Its bigger 6 inch brother is even better https://www.bmsspeakers.com/fileadm...160_2011-04_neodymium_low_midrange_driver.pdf and is beautifully linear over 150 Hz to 4KHz at 93dB sensitivity... In an MTM with a Beyma TPL 200 in between, you have a killer 99dB midrange and 100dB AMT tweeter combination. The reason you jump from 93 dB to 99dB when using two midrange in parallel is you gain 3dB from a doubling of Sd / cone area, plus another 3dB from the reduction in impedance from 8 Ohm to 4 Ohm. The 6 inch still has great 11.7g / 11.3 Bl ratio of almost 1:1.
Hello ? Not too shooty paper sound ?
what do you think about the BMS 5S117 , i.e. the ferrite 16 ohms iterration, please ?
Looking for a good 5 to 6" midrange 8 ohms or higher R with true 91dB/2,83V or higher in the low mid. I would had pickup the 7" SS 18M4631T00 if active but I am going to passive.
what do you think about the BMS 5S117 , i.e. the ferrite 16 ohms iterration, please ?
Looking for a good 5 to 6" midrange 8 ohms or higher R with true 91dB/2,83V or higher in the low mid. I would had pickup the 7" SS 18M4631T00 if active but I am going to passive.
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That's exactly the topic I spent plenty of time in the last years on - and I'm finally pretty happy with my room and my speakers!
First - it always starts with the room. You have to decide which concept you want to realise! Have a look and read: https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/sos-guide-control-room-design
I went with a non environment room. If you REALLY want to hear what's in your audio files that's the way to go in my opinion. And my room is small - it was the only good choice for me anyway ;-).
Blending out most of the room reflections (be careful with the table) gives a lot of "truth" to your listening. It's different as in a living room of course but it translates very good in my experience. You hear details I could not recognise in other rooms and with other speakers.
Start with Philip Newells Book if you are interested, he is one of the pioneers in building these rooms. You NEED a hard front wall and speakers sitting IN the wall. But this saves A LOT of space, I integrated big monitors in the front wall and can sit pretty close to the front.
I used broadband compact absorbers (BCA) cause they waste less space - if you have enough space you can also use light, fluffy stuff with 50-100cm thickness. That's also a nice thing about non environment rooms - they are easy to design. 2 hard surfaces, all the others absorb as good as possible. That's easy doable.
But don't think that 1m of absorption frees you from the 2-3 main room resonances! It doesn't. I tried. Made hundreds of measurements. Even with an absorption factor of 0,7-0,8 at these frequencies (which you don't achieve), the resonance is still there (but of course decays quickly).
The solution is pretty easy, often used in high end home cinema installations but still not so common in Studio environments - a double bass array. You put 6 subwoofers (maybe 8 with your room size) in/on the frontwall of your room and produce an even soundwave (for low frequencies) - and you chancelled the room resonances for left/right and up/down dimension. Then put 6 more at the back of your room and put the right delay and phase reverse on them - and they chancel the front wave and you can chancel the front/back room resonance.
As we talk from building a room and speakers - that's WAY cheaper as good bass absorption down to 30Hz and works better.
And yes - low frequency speakers are a ROOM topic! You always have to think about room integration below your Schroeder frequency if you want to achieve seriously linear bass response (frequency and impuls response).
First - it always starts with the room. You have to decide which concept you want to realise! Have a look and read: https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/sos-guide-control-room-design
I went with a non environment room. If you REALLY want to hear what's in your audio files that's the way to go in my opinion. And my room is small - it was the only good choice for me anyway ;-).
Blending out most of the room reflections (be careful with the table) gives a lot of "truth" to your listening. It's different as in a living room of course but it translates very good in my experience. You hear details I could not recognise in other rooms and with other speakers.
Start with Philip Newells Book if you are interested, he is one of the pioneers in building these rooms. You NEED a hard front wall and speakers sitting IN the wall. But this saves A LOT of space, I integrated big monitors in the front wall and can sit pretty close to the front.
I used broadband compact absorbers (BCA) cause they waste less space - if you have enough space you can also use light, fluffy stuff with 50-100cm thickness. That's also a nice thing about non environment rooms - they are easy to design. 2 hard surfaces, all the others absorb as good as possible. That's easy doable.
But don't think that 1m of absorption frees you from the 2-3 main room resonances! It doesn't. I tried. Made hundreds of measurements. Even with an absorption factor of 0,7-0,8 at these frequencies (which you don't achieve), the resonance is still there (but of course decays quickly).
The solution is pretty easy, often used in high end home cinema installations but still not so common in Studio environments - a double bass array. You put 6 subwoofers (maybe 8 with your room size) in/on the frontwall of your room and produce an even soundwave (for low frequencies) - and you chancelled the room resonances for left/right and up/down dimension. Then put 6 more at the back of your room and put the right delay and phase reverse on them - and they chancel the front wave and you can chancel the front/back room resonance.
As we talk from building a room and speakers - that's WAY cheaper as good bass absorption down to 30Hz and works better.
And yes - low frequency speakers are a ROOM topic! You always have to think about room integration below your Schroeder frequency if you want to achieve seriously linear bass response (frequency and impuls response).
2nd part of your question - the speaker.
I'm also using Bliesma speakers after a long journey - their T25B is the best tweeter I know (higer membrane resonance as the ScanSpeak Beryllium, but these have lower fs). I also like the sound of AMTs - but they always have uneven angular dispersion. And that's not acceptable (for me) if your goal is to make as few mistakes as possible with your design.
The Bliesma Beryllium tweeter has a lot of detail up to the listening borders without any hint of membrane sound or resonances. Similar resonance free as a ring raditor tweeter but with better hf dispersion.
Midrange - at the moment I use the 2,5" MD60N but will switch to Bliesma 3". It's simply the way to go in 2022. I have the alu and silk version here for measurements and listening tests (use the alu for a different project), just put some measurements in the M74 post. Beryllium is not available, they hope for membranes in October.
The silk version doesn't deliver the details it needs for such a project. The membrane is less stable as I remember the ATCs, it produces some "sound" (not terrible but more as I expected). Good for nice listening with a glass of wine - not for searching the "truth".
The aluminium version sounds great! But as cost is not a real object here ... go with Beryllium.
Low frequencies ... as we already know that a room integrated low frequency system is the best you can do 😎 - you need a driver between 80/100Hz and about 450-500Hz. I just have the SB Acoustics 12" here which does a phenomenal job. Take 2 of these and you can also use the speakers without the bass array. PHL has very good 10" drivers with higher sensitivity and very low THD. But not enough Xmax to use fullrange.
If you insist on free standing speakers 😉 you have different options but it will always be a kind of 4way system. I made a concept with 4 12" speakers, 2 in front and 2 on the back, all in closed volumes. This does some vibration cancellation but more importantly has different lambda/4 resonances for every speaker and gives a more even frequency response in the room.
So in short - get your HF and MF right and get them as close together as possible! I even cut the faceplate of my mid frequency drivers redice distance 1-2cm.
Get all resonances out of your listening area. Low frequency drivers and cab follows your concept.
I also use Hypex plate amps - they are sonically very good, esp. when used with the digital input! But a pain to use and program. There is a 2nd company in this quality range from Germany, will have a look, just forgot the name.
I'm also using Bliesma speakers after a long journey - their T25B is the best tweeter I know (higer membrane resonance as the ScanSpeak Beryllium, but these have lower fs). I also like the sound of AMTs - but they always have uneven angular dispersion. And that's not acceptable (for me) if your goal is to make as few mistakes as possible with your design.
The Bliesma Beryllium tweeter has a lot of detail up to the listening borders without any hint of membrane sound or resonances. Similar resonance free as a ring raditor tweeter but with better hf dispersion.
Midrange - at the moment I use the 2,5" MD60N but will switch to Bliesma 3". It's simply the way to go in 2022. I have the alu and silk version here for measurements and listening tests (use the alu for a different project), just put some measurements in the M74 post. Beryllium is not available, they hope for membranes in October.
The silk version doesn't deliver the details it needs for such a project. The membrane is less stable as I remember the ATCs, it produces some "sound" (not terrible but more as I expected). Good for nice listening with a glass of wine - not for searching the "truth".
The aluminium version sounds great! But as cost is not a real object here ... go with Beryllium.
Low frequencies ... as we already know that a room integrated low frequency system is the best you can do 😎 - you need a driver between 80/100Hz and about 450-500Hz. I just have the SB Acoustics 12" here which does a phenomenal job. Take 2 of these and you can also use the speakers without the bass array. PHL has very good 10" drivers with higher sensitivity and very low THD. But not enough Xmax to use fullrange.
If you insist on free standing speakers 😉 you have different options but it will always be a kind of 4way system. I made a concept with 4 12" speakers, 2 in front and 2 on the back, all in closed volumes. This does some vibration cancellation but more importantly has different lambda/4 resonances for every speaker and gives a more even frequency response in the room.
So in short - get your HF and MF right and get them as close together as possible! I even cut the faceplate of my mid frequency drivers redice distance 1-2cm.
Get all resonances out of your listening area. Low frequency drivers and cab follows your concept.
I also use Hypex plate amps - they are sonically very good, esp. when used with the digital input! But a pain to use and program. There is a 2nd company in this quality range from Germany, will have a look, just forgot the name.
Making great speakers is hard, making great studio room is hard, getting both right is even harder!
If you haven't design and already build a proper studio, and a speaker, I'd suggest to hire a competent acoustician and just buy some great monitors (ATC, Genelec etc.) or hire someone here to help you. Buying ATC you get a 6 years warranty for example!
You can BUILD your room and your speakers YOUR SELF. BUT DESIGNING IS THE HARDEST PART!
If you design is wrong, so you build will be.
You take a big risk of not reaching your goals.
It's very time consuming (just designing a room is already a 2 years full time job to get all competences).
It will cost LOT of money! Throwing lot of cash in a bad room costs more than spending the same money in a good room!
If you haven't design and already build a proper studio, and a speaker, I'd suggest to hire a competent acoustician and just buy some great monitors (ATC, Genelec etc.) or hire someone here to help you. Buying ATC you get a 6 years warranty for example!
You can BUILD your room and your speakers YOUR SELF. BUT DESIGNING IS THE HARDEST PART!
If you design is wrong, so you build will be.
You take a big risk of not reaching your goals.
It's very time consuming (just designing a room is already a 2 years full time job to get all competences).
It will cost LOT of money! Throwing lot of cash in a bad room costs more than spending the same money in a good room!
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