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Amplifier Modules and PCBs For Sale

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commstech

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Joined 2002
I thought of doing this. Noctua 'noiseless fans' .But i have no idea how to mount them yet. the 2 40mm fans side by side sit nicely on the ATS heatsink. Anyone has any idea?
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Deleted member 148505

No need to worry if it's less than 50deg at idle.
It is heating up due to idle dissipation / system loss. You can use KSD-01F 65deg if you plan to place a fan, but I think it won't trigger if you are just using it in your home.

Regards,
Lester
 
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commstech

Member
Joined 2002
Lester, playing the amp in open air (not housed in a chassis currently), the temp is comfortably warm. Didnt really alarm me. I can place my fingers on the heatsink for as long as i want to. I didnt measure the temp. Not too sure how is things going to be when commissioned in a full aluminum case with ventilation slots. My intention is for this amp to be playing music in the background while i work. Small working space, not playing loud but quite a few hours a day continuously. I am not sure how warm it can get. So i purchased the fans in case i really need them.... maybe i am just paranoid , because i keep reading comments about how 'hot' they can get.
 
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Deleted member 148505

It will only add a couple of degrees, (maybe around 10 deg C) when it's already inside the chassis.

Just make sure that there are ventilation slots on the top of aluminum chassis as well as the bottom plate so that the air will circulate.

For normal listening levels, additional dissipation depends on how difficult it is to drive your speakers. I think it will be a couple of degrees (2 to 5 deg C) more than idling.

In the graph below, 20W output only adds around 2W of additional heat. 20W average output is loud already.

Passive setup is good. :)
 

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454Casull

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Joined 2004
asuslover said:
It will be very difficult to "fill up" that block with heat
Click to expand...
Not really. All it will take is a matter of time before you've reached steady-state heat transfer into the surrounding air.
but my idea is to add a heatsink on top of that block. Similar to DC-HS11123 Aluminum Heat Sink Kit 218.44 x 58.42 x 18mm parts express
Click to expand...
Then all you'll have done is create a very expensive heatsink that performs relatively poorly.
 
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454Casull

Member
Joined 2004
JLesterP said:
I think I will just create a power amp with balanced input. I will change the resistors to 6.8K ohm (0.05% 0603 SMT) so that 2Vrms signals can drive the amp into full power.
Click to expand...
Please still provide single-ended inputs as well. But yes, that is great news, my Aurora only does 1.5 V output (regardless of single-ended or balanced output).

Also, a few notes on the RPS-400-36:

Modulus-686: 380W (4Ω); 220W (8Ω) Balanced Composite Power Amp with extremely low THD
Modulus-686: 380W (4Ω); 220W (8Ω) Balanced Composite Power Amp with extremely low THD
 
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454Casull

Member
Joined 2004
commstech said:
I thought of doing this. Noctua 'noiseless fans' .But i have no idea how to mount them yet. the 2 40mm fans side by side sit nicely on the ATS heatsink. Anyone has any idea?
Click to expand...
I would've suspended an 80 mm (up to 120 mm) fan on some EPDM rubber cords tied to some eye bolts stuck on the inside of the chassis. Kind of like how Antec used to mount the hard drives in their old P150 PC chassis.

https://www.legitreviews.com/images/reviews/352/antec_p150_suspensionjpg.jpg
 
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ppppp

Member
Joined 2009
Yes, use rubber and Noctuas will be silent. Do not use hard screwed connection - Noctuas will transfer vibration to the heatsink and provide hearable hum/noise. Personal experience with 80, 90 and 120mm Noctuas.

BTW, Commstech, on your photo you have that Noctuas upside-down. More suitable use is to blow air at heatsink, not sucking it from heatsink.
 
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commstech

Member
Joined 2002
pppp,

i have randomly placed them on the heatsink just for the sake of posing for pic to illustrate what i am thinking of doing. I do understand what you mean regarding the upside down issue. And yes, i think you have made a good point on the vibration to the heatsink. Thanks for that.
 
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Deleted member 148505

454Casull said:
Please still provide single-ended inputs as well. But yes, that is great news, my Aurora only does 1.5 V output (regardless of single-ended or balanced output).

Also, a few notes on the RPS-400-36:

Modulus-686: 380W (4Ω); 220W (8Ω) Balanced Composite Power Amp with extremely low THD
Modulus-686: 380W (4Ω); 220W (8Ω) Balanced Composite Power Amp with extremely low THD
Click to expand...

Once we change the gain, we can't easily change from SE to Balanced and vice versa. A redesign or a preamp is needed.

Thanks for the info about RPS-400-36. Too bad the 300W model doesn't have 36V variant.

454Casull said:
If it's just to house the module for shielding/grounding/mechanical protection, do you have something like this locally available?

https://www.amazon.ca/Fat-Daddios-Anodized-Sheet-Cake/dp/B0017Z20V4/

I am using 2 of the 16" x 12" x 3" version, clamshell-style, to house my amps.
Click to expand...

I'm having difficulties with case work so I like it to be as finished as possible. I have around 5pcs amp chassis here that are not yet done because of it.

I also found smaller and cheaper 45USD and 60USD aluminum chassis but they don't have air vents.

ppppp said:
BTW, Lester, I received TPA3255 PFFB board on friday.

Havent tested it yet, because I still dont have capacitors :rolleyes: ... But the board seems to have good layout and quality. Good job. Thank you!
Click to expand...

Nice! thank you and you're welcome =)
 

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454Casull

Member
Joined 2004
JLesterP said:
Once we change the gain, we can't easily change from SE to Balanced and vice versa. A redesign or a preamp is needed.
Click to expand...
Oh, well. Balanced is the better way anyway... especially since TPA32xx has native differential inputs.

For the multi-board sync signals, is it possible to add through-holes for header connectors so that we don't have to solder wires onto surface pads?
 
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Deleted member 148505

454Casull said:
Oh, well. Balanced is the better way anyway... especially since TPA32xx has native differential inputs.

For the multi-board sync signals, is it possible to add through-holes for header connectors so that we don't have to solder wires onto surface pads?
Click to expand...

You can use 2.54mm right angle breakable header. Pitch is exactly the same and it has wide pad to solder into.
 

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Deleted member 148505

commstech said:
I am getting an annoying 'pop' when powering on, which raised my concerns. Powering down has a much lower level faint and dull thud which I feel, bearable. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Hi is it without source connected or without? Also is it instantaneous with power on?

The module has a voltage supervisor that will hold the reset down by 1.2 seconds after power-on. So after 1.2 seconds, it will enable the amp and will allow the sound to play.
 
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