Can mains intended twin core (blue & brown wires inside) cables be used for speakers without issues due to the fact they are not primarily intended to drive speakers? Receiving so high a noise to signal level in some threads on these fora make people, as I am doing now, to ask stupid questions.
My studies of Physics tell me that if wires are made of copper in specifically audio cables and power cables, there should be no differences. However, I am asking, as I want to try two Yamaha speakers I bought last year. The speakers model number is: CBR10.
Since, these speakers were never used before, they have stickers glued to their front grilles. I would like to also ask how I should remove these stickers to avoid damage?
My studies of Physics tell me that if wires are made of copper in specifically audio cables and power cables, there should be no differences. However, I am asking, as I want to try two Yamaha speakers I bought last year. The speakers model number is: CBR10.
Since, these speakers were never used before, they have stickers glued to their front grilles. I would like to also ask how I should remove these stickers to avoid damage?
Yes, you can use ordinary power cord, but first check whether both wires inside are of twisted design.
How long is distance between amplifier and the speakers? Choose wire gaude accordingly.
What kind of stickers? Presumably not the three tuning forks logo? If they are ordinary stickers with usual marketing claims like "700W power with fabulous sound, etc.", then just pull them of the metal grilles.
How long is distance between amplifier and the speakers? Choose wire gaude accordingly.
What kind of stickers? Presumably not the three tuning forks logo? If they are ordinary stickers with usual marketing claims like "700W power with fabulous sound, etc.", then just pull them of the metal grilles.
Last edited:
Twisted wire pairs are intended to reduce parasitic inductance but the parasitic capacitance is most probably not affected. The cables I have in mind have their inner wires running parallel to each other with no twisting. The cable length will only be a few metres, at most 10m.
The parasitic inductance of wire pairs is typically: 10 nH/cm
Click here for reference
The parasitic inductance of wire pairs is typically: 10 nH/cm
Click here for reference
Last edited:
No need for twisting in a speaker cable, plain parallel zipcord is perfectly fine, yours is exact same but with some extra plastic around to become round and stronger if somebody steps on it when lying on the floor.
As you correctly assume, copper is copper, and all that matters is cross section.
No big deal in a few meter long speaker cable.
I have used nothing else in over 50 years of Musical Instrument Amp/Speaker manufacturing.
As you correctly assume, copper is copper, and all that matters is cross section.
No big deal in a few meter long speaker cable.
I have used nothing else in over 50 years of Musical Instrument Amp/Speaker manufacturing.
Ordinary power cable works just fine for speaker wire. Copper is copper, oxygen free or not, pure or an electrical grade alloy or not. The differences are minuscule. If in doubt buy the next gauge up and call it good. If you want it twisted, twist it. It’s not that hard. It also doesn’t make much difference.
The thread is on borrowed time already - ALL cable threads eventually get closed. There have been no exceptions.
The thread is on borrowed time already - ALL cable threads eventually get closed. There have been no exceptions.
For such short lenghts any ordinary power cable is perfectly OK, including un-twisted ones.
As the OP doesn't intend to buy zip cords, I think twisting is impossible with the round cables he has in mind.
Not exactly. Compare the specific resistances of copper and aluminium. For sure aluminium's resistivity is higher than copper's, but not twice as high.
Best regards!
One reason I am asking which certainly is legitimate and logical is because adjacent conductors have capacitance and inductance which can cause an amplifier to oscillate at a high frequency superposed on the legitimate output. This high frequency is inaudible, but it can damage tweeters. Since power cables are NOT manufactured to drive speakers, manufacturers do not need to make sure their parasitic capacitance and inductance do not cause an amplifier to oscillate.
One way to try, although it is impossible, to create directional speaker wires is by intentionally connecting Schottky diodes across short segments (< 1cm) of wire to mimic hypothetical diodes in copper. Although, such diodes are known to work and rectify current, the voltage drop across them would be too low under normal conditions and will never conduct. If such a diode were to conduct, it would mean, the output is damaged and the amplifier has lost control of the output.
One way to try, although it is impossible, to create directional speaker wires is by intentionally connecting Schottky diodes across short segments (< 1cm) of wire to mimic hypothetical diodes in copper. Although, such diodes are known to work and rectify current, the voltage drop across them would be too low under normal conditions and will never conduct. If such a diode were to conduct, it would mean, the output is damaged and the amplifier has lost control of the output.
Last edited:
All loudspeaker cables and all power cables have adjacent inductors, so both loudspeaker and power cables have capacitance and inductance. Although power cables are "not designed" for loudspeaker duties, they do not cause an amplifier oscilation more or less than any "specially" designed loudspeaker cables. Even more, there is much bigger chance for an amplifier to oscillate with some monstrous and super-expensive "audiophile loudspeaker cable".
Once again. I copy/paste same text as in similar thread days ago:
The cable needed is easy to calculate. Knowing load resistance and mean power, you can estimate current and voltage. So, assume a maximum loss in the cable: 0.1, 1, 2, 5% of the power available for the load or whatever value is desired. Thus, estimate cable resistance from cable drop. Take any reliable cable chart and look for a cable whose resistance (resistivity times cable lenght needed) be lower than half you estimated (taking into account send and return cable resistance). Go to a supplier and buy such a cable. Return home, hook it to baffles and amp, power the audio set on, play your favourite vynil, go for a dosis of good whisky on the rocks and enjoy.
The cable needed is easy to calculate. Knowing load resistance and mean power, you can estimate current and voltage. So, assume a maximum loss in the cable: 0.1, 1, 2, 5% of the power available for the load or whatever value is desired. Thus, estimate cable resistance from cable drop. Take any reliable cable chart and look for a cable whose resistance (resistivity times cable lenght needed) be lower than half you estimated (taking into account send and return cable resistance). Go to a supplier and buy such a cable. Return home, hook it to baffles and amp, power the audio set on, play your favourite vynil, go for a dosis of good whisky on the rocks and enjoy.
CCAW isn’t even an “electrical grade copper alloy” that most power cables and extension cords are actually made of. It’s not really suitable because the terminations usually go bad (Hard to make a good connection).
AA8000 4/0 USE-2 in a twisted pair would be tempting for those wanting overkill speaker wire and not wanting to pay for copper, but again, hard to make a good connection to except with the special lugs used in circuit breaker panels.
You’ve never seen how twisted a round jacketed extension cord can get just in the course of normal use on an electric lawn mower? You can certainly twist them if you want to.
In the interest of not degrading the signal to noise ratio of these forums, I would like to point out, that the purpose of the thread has been satisfied. I created this thread not out of fear copper conductors in mains cables may have weird properties not found in serious engineering and Physics books, but because of the simple fact, mains cables are not manufactured primarily to drive speakers, and as a consequence, they might have parameters which make an amplifier to misbehave.
This thread has nothing to do with phantom electrical properties.
This thread has nothing to do with phantom electrical properties.
Mains cables are manufactured to have proper insulation for the voltage, and be durable enough to withstand the normal use/abuse and remain safe. In many cases, a HIGHER bar than that for “speaker wire”. Use cheap non-UL-listed speaker wire for lamp cord on an actual lamp and there is increased risk of fire.