DIY Class A/B Amp The "Wolverine" build thread

Do you want it regulated? Do you want a 'traditional' CRC filter, a CLC filter a CRCLC filter ... etc. etc
lol... well to be honest... I dont know. I have 2 transformers... for each channel one so thats lineair. Whats regulated lineair?... As for the crc filter... I only know about the quasimodo setup as I have the jig. 2 capacitors in paralell with each secondary and 1 resistor. I looked at the V3 Psu capacitor part only and was wandering how that would work. 1 transformer with 2 secondaries for 1 channel so each channel has its own V+ gnd V-. The pcb layout of the V3 with 8 caps hasn't got the possibility to have 2 seperate channels are am I wrong?

reg

w
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
@wkloppen Can I ask why you have the board so high off the heatsink? Are you mounting other boards below, or is that just for mock-up and soldering process and then you will mount "normally" as a final stage of completion? Great job by the way - looking good!
The long standoffs are there for easy soldering. A trick I copied from Stuart.....
Im mounting them with 10mm standoffs + a 0.25 mm shim to perfectly align the headers without pressure but fully engaged.
 
Member
Joined 2019
Paid Member
lol... well to be honest... I dont know.
No worries. I don't either. :)
I have 2 transformers... for each channel one so thats lineair.
Yes, if you already have purchased this, you will be building a linear supply vs. a SMPS. I will only answer the parts I may know about. PSUs have a lot of pros and cons. However, from what I have read, this amplifier is wonderfully tolerant and performs well with all properly made PSUs regardless of one's personal opinions or proclivities.

Whats regulated lineair?...
Regulated means that if your mains AC voltage moves up and down, that the DC output of the PSU should remain the "same". In an unregulated "linear" supply, the DC output voltage would go up and down linearly with the mains voltage. If your area has big changes in mains voltage, a regulated supply could be a benefit. If the power in your area swings badly, and or if you're just a perfectionist... then a regulated supply may be for you.

I, just me, think you're fine with a simple linear supply with this amp unless your mains voltage regularly swings over +/-5%. Others may throw stones at me.

As for the crc filter... I only know about the quasimodo setup as I have the jig. 2 capacitors in paralell with each secondary and 1 resistor. I looked at the V3 Psu capacitor part only and was wandering how that would work. 1 transformer with 2 secondaries for 1 channel so each channel has its own V+ gnd V-. The pcb layout of the V3 with 8 caps hasn't got the possibility to have 2 seperate channels are am I wrong?
Quasimodo is for choosing the values for your snubber based on your transformers. Unrelated to the type of filter or 'smoothing' you use.

If you have two transformers and intend to build a "dual mono" amplifier, then you would need two PSUs ; one for each channel.
Example - PSU 1 - V+ and V- for left channel. PSU 2 - V+ and V- for right channel.

If you're uncertain, I would read back into this thread, find pictures of a build with a linear supply and two toroids that you think is pretty... ask them how they did it ... copy it exactly or very closely. Don't worry about which PSU boards to buy yet or what parts to buy for it. Decide which one first.

From what I have read... this amplifier will perform wonderfully with just about any (properly built and designed) PSU you throw at it. If you intend to use your PSU for multiple amplifiers, which many people do, your choices may narrow.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
If you have two transformers and intend to build a "dual mono" amplifier, then you would need two PSUs ; one for each channel.
Example - PSU 1 - V+ and V- for left channel. PSU 2 - V+ and V- for right channel.
my thoughts indeed and yes I'm uncertain. Dont want make obvious mistakes. Or at least as little as possible. I got one V3 but need a second one.
 
Member
Joined 2019
Paid Member
^ Ah, that explains why you were looking so hard at the UPS V3, since you already have one.

A few options, but there are many more...

Get 2 of another type of board that will work with what you have, like the ones in the Etsy store I linked. You'll not be using the rectifier section of the V3 anyway. Maybe save the V3 for a project where you want to use discreet rectifiers or sell it.​
Wait for the UPS V3 to come back into stock and get another.​
Build one filter board with the UPS V3 and get another one of another type. Ensure important electrical equivalence.​
Use another type of PSU.​
Wire your filter point to point w/o boards and don't worry about the snubber.​

I'd just get two of another type of board that works with what you already have.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
This is not a Wolverine, but the wiring should be very close. I took the Live and Neutral from the IEC input socket, Live goes to switch on front panel and then Live (after switch) and Neutral go to the bottom right hand side of the SMPS.
the Secondaries are all behind the heatsink and coded by heat-shrink in Black (Negative), Red (Positive) and Green (0) that goes to a "start ground bolt in the chassis.
the Positive and Negative go to a buss bar, Positive (Red) on the Left lug and Negative (Black) on the Right lug (both channels are stacked on a single lug.
Ground - I take a ground from the speaker ground, ground (0) from the SMPS and both Grounds (signal and Power) from the amplifier boards all go to the "Star Ground" lug connected to the chassis.
I was worried about the wiring, but the amp is the quietest one in my fleet, hum is so low I can barely hear it at night with my ear touching the woofer. The fan on the SMPS is the loudest thing the amp case and I can't hear it 2 feet away.
Hope my explanation and pictures help, but honestly an SMPS is the simplest and quickest way to have an amp singing.

Link to the SMPS - better pictures so you know the connection points better.
AliExpress 1200W SMPS +/-65V
Thank you, I was thinking that it is plug and play, but I was not too sure about that :) thanx a lot. I want to add standby mode how you handled that? SMPS1200A400 refers that it needs another power supply for that.?
 
Member
Joined 2013
Paid Member
Thank you, I was thinking that it is plug and play, but I was not too sure about that :) thanx a lot. I want to add standby mode how you handled that? SMPS1200A400 refers that it needs another power supply for that.?
I don't use stand-by for any of my amps, linear or SMPS, I use the power switch, or a trigger (12V) signal from my pre-amp/processor to turn on-off. Wouldn't be able to give much information, as I gotten around to build a trigger set-up for this SMPS set-up. Still deciding if I like the amp enough to keep it (I purchased the amp channel boards non-working and repaired them a week ago) So far, impressed with the SMPS noise level and the PeeCeeBee V4H amplifiers.
 
I am trial fitting the driver heatsink to find out there was a mixup of the drill pattern in Rev 31 which was corrected in Rev 32. Too late for me. I have to drill another hole for Q103. I don't mind, but better use the latest revision of the (excellent) build guild.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
About Q103 (MJE340) I noticed that the metal on the back (connected to the collector) comes really close to the mounting hole (less than 0.3mm). But since the collector voltage is close to the output voltage and the heatsink is grounded we have to respect a minimum creeping distance. The mounting hole for this device is not large enough to fit a plastic shoulder washer. So I am inclined to use a shoulder washer on the opposite side of the heatsink in order to isolate the screw. But I see many builds where the screw is fixed directly in the heatsink by means of a M3 threading. Am I missing something ?
 
About Q103 (MJE340) I noticed that the metal on the back (connected to the collector) comes really close to the mounting hole (less than 0.3mm). But since the collector voltage is close to the output voltage and the heatsink is grounded we have to respect a minimum creeping distance. The mounting hole for this device is not large enough to fit a plastic shoulder washer. So I am inclined to use a shoulder washer on the opposite side of the heatsink in order to isolate the screw. But I see many builds where the screw is fixed directly in the heatsink by means of a M3 threading. Am I missing something ?
Put a short piece of heatshrink sleeving over the M3 screw if you are worried. However the creepage path is much longer than the 0.3mm as it includes the plastic of the power transistor it is mounted on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Member
Joined 2016
Paid Member
Hello Kokkie,...I saw that too and used just a mica insulator with grease on both sides so no shoulder washer. Ithink its fine but of course not a 100% sure. I measured it a couple of times in the process and it appeared to be fine and meter didn't indicate anything.
Please use a shoulder washer from both sides. You may have to trim the length of the shoulder washer just slightly to ensure they don't crush once the mounting screw it tightened up.
 
Second Wolverine eventually up and running and sounds as good/great as the first one. The first one was a EF3-4 in a 5U box and this one is a EF3-3 in a 4U box….a bit of a tight squeeze but nice not having to tap holes in the heat sink.

Both use a 56v power supply which i was going to use on a pair of Class A mono blocks. After building and listening to the Wolverine I shelved any Class A ideas I had…the Wolverine is soooo gooood!!!

It’s a fun and great project and the end result is incredibly satisfying!!!
Thank you Wolverine team!!!
 

Attachments

  • 651787C7-1945-4A6D-BADB-C55F85C35901.jpeg
    651787C7-1945-4A6D-BADB-C55F85C35901.jpeg
    595.4 KB · Views: 253
  • Like
Reactions: 9 users
Second Wolverine eventually up and running and sounds as good/great as the first one. The first one was a EF3-4 in a 5U box and this one is a EF3-3 in a 4U box….a bit of a tight squeeze but nice not having to tap holes in the heat sink.

A very nice example for me in terms of layout. It puts me in doubt how on earth I could fit in 2 transformers, one for each channel with 2 PSU's in there as well. Stacking the transformers is one thing but the 2 PSU's is another.......hmmm

w.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user