in your case, change is simple : make front plate for TFT, mount Logic module (plus IR sensor and rotary encoder) on it, mount it on case, connect wide and narrow flat cable to Motherboard, solder 3 thin wires between MoBo and module; that's it, power On, enjoy
package consisted of :
-assembled Logic module with 3.5" TFT screen, programmed and tested
-IR sensor with cable
-encoder with cable
-fancy Al slab remote control (Apple TV buttons arrangement)
-flat cables for Turtle and for input select
- CAD, pdf and Sketchup files necessary to produce front plate for TFT window (e-mailed)
250E, shipping and Paypal fee included in price
possible even for for first one ..........Vitalica have Iron Pumpkin (bal) first gen, with two channel pcbs
as Logic package was developed later, I also resorted to big Motherboard approach, making physical controls (as you have now - two rotary switches) and logic module absolutely compatible electrically, so matter of choice which controls one will end with
controls in first gen had common Neg Rail (meaning that +Rail for relays is switched) and for Logic module is necessary that +Rail is common, while relay negs are switched
thus we (Vitalica & Moi) needed to make specific changes for all relays in his Turtle ( rotating all diodes parallel to relay coils) and same for all input relays
then some cutting and small wires work on channel pcbs, adding small relay PSU aside, and connecting entire Shebang..... pretty extensive e-mail correspondence to get all that done
anyway, even that is possible, but tedious work if you're not breathing and living solder, especially if you already have Iron Pumpkin singing and now you must butcher it in pieces again
Funny TFT Logic module
example how it's done for Iron Pumpkin No.001
though, in this moment ....... while working on assembly of few IP kits already ordered, I'm in a middle of solving logistic problems, getting in quantity - Metglas (and finally! Finemet) cores, same as fancy Al slab remotes ....... as taught from Big Guy, I hate dealing and thinking in small quantities (even if production is limited by my own capabilities, number of heads and hands)
Life is fun .....
Hi ZM,
ok, let's do this! Please let me know how much more for super duper fast shipping to Canada.
Thanks
Do
So, I start colltecting the parts, especially the mains xformers, and here I'm slightly confused.
Pinocchio used in his build (great one!
) 2x15v secondaries, his Mightyness wrote 2x20 to 2x25(?)v, so I don't know.
To the remote control: what about the input selector switch when the RC unit is implemented, should/must it be removed?
In the video of ZM there seems to be a combined Zen amount/input selector switch where the inputs can be selected by pushing it. In this case, should one change the Zen amount switch too? My version don't have the push-function. Or am I completely wrong?
Pinocchio used in his build (great one!
) 2x15v secondaries, his Mightyness wrote 2x20 to 2x25(?)v, so I don't know.To the remote control: what about the input selector switch when the RC unit is implemented, should/must it be removed?
In the video of ZM there seems to be a combined Zen amount/input selector switch where the inputs can be selected by pushing it. In this case, should one change the Zen amount switch too? My version don't have the push-function. Or am I completely wrong?
will send you bunch of files and everything will be crystal clear from pics and schematics
regarding controls - it is either two mech. switches or Logic Module package ( Module + encoder on front panel + remote)
even flat cables are staying the same
now - Donuts
- relay side - 10VA 2x12V or 24Vct
-audio - either one piece of 20VA with two 30Vct secondaries, or two pieces of 10VA with 30Vct secondary
I'm using custom made ones, each having both static shield ( blind winding) and magnetic shield , and I don't have any hum or Brumm in 3U/280 Modu case
I prefer option with steel panels, simply because magnetic shielding of Turtle is better, less critical placement regarding big Donuts in amps etc
regarding controls - it is either two mech. switches or Logic Module package ( Module + encoder on front panel + remote)
even flat cables are staying the same
now - Donuts
- relay side - 10VA 2x12V or 24Vct
-audio - either one piece of 20VA with two 30Vct secondaries, or two pieces of 10VA with 30Vct secondary
I'm using custom made ones, each having both static shield ( blind winding) and magnetic shield , and I don't have any hum or Brumm in 3U/280 Modu case
I prefer option with steel panels, simply because magnetic shielding of Turtle is better, less critical placement regarding big Donuts in amps etc
Cool, many thanks! Regarding RC, I mean this video
Is this solution still possible?
you did ask me that in one of last e-mails and I did replied
yes, as I explained up, mechanical and Logic controls are exchangeable and fully compatible, meaning - MoBo doesn't care and doesn't need to know what's controlling it, as long it's happily singing
my ootoob vid posted after that one (you linked to) is showing exactly big MoBo plus Fancy things
though, me personally, I'm still in Move Your Buttttt tribe
yes, as I explained up, mechanical and Logic controls are exchangeable and fully compatible, meaning - MoBo doesn't care and doesn't need to know what's controlling it, as long it's happily singing
my ootoob vid posted after that one (you linked to) is showing exactly big MoBo plus Fancy things
though, me personally, I'm still in Move Your Buttttt tribe
It was'nt me
cheked all of our 107 (!) e-mailsIt's the inner values that count
and MYB is fine too Re RC unit, maybe I'm asking wrong
I mean, your mech. Zen amount controller on the front plate in the video seems to be different then mine, yours has a push function too.When you push it (with your index finger in the video), you can select the input and when you turn it, you change the Zen amount. My mech. Zen amount controller doesn't have the push function, that's why I'm asking so stupid
You have at the same time mech. and remote control for both input and Zen amount, which is cool and would be nice to have too.
I don't have a quasimodo to determine the best values for C111, C112, and R133. In schematic in Post 1 of this thread, R133 is 1K and C112 is 1nF, nothing in C111. Will that work satisfactorily? I'm using Antek toroid transformers.
I did try to find the answer to this question in this thread and the original Iron Pumpkin thread, but had no luck.
Thanks.
I did try to find the answer to this question in this thread and the original Iron Pumpkin thread, but had no luck.
Thanks.
