If you don’t have the equipment and the proper “tuning” procedure, you could make things worse not better by installing the optional components.
Do you have an oscilloscope and an ADC, or do you still need something special?
@Traktorist3d
WIMA FKP 100n is produced only in a big package (15mm lead spacing)
... there is not the exact alternative, but KEMET capacitors offer a good sound result, like the 80-PHE426HJ6100JR05
As fellows mentioned above, rather omit the adjustment, it can be complicated and impossible without the necessary accessories
WIMA FKP 100n is produced only in a big package (15mm lead spacing)
... there is not the exact alternative, but KEMET capacitors offer a good sound result, like the 80-PHE426HJ6100JR05As fellows mentioned above, rather omit the adjustment, it can be complicated and impossible without the necessary accessories
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@ T.
A possibility is to try some nice smd package between 0805 to 1210, film type : pps / acrylic :
it will be as good if not better than FKPs but ask some tolerance sorting for the capacitance and to be soldered with some flux between the two 5 mm vias.
Stay ceramic class I for the shift registers, the blue ones of the BOM are perfectly fine.
Then local decoupling for the oaps is about your power supply tipology and taste if lytic from several uF needed - often not with modern reg chips and oaps but the local 100 nF or close... RTFM as always of the active parts you choose-
A possibility is to try some nice smd package between 0805 to 1210, film type : pps / acrylic :
it will be as good if not better than FKPs but ask some tolerance sorting for the capacitance and to be soldered with some flux between the two 5 mm vias.
Stay ceramic class I for the shift registers, the blue ones of the BOM are perfectly fine.
Then local decoupling for the oaps is about your power supply tipology and taste if lytic from several uF needed - often not with modern reg chips and oaps but the local 100 nF or close... RTFM as always of the active parts you choose-
FKP2 iirc (the non metalized ones with yellow back at Wima) is the ones I usually choose but just available in few nano.
My opinions, at those noise floor, you don't care the few db noise floor, you care what you can hear and sometimes the dielectric or the way the cap is made gives you more difference than what you mind and eyes should keep...
I know several situations where acrylic PPS was way better than C0G or MKP when passing the hearing test. It saves me a clock of IanCanada with Crystek 957.
Rogic himself uses them for the DEM decoupling of the good late TDA1541 chips. Go figure, C0G sounds crap here and nothing near the inductance of the 0805 PPS
At iso capacitance and inductance for some reasons we will not try to explain because we don't care here in this casual easy all to try pcb, they can give (often) a good equilibrium in the analog domain but with more surprise with the digital domain too. It's like some that putted everywhere the ES Muse because a belgium hifi review said they have the best noise floor : it was often a very bad result at hearing : designing with noise floor is not enough or all the todays devices since several decades would sound perfectly find.
I agree on the number you say, but sometimes, locally in the whole heared result, it's a no go for the music ! go figure! Don't want to arguer about that in this cool thread. My advice is perfectly good enough here for this pcb, but MKP too and if already soldered, I will leave the former caps. But as some of us have some pcb more, it's also something you may want to test if time enough and if it serves your whole devices in the final result.
My opinions, at those noise floor, you don't care the few db noise floor, you care what you can hear and sometimes the dielectric or the way the cap is made gives you more difference than what you mind and eyes should keep...
I know several situations where acrylic PPS was way better than C0G or MKP when passing the hearing test. It saves me a clock of IanCanada with Crystek 957.
Rogic himself uses them for the DEM decoupling of the good late TDA1541 chips. Go figure, C0G sounds crap here and nothing near the inductance of the 0805 PPS
At iso capacitance and inductance for some reasons we will not try to explain because we don't care here in this casual easy all to try pcb, they can give (often) a good equilibrium in the analog domain but with more surprise with the digital domain too. It's like some that putted everywhere the ES Muse because a belgium hifi review said they have the best noise floor : it was often a very bad result at hearing : designing with noise floor is not enough or all the todays devices since several decades would sound perfectly find.
I agree on the number you say, but sometimes, locally in the whole heared result, it's a no go for the music ! go figure! Don't want to arguer about that in this cool thread. My advice is perfectly good enough here for this pcb, but MKP too and if already soldered, I will leave the former caps. But as some of us have some pcb more, it's also something you may want to test if time enough and if it serves your whole devices in the final result.
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Unfornatly, you must often have two I2S source to know if the problem comes from the source ot the dac pcb. Yes first solve the problem without the hat to reduce the number of things to check.
So you had any sound of the dac yet ? Read the aventure of ErnstErnst in the other Miro dac thread, the headphone one and check all with a magnyfing glass and a buzzer VDM
So you had any sound of the dac yet ? Read the aventure of ErnstErnst in the other Miro dac thread, the headphone one and check all with a magnyfing glass and a buzzer VDM