TABAQ TL for Tangband

I am still playing around with the FaitalPro 4FE32 8ohm. I am trying to get more bass out of this driver as what I hear is less then with the TB 315E. With the sub on it sounds ok. I'm back to no BCS and 64 grams of stuffing, I was up to 74.

Perceval, you posted your sim of this driver but I cannot see all the parameters you placed into the program. Guess I am wondering were is or was the starting point as far as the sim goes? I went as far as a BCS of 1.0 mH and 3.9 Ohm and have had the stuffing at 60 and 75 grams. There is some bass, but not near enough, there should be at least what comes out of my TB 3 inch I would think? Oh, the enclosure is the original with the driver at 20.3 from top.

I have ordered the mic UMM-6 USB so that will help me figure out what is going on, but it will take ten days or so to arrive. Eventually, once I can test with a mic it might tell me this won't work in a TABAQ, but the specs indicate otherwise. Any suggestions from the forum are welcome.
 
I continue to try so here is what I have done;

64 grams stuffing throughout
4 db attenuation 3.9 ohm and 1.0mH
6 db attenuation 6.8 ohm and 1.5 mH

The 6 db helps with the higher frequencies for sure. For now it is staying there. I find that these drivers have really live mids and highs, without a BSC your eardrums will burnout in no time. Bass is a bit better. Will increase in stuffing help with lows or hinder?
 
A little stuffing cleans up the bass output.

Too much will kill it.

The sim showed the Faital should have about the same bass output as your old TB. But since the Faital are much higher in efficiency, they will sound a bit bright.

Do wait for your mic. Then, instead of shooting in the dark, you'll know exactly what to do.

I'm sure you can spend your time doing something else, than just running around with stuffing, inductors and resistors. :D
 
Thanks Bjørn,

My sims showed a peak at the tuning, yours has a nice gentle roll off.
Time for me to look for another sim package then. Something that will get closer to MJKs files hopefully.

When you have a minute, if you can, would you take a look at the TB W6-2313?
What do the MJK files say about this driver?

Looks like a fun driver, and it is also very beautiful to look at.

W6-2313 - 6.5” Paper Coaxial Full Range - TB SPEAKER CO., LTD.
 
Thanks Bjørn,

My sims showed a peak at the tuning, yours has a nice gentle roll off.
Time for me to look for another sim package then. Something that will get closer to MJKs files hopefully.

When you have a minute, if you can, would you take a look at the TB W6-2313?
What do the MJK files say about this driver?

Looks like a fun driver, and it is also very beautiful to look at.

W6-2313 - 6.5” Paper Coaxial Full Range - TB SPEAKER CO., LTD.

It may all be in the stuffing.... Or, at least, the default stuffing modelling in LATL uses quite low densities. Start entering numbers like 4, 5, 8 even and the curve becomes more benign. According to my best counting on fingers, 110gm in the top 2/3 of that model tops out at over 8KG/M3.
 
It may all be in the stuffing.... Or, at least, the default stuffing modelling in LATL uses quite low densities. Start entering numbers like 4, 5, 8 even and the curve becomes more benign. According to my best counting on fingers, 110gm in the top 2/3 of that model tops out at over 8KG/M3.

Yes, I've been adding a lot more stuffing than the default, but it mostly reduces the ripples after the rising knee. In that sim, it does not attenuate a booming spike at the knee.
 
W5-2143

Bjorn,
I put all the numbers into the drawing.
All dimensions are interior and stuffing is 110gm for upper 2/3.
Please kindly check if my math is OK, or if there is anything I could do better.
Regards
Albert
 

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You could try trapezoid but that's rather more involved than building a "square" box. The port would have to be a tube too. Advantages would be a wider baffle and a deeper cabinet.

J.

Does it involve some design work. I don't know nothing about it and as I said I'm bad on numbers. Or if you could help on design and or point me to somewhere. My woodworking skill is very good. ��
 
Albertli, your math is fine.

As for the driver bezel, just glue the sides and front baffle first, making the back removable, then, you can use a router to cut the hole and recess needed for the driver. The bezel might go over to the side panels a little, it will be ok, the driver is still smaller than the combined width of the baffle and side panels.

Measure twice, cut once.

Happy building!
 
Maybe I'm just not seeing the problem. Albertli posted a drawing of his intended inside dimensions with a width on the front inside of 12.7cm or 5 inches. If the side walls are 5/8ths or 3/4th thick the total for the front bezel comes out at around 6 1/2 inches. I think a 4.8 inch driver cutout and 6.1 inch flange will fit fine as Perceval noted.

That said I'd be inclined to make the whole thing 1/2 inch (~1cm) wider just to make things easier. Of course you would shorten the depth from 16.3 down to 15.4cm or so. I suppose the slot would get wider so you might make it 2.1cm tall.
I'm only suggesting making it wider because I just got through -barely- fitting some TB-W4-1320SIR into a TABAQ that was built narrow for some TB 1053's. Had to fit a suprabaffle. Sure 1mm inside clearance is enough but there's something to be said for letting the driver breathe a bit...
They're breaking in now.
 
Hi,

I been watching this thread for a longer period and I am thinking about constructing a version of the Tabaq box with the Faital Pro 4Fe35

So I have cadded a draft for a slightly bigger version with a crossection of 156cm2

Is there any one out there who can do a sim on this draft and see if it sims ok? Or if I need to change anything?

Some stats:
Width: 18cm
Height: 48 cm
Depth: 31,5 cm
Crosssection: 156 cm2
Driver: Faital Pro 4Fe35
Building Material: 2,5cm

All the measurements on the drawing is in milimeters
Drawing:
tabaq_box_big.pdf - DocDroid
 
Does it involve some design work. I don't know nothing about it and as I said I'm bad on numbers. Or if you could help on design and or point me to somewhere. My woodworking skill is very good. ��


207cm2 needed. Maybe call it 216cm2. That's 12x18.... Add 3cm to the baffle and lose 3cm from the rear arriving at 15 baffle, 18 depth of enclosure and 9cm rear panel. (Ha, just realized.... 207cm2 is a 14cm baffle, 18 deep with a 9cm back).

That gives you a wider baffle for clearing the driver. Some extra work to box in the port to keep its dimensions the same. Main issue is how to build. I'm building formers (hollow) to enable the build and add braciness. It's taken a while to realise I need a good jig to make identical formers. I'm still puzzling over caulking it once the initial glue has set.
 
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