4-way instead of 3-way?

As applicable as with any size transducer. Edge diffraction is about the same no matter what size transducer, except everything is lower in frequency for bigger sized stuff and higher in frequency for smaller transducers, and objects. Hense the minimal baffle means no flat around drivers, and is as effective on all sized transducers and systems. Minimal baffle in absolute dimensions is not very meaningful, only in relation to wavelength.

It relates to sound wavelength, which is basically physical size of sound and, sound at any frequency, any wavelength isbjust sound and reacts the same. This means any frewuency (wavelength) reacts similarly with same sized physical objects. If ideal 1" transducer in 4" baffle shows problems from 4" wavelength up to 1" wavelength, a 10" transducer in 40" baffle would show exactly same problems/behavior, only everything is now on 10x longer wavelength, 10x lower in frequency.

But, which one is more audible? hearing system at 4" wavelength is less sensitive to phase differences between ears, while at 40" its less sensitive to amplitude difference between ears. This is due to head being about 8" in size.

If you want you can think sizes of objects in frequency, or sound frequency as physical size, and this stuff is easy to imagine after a while. My head is roughly 1700Hz in size, I'm about 180Hz tall. 4000Hz fits in palm of my hand, fingernail is about 20kHz. My room dinensions are 55Hz, 42Hz and 140Hz.

If you check your tweeter diffraction ripple on measurements its roughly from baffle width to tweeter diameter. If it was 20cm baffle and 2.5cm tweeter it would be roughly from 1700Hz to 13kHz, the whole bandwidth of the tweeter. Whats the diffraction ripple with 20cm cone on the same 20cm baffle? from 1700Hz to 1700Hz, so about none. Diffraction still happens, but not the problematic variety which wpuld be higher in frequency, but because the 20cm transducer beams, less and less sound gets toward edge and there isn't much.

Very interesting way of saying dimensions. Can I take this that the lower band drivers have smaller diffraction problems even with the same size baffles? So they can be on the plain rectangular baffle and still have relatively small problems. I hope this holds good for midrange as well. Fewer cylinders, easier making.

Only if distance from transducer edge to baffle edge is relatively long (compared to driver size). If the edge is very close to transducer there is no wiggle as explained above, only main diffraction hump would be there which has relatively uniform behavior to all directions and can be EQ:d on axis, but it makes response narrow a bit. Any roundover would of course be even better, would smoothen even the main hump, lower DI. Some times one wants to utilize higher DI here, sometimes lower, to compensate total DI where there is vertical lobing for example.

Frequency response wiggle measured in listening window illustrates there is secondary sound, the edge, wiggle is interference of direct sound and the edge. Audibility of it isn't that obvious though, very hard to compare low diffraction and high diffraction systems, as they would differ in many ways.

The ubiguous 1" dome tweeter on flat 4" flange is just bad in my opinion, legacy tech, as it basically makes the whole tweeter bandwidth have diffraction interference, unless generous roundovers beyond the flange. If it was 1" dome on no flange, one could use very small roundovers, even none, just put it on a stick top of your woofer box. Of course tweeter would have "the bafflestep", which could be a problem with passive xo, perhaps no problem with DSP, as long as system SPL requirement isn't too high and low DI system is on the table.

If higher DI system is desired, there must be bulk around the transducer, so better make it such it doesn't make edge diffraction backwave happen. Properly designed waveguides and roundovers, even grude slants to approximate round shape, whatever, to keep the flat baffle minimal = edges nonexistent or very close to transducer. Another option is to put edges very far, so that there is no difference in early room reflections and edge diffraction. Like soffit mounting.

I wish I could replace the faceplate of the tweeter or somehow mount it without one. The 21mm tweeter I want to use has a smaller faceplate than 30mm-ish tweeters', but still relatively larger. They have one with almost no faceplate area, but the FR curve isn't as good as the one I like.
If I use ATC or Volt, I guess not much to worry about thanks to the waveguides.
 
Very interesting way of saying dimensions. Can I take this that the lower band drivers have smaller diffraction problems even with the same size baffles? So they can be on the plain rectangular baffle and still have relatively small problems. I hope this holds good for midrange as well. Fewer cylinders, easier making.
Hi, simple answer is yes you can, small square is roughly the same as small disk (end cap of a cylinder), but there is a lot of nyance to geek over :D I hope I understood right what you refer to, single driver on it's own "box" or "cylinder".

Quick example, If you put a 10cm diameter small mid driver on 10cm diameter round or rectangular baffle, difference between the two are the rectangular baffle has the corners "poke out", which are basically centimeter or two sized, in this case, and not side or above the driver but diagonal. Position is important, diagonal stuff isn't directly toward earliest room reflections so their effect is less important in that sense. Another, the corners are perhaps fifth of driver diameter, so quite close, short and small compared to sound wavelength that diffracts, so their effect is kind of small. In this sense circular and rectangular minimal baffle for single driver are pretty much interchangeable what the interference ripple due to edge diffraction is toward listening window. But, in a four way system the lowest way, say up to few hundred hertz has bandwidth on very long wavelengths so the structure can be bigger without issues.After all you'd want some volume inside the box to get sensitivity for bass.

Overall enclosure beyond the front edge has an effect as well, so perhaps cylinder and rectangular tubes have bit more difference. Rectangular could be wee bit less deep for same volume inside, but shorter back edge of tube might show less diffraction ripple from there. Also innards effect, some small differences there, how much "breathing room" immediately behind driver. Tube likely resonates and emits sound much less than flat panels. Either could be easier to build, depends what you have in your mind, plumbing pipe with wooden endcaps quite easy.

Substitute the 10cm with any diameter and this stuff holds true relative to wavelength.

That is one driver on isolation, but you are building a system. If all transducers are on their own baffless you now have multiple bafflesteps, although pretty close together. 8" woofer/baffle has it octave lower than 4", roughly around 1kHz and 2kHz in frequency. All these have their effect on system DI so you might want to do at least simple simulation how it might go together. They'd all require different EQ which is no issue with DSP. Modular approach is great, as you can experiment with things, easier to handle than big bulky objects, likely cheaper at least if mistakes happen. Hifijim has couple projects that considers structure size, shape and driver layout in terms of system DI. Others have as well, like wesayso, can't remember who else, likely many, but not as many as rectangular baffle/box builders :)

I wish I could replace the faceplate of the tweeter or somehow mount it without one. The 21mm tweeter I want to use has a smaller faceplate than 30mm-ish tweeters', but still relatively larger. They have one with almost no faceplate area, but the FR curve isn't as good as the one I like.
If I use ATC or Volt, I guess not much to worry about thanks to the waveguides.
Look into waveguides. For example members augerpro and fluid, perhaps others, have posted retrofitter 3D printed ones for various dome tweeters and in various sizes. I like to think a waveguide makes transducer bigger thinking about the stuff with wavelength/size. Afterall it reduces flat baffle area, optimized shape instead of non-optimized ;) Tweeter is the most problematic one as there is no low pass filter and deserves proper structure. Woofers we low pass, and could do it below edge diffraction and other issues, like breakup and beaming.

Have fun!
 
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Taking the concept of waveguide further- it's almost like thinking of it as an "Air Cone" midrange with high fs, low mms, high efficiency, tiny Xmax and lots of HF extension. Not that different (until the extremes) from some of the classic underhung/low overhang lightweight midranges/fullranges, but without a big thin vibrating paper assembly, it's an air mass instead; with more controllable behavior than a lightweight 3d assembly but worse LF efficiency. No surprise that such an enhancement would work well to make a tweeter sound good lower in frequency.
 
Yes, you and I have been tossing this concept about for several years now... As you pointed out back then, the best tweeter baffle is a radius that begins at the edge of the diaphragm. I am encouraged by the trend of newer tweeters having face plates in the 60-75mm range... Bliesma T25, Wavecor TW030WA23/24, and ScanSpeak D3004/604000 for instance.

Yes, it is encouraging to see tweeters with smallest faceplate possible or none. D3004 seems to be less than 40mm in diameter, much smaller than 60-75mm. Unfortunately, D2104 is over 90mm...
 
the best tweeter baffle is a radius that begins at the edge of the diaphragm
Proper waveguides (in "classical" term) are actually curved baffles, where the radius begins at the edge of the diaphragm. ;)
But the best (tweeter or lower frequency) baffle is that which can provide the response we want. So there is no "one best" baffle for everyone, IMO.
 
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I did a bit of homework on the candidate midhigh drivers for an easy comparison:

DriverLow crossoverHigh crossoverSensitivityMax Power(W)Xmax(mm)Price(USD)
ATC SCM75-150300?2000?91?754900?
Volt VM753450400092100(AES)2580
Bliesma M74S-6500500095N/A?!?!?2.4411
HiVi DM-7500300?4000?9020(rated)N/A100
Tang Band 75-1558SH80050009025(rated)1.5181
Volt VM5276004000?9075(AES)2298
Satori MD60N-6700450093120?(rated)1173

Please let me know what you think. Data of some drivers are sparse and maybe unreliable...
 
Hi macka,

Thank you for your comments and advices. I see many of your advices in line with my plan. I happened to use B2500.1 in my current system, and I prefer pulp cones for bass/midbass. For a higher WAF, I'd like to use 2 8" instead of single bigger one for the woofer section. If counting the SVS in, I am more like planning to end up with 5-way, but I am talking about only the part to plan and build in the future, so calling it 4-way.

There seems to be no Bliesma 2" dome, and you didn't mention Satori, so I take it that you don't recommend it. :). I am also looking at Scanspeak 21mm textile dome, so let me know what you think.

There are other textile dome midhigh options you didn't mention, so I wonder what you think about HiVi and Tang Band 3" ones.

BTW, Is it JBL 4344? I heard it a few times in 2 places, and the last one sounded pretty charming and pleasing, though it wasn't exactly to my taste. Surely a masterpiece.
My apologies

The the Bliesma is a 3 inch dome. But have a look at some of the online FR off axis tests. I will try and find the link.

The designer uses variable diaphragm thickness and geometry to improve the off axis response and they go up higher.

Your choice of dual 8 inch drivers has merit. If operating then up to the 800 hertz region you will need to account for baffle step. This is easily solved with EQ or in a passive network with two woofers.

You have lots of valuable input here.

Yes the Satori 2 inch dome does look good. The Visation fabric dome is also good.

My suggestion is to perhaps start with something like the Sartori dome mid and dome tweeter and get your system together structurally. If it has promise then opn
The wallet on higher performance drivers.

Yes the 4344. There are a number of modifications to improve the resolution of those systems. I use the 4345 with the 18” 2245H driver. The bass out of it is legendary.

I also would be remiss not to mention the original source and the room. Hearing a musician or singer live un amplified to quite a moment of truth. Let your ears be the judge on what is real, different or better.

The room’s impact cannot be ignored. It’s quite an unknown variable until you open up REW and look at the reverberation time and the water fall of the room.

Getting the absorption coefficient right at the listening position is more important than many people realise. This plays an
Important role in achieving the correct balance of direct and indirect sound while ensuring the resolution of the system is in fact translated to the listener.

Others you can find yourself the cat chasing its tail.
 
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My own take on getting what you need out of a system is that it must translate as closely possible to the original recording.

This means minimal destructive errors (ref Earl Geddes) to what we decode as human.

Geddes in his presentations says the human ear is non Linear in several ways. Its non linear as most of us know in amplitude- loudness versus frequency.

But the ear is also non linear in detecting different distortion harmonics. Add to this the ear is more sensitive to distortion at low levels ( as l understand it ). High order harmonics of distortion also attract sensitivity.

There can be a tendency to confuse what highs are?

Above be 10,000 hertz or 3000-10000 hertz. It depends on what you think certain overtones actually are as a frequency. All musical instruments have overtones that often start with a fundamental in the lower midrange.

I think this is where coherence of a multi way system is impossible. Poor hand overs from one driver to the next are bad if you want those overtones to be coherent.

On that point a narrow face plate or no face plate tweeter right next to the dome mid is likely going to solve a lot of the practical versus performance criteria. It will act like a point source as far as coherence goes.

I used to have a system with that design and it was really insightful (Legend Acoustics Kantu 5) The mid was a 4 inch Aerogel cone driver. The dual woofers were 6.5 inch from Scan.

Looking the chart l personally find l am sensitive to the resolution or blurring over overtones above 8000 hertz. If the overtones are not crystal clear l can pick it out instantly and l am 64.
But recording engineers call this region “Air”.

I am just mentioning this but there is quite a lot in it.

Without air the music would be like a blanket over the loudspeaker.
 

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The above statements are quite misleading….and as a recording/mix engineer I cringe when people apply reference standard to recordings when no reference of destructive tones or forces exist…..none. There is no reference….listen to what sounds good…..create what sounds pleasing…..rinse….repeat.
 
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I guess l went off topic. Anything to do with modern recordings is full of contradictions and controversy theses days.

Obviously if an artist decides to record a performance and artistically modify it with the engineer the only way to compare the translations is in the studio and the control room.

In a concert hall or a large studio at Abby Road studios a simple mic set up with minimal processing may be appropriate.

The tenant of what are the fundermentals of musical instruments and the range of overtones is relevant to associating frequency response with what is subjectively heard.

I do think Earl Geddes research is well founded on how specifically the human ear works.

In this presentation Geddes does allude to a discuss some myths and interesting unknowns about our hearing. I don’t have bookmarks on this presentation


 
Hi macka,

I was waiting to be able to quote your post, but that takes forever... so: :)

Based on some of the discussions this is my conceptual view of the proposed design.

There are a number of considerations not the least WAF.

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What I want to do is a floorstander bass module and 3 cylindrical modules for midbass, midhigh and tweeter. I want to be able to swap a module(== driver(s) == a way). I might look into plastic pipes and/or 3-D printing options for those.
 
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I did a bit of homework on the candidate midhigh drivers for an easy comparison:

DriverLow crossoverHigh crossoverSensitivityMax Power(W)Xmax(mm)Price(USD)
ATC SCM75-150300?2000?91?754900?
Volt VM753450400092100(AES)2580
Bliesma M74S-6500500095N/A?!?!?2.4411
HiVi DM-7500300?4000?9020(rated)N/A100
Tang Band 75-1558SH80050009025(rated)1.5181
Volt VM5276004000?9075(AES)2298
Satori MD60N-6700450093120?(rated)1173

Please let me know what you think. Data of some drivers are sparse and maybe unreliable...

I am removing HiVi and Tang Band ones, as they look inferior to other options and/or the brand/presented data seem less reliable. I am adding Visation instead. I also found Beyma and some others used to have dome midranges. Scanspeak's cheaper one has a very peaky curve, so was excluded, too.

DriverLow Fc(Hz)High Fc(Hz)Sensitivity(dB/W/m)Max Power(W)Xmax(mm)Price(USD)
ATC SCM75-150300?2000?91?754900?
Volt VM753450400092100(AES)2580
Bliesma M74S-6500500095N/A?!?!?!?2.4411
Volt VM5276004000?9075(AES)2298
Satori MD60N-6700450093120?(rated)1173
Visaton G 50 FFL6008000?89120(nominal?)????
 
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I think the best approach is to first re appraise how your others drivers will work in with your proposed loudspeaker. Is it dsp or passive, what power amps are you planning.

The thing is it has work work on a functional level.

Do the low bass and the mid bass first.
Will the SVS sub work with your low woofers or mid bass woofers?


What is the operating range of your proposed woofers ? What is their efficiency or sensitivity?
Will the enclosure be sealed or bass reflex?

The dynamic characteristics of the SVS sub need to match your woofers.

Once you have what settled the choices of the mid dome are more defined
 
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also found Beyma and some others used to have dome midranges.
Beyma MC115.
Dynaudio MD142. Older MD-76's.
Wharfedale Evo 4 domes can be bought as spares.
Dayton RS52 2".
Volt's 753, is also available in E version(8ohm), and the 752.
Scanspeak D8404, just hampered by the ridicilous price.
Legatia L3 (car audio) dome midrange, has a rated xmax of 6mm and 113hz fs.
Ciare HM 500 2".
Morel used to have the MDM-75.
Adam audio has the DCH 4" dome/cone hybrid, not sure about availability.

Etc.
 
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I think the best approach is to first re appraise how your others drivers will work in with your proposed loudspeaker. Is it dsp or passive, what power amps are you planning.

JH> Yes they will be steep FIR filtering done in S/W on my M1 Mac mini. I currently have a Prima Luna EVO 300 integrated for mids, and Monolith 9-channel HT power amplifier used for woofers and tweeters. I also have a Job 225 which I plan to use for tweeters(used for another room system right now).

The thing is it has work work on a functional level.

Do the low bass and the mid bass first.
Will the SVS sub work with your low woofers or mid bass woofers?

JH> Yes, I am planning to use my SVS below some point for all the channel in the system. It will be a 5.1-channel system after all.

What is the operating range of your proposed woofers ? What is their efficiency or sensitivity?
Will the enclosure be sealed or bass reflex?

JH> I haven't started thinking about it yet. Scanspeak and Volt are candidates, though it's wide open to others. Though I prefer pulp cones, I am curious about harder materials. I am planning a sealed one, as SVS will fill the lacking low bass and it is also a sealed box.

The dynamic characteristics of the SVS sub need to match your woofers.

Once you have what settled the choices of the mid dome are more defined

JH> Not sure what you mean exactly or how I can do that. We will have a lot of chat on this, too. :)
 
Beyma MC115.
Dynaudio MD142. Older MD-76's.
Wharfedale Evo 4 domes can be bought as spares.
Dayton RS52 2".
Volt's 753, is also available in E version(8ohm), and the 752.
Scanspeak D8404, just hampered by the ridicilous price.
Legatia L3 (car audio) dome midrange, has a rated xmax of 6mm and 113hz fs.
Ciare HM 500 2".
Morel used to have the MDM-75.
Adam audio has the DCH 4" dome/cone hybrid, not sure about availability.

Etc.
It's unfortunate that most of these are gone from the market. Dayton one looks surprisingly good on paper for its price. Actually, it sounds too good to be true at the price, to an audiophile spoiled by price tags of those 'audiophile' drivers.

Does anyone have measurements for the Wharfedale drivers? Legatia seems just as expensive as the Volt or ATC, surprised to see such price in car audio market(I know nothing about it, of course). I also excluded Ciare as its dome material is not textile. Maybe next time.

I listened to the 8404 in my DIY friend's new project, and it's very good, probably better than ATC, but waaaaayyyy too expensive. I will never afford such $$$$ drivers in my whole life. The 2 professional digital audio gears I want to buy for this project cost just a little more than 1 driver, lol.
 
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It’s a shame some drivers are either NA or priced out of the market. I am hearing noises that Be might be replaced by Textreme once fabrication techniques are refined. Some compression driver manufacturers are testing diaphragm alternatives to BE. Eminence has a novel textreme diaphragm compression driver.
 
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