Universal Outboard Power Chassis for Pass

[Halauhula]

Neurochrome Audio has a speaker protection board, one channel, which takes a large range of DC voltages for power. Neurochrome Audio

 

[TungstenAudio]

Speaker protection isn’t necessary. It often causes its own problems.
Can anyone spot speaker protection circuits in the commercial First Watt amplifiers?

Careful amplifier setup and setting of bias current will establish a safe amplifier.

 

[Holzarbeiter]

Heavily discussed... There are also many different types of Neutrik jacks.

It seems Neutrik has become obsolete and unavailable.

 

[ItsAllInMyHead]

^ News to me... Heck, from what I can tell they're still launching new products. I fully admit to not being 'in the know' though.

 

[rdb64]

For the 4-conductor speakON (what I'm using):
These are the cable connectors
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NL4FXX-W-S?qs=Jm2GQyTW/bgvomtPSYACEw==
and these are the chassis connectors
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NL4MPXX?qs=hWgE7mdIu5T06nBoAaUABg==

 

[Holzarbeiter]

All the usual sources are out or obsolete. I used to get from PartsConnexion

rdb64:

You are a genius. I looked at Mouser under Neutrik and failed. I see you searched under Connectors/ Loudspeaker.

 

[rdb64]

For umbilicals, I used 4-conductor 14 AWG shielded cable with Neutrik speakON cable connectors. They're 2.5 feet long.

 

[rdb64]

I'll have the monoblock amps built this coming weekend. (I already have built and tested F4, F5, and Aleph J amp boards.)

 

[rdb64]

Here are the monoblock amps, using F4 boards. The 2 monoblocks are now working with the PSU chassis and playing music (that I'm listening to now). The capacitors are 18,000 uF (same value as used in the DC filter). All DC power wiring is 16 AWG stranded; the speaker output wiring is 18 AWG stranded; and the signal input wiring is RG-174 coaxial. Any critique or suggestions for improvement are most welcome.

 

[Zen Mod]

GND takeout from caps to channel pcb must be in middle of that short bridge wire

route separate GND wire from back connector to each cap, so that bridge wire is not having pulsating currents, so clean GND

practically , add another white wire, leading from powercon to right cap neg, relocate white wire going to channel pcb

 

[rdb64]

Thank you so much, @Zen Mod. I assume the best way to do that is to use uninsulated wire for the short bridge and then just solder the white wire (from the amp PCB) to the center of the (uninsulated) bridge wire.

 

[Zen Mod]

yup

don't forget another white to right cap from powercon

 

[Holzarbeiter]

GND takeout from caps to channel pcb must be in middle of that short bridge wire

route separate GND wire from back connector to each cap, so that bridge wire is not having pulsating currents, so clean GND

practically , add another white wire, leading from powercon to right cap neg, relocate white wire going to channel pcb

 

[rdb64]

I'm thinking now I'll use a small copper plate instead of an uninsulated wire.

 

[Zen Mod]

yeah

and take out point on very edge, as furthest as possible from cap screws

 

[william2001]

No conections inside dotted line.

 

[pinholer]

I would route the + and - supply wires from the capacitors to the white ground wire and then along it (twisted) to the board and then against the edge of the board to the connection points at the left and right. This would reduce loop areas.

Ideally, the + and - power points on the board would be co-located with the ground.

At least, that's how I would do it.

 

[rdb64]

Any suggestion on how thick the copper should be? And whether it's better to use the 101 alloy or if the 110 alloy is fine?

 

[Halauhula]

Doing a web search, 101 copper is oxygen free and has excellent electrical conductivity, annd has ann International Annealed Copper Standard conductivity rating of 101%. It can be easily soldered and welded. However, it is soft and difficult to machine, which means drilling or pinching holes in it will be more difficult than 110 copper.

110 copper also has good electrical conductivity at 100%+ IACS conductivity, and can be soldered to but not welded.

It seems that the decision will rest on whether you value the slight increase in conductivity that 101 copper offers, and hog you intend to fabricate and use your bus bar (eg, if you intend to punch/drill holes in the copper bus bar to attach to the capacitor terminals).

 

[Zen Mod]

do not overthink

take anything which looks as copper, or aluminum

Al even better, not loosing a sleep about chemical corrosion between two dissimilar..

say 2mm thick, and more