I believe that model was to be called "Super". It was the model I was interested in building and asked about it early last year. Unfortunately, the reply was there were no plans to complete it. I was bummed but proceeded to build the Ultras. If there is enough information for this model, I may be forced into another project this summer.
I've gone through a bunch of John's emails and can't find a reference to a speaker using the NE123W-08 and FSL-1830R03-08.
He did have some 18" woofers that he mated, at least on mock up, with the Tang Band W8-214. He gave no specifics about the baffle size or crossover and the woofers were no longer available. He had a few ideas for using that woofer but it never turned into a product. He sold them off several years back.
The only project he went into detail about was the upgraded 15" Manzi with the bigger wings. Even then he didn't give specific crossover values but he did give a lot of hints as to tuning the existing crossover to match the new baffle. Those details were posted earlier in this thread.
Going through the old emails reminds me about how many speakers he was working on at any given time. And it's frustrating that so many of them never got schlepped to the Lone Star show. It would have been great to hear them.
I wish there were a few bits of information in the old emails. Maybe Pano will have more luck.
He did have some 18" woofers that he mated, at least on mock up, with the Tang Band W8-214. He gave no specifics about the baffle size or crossover and the woofers were no longer available. He had a few ideas for using that woofer but it never turned into a product. He sold them off several years back.
The only project he went into detail about was the upgraded 15" Manzi with the bigger wings. Even then he didn't give specific crossover values but he did give a lot of hints as to tuning the existing crossover to match the new baffle. Those details were posted earlier in this thread.
Going through the old emails reminds me about how many speakers he was working on at any given time. And it's frustrating that so many of them never got schlepped to the Lone Star show. It would have been great to hear them.
I wish there were a few bits of information in the old emails. Maybe Pano will have more luck.
Another Manzanita on its way.
I had a very negative experience with Europe Audio - see here - which I strongly advice anybody to avoid even if prices are attractive and they seem to have everythingm in reality they don't, they never replied to any email or call, nor refunded the whole amount paid when I asked to cancel the order.
Anyhow, in the meanwhile I've made the speakers' base. I got inspiration from John Heisz - Speakers and Audio Projects with some modifications for estetic and sound purposes.
The bases is a mix of plywood layers, and MDF, then cut with table saw. the column is in tropical hardwood, I started with a full column, but looked to heavy, and I was worried with reflective issues, so I decided to open it and round the edges. Wood is unfinished, will post the rest in a couple of weeks.
Hope you like it.
Thanks again for the supportm
David
I had a very negative experience with Europe Audio - see here - which I strongly advice anybody to avoid even if prices are attractive and they seem to have everythingm in reality they don't, they never replied to any email or call, nor refunded the whole amount paid when I asked to cancel the order.
Anyhow, in the meanwhile I've made the speakers' base. I got inspiration from John Heisz - Speakers and Audio Projects with some modifications for estetic and sound purposes.
The bases is a mix of plywood layers, and MDF, then cut with table saw. the column is in tropical hardwood, I started with a full column, but looked to heavy, and I was worried with reflective issues, so I decided to open it and round the edges. Wood is unfinished, will post the rest in a couple of weeks.
Hope you like it.
Thanks again for the supportm
David
Hi All, me again, struggling with the crossover for the Manzanita 12".
All things connected I can hear a very low volume from the woofer, and nothing from the tweeter, even at maximum volume on the source and on the DAC/preamp.
I have a SMSL C200 DAC/preamp, and a Hypex Ncore NC122MP. these works well with another pair of speakers that I already had.
Soldering is what it is, see picture, first time, but I guess everything is connected and there's no craking noise when touching to the various joints and they feel solid.
Do I understan well that the negative from the power amp should be connected to the negative on the woofer and positive on the tweeter?
I am attaching a drawing of the schematic that I used.
Hope you can help!
Thanks,
David
All things connected I can hear a very low volume from the woofer, and nothing from the tweeter, even at maximum volume on the source and on the DAC/preamp.
I have a SMSL C200 DAC/preamp, and a Hypex Ncore NC122MP. these works well with another pair of speakers that I already had.
Soldering is what it is, see picture, first time, but I guess everything is connected and there's no craking noise when touching to the various joints and they feel solid.
Do I understan well that the negative from the power amp should be connected to the negative on the woofer and positive on the tweeter?
I am attaching a drawing of the schematic that I used.
Hope you can help!
Thanks,
David
Attachments
OK. Yes the tweeter should be in reverse polarity.
Your hand drawing schematic looks correct.
Tracing your wiring from those photos is difficult because the connections are under the board. I keep looking.
Go back point by point and verify your wiring. It’s a bit like proofreading your own text, it’s easy to miss mistakes.
EDIT: You might go the the underside of the crossover board and draw the component symbols between the connection points. Use pencil.
Your hand drawing schematic looks correct.
Tracing your wiring from those photos is difficult because the connections are under the board. I keep looking.
Go back point by point and verify your wiring. It’s a bit like proofreading your own text, it’s easy to miss mistakes.
EDIT: You might go the the underside of the crossover board and draw the component symbols between the connection points. Use pencil.
Pano's right, your schematic is correct.
I'm also having some issue tracing the circuit from the top photo to bottom photo but gave it a try. The woofer side of things seems fine. No idea why you aren't getting sound from the woofer.
On the tweeter side it looks like the lead to the tweeter (that would connect to the negative side of the tweeter) is in the circuit before R2 and L2 effectively removing that trap from the circuit. That would give you way too much high frequency but there would be sound.
It also isn't obvious where the other tweeter lead is located (which would go to the positive side of the tweeter). It's likely not in the photo.
Check the metal brackets holding the speaker terminals to make sure they aren't making contact with anything they aren't supposed to touch. That might short out the sound.
Good luck. You're almost there.
I'm also having some issue tracing the circuit from the top photo to bottom photo but gave it a try. The woofer side of things seems fine. No idea why you aren't getting sound from the woofer.
On the tweeter side it looks like the lead to the tweeter (that would connect to the negative side of the tweeter) is in the circuit before R2 and L2 effectively removing that trap from the circuit. That would give you way too much high frequency but there would be sound.
It also isn't obvious where the other tweeter lead is located (which would go to the positive side of the tweeter). It's likely not in the photo.
Check the metal brackets holding the speaker terminals to make sure they aren't making contact with anything they aren't supposed to touch. That might short out the sound.
Good luck. You're almost there.
Hi,
I would check the soldering. The soldering on the cap towards the 4.7R seems to be burnt, I'm not sure that this point is conductive. Also check the other soldering points - the solder should run into the recesses of the twisted wires/part legs and cover the whole joint. The first time is always difficult, the second run will be better.
I would check the soldering. The soldering on the cap towards the 4.7R seems to be burnt, I'm not sure that this point is conductive. Also check the other soldering points - the solder should run into the recesses of the twisted wires/part legs and cover the whole joint. The first time is always difficult, the second run will be better.