Hi Steve
I am not with any knowledge that is of value about this design for a Speaker, I have wiped the pages clean from my previous Speaker Investigations and am willing to develop my learning for this design.
I do not know of a Panel Size I require, even though I have seen a selection of Panel Sizes and all would be able to be used in the Room I intend on putting them.
I do not know the cost of the Exciters I will need or if they perform like a full range driver, or if there is a Xover required to be used.
I do not know if the Amp will react to the load like a conventional speaker load, or if an additional circuit is required to protect the Amp.
I usually depend on an individual with an understanding of Electronics to assist with build projects and the EE side of a build is almost a commission build on my behalf.
I do not know at this stage how much third party support I will require with the electronics.
I do understand structures and materials and have used this knowledge in many forms within my HiFi System and extended that knowledge to others for them to experience.
Today, I have loaned a Range of LP Puck Weights and a Panzerholz Board to a friend to be used on their TT and as a Sub Plinth, and the experience encountered has proved to be very encouraging for the P'holz material, one attendee has taken a demonstration item home to try on their system.
I can send onto you the Ribbed Material, it is quite light weight, so a batch will not prove too expensive to send on.
I will need the Dimensions?, that are suitable for your investigation into it, I will also retain a few full boards in storage for myself to be used in the near future.
I am not with any knowledge that is of value about this design for a Speaker, I have wiped the pages clean from my previous Speaker Investigations and am willing to develop my learning for this design.
I do not know of a Panel Size I require, even though I have seen a selection of Panel Sizes and all would be able to be used in the Room I intend on putting them.
I do not know the cost of the Exciters I will need or if they perform like a full range driver, or if there is a Xover required to be used.
I do not know if the Amp will react to the load like a conventional speaker load, or if an additional circuit is required to protect the Amp.
I usually depend on an individual with an understanding of Electronics to assist with build projects and the EE side of a build is almost a commission build on my behalf.
I do not know at this stage how much third party support I will require with the electronics.
I do understand structures and materials and have used this knowledge in many forms within my HiFi System and extended that knowledge to others for them to experience.
Today, I have loaned a Range of LP Puck Weights and a Panzerholz Board to a friend to be used on their TT and as a Sub Plinth, and the experience encountered has proved to be very encouraging for the P'holz material, one attendee has taken a demonstration item home to try on their system.
I can send onto you the Ribbed Material, it is quite light weight, so a batch will not prove too expensive to send on.
I will need the Dimensions?, that are suitable for your investigation into it, I will also retain a few full boards in storage for myself to be used in the near future.
John.
what size panel would , you ,like.
and what size panel would your wife like.
would it be used for surround sound .
how will you be expecting to mount the panel , on the wall ,or out into the room similar to a normal audio setup.
panels can be flexible 😁
basically what are your needs.
Exciters are no different from ordinary full range cone drivers, 4 ohm or 8 ohm and so on if using multiple drivers.
the choice is yours.
Steve.
what size panel would , you ,like.
and what size panel would your wife like.
would it be used for surround sound .
how will you be expecting to mount the panel , on the wall ,or out into the room similar to a normal audio setup.
panels can be flexible 😁
basically what are your needs.
Exciters are no different from ordinary full range cone drivers, 4 ohm or 8 ohm and so on if using multiple drivers.
the choice is yours.
Steve.
Hi Eric
Thanks a lot! I made first tests with this method. I just have seen I haven't exactly followed what you wrote. some adjustments and I will share the results.
Christian
Steve, Thanks for the suggestion. I went to the 'forum problems' link and put in my problem and got a response back right away. Unfortunately, I didn't include all the info about what I had been doing, so his suggestion was something I was already doing. I replied back and am awaiting their response. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, as usual. I look to you as the guru on this forum, and once again, you came through with the best answer.
Jaxboy.
Thanks, no problem.
something you might be interested in.
last night I was trying to sort out the low end on the two canvas panels.
the pictures show the problem.
The first picture shows the fr at about 30cm pink noise.
The second picture shows the response of a very heavy bass track,(Maxwell's urban hang suite)
The bass peaks at about 50to60hz about at least 10db. Higher than the rest .
The third picture is at 3m into the room , now the bass peak is more like 15db higher than the other frequencies.
This is causing the panel distress, flapping.
My remedy was to gently roll off the bass below 120hz like a tone control on an amp.
But I would normally not go down this far , but if I wanted to run this panel full range this would have to be controlled.
The flapping was mainly coming from the top and bottom larger areas of open canvas .
So I was thinking maybe making the ply panel bigger in the middle matching the 10cm side distance , or reducing the panel size.
So the ply panel would be 10cm from the sides.
That would hopefully reduce the flapping but probably not the peak?
Once again ,sorry for the poor quality pictures.
Steve.
Thanks, no problem.
something you might be interested in.
last night I was trying to sort out the low end on the two canvas panels.
the pictures show the problem.
The first picture shows the fr at about 30cm pink noise.
The second picture shows the response of a very heavy bass track,(Maxwell's urban hang suite)
The bass peaks at about 50to60hz about at least 10db. Higher than the rest .
The third picture is at 3m into the room , now the bass peak is more like 15db higher than the other frequencies.
This is causing the panel distress, flapping.
My remedy was to gently roll off the bass below 120hz like a tone control on an amp.
But I would normally not go down this far , but if I wanted to run this panel full range this would have to be controlled.
The flapping was mainly coming from the top and bottom larger areas of open canvas .
So I was thinking maybe making the ply panel bigger in the middle matching the 10cm side distance , or reducing the panel size.
So the ply panel would be 10cm from the sides.
That would hopefully reduce the flapping but probably not the peak?
Once again ,sorry for the poor quality pictures.
Steve.
Attachments
Jaxboy.
I've been having another play around with a couple of panels.
The first is the cascamite panel at about 1m playing the same track but with a butt 45db roll off at 61hz.
The panel is much more controlled , keeping the very low frequencies away from the panel , the hump in the midrange is the vocals and saxophone .
Second picture is of the 6x9inch 1mm veneer at 2m
The third picture is my 6x9inch 1mm veneer panel at 30cm.
The last tracks are are with pink noise.
I am at the moment playing both the art and veneer panel size by side.
apart from a little bass distortion from not being set up properly ,it's hard to believe that the subs are not switched on !
Steve.
I've been having another play around with a couple of panels.
The first is the cascamite panel at about 1m playing the same track but with a butt 45db roll off at 61hz.
The panel is much more controlled , keeping the very low frequencies away from the panel , the hump in the midrange is the vocals and saxophone .
Second picture is of the 6x9inch 1mm veneer at 2m
The third picture is my 6x9inch 1mm veneer panel at 30cm.
The last tracks are are with pink noise.
I am at the moment playing both the art and veneer panel size by side.
apart from a little bass distortion from not being set up properly ,it's hard to believe that the subs are not switched on !
Steve.
Attachments
Hi Steve
what size panel would , you ,like. ( For the Temporary Mobile Home, a Panel not exceeding a dimension of approx' 400mm x 400mm would be quite sufficient.
For the home when structural repairs are complete, there will be Three Rooms available to have a HiFi System of which one will be a Bedroom Space and become the allocated space for the main used HiFi System.
There will be Two other Rooms Locations, that will be used as reception rooms, and which I can set up the unobtrusive Second System, the idea will be to have the DML's in use with the TV or equivalent is used for Home Entertainment evenings.
One room will be a space of approx' 4mtr x 4mtr and has a TV area already demarcated on a plan, there is opportunity to have the Panels inner frames set at approx' 2mtrs between them and have a Panel of up to a 1000mm in width, in this room the Height of the Panel can be longer than the width, if it able to be adequately disguised as a Wall Art, then the presence would not be an point of concern.
The Other Space will be approx' 8mtr x 6mtr and there is two free areas of wall available with a Window Space separating the walls at a spacing of 3.5mtrs.
On these free spaces a Speaker could, if adequately disguised be approx' 1000mm in width and again longer in the length.
I will need to take guidance on the dimensions, as I do not know the benefits of the different surface areas.
I am also starting to Wonder, now I reading the reports on these panels in use, if these might find a place in the Bedroom allocated system.
and what size panel would your wife like. ( I am in discussion with Karen on this subject, she has been introduced to the recordings on this thread, and has grasped the idea of the SQ that can be attained, she is not too concerned at present about the Speakers, as long as they are able to look like a wall art or a print of a subject she will like to see in the space.
Her main concern is my overwhelming a room with devices used in the HiFi System, prior to my being thrown out and into the spare Bedroom, the system required a lot of floor space)
would it be used for surround sound (Yes that would be a bonus as the Old Tannoy Speakers used with the TV are 'persona non grata' and will not be allowed back in the home when re-establishing it, they may have already been chucked
.
how will you be expecting to mount the panel , on the wall ,or out into the room similar to a normal audio setup.
panels can be flexible 😁( The Panels would be almost permanently mounted on the wall, the only thing that would change the mounting, is if there was a agreed improvement for them in free space and when not using them for general listening, a positioning for them might be optimised).
basically what are your needs. (This is where the plan starts to come across as overkill, my wife likes her Alexia, I struggle with the Audio side but really enjoy the Convenience, hence the second system will be used to stream and play CD's, either from a CDP or as a FLAC File.
I will select a set of devices that can be reasonably easy to conceal and not be too much of a concern when not being monitored, so Valves are not included in the system, I have a Slagle AVC sitting idle and can possibly acquire a Neurochrome 65 Module for the Power Amp, I am familiar with the Neurochrome and am impressed by the design.
The streaming system will be an evolving plan.
Exciters are no different from ordinary full range cone drivers, 4 ohm or 8 ohm and so on if using multiple drivers.
the choice is yours. (This is good News so no loading concerns for an Amp, and do these function as a full range driver does, with no need to use a circuit prior to the exciter.
Thank You for your support and encouragement, I am very much looking forward to trying out my first attempt.
It will also be good to see how my local HiFi Group I am a member of respond to the design when they have a debut demonstration.
what size panel would , you ,like. ( For the Temporary Mobile Home, a Panel not exceeding a dimension of approx' 400mm x 400mm would be quite sufficient.
For the home when structural repairs are complete, there will be Three Rooms available to have a HiFi System of which one will be a Bedroom Space and become the allocated space for the main used HiFi System.
There will be Two other Rooms Locations, that will be used as reception rooms, and which I can set up the unobtrusive Second System, the idea will be to have the DML's in use with the TV or equivalent is used for Home Entertainment evenings.
One room will be a space of approx' 4mtr x 4mtr and has a TV area already demarcated on a plan, there is opportunity to have the Panels inner frames set at approx' 2mtrs between them and have a Panel of up to a 1000mm in width, in this room the Height of the Panel can be longer than the width, if it able to be adequately disguised as a Wall Art, then the presence would not be an point of concern.
The Other Space will be approx' 8mtr x 6mtr and there is two free areas of wall available with a Window Space separating the walls at a spacing of 3.5mtrs.
On these free spaces a Speaker could, if adequately disguised be approx' 1000mm in width and again longer in the length.
I will need to take guidance on the dimensions, as I do not know the benefits of the different surface areas.
I am also starting to Wonder, now I reading the reports on these panels in use, if these might find a place in the Bedroom allocated system.
and what size panel would your wife like. ( I am in discussion with Karen on this subject, she has been introduced to the recordings on this thread, and has grasped the idea of the SQ that can be attained, she is not too concerned at present about the Speakers, as long as they are able to look like a wall art or a print of a subject she will like to see in the space.
Her main concern is my overwhelming a room with devices used in the HiFi System, prior to my being thrown out and into the spare Bedroom, the system required a lot of floor space)
would it be used for surround sound (Yes that would be a bonus as the Old Tannoy Speakers used with the TV are 'persona non grata' and will not be allowed back in the home when re-establishing it, they may have already been chucked
.how will you be expecting to mount the panel , on the wall ,or out into the room similar to a normal audio setup.
panels can be flexible 😁( The Panels would be almost permanently mounted on the wall, the only thing that would change the mounting, is if there was a agreed improvement for them in free space and when not using them for general listening, a positioning for them might be optimised).
basically what are your needs. (This is where the plan starts to come across as overkill, my wife likes her Alexia, I struggle with the Audio side but really enjoy the Convenience, hence the second system will be used to stream and play CD's, either from a CDP or as a FLAC File.
I will select a set of devices that can be reasonably easy to conceal and not be too much of a concern when not being monitored, so Valves are not included in the system, I have a Slagle AVC sitting idle and can possibly acquire a Neurochrome 65 Module for the Power Amp, I am familiar with the Neurochrome and am impressed by the design.
The streaming system will be an evolving plan.
Exciters are no different from ordinary full range cone drivers, 4 ohm or 8 ohm and so on if using multiple drivers.
the choice is yours. (This is good News so no loading concerns for an Amp, and do these function as a full range driver does, with no need to use a circuit prior to the exciter.
Thank You for your support and encouragement, I am very much looking forward to trying out my first attempt.
It will also be good to see how my local HiFi Group I am a member of respond to the design when they have a debut demonstration.
Eric,
I posted in Application of Impulse Excitation for DML Design and Analysis #6 the outputs of the method you described. I think it is the best place to discuss about it and here the general questions of the panel.
It gives some characteristics of the XPS : rho = 33kg/m³, E = 31MPa, G=14MPa
The starting point of my question was in the FR of the XPS 9mm 20x30cm (see below). It was just glued on the exciter (the exciter a little bit of center 8.5cm, 14cm from the corner).
When I asked if there is a way to calculate the modes, it is because I was surprised by the peak at 43Hz (is it from a mode?) and also in the medium at 850Hz and 1.1kHz.
Do you think your FEM simulation can help?
I saw in the other thread you wonder about the influence of the exciter on the modes. For light materials like that one, my opinion it is it can have a role by adding a local mass and a compliance.
Christian
Christian,
I
I have not started trying to sort out the PS foam data yet. So far I was just looking at you plywood.
But just to clarify, is the FR above still for the free panel (i.e. no frame just suspended by strings)?
Concerning the weight of the exciter: I was a bit surprised to see that the exciter didn't seem to have any effect at all on the apparent resonant frequencies of my much larger and thicker (and frame mounted ) plywood panel. I have not tried done that comparison on lighter panels, but I would not be surprised if there was an effect.
Eric
I
Christian,
I have not started trying to sort out the PS foam data yet. So far I was just looking at you plywood.
But just to clarify, is the FR above still for the free panel (i.e. no frame just suspended by strings)?
Concerning the weight of the exciter: I was a bit surprised to see that the exciter didn't seem to have any effect at all on the apparent resonant frequencies of my much larger and thicker (and frame mounted ) plywood panel. I have not tried done that comparison on lighter panels, but I would not be surprised if there was an effect.
Eric
Steve,
We are in the process of moving to another house with bigger bedrooms, which will be great. Also great is the fact that about a fourth of the stuff being stored in the garage now will be gone, giving me room to set up a small workshop area, so I no longer will have to do my projects in my room. This will eliminate five 3-drawer units that were taking up quite a bit of space. This will give me more flexibility in setting up my room and my system. Now comes the bucket-full of questions. The room is about 410cmx440cm. The canvases are 30x40cm. I was thinking that I could hang the canvases from a cord stretched across under the ceiling slightly in front of my chest of drawers and tv. I believe you had said that angling them slightly inward will improve the experience, so I was thinking that I could bring the mid-point of the cord to a point on the middle of the back wall. That will also stiffen the cord. How close to the ceiling can I go, how close to the back wall can I go, and how close to the side walls can and should I be? Do you recommend hanging them, or having them down-firing? I have two 45x55cm melamine foam panels that I can mount on the wall behind the canvases if necessary. I could also cut them up and mount them directly to the back of the canvases. In the process of getting ready for the move, I discovered another nice subwoofer that I had forgotten about, so I will have ample low bass to compensate for the high-pass for the DMLs at 50Hz. I will also be using the excellent XRK971-designed speakers for additional room-filling sound, a pair in front and another pair as rear units. Any help on this will be appreciated.
We are in the process of moving to another house with bigger bedrooms, which will be great. Also great is the fact that about a fourth of the stuff being stored in the garage now will be gone, giving me room to set up a small workshop area, so I no longer will have to do my projects in my room. This will eliminate five 3-drawer units that were taking up quite a bit of space. This will give me more flexibility in setting up my room and my system. Now comes the bucket-full of questions. The room is about 410cmx440cm. The canvases are 30x40cm. I was thinking that I could hang the canvases from a cord stretched across under the ceiling slightly in front of my chest of drawers and tv. I believe you had said that angling them slightly inward will improve the experience, so I was thinking that I could bring the mid-point of the cord to a point on the middle of the back wall. That will also stiffen the cord. How close to the ceiling can I go, how close to the back wall can I go, and how close to the side walls can and should I be? Do you recommend hanging them, or having them down-firing? I have two 45x55cm melamine foam panels that I can mount on the wall behind the canvases if necessary. I could also cut them up and mount them directly to the back of the canvases. In the process of getting ready for the move, I discovered another nice subwoofer that I had forgotten about, so I will have ample low bass to compensate for the high-pass for the DMLs at 50Hz. I will also be using the excellent XRK971-designed speakers for additional room-filling sound, a pair in front and another pair as rear units. Any help on this will be appreciated.
Yes it is the free panel. XPS 9mm 20x30cm. No frame, no strings. The membrane is something like17g so just held by a double side tape on the exciter voice coil.
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Johnnog and jaxboy..
I made some recordings of me holding up the art panel close to walls and ceilings.
Mounting the panel flat to a wall is not a good idea as the sound is heavily restricted.
John, you like quad electrostatic panels ,would you screw them flat to a wall or put them in a box ?
But I did find while holding up the art panel close to the wall ,that if it was swung out from the wall as if on a hinge, the sound was still very good.
So the panels could be swung out from the side walls the front walls or ceiling using friction hinges ?
Which would allow the panels to be pushed back up against the wall when not in use ?
When in my seating position in me room ,I could just swing the panel out to point directly at me, but because of the very good spread of sound the panel does not have to be pointing directly at me.
I also suggested using this sort of mounting for my smaller panels, see picture,
tilting inwards , any type of panel ,so that it is not parallel to the rear wall is always a good idea, to help prevent standing waves and cancellations.
Jaxboy, it should be easy for you to hold up your art panels to the walls and experiment with a angles and let us know how it goes.
Steve.
I made some recordings of me holding up the art panel close to walls and ceilings.
Mounting the panel flat to a wall is not a good idea as the sound is heavily restricted.
John, you like quad electrostatic panels ,would you screw them flat to a wall or put them in a box ?
But I did find while holding up the art panel close to the wall ,that if it was swung out from the wall as if on a hinge, the sound was still very good.
So the panels could be swung out from the side walls the front walls or ceiling using friction hinges ?
Which would allow the panels to be pushed back up against the wall when not in use ?
When in my seating position in me room ,I could just swing the panel out to point directly at me, but because of the very good spread of sound the panel does not have to be pointing directly at me.
I also suggested using this sort of mounting for my smaller panels, see picture,
tilting inwards , any type of panel ,so that it is not parallel to the rear wall is always a good idea, to help prevent standing waves and cancellations.
Jaxboy, it should be easy for you to hold up your art panels to the walls and experiment with a angles and let us know how it goes.
Steve.
Attachments
Hi Steve
Again Thank You for your continued support.
On some of the ideas that are developing, you are not alone, I have been pondering mounting methods myself, there is a bit on this further along in the post.
I do not have my Quads tight to the rear wall, they are usually 800mm 'ish' forward, but the frame used for the mounting the Stacked Array does sit with a small spacing between it and the side walls.
I also have in use a Triangle Shaped Rockwool Absorption Panel in the Rooms Corners and a Foam that is designed to be used for acoustic control as an Absorption Panel as the outer layer to the Rockwool built in behind the Quads, the same Rockwool structures are also on the opposite end wall corners as well.
I am also using diffusers in the room, under these conditions the Speakers couple to the room in a very attractive manner.
When the permanent room for the HiFi is once more back in use, these absorption methods will be reintroduced, and it is a environment I would really enjoy trying the DML's in.
As an early thought process, I been thinking about having a Wall Hung TV Bracket utilised to mount the Panels onto, this idea developed as a Wall Bracket is already an option for the room with the TV Location demarcated.
I was also thinking that as there is a very small weight created for the Cantilever when a DML is mounted, compared to a TV.
There might be an option to make a Telescopic Modification to a wall bracket to allow a furthering of the distance into the room from the wall for the DML, a side ways swing to increase or decrease the distance to a side wall and create a Toe In adjustment for the Bracket should prove to be the easier adaption, and the bracket design will most likely offer the required movement.
The Image will be a Thousand Words to show a basic design.
Again Thank You for your continued support.
On some of the ideas that are developing, you are not alone, I have been pondering mounting methods myself, there is a bit on this further along in the post.
I do not have my Quads tight to the rear wall, they are usually 800mm 'ish' forward, but the frame used for the mounting the Stacked Array does sit with a small spacing between it and the side walls.
I also have in use a Triangle Shaped Rockwool Absorption Panel in the Rooms Corners and a Foam that is designed to be used for acoustic control as an Absorption Panel as the outer layer to the Rockwool built in behind the Quads, the same Rockwool structures are also on the opposite end wall corners as well.
I am also using diffusers in the room, under these conditions the Speakers couple to the room in a very attractive manner.
When the permanent room for the HiFi is once more back in use, these absorption methods will be reintroduced, and it is a environment I would really enjoy trying the DML's in.
As an early thought process, I been thinking about having a Wall Hung TV Bracket utilised to mount the Panels onto, this idea developed as a Wall Bracket is already an option for the room with the TV Location demarcated.
I was also thinking that as there is a very small weight created for the Cantilever when a DML is mounted, compared to a TV.
There might be an option to make a Telescopic Modification to a wall bracket to allow a furthering of the distance into the room from the wall for the DML, a side ways swing to increase or decrease the distance to a side wall and create a Toe In adjustment for the Bracket should prove to be the easier adaption, and the bracket design will most likely offer the required movement.
The Image will be a Thousand Words to show a basic design.
John .
that mounting looks pretty rigid , and could ,if the dimensions are right ,make a good tectonic clone.
yes you could be onto a winner there.
unlike larger panels ,such as your quads , smaller dml panels can go closer to walls with less interaction problems.
if I remember rightly, it's been a few years since I've heard old quads, your quads roll off slowly below about 200hz ?
you will be surprised at how much low end is created by such a small art panel.
I personally prefer my small panels to be about 1m or so from the floor.
This places the exciter position at about 1,2m above the floor which in my room is about half way between floor and ceiling.
I prefer this as it gives a sense of space all around the panel , and vocalists and musicians are standing up in front of me and not with their heads poking out of the floor, as with many small floor standing speakers.
This way you have a vast sound stage from floor to ceiling, and beyond.
Listening to the reverberation around a church when the organ is playing is amazing.
The tectonic dml panel is 400mm by 575mm so if you want to base your panel on this and want me to test it , it is up to you.
I just this second went on to the tectonic website to look at the dml500 pdf sheet and got a 403 forbidden notice ?
Is it me, or has tectonic noticed my interest on this site and blocked it ?
If they have, its too late, but I'm up for some bribery though 😃 £££££££
Steve
that mounting looks pretty rigid , and could ,if the dimensions are right ,make a good tectonic clone.
yes you could be onto a winner there.
unlike larger panels ,such as your quads , smaller dml panels can go closer to walls with less interaction problems.
if I remember rightly, it's been a few years since I've heard old quads, your quads roll off slowly below about 200hz ?
you will be surprised at how much low end is created by such a small art panel.
I personally prefer my small panels to be about 1m or so from the floor.
This places the exciter position at about 1,2m above the floor which in my room is about half way between floor and ceiling.
I prefer this as it gives a sense of space all around the panel , and vocalists and musicians are standing up in front of me and not with their heads poking out of the floor, as with many small floor standing speakers.
This way you have a vast sound stage from floor to ceiling, and beyond.
Listening to the reverberation around a church when the organ is playing is amazing.
The tectonic dml panel is 400mm by 575mm so if you want to base your panel on this and want me to test it , it is up to you.
I just this second went on to the tectonic website to look at the dml500 pdf sheet and got a 403 forbidden notice ?
Is it me, or has tectonic noticed my interest on this site and blocked it ?
If they have, its too late, but I'm up for some bribery though 😃 £££££££
Steve
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A couple of days ago I was going to put a small panel on my naked canvas panel, it is just canvas with a dome in the middle of the coil.
I accidentally pulled the canvas off the coil while trying to pull out the pushed in dome .
anyway to cut a long story short, I realised I had not added any pva to the canvas, so have ,for completeness, decided to now add the pva and see what happens.
before doing this I decided to take some measurements at 30cm.
the first I took thinking there is nothing below 100hz only the road noise and my footsteps.
then realised I still had the xo on,
the second picture is also at 30cm ,now you can see that there is still out put down nearly to 20hz admittedly lower down in volume level.
but can this be built on?
I think I might prefer the sound of the naked canvas panel ? And the response is pretty good.
I'm just wondering how far down this type of panel will go without stress, although it is already well within the performance band I am interested in ,to fit in with my transmission line speakers which roll off at 300hz.
We shall see ?
Steve.
I accidentally pulled the canvas off the coil while trying to pull out the pushed in dome .
anyway to cut a long story short, I realised I had not added any pva to the canvas, so have ,for completeness, decided to now add the pva and see what happens.
before doing this I decided to take some measurements at 30cm.
the first I took thinking there is nothing below 100hz only the road noise and my footsteps.
then realised I still had the xo on,
the second picture is also at 30cm ,now you can see that there is still out put down nearly to 20hz admittedly lower down in volume level.
but can this be built on?
I think I might prefer the sound of the naked canvas panel ? And the response is pretty good.
I'm just wondering how far down this type of panel will go without stress, although it is already well within the performance band I am interested in ,to fit in with my transmission line speakers which roll off at 300hz.
We shall see ?
Steve.
