I'm about to try a crossover upgrade from my Von Schweikert VR1 bookshelf speakers.
However, Im not sure of the cap value.
Has anyone done this to this speaker? It's getting on in age now but I quite like its presentation and having done crossover cap upgrades before I know how much it can improve a speaker's performance.
TIA for any info anyone might have.
However, Im not sure of the cap value.
Has anyone done this to this speaker? It's getting on in age now but I quite like its presentation and having done crossover cap upgrades before I know how much it can improve a speaker's performance.
TIA for any info anyone might have.
I don't know the 'Vintage Age' of your speakers, but using a Multimeter that measures capacitance
you can start to investigate whether capacitors of question resemble anything like standard values.
A long time ago 3 & 5uf were standard values, where today 3.3 & 4.7uF are standard values. 10uF has remained.
I would have thought some kind of labeling would be visible (?)
A photo of your speakers and/or crossover would probably help other members to help you
PS.
You are definitely correct that replacing capacitors in old speakers can make a huge improvement.
you can start to investigate whether capacitors of question resemble anything like standard values.
A long time ago 3 & 5uf were standard values, where today 3.3 & 4.7uF are standard values. 10uF has remained.
I would have thought some kind of labeling would be visible (?)
A photo of your speakers and/or crossover would probably help other members to help you
PS.
You are definitely correct that replacing capacitors in old speakers can make a huge improvement.
Just for you´r information.
Albert Von Schweikert was the best man on earth building xover´s, all large companies use his skills.
Albert often used Solen caps and Bennic in combinations ( from madisound)
You can mesaure the values if they are still correct, and change if its not.
But don´t think you can "upgrade" Alberts xover because he was "the best" at it.
Here is a mid/twee xover from VR 4/ VR 5-7, and the woofers xover.
John
Attachments
Do you know about Alberts history and his journey through life?
I stand behind my words until im under ground with a stone over me.
The caps in the VR1s aren't anything special. Guess they were built to a price. Easier to put better caps and components in the spendier speakers further up the range.
I've tried this before in relatively inexpensive speakers with similar low-end Bennics or whatnot and a move to medium range Mundorfs made a clearly audible improvement in sonics and these were just Niles ceiling speakers.
I've tried this before in relatively inexpensive speakers with similar low-end Bennics or whatnot and a move to medium range Mundorfs made a clearly audible improvement in sonics and these were just Niles ceiling speakers.
It's not about that, we discuss xover knowledge/science !
Being extremely good at building crossover filters is about utilizing every driver's capacity to the maximum in every way.
And Albert had the ability to make even a cheap driver sound like a really expensive one.
Albert designed transducers and/or crossover systems for Polk, Klipsch, JBL, ESS Heil, Infinity, Apogee, Cerwin Vega, Jensen, NHT and many others. While designing for Counterpoint Electronics, Von Schweikert won his first “Product of the Year Award,” for his Lucas Film THX design
https://parttimeaudiophile.com/2020/05/31/albert-von-schweikert-1945-2020-announcements/
It's a pity you weren't closer. I'd help you open it up and take a look.
As you will be looking to replace caps, why not open it up (remove woofer) and see if it is easy to remove the board? What I would do is search for VR1 crossover schematic, and see if anyone has plotted out the crossover topology. With that in mind, you can then target which capacitors you want to replace (many people just focus on tweeter caps). You might (depending on age) want to desolder and measure all capacitor (and resistor) values to see if any have wandered out of value and replace those (put in a single order).
Have you thought about which capacitors you want to go for as shipping to NZ is rather expensive.
No need, just remove the panel at the back and the xover is yours. One coil is poorly attached to the pcb and will likely need reattaching with cable binders. The parts and wires are of a basic quality so replacing them with higher quality ones of the same value should help. I would not go all out though, the VR1 drivers have plastic chassis so there soon comes a point where trading up to a better speaker makes more sense.
I have removed them. It’s just the cap value isn’t easy to see without desoldering it. Caps and resistors are light, as are wires. Can get it all from Aussie. Just thought someone would know the cap value.
Are resistors worth upgrading?
Also, should I replace iron core inductors with air core?
what wire is best?
Are resistors worth upgrading?
Also, should I replace iron core inductors with air core?
what wire is best?
Iron core has very low resistance, you will replace it with air core with higher resistace. It may or may not be good.
Unless there are electrolytic (bipolar) capacitors, there is no need to replace any parts. Especially resistors.
Why are you calling it 'upgrading' when all you do is messing things up.
Unless there are electrolytic (bipolar) capacitors, there is no need to replace any parts. Especially resistors.
Why are you calling it 'upgrading' when all you do is messing things up.
It just means that they are value end drivers. Troels was quite content with the model he designed with plastic basket value drivers from SB.REALLY >
that sounds pretty bad
Regarding crossover components, better caps are worth trying, resistors are a maybe if the existing ones are sand cast which think they are (I have the VR1s but it was a while ago that I looked at the crossovers). I would leave the iron core inductors alone, they are used for the mid bass and going air core will add dcr and thus reduce low frequency/mid output, which for this speaker is a no no.
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Swapping to different caps will likely change the sound, especially for tweeter caps. But is it 'upgrade' ?
Unless you measure before and after, documenting improvement by flatter response or lower distortion, all 'upgrade' is just your imagination.
It seems to me you have the itch, go for it, scratch it.