Seems pretty reasonable, thanks. The Superior Electric posts list at $32 per locally.
Yes, the copper ones are I got are.Are those 100% non-magnetic? Source/details? Thanks!
...I got them on Ebay, but they're showing as no longer available.Yes, the copper ones are I got are.
I also think the EIZZ is great and have already bought it a second time. What you should bear in mind, however, is that the plate where the connection is to be installed is at least 2mm. In the Modushop housings, for example, the steel is only 1.5mm, so you have to do some tricks. I find that a bit annoying with the EIZZ..EIZZ EZ-301 Gold plated OFC Copper Binding posts Ø16mm x 61mm (Pair) - 11.90 €
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/bind...r-binding-posts-o16mm-x-61mm-pair-p-9899.html
View attachment 1176975
ETI BP-20C Binding Post Gold Plated Pure Copper Ø19mm (Pair) - 64.90 €
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/bind...ld-plated-pure-copper-o19mm-pair-p-12786.html
View attachment 1176978
I like the idea of some banana types because they can have a larger contact area. It is one thing to get voltage across a connection, but it is another get current across as well. Here you might have these big speaker cables and for what? At the end some connectors provide less area than others for the current transfer.
I have again paid for speakers who's terminal stick out. Meaning I can't reasonably lay them down on their backs for transport. This isn't what I want. They also don't use links, but instead have a switch. A part known to of been a problem, so actually I have to make some links. Which need further thought due to them hanging out the back.
I like the stubby posts that have the hole for bare wires or 4mm nana's, that let the cables fall away towards the floor. It's quite rare to find them orientated correctly it seems, but that can usually be fixed. Cost doesn't seem important in this area. The right parts are actually cheap.
I like the stubby posts that have the hole for bare wires or 4mm nana's, that let the cables fall away towards the floor. It's quite rare to find them orientated correctly it seems, but that can usually be fixed. Cost doesn't seem important in this area. The right parts are actually cheap.
You're quite correct, although the matter could be probably explored further.At the end some connectors provide less area than others for the current transfer.
I'm just a fairly expert amateur, but as far as I know what should be considered is also that the contact point is very short in any type of connection between two male-female connectors or even screw connectors and that extreme brevity does not compromise enough the passage of (high) current.
Personally I do not use bananas because I prefer tinned copper ring terminals crimped, whete the larger the diameter of the cable, the greater their thickness will be.
If you have to connect/disconnect many times a day, perhaps for work, banana plugs are surely much more convenient.
The first time that I saw decent push/spring terminals was on a pair of JBL speakers that I bought. They commanded contact with high pressure. Once you got a bare wire in there, you needn't worry further. If I had a preference for another type of connector besides banana, I think that a well executed spade, just like you said, using copper with a good plating over it, and a proper crimp (this is where I see most compromises occur). Just for aesthetics, a shrink tube over the barrel part of the connection will help reduce oxidation effects. In this case however, I would be strongly inclined to use a winged speaker post. The Levinson power amp that I owned years ago had this and made a convert out of me.
does anybody know of a good source for the barrier strip type terminals sometimes seen on older studio monitors . sometimes they were on ghe front of the monitor to make it easier to wire in a soffit mounted speaker I assume
For project speakers I like drilling holes in the back panel to fit the cables, then wire nuts connecting to the speaker cables to the amplifier.
For finished speakers I like SpeakOn connections.
Thanks DT
For finished speakers I like SpeakOn connections.
Thanks DT
Not sure which exact kind you mean but here is a good selection in Europe.does anybody know of a good source for the barrier strip type terminals sometimes seen on older studio monitors
https://no.rs-online.com/web/c/conn...1oQ_gmS9_N6TdlXHGGB38gEVYnwp6jzHgrlUqIwk1gaZd
If you don't mind the looks and required 35mm DIN below for mounting. Quick, eay to connect and modify, reuseable, strain relief included, vibraTion resistant and a high current carrying capacity (30 amp@300VAC).
28-12 AWG.
Or 2-10 AWG.
Example:
https://www.damencnc.com/en/wago-221-2505-mounting-carrier-with-strain-relief-5-way/a5197
thankyou I think I was using the wrong terminology wire nut type things is what I meant .For project speakers I like drilling holes in the back panel to fit the cables, then wire nuts connecting to the speaker cables to the amplifier.
For finished speakers I like SpeakOn connections.
Thanks DT
and thankyou arez
thank-you arez ,the first type is what I meant but the second type is even better didn't realise there was such a convient way to mount a wago !Not sure which exact kind you mean but here is a good selection in Europe.
https://no.rs-online.com/web/c/conn...1oQ_gmS9_N6TdlXHGGB38gEVYnwp6jzHgrlUqIwk1gaZd
If you don't mind the looks and required 35mm DIN below for mounting. Quick, eay to connect and modify, reuseable, strain relief included, vibraTion resistant and a high current carrying capacity (30 amp@300VAC).
28-12 AWG.
Or 2-10 AWG.
Example:
https://www.damencnc.com/en/wago-221-2505-mounting-carrier-with-strain-relief-5-way/a5197
Sure, here is the complete catalogue for the 221 series WAGO attachments.thank-you arez ,the first type is what I meant but the second type is even better didn't realise there was such a convient way to mount a wago !
1 to 5 ways, with different fastening methods.
Includes screw mounting directly too or the DIN attachment clips.
with/without strain relief etc.
There is also the 221-500, only for 35mm DIN.
They also have Wago gelboxes if exposed to humid enviornments. for example the 207-1372 for the 221 series, gets you IP8X rating.
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WAGO is the way to go.
I use them nearly daily for speaker cables and temporary crossover creations.
https://www.wago.com/us/wire-splicing-connectors/compact-splicing-connector/p/221-413
I use them nearly daily for speaker cables and temporary crossover creations.
https://www.wago.com/us/wire-splicing-connectors/compact-splicing-connector/p/221-413
That's a nice item, I have used similar to before.Visaton is offering ST77, a solidly built single wire terminal. It holds a x/o pcb.
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I have a dream, where that 104mm is the 102mm of a common hole cutter.
My advice is kind of generic. Avoid very hard coatings like nickel or rhodium. They have a hard time gripping when screwed down. Copper, gold and silver over brass do better.
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