In the past I've soldered 10AWG wire to thick copper binding posts and it took long time to get the wire and connector hot enough for the solder to make a good joint. The wire insulation melted a bit and the copper changed color. Now I'm thinking that tining the wire and the connector before soldering them would only reguire that the solder on the tined components only need to reach the solder melting point to make a good joint. Does that make sense.
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Try it but the metal has to get to the melting point regardless if it
has been pre-tinned so I don't see the point. Perhaps some flux
besides what is in the solder would help. Soldering large wire and
connectors benefits a lot from good tools. This would be no problem
at all with a Metcal and a large tip. A cheapy 25 Watt iron would be
nearly useless.
G²
has been pre-tinned so I don't see the point. Perhaps some flux
besides what is in the solder would help. Soldering large wire and
connectors benefits a lot from good tools. This would be no problem
at all with a Metcal and a large tip. A cheapy 25 Watt iron would be
nearly useless.
G²
I have a Metcal PS900 and a variety of tips from small to large but it still takes some time when soldering 10AWG wire to thick copper binding posts. It would seem that soldering the tined wire and tined connector would ensure that, as long as the solder melts, there would not be a cold solder joint.
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Yes, I do it all the time, since forever (think 50 years +)
If anything, because you often need 3 hands: solder wire + wire + soldering iron while pretinned parts, loaded with enough solder for the joint (not just surface tinning) and even a little rosin still remaining needs just two and is much faster.
I DO see the point, big time (and after having assembled more than 14000 amplifiers)
When soldering bare copper, or old tinned surfaces (often electrolitically tinned such as semiconductor legs and many other components, such as ceramic capacitors), a light oxide layer has already started forming even before reaching solder melting temperature, which needs being dissolved/reduced by flux/rosin.
It works better the hotter you get, which is typically above plain melting temperature.
If "just melting" solder were enough, no flux/rosin would be added to every soldering job.
Pretinning all parts involved helps avoid so called cold solder joints, which often are plain "dirty surface joints", where flux/surfaces were not hot enough for cleaning action to happen..
I use a brass wire brush or gentle file to abrade the surface, then tin both parts of the joint using flux, then use an iron, I have 25/35/50/80W irons, so choose best fit, bigger for heavy wires.
600+ grit carbide paper works too.
Old parts from storage need to be cleaned of residue very thoroughly, then tinned.
Excess flux should be removed, it is corrosive.
The idea is that excess heat during soldering does not damage parts, most data sheets give you 10 seconds or so to finish.
So a pre tinned joint is preferred.
600+ grit carbide paper works too.
Old parts from storage need to be cleaned of residue very thoroughly, then tinned.
Excess flux should be removed, it is corrosive.
The idea is that excess heat during soldering does not damage parts, most data sheets give you 10 seconds or so to finish.
So a pre tinned joint is preferred.
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You want better contact or a bigger iron. Don't try to dig a canal with a trowel.
I know #10 would challenge my 45W iron, even before your thick post.
Last time I soldered #6 to a (tractor) fusebox, I realized the 240W Weller wasn't going to do it. I used the 310W Vulcan. In the sun. On a hot day. Nearly got heat castration.
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Old time brass radiators were soldered back after cleaning using blow lamps, or tips heated over coal.
Dilute Hydrochloric acid was the flux, no rosin nonsense.
Restaurants use thick plates for frying.
In other words, heat capacity, loss of heat energy during use counts, you need to be sure the working area does not get too cold during joining.
Dilute Hydrochloric acid was the flux, no rosin nonsense.
Restaurants use thick plates for frying.
In other words, heat capacity, loss of heat energy during use counts, you need to be sure the working area does not get too cold during joining.
To simpliify my question. If three tinned wires were connected with a wire nut wouldn't they have continuity?
You went from soldering to wire nuts, totally different process.
Both will give you continuity, so will terminal blocks.
So be clear about your intentions.
Both will give you continuity, so will terminal blocks.
So be clear about your intentions.
This is my question with pics. In the 2nd pic, wouldn't heating the tined wire and binding post, such that the tining liquifies and more solder is added, result in a good connection? This would be a much quicker process than the tining of the wire and post.
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It is not faster, at all, you´ll have to wait to make sure solder "takes" (wets surfaces properly); it´s actually faster doing it right from the beginning: tin terminal, tin wire, join them,melt the whole thing and add more solder if needed to fill space.
As of the wire nuts, simply to leave that question aside, in that case raw wire is much better than pretinned with a soldering iron, because it´s softer, more flexible, and so you have higher/better surface contact, pretinned becomes too rigid,it may even tear wire nut inner surface, ugh!!!.
As of the wire nuts, simply to leave that question aside, in that case raw wire is much better than pretinned with a soldering iron, because it´s softer, more flexible, and so you have higher/better surface contact, pretinned becomes too rigid,it may even tear wire nut inner surface, ugh!!!.
I've soldered tinned #6 stranded wire to tinned copper lugs with my closed loop Weller iron, and had no trouble at all.
So now we are on the same page. The intent of my original question was: with the tined wire in the tined post, do I only need to get both hot enough to get the tining solder liquified and then add some more solder? That would take much less time and wouldn't melt the insulation.
Make the joint mechanically sound then feed your hot iron through 60/40 Multicore solder to form a smooth shiny coating.
That is how to solder tinned copper wire to a tinned copper post or indeed another wire.
The main reason for the extra solder is to ensure the joint is covered and the flux helps the heat flow quickly.
Yes you can rely on the 5thou of tin coating the wire/post but I won't. As it is my profession, I like a joint to last and not fall apart as soon as we get vibration and have to do it all over again free of charge to the disgruntled client that we may never see again.
I relie on good workmanship for a good, untarnished reputation.
Post 12 is how not to solder. Tin the post and the wire, insert the wire into the opening and use more solder and plent of flux. Flux can be cleaned off simply with IPA unless you use NoClean flxed Multicore solder of course. The joint MUST be shiny and clean.
That is how to solder tinned copper wire to a tinned copper post or indeed another wire.
The main reason for the extra solder is to ensure the joint is covered and the flux helps the heat flow quickly.
Yes you can rely on the 5thou of tin coating the wire/post but I won't. As it is my profession, I like a joint to last and not fall apart as soon as we get vibration and have to do it all over again free of charge to the disgruntled client that we may never see again.
I relie on good workmanship for a good, untarnished reputation.
Post 12 is how not to solder. Tin the post and the wire, insert the wire into the opening and use more solder and plent of flux. Flux can be cleaned off simply with IPA unless you use NoClean flxed Multicore solder of course. The joint MUST be shiny and clean.