buckster
heya buckster, the colouring on the lcd looks fine, its 18bit enhanced to 24bit via the controller, the 200:1 contrast is also great with the black level, also using the cdm-t bulb my blacks dont get washed out at all but yet a very bright colourful image, the copy lens i have also helps as it cuts the glare right back, i must admit i was suprised in the test run i did last week in the black levels and the clarity of the image, and its not upto full brightness yet either in the light engine dept, when i tested the lcd out when i first got it and before the rip i tested a couple of games on it, and i must say its way better then my crt for clarity and colour, it looked so real, in the test i did in the projector to be, i tested it on a crapy compisite video source and the colours wer fine also, just the only problem i noticed was the image was blury cos of the crap source i had going through it, vga will realy tell the story asoon as i test that in the projector.
Trev
heya buckster, the colouring on the lcd looks fine, its 18bit enhanced to 24bit via the controller, the 200:1 contrast is also great with the black level, also using the cdm-t bulb my blacks dont get washed out at all but yet a very bright colourful image, the copy lens i have also helps as it cuts the glare right back, i must admit i was suprised in the test run i did last week in the black levels and the clarity of the image, and its not upto full brightness yet either in the light engine dept, when i tested the lcd out when i first got it and before the rip i tested a couple of games on it, and i must say its way better then my crt for clarity and colour, it looked so real, in the test i did in the projector to be, i tested it on a crapy compisite video source and the colours wer fine also, just the only problem i noticed was the image was blury cos of the crap source i had going through it, vga will realy tell the story asoon as i test that in the projector.
Trev
Frogstar
Heya Jan, thanks for the great coments, much apreciated, now about the plans, im hoping to have this projector done a week before christmas, ive been layed back cos of other work and parts in the past so now im realy starting to actually get somthing done on the thing lol, ok the projector gets finnished in december this year, the plans i will do in jan next year and make up a guide on how to construct it, also if u dont want plexi it can be made out of wood very nicely, it will be a diferent plan though and all edges will be bevelled with a 20mm radious or a 25mm radious, there wont be any lip around the edge and i think it would look great french polished or somthing like a walnut veneer or somthing, this projector is not that easy to make in plexi, if u dont have a router and u dont know how to use a router, then my friend im sorry but u will have to buy a kit lol, the hardest parts of this is the grouve that sits on the outer of the top and base plate, beleive me its not easy to do, ive only just figured out a way today on how to do it and its slow, noisy and easy to stuff up if u dont take your time, each grouve has the be run through 6 times with the router to get it clean and very acurate, the other part thats the hardest is the light box, u have 427 holes to drill on both sides, make or find a sutible louver, then actually make the box and end caps lol there is about a weeks work in that box alone, once these hard bits are done then the rest is fairly strait forward and ill be ofering parts for those who dont have the know how or the tools to make up certain parts, ill be making up another plexi case the exact same as the one i have now for sale as i have enough plexi to make up 2 enclosures, 1 being the one i have now and the other a spare, if i have enough of the 3mm plexi left over ill probally cut the lcd unit to go with the outer case kit, im not sure in what ive spent to make this unit, but it cost a fair bit to get it going, ill work out the total cost at the end of it cos i have the get the polished alloy feet, top caps and the iner suport poles machined as of yet, and they are what hold the whole unit together, very strongly i might add, anyway buddy hope it helped.
Trev
Heya Jan, thanks for the great coments, much apreciated, now about the plans, im hoping to have this projector done a week before christmas, ive been layed back cos of other work and parts in the past so now im realy starting to actually get somthing done on the thing lol, ok the projector gets finnished in december this year, the plans i will do in jan next year and make up a guide on how to construct it, also if u dont want plexi it can be made out of wood very nicely, it will be a diferent plan though and all edges will be bevelled with a 20mm radious or a 25mm radious, there wont be any lip around the edge and i think it would look great french polished or somthing like a walnut veneer or somthing, this projector is not that easy to make in plexi, if u dont have a router and u dont know how to use a router, then my friend im sorry but u will have to buy a kit lol, the hardest parts of this is the grouve that sits on the outer of the top and base plate, beleive me its not easy to do, ive only just figured out a way today on how to do it and its slow, noisy and easy to stuff up if u dont take your time, each grouve has the be run through 6 times with the router to get it clean and very acurate, the other part thats the hardest is the light box, u have 427 holes to drill on both sides, make or find a sutible louver, then actually make the box and end caps lol there is about a weeks work in that box alone, once these hard bits are done then the rest is fairly strait forward and ill be ofering parts for those who dont have the know how or the tools to make up certain parts, ill be making up another plexi case the exact same as the one i have now for sale as i have enough plexi to make up 2 enclosures, 1 being the one i have now and the other a spare, if i have enough of the 3mm plexi left over ill probally cut the lcd unit to go with the outer case kit, im not sure in what ive spent to make this unit, but it cost a fair bit to get it going, ill work out the total cost at the end of it cos i have the get the polished alloy feet, top caps and the iner suport poles machined as of yet, and they are what hold the whole unit together, very strongly i might add, anyway buddy hope it helped.
Trev
ok time to show some pics although crap ones i might add lol, ok in the first shot u see where things are staing to go, i didnt finnish the new base plate today as i had to make up another template for the new radious wich u can see the difference to the far bottom left against the old radious on the plan, the ballast is up front, that is going to have a box made for it to cover the crappy look of it and ive also split it in 2 away from the ignitor unit wich is the same coloured thing up the top back right, that will also have a box made for it, im hoping to cover the ballast and ignitor box with a gold covering, the thing up next to the ignitor is 1 of the psu's ill be using to power the lcd and fans, if i have enough power left over wich i hope, ill be putting in 2 neon wires to suround the top and bottom inside of the side peice so it will look like 2 blue strips, the black fan up the back will be replaced with a clear blue led fan that i will buy tomorrow, the light box isnt finnished as i need to get a rubber gromet for the wires to come out also ill get them tomorrow and the rubber gromets will also be coming out of the other boxes i make u for various things in there to let the cables come out with some saftey withough being cut by the cable hole in the box, the base for the lcd unit is on there in place i will be mounting that probally tomorrow in place then ill be placing the lcd in, the mirror and the part B of the light engine wich is yet to be made this week!, the inputs are up the back in the place where they will go and there will be another gold rca socket for the audio in, also up the front u see 2 clear leds if u look hard enough and thats where the power and standby leds will be.
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ok the next pic, in this pic its the same thing, but oooo look at that, the lens is mounted, damn ace never posted that, lol sorry guys ill post that soon, in this pic u see the lcd unit sitting on its base and yess with the lens mounted, there are also a couple of angles missing on the lcd box as im doing work to it and its not worth to put them on for just a pic, the lcd unit looks abit drab to me so im going to make up a design for it where the same silvery stuff covers some corner peices to make it look alive abit, that will come later though, the grouve u see in the front looks abit rough, but i can asure u its perfectly spot on, its just the protective covering thats abit messed up from the router cutting it, in the front of the lcd box where the fan and ballast is there will be a louver for the air to go in for the light box, where it will suck air from the air coming around from the back fan and removing some heat from the ballast and also some air from the front fan, u can see the leds in this shot but as i took it one of them kind of went spastic in the process and fell over lol
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ok last pic, here the leds are happy again in the front and are sitting right, this pic is with a now scrap peice of plexi on top to give u an idea of the profile of the hieght of the projector and kind of what it will look like, it looks bigger in the pic for some reason and the front dont look too square lol thats my cam for ya, more pics to follow soon of how i mounted the projection lens.
Trev
Trev
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dracul
heya dracul welcome to the thread, was wondering how long it took before u got in here lol, ok the bronze tunnel i dont know what your talking about lol anything that looks broze in there is alloy, the light box buts upto another plate that will join upto a pyramid inside, that then joins close to the frensel, all is made out of ally and there is no way the plexi can obtain any heat, the lcd and frensel is about 16cm from the light box front and the light box is made out of alloy too and in the design i made it nothing gets hot, the light box gets just warm to the touch, hope it helped
Trev
heya dracul welcome to the thread, was wondering how long it took before u got in here lol, ok the bronze tunnel i dont know what your talking about lol anything that looks broze in there is alloy, the light box buts upto another plate that will join upto a pyramid inside, that then joins close to the frensel, all is made out of ally and there is no way the plexi can obtain any heat, the lcd and frensel is about 16cm from the light box front and the light box is made out of alloy too and in the design i made it nothing gets hot, the light box gets just warm to the touch, hope it helped
Trev
Hey Ace, i like the new pics.
you know, I don't give much about the outer appearance of my projector, well if it's turn out sharp, -great otherwise I won't complain if it's just a box smaller and more quietly than a fridge. Anyway I think I could replace the plexi with some metal which is not as hard to work with.
I just want to get sure that I buy the right components and no crap.
So If you would make a list of your stuff, and even where you got them from plus some blue prints, I would buy it, and try my luck.
wish you a nice building week. have you already chosen the first movie you wanna watch with it?
By the way you should invent some *** kickin name for you projector.
cu
Jan
you know, I don't give much about the outer appearance of my projector, well if it's turn out sharp, -great otherwise I won't complain if it's just a box smaller and more quietly than a fridge. Anyway I think I could replace the plexi with some metal which is not as hard to work with.
I just want to get sure that I buy the right components and no crap.
So If you would make a list of your stuff, and even where you got them from plus some blue prints, I would buy it, and try my luck.
wish you a nice building week. have you already chosen the first movie you wanna watch with it?
By the way you should invent some *** kickin name for you projector.
cu
Jan
hmmmm in my test it worked out right for me (for this house anyway) for a throw of 3.5-4m (about 10-12ft) i got an image about 6ft x 7.5ft and at 4m its about 7ft x 9ft, its not bad in the throw about the same as a pro one, with the diylabs lens i got a screen size thats about 1/3rd - 1/2 smaller then that again at the same distances due to its longer focal length, i was going to use the diylabs lens and no doubt i still can and use both but i dont realy like the quality that the diylabs triplet produces compared to this copy lens.
Trev
heya new, im using a cdm-t metal halaide bulb its a small bulb compared to others, getting it to work in a pro projector could be abit risky, i have a infocus lp220 here and im thinking in retrofitting it out with this lamp, it would very well be bright enough for sure, but the ballast in the infocus i have is for a 250 - 270w mh lamp, so the ballast in it would have to be taken out and retrofitted also, thats an easy modd but the psu for the computer in the projector takes +15, -15v so id have to find a small psu for the computer as the psu for the computer is with the ballast as a all in one unit, a modded comp psu will do it and it will fit no problems, im unaware of the specs for the 2 projectors u own, but if they are meant for a higher wattage bulb then the one im using dont use the bulb im using with the ballast thats in the projector as it will over drive it and it could cause it too boom boom lol, i have atached a pic of my bulb for a size comparison, as u can see the bulb is abit smaller then a computer mouse. Also i might just add i was reading up on computer psu's the other day and if u just use the 12v output and not the 5v they become unstable and the voltage on the 12v may become 18v or 22v even, aparently when u use the 5v in a comp psu the way they are meant to be run it helps to regulate the 12v to stay at 12v, i didnt save the link i should have i supose and posted it, so take care and double check everything u do to save any acidents.
my bulb spec's are:
14000lm
12000hrs
4200k colour
Trev
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Frogstar
heya Jan, hmmm ill list the stuff abit later on when its finnished and i can garentee u there is no crap parts, not sure of the first movie to watch on it but when i was testing it i kind of watched like 5 movies lol, i got kind of hooked into the show and thought hmm wonder what this would look like on it ect even some porn lol, anyway enough of that the name for the projector is unknown at this stage although i do sell parts and i could call it my company name, any names are welcome, sujest people sujest!
Trev
heya Jan, hmmm ill list the stuff abit later on when its finnished and i can garentee u there is no crap parts, not sure of the first movie to watch on it but when i was testing it i kind of watched like 5 movies lol, i got kind of hooked into the show and thought hmm wonder what this would look like on it ect even some porn lol, anyway enough of that the name for the projector is unknown at this stage although i do sell parts and i could call it my company name, any names are welcome, sujest people sujest!
Trev
Ok well the latest news on this projector is ive had another hard week, no time again, i could of made this thing in 2 weeks from start to finnish normally but as u know u need time for that (time i dont have right now), pluss this is a prototype so it takes abit longer to design somthing from scratch and build it making a few changes along the way, anyway ive made a start on the part B of the light engine, i have the condenser mounted and made up the plate that will have the seal and the light box joins too, i dont have a pic of it yet so bear with me, i dont have a pic of the projection lens as promised but ive drawn it up for u to understand the workings first, its easy to make and strong, and it also has a super smooth focusing ajustment, Ok in the pic u can see the top and bottom clamps, they are what clamp the lens barrel into place, they are held in place by the small screws u see in the ends, those screws also ajust the tension and the stiffness of the hand focusing action, the felt does 3 things, 1 being protecting the barrel from scratches (it polishes the barrel at the same time), 2 being a seal for light and dust, and 3 it acts like a bush type bearing, the movement of this lens is so smooth it feels like its on a bearing and that is also fully ajustable via the screws. The mounting blocks are alloy rectangular tube and they get screwed into the back of the face plate that is mounted to the lcd unit box, its a very simple design but very afective and easy to make, the pic basically says the rest.
Trev
Trev
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