Karlson introduced his "X15" system in 1965 and the first units used a wooden miniature
version of his asymmetric projector. Somewhat later, parabolic slotted tubes were used
X15's tweeter tube mounted as shown in this near copy (my builder botched the woofer
cutout and raised it 7/8" too high - otherwise its pretty close)
Karlson experimented with K-tube diameter, and porting in his enclosures - K-tubes
are holographic, natural and "fast" sounding in general.
one can also put a tube on top with success - I've had a tube on top of a 48" tall cabinet
and it blended well.
This is a 42" tall K18 (could used with a 15" woofer) - notice there's a hole on the reflector panel where the K-tube normally mounts. its very good sounding as a 2-way.
version of his asymmetric projector. Somewhat later, parabolic slotted tubes were used
X15's tweeter tube mounted as shown in this near copy (my builder botched the woofer
cutout and raised it 7/8" too high - otherwise its pretty close)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Karlson experimented with K-tube diameter, and porting in his enclosures - K-tubes
are holographic, natural and "fast" sounding in general.
one can also put a tube on top with success - I've had a tube on top of a 48" tall cabinet
and it blended well.
This is a 42" tall K18 (could used with a 15" woofer) - notice there's a hole on the reflector panel where the K-tube normally mounts. its very good sounding as a 2-way.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
regarding making a practical K-tube - get some 1" diameter pvc pipe. If one has a printer then make a half ellipse based on a full ellipse 10.6 inches major axis and pi* the pipe's outside diameter minus a 1/8" starting gap minor axis.
the paper pattern is then taped to the pipe and marked with a marker - it then can be cut with a Dremel type tool then smoothed with sandpaper. A thin plywood piece can be cut and drilled to accept the finished K-tube so a compression driver will bolt up to the plate. Alternately, a thread on to bolt on adapter can be used to accommodate standard 1 3/8" threaded compression drivers. Some piezo drivers such as KSN1142 or 1142 copies can be used and just tape or glue the 1" ID K-tube to the end of the pieze driver. A 1.25" pvc tube will let a 1142 piezo driver slide into the tube.
a finished 1" ID tube will look like my example in the middle below.
as a quick proof of concept, one could roll a paper tube and cut with scissors.
thinwall pvc will work but may resonate a bit at higher spl.
copper or brass can look nice -- the extra 1.5" on this metal tube caused a notch to
appear around the bottom of its passband so 5.3" length per Transylvania Power Company's
"The Tube" is a good choice
here's a 1.25" pvc K-tube with Goldwood 1142 piezo pushed into the end - I've not measured
this piezo driver - it seems usable on the very cheap. That's 10lb of 8" woofer below in the
SK8 ("Super K8") prototype.
the paper pattern is then taped to the pipe and marked with a marker - it then can be cut with a Dremel type tool then smoothed with sandpaper. A thin plywood piece can be cut and drilled to accept the finished K-tube so a compression driver will bolt up to the plate. Alternately, a thread on to bolt on adapter can be used to accommodate standard 1 3/8" threaded compression drivers. Some piezo drivers such as KSN1142 or 1142 copies can be used and just tape or glue the 1" ID K-tube to the end of the pieze driver. A 1.25" pvc tube will let a 1142 piezo driver slide into the tube.
a finished 1" ID tube will look like my example in the middle below.
as a quick proof of concept, one could roll a paper tube and cut with scissors.
thinwall pvc will work but may resonate a bit at higher spl.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
copper or brass can look nice -- the extra 1.5" on this metal tube caused a notch to
appear around the bottom of its passband so 5.3" length per Transylvania Power Company's
"The Tube" is a good choice
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
here's a 1.25" pvc K-tube with Goldwood 1142 piezo pushed into the end - I've not measured
this piezo driver - it seems usable on the very cheap. That's 10lb of 8" woofer below in the
SK8 ("Super K8") prototype.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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MidBassDriver
Heres the Peerless:
Here are both the Peerless, the unknown, and the Focal tweeters
Here is the unknown speaker.
Freddi - Okay you gave me a lot to think about.
I"ll have to figurout how to do a pi cut out?
Then, make a cylinder from it.
Trying to figure out the best place to mount it.
You've shown me a few places. Where does it sound
the best?
My tweet is ti inverted dome, how to those do?
Heres the Peerless:
Here are both the Peerless, the unknown, and the Focal tweeters
Here is the unknown speaker.
Freddi - Okay you gave me a lot to think about.
I"ll have to figurout how to do a pi cut out?
Then, make a cylinder from it.
Trying to figure out the best place to mount it.
You've shown me a few places. Where does it sound
the best?
My tweet is ti inverted dome, how to those do?
I've not listened to a K-tube driven by a dome but have mocked one up to show how Carl N. has used a little Polk car coax in a klam - as long as it has enough sensitivity then it should work. You could make a paper K-tube ~5.3" or so long tube the diameter of your dome, snip a slot and have it ready for rough evaluation in a couple of minutes. Maybe XRK has some thoughts on making a good-permanent paper tube.
CN has used this little coax in mini-klam - the tube would be cemented to the dome's plate
CN's little klam was based on the Karlson KR5 "Rocket" for shape
CN has used this little coax in mini-klam - the tube would be cemented to the dome's plate
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
CN's little klam was based on the Karlson KR5 "Rocket" for shape
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Freddi,
I have to get a CD one of these days and try out the K tube. Now that I have a good measurement system I really want to see what it can do. One thing I know how to do is cut PVC pipes - I have made many flutes with them. One thing to note when cutting PVC pipe lengthwise: there is pre-compression in the hoop or tangential direction and when you remove a section it will curl in and reduce the gap you just cut. Not a big deal of you can Dremel the rest away.
I have to get a CD one of these days and try out the K tube. Now that I have a good measurement system I really want to see what it can do. One thing I know how to do is cut PVC pipes - I have made many flutes with them. One thing to note when cutting PVC pipe lengthwise: there is pre-compression in the hoop or tangential direction and when you remove a section it will curl in and reduce the gap you just cut. Not a big deal of you can Dremel the rest away.
Karlsonator with B&C10FW64
Freddi,
This looks like a strong candidate for a Karlsonator. It has good deep bass extension but with a bit of a peakiness. The cone motion is very well controlled and it does not go into run away mode below 40 Hz.
Design is scale 1x in height and depth and 0.67x scale in width.
Freq response, impedance, cone displacement.
Freddi,
This looks like a strong candidate for a Karlsonator. It has good deep bass extension but with a bit of a peakiness. The cone motion is very well controlled and it does not go into run away mode below 40 Hz.
Design is scale 1x in height and depth and 0.67x scale in width.
Freq response, impedance, cone displacement.
Attachments
X- regarding the B&C 10FW64 in the 0.67 width Karlsonator why is the simulation showing 5 to 10 dB less sensitivity than Beta 10cx
(my keyboard's question mark key pooped out!) http://www.bcspeakers.com/products/lf-driver/10-0/10fw64
btw - its interesting to compare the neodymium version (Qt0.29) of the same driver
my 12PE32 is very sensitive in a classic K12 - sounds good with a K-tube
(my keyboard's question mark key pooped out!) http://www.bcspeakers.com/products/lf-driver/10-0/10fw64
btw - its interesting to compare the neodymium version (Qt0.29) of the same driver
my 12PE32 is very sensitive in a classic K12 - sounds good with a K-tube
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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thanks - - assuming that's the result then 10FW64 isn't the best parameter pick for a new Karlsonator driver - would it perk up in a little K scaled from K15? Beta10cx looks really solid for a budget driver in the Karlsonator(12) - I can't remember if you modeled the popular Beta 12LTA in the Karlsonator (?)
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its got a pretty frame at least 
- in practice it may work (?) - I'd get one if I had a better "K10" here's a weaker motor coax I have but not tried at all http://bjl.audioconcept.free.fr/Archives/03_Caracteristiques_HP/P.AUDIO SYSTEM/SN SERIES/SN-10C.pdf
- in practice it may work (?) - I'd get one if I had a better "K10" here's a weaker motor coax I have but not tried at all http://bjl.audioconcept.free.fr/Archives/03_Caracteristiques_HP/P.AUDIO SYSTEM/SN SERIES/SN-10C.pdf
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Hi!
I recently glued the inner pieces of my karlsonators and added some damping prior to closing the speaker. What do you think? I never know how much damping material to put inside a cabinet, and this time it'll be hard to tweak it after closing the cabinet.
Thank you!!!
I recently glued the inner pieces of my karlsonators and added some damping prior to closing the speaker. What do you think? I never know how much damping material to put inside a cabinet, and this time it'll be hard to tweak it after closing the cabinet.
Thank you!!!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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X, others:
Do you know if the drawing the Karson 1/4 scale is accurate?
Can I just resise it when printing and use the drawing
when fullsize to cut the cabinet from?
Thanks,
I guess the spread sheet would be helpful too.
Can we make the general build process that X did
a sticky in this forum?
If we know the post numbers it would help a lot of
people from going t hrough trying to find the information
somewhere here. And this is a releatively short forum.
What do y'all think?
Do you know if the drawing the Karson 1/4 scale is accurate?
Can I just resise it when printing and use the drawing
when fullsize to cut the cabinet from?
Thanks,
I guess the spread sheet would be helpful too.
Can we make the general build process that X did
a sticky in this forum?
If we know the post numbers it would help a lot of
people from going t hrough trying to find the information
somewhere here. And this is a releatively short forum.
What do y'all think?
Is this to actual scale?
When printed out to the proper measurements
can I use it as a template to cut my foam from?
Anyone recall the post numbers of contructing the foam board?
My carpel tunnel is way bad recently.
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