happen.
But getting an improved version of the powered amp modules would be nice for multichannel amp building!